ohiise's Profile
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Author's Posts
May 8, 2008
Recommendations
Has anyone here used All Mechanical Plumbing or All Renovation (I just noticed that they both begin with 'All', coincidentally)?
What was your experience regarding the work, price, etc.?
May 1, 2008
Which contractor to pick?
I have come down to two estimates for my garden floor kitchen, dining, laundry and BR gut reno after putting it off for about 4 years. Contractor A is a design build firm that has a good reputation on this site, and Contractor B is a neighborhood contractor that has been used by our neighbors and is currently working on a full gut reno on a house across the street. I have been to see his work a few times.
Contractor A is prompt, professional, reliable and thorough, but seems to charge almost twice as much for everything. e.g., the costs of updating the electric are around 12K for contrator A compared to 7K for contractor B. Cost for moving a standard window opening and installing a window in it (labor only) approx. 2K; cost for wainscoting about 30 ft (labor only) 2.5K. However, contractor B is less formal (gives an oral estimate and allows me to get a direct price from the subs), his plumber needs to be chased for estimates, etc. and I imagine the whole process will come up with some hidden costs and headaches, but hopefully they will be minor. I do not think contractor B is dishonest.
In this day and age of declining real estate prices, should I go with A or B? Those of you who have done renos or are in the process, I would love to hear from you.
February 14, 2008
Throw a log on the fire: two fireplaces renovated
We restored two fireplaces last month, but I finally am getting around to posting the pics.
To give you some orientation: There are two chimneys with three flues each in our three story house. We tackled the front chimney which vents the boiler through one of the flues (which was relined). The parlor FP above it was restored and it's flue was relined to burn wood. The bedroom FP above that was restored to a gel-burning FP. The mantels, surrounds and hearthstones were also reset or replaced where missing.
I had been warned by other brownstoners that it would be messy. And it was! Think of it as surgery on the house. Centuries of soot and a bunch of guys with jackhammers. But, it took only five days, although my partner decamped with the dog to his mother's house, while I huddled in the two rooms that were dust free.
The finished products are more than worth it. The wood burning fireplace drafts just perfectly: not a wisp of smoke even on Sunday when we had those strong winds.
Here is the link to the pics:
http://www.flickr.com/gp/15516153@N02/a63B5C
If you watch it as a slideshow, make sure you click on the 'i' for descriptions and titles (all pics have them).
Thanks to the brownstoners who helped with my questions about FP restorations.
Enjoy!
January 16, 2008
Clogged clawfoot bathtub drain
We have a slow bathroom drain (I squarely blame the sissy bodywashes and scrubs), and now the bathroom sink water has also started to flow into the tub instead of down the drain.
I have emptied a few gallons of liquid plummer, etc. into the bathtub drain and also tried using an auger/ snake, but didn't get very far into the drain (I went in through the tub overflow drain opening).
Any tips?
January 14, 2008
A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency
Why is it that one of the first pieces of advice given to homeowners who are trying to make their homes more energy efficient is to replace their historic wooden windows with double paned ones?
Here are some problems I see with this:
1. New double paned windows are often compared to poorly maintained wooden windows when energy eficiency comparisons are made, not to restored and well maintained ones.
2.Wooden windows could be made more energy efficient and workable if storms were added, and failed putty/ glazing was replaced, broken sash cords replaced with chain, sash weights were reattached, several layers of paint stripped down to reduce sticking, etc., etc. All relatively easy DIY tasks.
3. Wooden windows with a storm are actually supposed to be better insulators than double paned windows. Counterintuitive, but seems to be true.
4. The new windows often do not maintain the lite/ pane patterns of the old ones. And they look different, even if they are reproductions.
4. Old windows (and the same applies for cast-iron radiators, but that is a separate rant) end up in the landfill (how green is that?)
Anyways, I just wanted to vent.
My neighbor recently threw out all her windows and got white vinyl replacements. How is that supposed to be an improvement?
http://www.nps.gov/history/hps/tps/briefs/brief09.htm
December 8, 2007
Manny Lassalle
I know some of you have used him (Donatella, rh/ Yente).
How do the FPs work? A neighbor had his done about 4 years ago by him and said it smoked a little. He may, of course, have gotten better over the years. Also, does he get them done in the time frame he says? Thanks!
Author's Comments
Will it be electric radiant floor heat or will you be connecting to your existing hotwater boiler? In the latter case, I think there might be some plumbing involved with mixing valves and the like (I'm no expert). Also there are some issues with mixing emitters in the same house (if you have radiators or baseboard in the rest of the house and radiant floor in the basement) since they all run at different temps. Having said that, if you can do radiant floor, I've heard it's the most comfortable option of all (cast-iron radiators come a close second).
