Sometimes rental fees are high enough to justify a purchase. Otherwise google tool rental brooklyn and place some phone calls. There's a rental place not far from Clinton Hill.

Posted by: masterbuilder at November 9, 2009 8:27 AM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?

Hi,

I draw in 3D. If you email me, I can send you some samples.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at November 9, 2009 8:20 AM in response to Design Help for Small Bathroom

http://www.pwcusa.org/

Link to professional women in construction. (Men are members also).

Link to Lenore Janis on the news, wrapped with her talking about Emily Roebling - an engineer on the Brooklyn Bridge.

http://www.pwcusa.org/flyers/video_small.mov

Posted by: masterbuilder at November 9, 2009 8:07 AM in response to Contractors & Chauvinism

It depends on the scope. If you do decide to move forward, make sure you select architects/builders with strong project management skills. Ensure you are able to visualize your design and minimize changes. A well-planned project can move forward efficiently. If your architects and engineers are sloppy or you keep changing things, the blueprints will have to be resubmitted to the DOB (happens frequently).

It will still be time consuming and stressful. It is best to go into your project not emphasizing how quickly it can be done, but focusing on how it will enrich your home. Quality takes time.

Not to scare you, but I saw this renovation/divorce article in the NY Times last week:

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/05/garden/05divorce.html

Posted by: masterbuilder at November 9, 2009 7:42 AM in response to 2 Floor Gut Reno - How Long?

Don't use a GC for this. Use a plumber. Sounds like they also sold you a valve you didn't need. $3000 is way off base. A $250 service call is more like it.

Posted by: masterbuilder at November 9, 2009 7:29 AM in response to Leaking Radiator?

P.S. Dave, sweet ride! When are we going cruising?

Posted by: masterbuilder at November 3, 2009 9:07 AM in response to Moving Car from Coast to Coast

Thanks all! Now I just need to figure out where to keep it here...

Posted by: masterbuilder at November 3, 2009 9:02 AM in response to Moving Car from Coast to Coast

Dave,

If you can dig up the info on the carrier that would be great. On Craigslist a large heading reads that all car transport ads are scams, so as I peruse the internet for carriers, I now see the outfits are mostly brokers and a lot of fees can get tacked on. Some of them do look like they could be Paypal scams also.

(I did check out Fedex and it was like $3000. Too much.)

Thanks all!

Posted by: masterbuilder at November 2, 2009 7:48 AM in response to Moving Car from Coast to Coast

I have worked with K&C Plumbing and they recently quoted me only $200 to set a new tub. They work very fast and would likely have all of your fixtures swapped out in a day. If you're having that much plumbing done, I'd steer away from a "handyman" especially when you can get that part done reasonably by a licensed plumber.

Email me if you are interested in getting a bid from them.

Also, I'm not a huge IKEA fan, but they do have some decent sinks, fixtures and vanities that don't cost a lot.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at November 2, 2009 7:44 AM in response to "Simple" Kitchen and Bath Reno

I'd drive it if it had seats in it! It's only partially restored. It does run, but I'm picturing myself broken down in Montana during a snowstorm...

Posted by: masterbuilder at November 1, 2009 3:33 PM in response to Moving Car from Coast to Coast

You could use chemicals, wirebrushes and dental picks or else grind it off, but grinding will leave marks and make a ton of dust.

Stripping is very tedious. The last brick wall I did strip came out gorgeous though.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 26, 2009 8:49 AM in response to Removing Paint from Brick Wall

I found this:

http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/new_york/NY_Residential/PDFs/Chapter%2015.pdf

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 25, 2009 9:03 AM in response to Exhaust Hood Necessary?

Hit the mold on the baseboard with a bleach and water solution. The type of renos Anthony is referring to are necessary when you have full on rot, and there are other indications such as a soft floor or walls when it is that extreme. It is common for it to go to the extreme, and if it hasn't then change some habits so it doesn't. Intermittently clean with bleach, keep the bathroom dry - common sense stuff.

