keep's Profile
- Keep
- 2000
- Brooklyn
- Clinton Hill
- House
- Attorney
- Female
- 38
Author's Posts
January 7, 2008
Wall removal
I am thinking about two projects that require wall removals: (a)opening up the garden level by removing the walls to the left of the entry leading to the living room (at the from of the house) and (b) combining the two closets on the master bedroom floor and the dressing area into a huge walk in closet. Questions:
1. Do I need an architect/engineer or permit?
2. Given the structural issues, I would like to hire someone other than a handyman. Does anyone know a reputable contractor who would handle such a small job?
3. Any other helpful thoughts, considerations are welcome.
Thanks
November 7, 2007
Original built-in cabinetry
I have the original built-in cabinetry and drawers in the dressing area between the master and mistress bedrooms. The drawers are relatively unusable because they are difficult to open and close. There is no open/close mechanism. The drawers are inserted into a cutout in the cabinetry. Can you recommend a carpenter who can upgrade the drawers so that they are usable?
October 22, 2007
Skylights
On both the Prospect Hts and Bed-Stuy house tours, one of the striking characteristics of many of the renovations was the addition of skylights and the amount of light it added to the house. I would like to replace my wire mesh & glass skylights with something that lets the sun shine in. Any suggestions on which brands are better for flat roofs? Is leakage a real problem or urban myth? Do I have to replace my roof in order to have a proper (non-leaking) installation? How much does a little sunlight cost these days?
Thanks,
Keep
Author's Comments
What is the contact (phone or website) information for The Organic Gardner? I would love for him to design my backyard. It is clearly in the BEFORE stage.
Posted by: keep at December 13, 2007 3:55 PM in response to Inside Third & Bond: Week 17
I'm convinced! I want to keep my original old drafty windows. Who do you recommend to repair them?
Posted by: keep at January 17, 2008 2:09 PM in response to A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency
Responses to Author's Forum Comments
www.castleclosets.com (by far the most affordable closet systems in the tri-state area) and they use all the same materials as the big guys!! check them out!
Posted by: charlie at January 7, 2008 9:24 AM in response to Closet Fix Up
Marvin
Posted by: guest at January 17, 2008 2:48 PM in response to A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency
Yeah, so focus on insulating your roof first before you start throwing out your old windows.
The spring mechanism in new style windows is prone to fail after about 20 years (that's why you see so many newer windows where the upper sash has to be propped up or it slides down, since the spring is worn out by always being streched unless the window is fully open in the summer). And in that case it's often quite expensive to replace. The weight, pulley and cord or chain mechanism of old windows is much more easily repaired. And double pane sealed glass units are easier to fix than single pane?
As for the boiler argument: I said, 'An argument could be made..' to illustrate that there are many other sources of energy loss in the house that one should be more concerned about, and that sometimes a short-sighted move to 'save energy' could worsen the problem of energy loss. Yes, boilers can be sized to the current heat loss of the house and not automatically the same size as the old boiler. But, I see more people focussing on new windows and fewer on appropriate boiler sizing, which is why I mentioned it. Now what's ridiculous and nihilistic about this argument?
Anyways, I was trying to be nice, but sometimes it can be so difficult. Vampire? Really? That's what I am if I keep the curtains drawn on hot summer days?
Posted by: ohiise at January 17, 2008 3:45 PM in response to A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency
Keep: A lot of it is DIY, or you could hire a good handyman. I suppose if there were enough demand for it, there would be more people who would fix them, just like there are so many new window installers now.
Posted by: ohiise at January 17, 2008 3:58 PM in response to A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency
Ohiise, I'm still with ya! For those who didn't look at the link I posted somewhere up there...days ago...If your old windows are in bad disrepair and need full restoration, you're looking at $1000 per window ala Park Slope Glass. So, it's a DIY job. Time consuming, but not rocket science. We went with Allied Storm, the "invisible" storm and they look fine. Our windows have wavy glass, great wood patina and original hardware. That's one house.
On our brownstone, the windows were probably replaced in the 80's. They are drafty vinyl shite. We haven't replaced them yet due to cost, but we had to do some major insulation work as the previous owners took out the weights,etc and left gaping holes. They didn't even caulk the exterior.
Posted by: rh at January 17, 2008 4:16 PM in response to A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency
One thing not often considered about double glass insulated windows is that they have a very limited lifetime. The seals between the layers of glass last five to ten years or maybe a little more, and then become permanently clouded with condensation. Most people don't figure in the cost of frequent replacement.
An old weight balanced sash window should last about 100 years before the chain needs replacement. Our company has repaired many windows that are over 250 years old, that will outlast any double insulated glass window existing today.
The longevity of the old wood windows is due in part to superior rot resistance of old growth pine (compared to any other wood used commercially in windows today). The world was a much colder place 100 years ago, and the pine trees took 30 - 40 years to grow an inch in diameter. Today, even in northern Canada, pine grows an inch in six to ten years, and possesses little resistance to rotting, even with preservative treatment. Homeowners who buy the expensive Marvin or Pella windows will discover these lessons too soon. Better woods to use in windows, if you are replicating old windows, are Spanish cedar or quarter sawn white oak.
The other aspect of old wood windows superiority to double insulated windows is that the weight balance system has a lifetime counted in centuries, with changes of sash chain or cord when needed. The sash springs in double insulated windows lose their tension in anywhere from a year or two, to maybe five years, and are then extremely difficult to operate. A weight balanced window is as easy to open (if not painted shut) in 100 years as the day it was put in.