Posted by: ohiise at December 6, 2007 11:43 AM in response to Radiant Floor vs. Radiators
No, but I did hear her speak the other day at the Anatomy of a Brownstone series. She organizes them. Seemed very competent and creative.
Posted by: ohiise at December 7, 2007 7:05 PM in response to Anyone used Debra Salomon?
You can get a little clear plastic thingy at Bed Bath and I-went-in-to-buy-one-little-thing-and-came-out-$100-lighter.
It is like a cup that has little suction cups on it that attach around the overflow drain. It has a hole in the top, so it does not really block the overflow drain, but just allows you to increase the water level by some inches. But, that is better than freezing your upper body.
Posted by: ohiise at December 7, 2007 7:16 PM in response to Antique Clawfoot Bathtub w/o Overflow
Thanks, Donatella and rh.
rh, how far back did he quote you those prices for restoring your 5 FPs? I am having 2 done and he quoted 9K for both and for putting a cap on the boiler flue. Fireside also came by to look yesterday and said 8.5K.
Manny wanted me to see one of his worksites. So we went in his van to this place in Clinton-Hill/ Bed-Stuy where he had restored four FPs in this huge brownstone. The work looked pretty good (I even looked up the FP and he had this cool slope made for the smoke to smoothly flow up the chimney).
I just don't want the thing to smoke. And it seems really pricey to have them restored.
Posted by: ohiise at December 8, 2007 8:33 PM in response to Manny Lassalle
Oh, btw, he gave me a long list of references and I called up many. Those who got back were very happy with him. So I suppose he's my guy?
Posted by: ohiise at December 8, 2007 8:34 PM in response to Manny Lassalle
Insulating board and sheetrock (with furring strips). There's a kind of paint available that helps insulate. It has these small spheres in it. One of those NASA things. But, I doubt it's a full substitute for insulation.
Posted by: ohiise at December 8, 2007 8:39 PM in response to what do i use to insulate a bare wall?
Great post. We have problems too and a contractor recommended French drains (we have a sump pump already). Does anyone have a French drain and does it help? I ask because it involves tearing up the slab to put these in.
Posted by: ohiise at December 19, 2007 11:11 AM in response to Secret to Dry Basement?
Second the bleach idea. Also, see if there is a leak somewhere producing moisture. Sometimes, water can leak around the edges of the sink and get into the under-sink cabinet.
Posted by: ohiise at December 19, 2007 11:18 AM in response to Mold
Move things like bookcases and furniture toward the outside walls. Those provide a small measure of insulation too (books are not good conductors of heat). Make sure you have thick silk/ velvet/ wool drapes that you can close at night. The idea of a supplemental heat source sounds good too. If the room recieves direct sunlight, try painting the walls a darker color so they retain the heat and not reflect it. If the extension is small how about a small green roof on top of it. Although they would help more in the summer when the extension heats up (I'm sure that happens too), the green roof media also prevent heat escaping, sort of like adding isulation. Gaia soil is one such medium for green roofs that is made of recycled styrofoam peanuts, which has insulating properties. The plants themselves also form an insulating blanket, much like dead leaves heaped up around tree/ shrub roots in the winter to prevent the soil around the roots from repeated freeze-thaw cycles that could uproot them.
How about a little electric fireplace?
And you could blow-in additional insulation, although that might be difficult to do if there is pre-existing insulation in the walls/ ceiling.
The above are all small measures, but they could add up to make you feel comfortable. It's amazing how much just adding drapes to windows can do to prevent body heat being radiated to the cold window glass, which can make you feel cold even when it is a comfortable 69 degrees inside.
Posted by: ohiise at December 19, 2007 11:36 AM in response to Preventing heat loss
Responses to Author's Forum Comments
Some thoughts on Replacement Windows:
________________________________________
Barbara Campagna, Director of Architecture for the National Trust’s 29 historic sites, wrote in Preservation Nation, the news letter for the National Trust For Historic Preservation , a ‘tirade’ (her words) on Vinyl Replacement Windows. I suggest anyone contemplating an historic window replacement read the article.
http://blogs.nationaltrust.org/preservationnation/?p=233#comment-1504
Of particular interest is a comment in the article by Mike Jackson (Chief Architect of the Illinois State Historic Preservation Office); in which he characterizes replacement windows touting no maintenance as “No Maintenance required” really means “can’t be repaired” - so they end up in the landfill much sooner than say a wood window which can be repaired and repaired and repaired, or recycled.
First of all: consider this disclaimer to my point of view. I’m not a disinterested party. As President and CEO of The Woodstone Company, I’ve been manufacturing wooden historic replicate windows for 30 years.