I recaulked and regrouted a shower recently. There was mold under the old caulk, but it was easy to scrape out and bleach. I will also be returning to seal the grout in about a week. This helps keep moisture from penetrating to the interior of the wall.

The rule of thumb with bathrooms is to not leave standing water.

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 25, 2009 8:31 AM in response to Bathroom Recaulk & Mold

I helped someone recently with their old doors. It turned out to be a simple job, maybe your issue is similar.

If you are interested, email me at masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 25, 2009 8:18 AM in response to Pocket Doors

Hi, I could come take a look. If interested email me at masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 20, 2009 2:57 PM in response to Fixing a Slate Floor?

If they are already popping off, sounds like the original install was poor. Did they use thinset or acrylic adhesive?

I just regrouted a tub/shower for a client, and it looks great. I could pop by to take a look at your issues if you'd like.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 20, 2009 2:56 PM in response to Tile/Grout Repair

I managed a gut reno in Park Slope where we upgraded the boiler. The engineer on the project seemed sub par, the architect really did not know mechanical and plumbing, my plumber was adamant that the engineer had specified a boiler that was too small and vice versa. Frankly, my vendors at Brooklyn Plumbing Supply and my plumber seemed to be the most knowledgeable.

As I usually suggest, do your homework, get three bids and go with whoever makes the most sense.

You can take a look at boiler make and models here (some sites have pages for homeowners):

http://www.brooklynplumbingsupply.com/supply2.nxg

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 18, 2009 8:26 AM in response to Boiler/Radiator

I'm not a cellulose expert. I am a strong advocate of insulating, and whatever product you choose is fundamentally green because of the impact on your energy bill. Maybe you could close up the walls and leave an opening at the top to pour in the cellulose?

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 17, 2009 8:51 AM in response to Blower Needed with Cellulose?

Sounds like you want a hydraulic door closer. If your new doors are coming with new, hollow metal jambs, you can conceal the closers up inside the header jamb. The mechanism has settings for open speed, shut speed and latch speed. You also want a gasket to seal the edge for weather, which will also dampen the shutting.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 17, 2009 8:31 AM in response to Soft close/open for large doors

I'm not an IKEA fan, but I do direct clients there for affordable sinks and fixtures.

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 16, 2009 8:21 AM in response to Shower Body

I haven't bought anything from here but I considered their products for one of my clients. They have an NYC showroom.

For contemporary:

http://www.slidingdoorco.com/products/home/index.html

http://www.slidingdoorco.com/locations.html

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 16, 2009 8:15 AM in response to Where to Sliding Pocket Doors?

If the wall is open you don't want to use a blower. Do you have actual studs nailed to the brick exterior wall or just small furring strips? I've used rigid blue foam insulation between furring strips, otherwise you can get a roll of R-11 or R-13 from Home Depot. Do a little research to make suer you install it correctly to maximize its efficiency and also to make sure you don't end up with a moisture issue. Blown in insulation does not have a vapor barrier side to it. R-11, R-13 usually have paper or foil on on side to keep moisture from breathing into the house.

The owens corning link is geared toward homeowners.

http://www.dow.com/PublishedLiterature/dh_003c/0901b8038003c56f.pdf?filepath=styrofoam/pdfs/noreg/716-00150.pdf&fromPage=GetDoc

http://insulation.owenscorning.com/homeowners/easy-weekend-projects/?utm_id=11610000&ITI=true

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 16, 2009 8:08 AM in response to Blower Needed with Cellulose?

I'd use an LVL (laminated veneer lumber). They are engineered to carry loads and are very stiff. You'd want to bolt it to the old joist.

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1392

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 14, 2009 7:51 AM in response to What kind of wood do we use

It is best to isolate your issues with this particular firm. A true design/builder both designs and builds. If everything is being subcontracted it sounds like this firm doesn't have a hands on background, which probably means their design and coordination will suffer. Competitive bidding also doesn't ensure the price will go down. I prefer to work with the same MEPs because they always answer the phone and get the work done fast.

It is not uncommon even in large scale government jobs for an underperforming contractor to get replaced. If you have not signed you may be best off looking elsewhere.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 14, 2009 7:43 AM in response to Changing Design/Build Midstream?

I know of someone who has some spare antiques. If interested contact me at masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at October 11, 2009 8:29 AM in response to Need 2 Cast Iron STEAM radiators

Hello,

There are many routes to design through build. Take your time and explore many options on your own first (magazines, showrooms, samples of finished materials). Most architects do not have a hands on background, and many have issues coordinating details - those details are left to the builder ("field verification" - meaning the builder must verify details in the actual building environment, "shop drawings" - meaning the fully detailed drawings that actually show how everything fits). People who only design may sell you something that simply won't work. I am a big fan of design/builders - people who can design and build, but it all comes down to whether someone excels at building and communicating.

Be patient, get references and make sure you understand the details.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at September 26, 2009 9:18 AM in response to 1st Time Renovation Advice?

Or try Intense Movers. Flat rate. I'm hiring them for the second time.

intense.movers@gmail.com

or

Matt @ 718.915.1552

Posted by: masterbuilder at September 24, 2009 8:03 AM in response to In House Movers

Modern Way Lumber on 4th at St. Marks (open M-F only).

Posted by: masterbuilder at September 20, 2009 10:54 AM in response to Tin Ceilings

What do you need done? If it is a major job, I like K&C Plumbing because they are very prompt and fast. If it is something simple however, you don't want to incur the expense. Please post again.

Posted by: masterbuilder at September 18, 2009 8:05 AM in response to Plumber needed

If the sink fits you are still choosing one of the more difficult types of sinks to install (because the pipes are not easy to access inside the pedestal). After you close contact me if you'd like me to take a look.

Sincerely,

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at September 18, 2009 7:59 AM in response to Sink Replacement - How?

I agree with these posts. Take care of the obvious cosmetic issues (ugly grout, caulking, paint, etc.) and leave the expensive reno to the next owner.

Posted by: masterbuilder at September 13, 2009 11:24 AM in response to Reno: High-End or Basic?

Hi,

These comments all assume the contractor is shady, and unfortunately many are. Do your research and find someone you can trust. Find someone who can demonstrate project management and who has great references. We do exist.

Here's a link to some of my work:

http://web.mac.com/salemfilm/iWeb/Site%2011/portfolio.html

Posted by: masterbuilder at September 12, 2009 12:29 PM in response to Contractor Deposit

Look into rigid blue foam board. It is easy to cut, comes in different thicknesses and you could pressure fit the boards as a wall.

I'm not to sure how paintable it is, but I would bet you could roll some latex over it.

Posted by: masterbuilder at August 29, 2009 9:41 AM in response to Ideas for closing off an alcove

The adhesive or thinset (cementious - preferrable) must be notched and spread very evenly. There are a variety of notch sized trowels. To ensure the adhesive or thinset doesn't squeeze through the grout joints, it takes an experienced hand and eye to get the right depth troweled. Anything that does squeeze through can be scraped out before the product fully sets. Obviously if it is not done evenly, it can turn into a tedious mess.

To keep tile from sliding, use grout joint spacers. They come in different sizes, are plastic, and you pull them out when the tile has set well enough not to slide.

If you do not notch the tiles will eventually pop free. The notch is necessary for bondability. If you want to DIY, buy a sheet of cementious backerboard and try some experiments.

Good luck.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at August 29, 2009 9:33 AM in response to How to install this mosaic tile?

I always get three quotes. I got a $45,000, a $30,000 and a $10,000 bid for a 5000 SF job on Broadway, which included a lot of architectural details. I was most interested in the $30,000 bid, and I went with the contractor to three locations where he had worked as taper and painter. He also introduced me to his happy clients.