That being said, there is more to window replacement than meets the eye and much of it is over-simplified or ignored altogether by design, building and manufacturing professionals for a variety of reasons. I, for example, want to promote Woodstone services and would like to indulge your opinions on historic window replacement projects; not only to promote my company’s services, but to provide you a forum on which you can expand your perspective.
Several issues have been noted in the commentary listed above, from the efficiency of storm windows to the accuracy of divided lite fenestration to the high cost of custom historic high performance wooden windows when compared to the more generic replacement windows; be they vinyl, fiberglass, aluminum, clad or semi-custom wooden windows.
As an enticement for your indulgence in this forum please consider the following query. If you could replace your existing windows, be they the original landmark historic one’s or more recent replacements installed, perhaps years ago, but in the interim, with accurately replicated high performance wooden windows and cost was not an issue, would you be inclined to do so?
Again, consider Architect Jackson’s perspective…”… a wood window which can be repaired and repaired and repaired, or recycled”.
If you purchase a window designed to last for 20 years with no maintenance and compare it to the cost of a window designed to last for 100 years or more with efficiently planned maintenance, what cost/benefit considerations come to mind?
I’ll try to visit this forum on a weekly basis at least and respond to as many inquiries or points of view as I can. In the meantime, I’ll address one other concern already listed here.
With regard to storm window efficiency; the reason storm windows are not as efficient as windows with sealed insulating glass (IG) is not only because the storm window allows air infiltration, but because there is an optimally efficient air space. When the air space between two pieces of glass reaches a certain dimension and ambient temperatures change, the air sandwiched between the panes of glass begins to circulate more in direct correlation with the increased size of the air space, be it in a sealed IG sash or separate storm sash. When air circulates, its temperature conductivity increases and energy efficiency decreases.
For those of you who’ve reached the end of this missive, I thank you, and I look forward to future discussions on historic window restoration and replication.
Posted by: guest at March 4, 2008 10:13 AM in response to A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency
Be careful on where the sawdust is from. Can the person who is giving away the sawdust affirm the wood was all untreated? Even though certain wood treatment chemicals (arsenic-based)have been banned from the industry, replacement chemicals may also have their own problems. Considering the vast use of plywood, MDF, laminated products, etc., make sure the sawdust supply does not contain dust from these manufactured products.
We use sawdust in our community garden composting effort and the person who supplies us is a master composter who is very aware of the issues with wood products.
Better to err on the side of caution...
Posted by: guest at April 21, 2008 3:58 PM in response to sawdust for composting
The sawdust is from untreated wood. It's from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, for use as compost.
Posted by: poise at April 21, 2008 4:57 PM in response to sawdust for composting
Well then...let's go! I'll post it on our community garden group and see if anyone can pick it up.
Posted by: guest at April 21, 2008 6:38 PM in response to sawdust for composting
Call Andre @ A&A - When he relined my fp he had to demolish most of the column to do it, so I can't see why he couldn't replace the whole thing using temporary supports.
I like your FP (go figure) so if you are getting rid of those stones and hearth let me know and I'll take them off your hands. A&A's # is listed in the homepage ads.
Good luck!
Posted by: cobblehillcat at May 2, 2008 1:15 PM in response to "Replacing" a fireplace?
Perhaps a little more negotiation with A to bring the price down just a bit, explaining that you have recieved other bids from recommended GCs.
Otherwise, if you can pay for A, go with A. If you have time to spend and some aspirin, go with B.
Posted by: guest at May 2, 2008 2:43 PM in response to Which contractor to pick?
why not get an estimate from contractor C? if it's close to what A offered, you have some confirmation that the price is reasonable, and that there's something fishy about B's low quote.
Posted by: z at May 2, 2008 3:28 PM in response to Which contractor to pick?
I chose contractor B... got a good price, but regretted it. Everything was a hassle, took forever, and got messed up. Really though, my contractor was more like contractor C.
Posted by: guest at May 2, 2008 5:11 PM in response to Which contractor to pick?
Maybe you can just cover it over with other material?
Posted by: guest at May 4, 2008 11:19 AM in response to "Replacing" a fireplace?
5onsackett..., when after you have moved in and you feel your job is complete and all items on your punchlist met, please do come back and share your wonderful resourse! Maybe even some pics too!
Congratulations on the baby!
Posted by: guest at May 4, 2008 11:34 AM in response to Which contractor to pick?
We have an antique tub, which has an overflow that connects with the drain. We block it so that the tub fills almost to the rim (these old tubs tend to be a little shallower than we are used to). You can get plumbing fixtures including the overeflow and drain combination for antique tubs. Whether they can be fitted to your tub is another thing.
Posted by: ohiise at December 6, 2007 11:18 AM in response to Antique Clawfoot Bathtub w/o Overflow