The job was a little tense because he underestimated the time on the details, and as his project manager I held money back until he got the place looking perfect. Skim coating is not anything anyone can do. It requires a high level of patience and finesse. Take your time and find the right contractor.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at August 29, 2009 9:17 AM in response to Skim Coating

I'm inferring these tiles will bond to the subfloor either with an adhesive - or they come with a sticky adhesive on the backside? Regardless, you want to know that the subfloor is very even and completely clean (don't use any solvents to clean it - follow the directions). I use Ardex feather finish to prep my subfloors. It is very smooth and dries hard in about ten minutes.

Hard to tell if your floor is in great condition without a photo.

I'm helping someone with a small kitchen right now and would like to know how your cork install goes. I haven't used it and don't know if I should recommend it to him. I saw one website saying it is not good for wet locations and another saying it is great for kitchens. Obviously if cork can plug a wine bottle, it can hold up to moisture. I can't quite picture its mop-ability though.

Also, where did you buy this stuff?

Thanks,

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at August 29, 2009 9:05 AM in response to Kitchen Reno - Subfloor Question

You do not need to run low voltage cable through conduit in New York. I've managed the install of miles of low voltage cable - in brownstones and airports such as JFK and La Guardia, and even Grand Central Terminal. I had to pull permits for the airports, but not with the DOB - with the port authority.

Posted by: masterbuilder at August 21, 2009 10:08 AM in response to Data Cables Conduit - DOB?

If you can't feel it, it sounds like maybe only the polyurethane is scratched? Hard to tell but for any scratch that really does not seem to have dug into the wood grain, I usually use either a variety of wood wax products or get artistic with stain, a small brush and some new poly.

P.S. for the future invest in those little furniture pads they sell at every hardware store.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at August 18, 2009 1:54 PM in response to Refs for Small Floor Job

Since you are turning the diverter valve, I'm picturing a valve no different from one I recently installed. (I take it this isn't a fancy European valve assembly?)

I examined the brass threading on the new valve at the hardware store (price, $8.50) - which was scratched - and asked for another new one - which I also examined. Apparently at the factory they can get banged around. Small imperfections in the brass - any gap whatsoever - will cause a leak - which is what you are experiencing. Also, the small rubber gasket at the back could have torn on some sharp filament inside the assembly. Possibly the plumber simply didn't tighten a secondary brass washer enough on the outside of the diverter valve.

Did they also use any pipe dope or teflon to help seal the valve?

You should definitely call the plumber back.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at August 16, 2009 4:27 PM in response to Shower Diverter drivimg me crazy

I might be able to help you. I've been helping a number of Brownstoners. High quality, recession special costs.

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Here are images of my work:

http://web.mac.com/salemfilm/iWeb/Site%2011/portfolio.html

Posted by: masterbuilder at August 16, 2009 4:09 PM in response to Handyman to Install Gas Range

Asbestos is considered dangerous when it is "friable" meaning in particulate form in the air because it can crumble by finger pressure. Depending on your condition you may need either a full abatement or partial tile removal and new subfloor prep. I use a cementious product made specifically to be troweled over adhesive in preparation for a new subfloor. Ardex feather finish.

Posted by: masterbuilder at August 6, 2009 12:32 PM in response to Chrysotile Recommendation

You can mix sand with cement. Your old mortar might be more beige or more grey, but if it is getting covered up it doesn't matter. You can buy what you need at Modern Way Lumber on 4th and St. Marks (open M-F only). The sand acts as an aggregate - giving the cement something to bind to. It is an inexact science to mix the two, basically 3 parts sand to 1 part cement. It will seize up (dry) quickly so make small batches. I use a large roasting tin pan for mixing. Wear rubber gloves so you don't get burned by the cement.

You might be able to get premixed at Home Depot or Lowe's.

Posted by: masterbuilder at August 6, 2009 12:27 PM in response to Brick Wall Restoration

Hi,

I've been painting in addition to my other services for some of my clients. One coat of primer and two topcoats is a good way to go for even coverage. I painted four large rooms with tall ceilings in less than 16 hours recently. I would likely charge around $400 ($25 an hour) for latex based application. On that job I was actually painting over the poor job done by the people previous.

I have great refs., and you can take a look at some of my work (all high end) here:

(cut and paste the whole address into your browser since the forum here breaks up the url)

http://web.mac.com/salemfilm/iWeb/Site 11/portfolio.html

Thanks,

Salem masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at July 23, 2009 4:02 PM in response to Painter's Price

Hi,

I'm not a certified IKEA installer, but I did just finish a partial bath reno with IKEA cabinets, sink and faucet, and I've installed IKEA more than once. There is a little bit of conversion work from European to American plumbing.

I'm quick, highly qualified and very reasonable - with excellent refs.

Please take a look at some of my work here:

http://web.mac.com/salemfilm/iWeb/Site 11/portfolio.html

You'll need to copy and paste the link in your browser since the forum breaks the address apart.

Thanks,

masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at July 21, 2009 3:34 PM in response to Ikea Kitchen installation

It depends on the actual full scope and the contractor. Very few offer project management - meaning some sort of realistic daily schedule. Bath renos usually have surprises (water damage) and because of the number of trades involved usually can't be pulled off quickly.

Look for a good communicator with a track record and mentally prepare yourself for the inconveniences.

Posted by: masterbuilder at July 16, 2009 11:08 AM in response to Bathroom renovation

Hi, I've been working with an electrician and solar expert. He's currently working on the Eco Dock on Governor's Island. He could help you.

There are solar powered attic fans on the market. The fan will be your out take and somewhere you will need to cut a hole for return air. There is a little bit of carpentry and roofing involved.

Here's a link to some fans (I don't know these products - just the first link that came up on a web search). http://www.ecodirect.com/Flat-Tile-Roof-s/80.htm

If you are interested in talking to me about your project, please get a hold of me at masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at July 16, 2009 10:40 AM in response to airshaft exhaust fan

Hello,

I built a 40'x12' wall last week in a day. I know you have options of people to contact for your project, and I hope you'll consider me.

I'm a master builder (23 years) working at handyman prices due to the recession.

If you cut and paste this url in your browser you can see samples of my work. (It doesn't work directly from the forum).

http://web.mac.com/salemfilm/iWeb/Site 11/portfolio.html

I can be reached at masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at July 13, 2009 9:09 AM in response to Quickie Drywall job

Hi, I've been taking on a lot of small projects. Given the recession, no job is too small. For larger projects I work with Above or Environmental Design - both have done very high end work in Brooklyn and Manhattan. Last year I represented a business and sourced about 50 contractors around the U.S. for work in airports. I never had a bad experience with one of them. There are basic tell tale signs that let me know I've found the right people. I have also represented the government, sourcing contractors for projects on a college campus. By law they had to take the lowest bid, and it always got them into trouble. On the contractor end I have worked with some of the most prestigious builders and clients in the world. Clear communication is the foundation of a good contracting experience. It is a rare contractor who can offer that.

Posted by: masterbuilder at July 3, 2009 9:32 AM in response to Contractor Help

Hi,

I could help. I have many happy clients and only charge $25 an hour. You can email me at masterbuildernyc@gmail.com

Posted by: masterbuilder at July 3, 2009 9:14 AM in response to Window Treatment

Hello,

My server from .mac is down. I am receiving emails but my sendings are stuck in my outbox. Please call me at 206-619-4141.

Thank you for your patience!

Posted by: masterbuilder at June 30, 2009 9:42 PM in response to entryway subfloor

You can buy a HEPA vac from Bed Bath and Beyond for $120. You can also buy a shop vac anywhere (Home Depot for example) and use a HEPA filter.

Posted by: mopar at November 9, 2009 2:45 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?

I have a Shop Vac. Although you can purchase a HEPA filter for a Shop Vac, the filters are NOT certified for lead abatement or hazardous materials.
Real certified HEPA vacs have special seals and construction and do not pass particles of a certain size/amount through the vac system.
'HEPA' has become a marketing term with little real meaning: just because a filter can theoretically filter down to a certain micron size, doesn't mean the vac system can.

I suspect lots of lead dust and want the real deal to vacuum it up and not worry about blasting back out through the exhaust and distributing it throughout the apartment.

Posted by: Oxygen at November 9, 2009 4:52 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?

Hope you do not ride the subway. Do a lead test on the air quality after an express train passes the station without stopping. Probably more lead than in your apt. Ass pest toast too!

Posted by: pig three at November 9, 2009 5:29 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?

We worked with our architect while we went through the purchase so that we could start soon after closing. We closed at the end of August but the filing process took 5 weeks longer than expected. That was mainly because we added a small extension on the garden floor. So we started mid October and were done June 1. It probably could have been done May 1 if we were more on top of it. So I would say the other posters here are right - about 10 months. That said, we had a good experience with our contractor, Clinton Hill Design Build. I have heard some pretty hard war stories from other neighbors. Good luck.

Posted by: Colonel at November 9, 2009 8:22 PM in response to 2 Floor Gut Reno - How Long?

I'm doing the same thing now like what "Colonel" stated. I didnt close as yet but my architect file the job already. I'm now waitng to close and also waiting on dob to respond on if they approve the plans. Thats the best way to go if you are pretty sure that you will not change your mind on the purchase for what ever reasons. All the best.

Posted by: flawlessphoto06 at November 9, 2009 9:12 PM in response to 2 Floor Gut Reno - How Long?

I doubt there's more lead in the subway than the sanding that was done in my apartment.
Furthermore, I do not live in the 'A' train tunnel, whatever brief exposure from a subway tunnel can't compare to sleeping in a bedroom with lead dust covering everything...eating in a kitchen with lead dust....using a bathroom with lead dust...for year, decades, to come. This is long term exposure.

Posted by: Oxygen at November 9, 2009 11:59 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?

Flawless, who is your expedior....I need one in a hurry. Thanks.

Posted by: thom at November 10, 2009 10:06 AM in response to 2 Floor Gut Reno - How Long?

I did exactly this. Just finished renovating a 4 floor, one duplex for me and two rentals. Took about 13 months, and there's still little things here and there to finish. Mind you I had to switch contractors because the first one was a con man who was ripping me off. All ended well, I am now the broke but proud owner of a bed stuy brownstone and it is gorgeous. If you are seriously concidering this please talk to as many people who have done this before as possible. If you need advice you can email me: elninio@hotmail.com.

Posted by: laninia at November 10, 2009 11:41 AM in response to 2 Floor Gut Reno - How Long?

I've used my shop vac for this kind of thing with HEPA filter, and vacuum bag. Plus I wear a lead paint/asbestos level respirator, cover my hair, wash all clothes worn immediately after, etc, and shower right away. Depending on the way your apt is configured, it might be possible to get an extension for the hose on your vac and have the vac itself outside so that the exhaust isn't blowing the paint dust around inside.

Another option, depending on how much dust there is, is to get the dust wet/damp and clean it up with wet rags/towels/paper towels, which would then be thrown away. That might be simpler and stir up less dust. The respirator & protective clothing & washing would have to be done still.

Posted by: BHS at November 10, 2009 1:45 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?

You are better off buying a HEPA vaccuum. they run anywhere from $600 and up. Wouldn't be a bad idea finding a good used one from a lead abatement contractor who got out of the business.

Lead dust is super dangerous, more dangerous than the chips of paint. Most contractors do not use proper methods for demo, cleanup, sanding etc. I would advise people on this forum who use contractors ( especially the cheap, fast good ones-- do they exist ? ) if they know how to work with lead paint. I guarantee you most do not, yet they are working all over Brooklyn and putting people in harms way with their methods.

Posted by: Springs at November 10, 2009 1:52 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?