If you would like to look into restoring your old windows or having them replicated, contact:
Olek Lejbzon & Co., see www.oleklejbzon.com
lejbzon@verizon.net
Peter Triestman
973-615-1257
Posted by: guest at January 19, 2008 10:22 PM in response to A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency
Please note that Federal law does not require you to comply with the provisions of maintaining a historically accurate house unless you are receiving federal money.
Compliance is honorary.
Most state laws duplicate the federal law stating that unless state money is being used on the project, you are allowed to do as you wish.
The problem occurs at the local level when people don't understand this concept. If the local government is not providing any sort of economic compensation for you to surrender your rights on how you should repair your house, you do not have to comply with these provisions. However, be warned--you will have to fight a large amount of ignorant and very arrogant people.
As for historical windows being better, here is a very simple test. Take a propane torch and raise the temperature of a new double pane argon gas filled window to about 150 degrees. Then take a CO2 cartridge (most computer air dusters) and freeze the opposite window pane till it frosts. You will notice that the frost DOES NOT MELT from the heated glass less than a half inch away. The frost will dissipate from room temperature. Then I dare you to try this experiment with a historical window.
It is very important to keep the balance of being a historical preservationist and environmentalist in check. Right now, there is a very severe energy problem in the United States. From what I have seen in Indiana, it is more important to waste natural resources to preserve dilapidated interesting, but not historical homes. You can't be a bunny hugger is you kill all the bunnies as a result of excess greenhouse gas emissions to heat the house.
I agree with the other authors insulating your house is something you should be doing regardless of the type of window you have. If you are trying to be historically accurate, you would be using sawdust, shredded newspapers, socks, etc, as opposed to fiberglass as insulation.
Posted by: guest at January 25, 2008 2:03 AM in response to A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency
Some thoughts on Replacement Windows:
________________________________________
Barbara Campagna, Director of Architecture for the National Trust’s 29 historic sites, wrote in Preservation Nation, the news letter for the National Trust For Historic Preservation , a ‘tirade’ (her words) on Vinyl Replacement Windows. I suggest anyone contemplating an historic window replacement read the article.
http://blogs.nationaltrust.org/preservationnation/?p=233#comment-1504
Of particular interest is a comment in the article by Mike Jackson (Chief Architect of the Illinois State Historic Preservation Office); in which he characterizes replacement windows touting no maintenance as “No Maintenance required” really means “can’t be repaired” - so they end up in the landfill much sooner than say a wood window which can be repaired and repaired and repaired, or recycled.
First of all: consider this disclaimer to my point of view. I’m not a disinterested party. As President and CEO of The Woodstone Company, I’ve been manufacturing wooden historic replicate windows for 30 years.
That being said, there is more to window replacement than meets the eye and much of it is over-simplified or ignored altogether by design, building and manufacturing professionals for a variety of reasons. I, for example, want to promote Woodstone services and would like to indulge your opinions on historic window replacement projects; not only to promote my company’s services, but to provide you a forum on which you can expand your perspective.
Several issues have been noted in the commentary listed above, from the efficiency of storm windows to the accuracy of divided lite fenestration to the high cost of custom historic high performance wooden windows when compared to the more generic replacement windows; be they vinyl, fiberglass, aluminum, clad or semi-custom wooden windows.
As an enticement for your indulgence in this forum please consider the following query. If you could replace your existing windows, be they the original landmark historic one’s or more recent replacements installed, perhaps years ago, but in the interim, with accurately replicated high performance wooden windows and cost was not an issue, would you be inclined to do so?
Again, consider Architect Jackson’s perspective…”… a wood window which can be repaired and repaired and repaired, or recycled”.
If you purchase a window designed to last for 20 years with no maintenance and compare it to the cost of a window designed to last for 100 years or more with efficiently planned maintenance, what cost/benefit considerations come to mind?
I’ll try to visit this forum on a weekly basis at least and respond to as many inquiries or points of view as I can. In the meantime, I’ll address one other concern already listed here.
With regard to storm window efficiency; the reason storm windows are not as efficient as windows with sealed insulating glass (IG) is not only because the storm window allows air infiltration, but because there is an optimally efficient air space. When the air space between two pieces of glass reaches a certain dimension and ambient temperatures change, the air sandwiched between the panes of glass begins to circulate more in direct correlation with the increased size of the air space, be it in a sealed IG sash or separate storm sash. When air circulates, its temperature conductivity increases and energy efficiency decreases.
For those of you who’ve reached the end of this missive, I thank you, and I look forward to future discussions on historic window restoration and replication.
Posted by: guest at March 4, 2008 10:13 AM in response to A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency
THE WINDOWS ARE ONLY 1/2 THE PROBLEM WITH "ENERGY EFFICIENCY"
PLEASE READ
OK so you want new "energy efficient" thermo pane windows but consider the entire building envelope FIRST or at the very least at the same time as you are replacing windows.
I have done a lot of restoration (yes I am a contractor- and this is my first time on this site, really) and there are a few good windows on the market - my current favorite brand is Jeld Wen Custom Line - this is formerly Pozzi and their aluminum clad wood with brickmold trim in " Emerald Black" is an awesome product - the hell with Marvins these things perform and look great - it will also pass Landmarks scrutiny.
Now that you have chosen the windows think about this - what if they dont give you the results that you want? Thats right. You have them put in and your house is still a leaky sieve and you still feel wind inside.... because its the building envelope stupid.
Yes your source of air leakage is all the other poorly insulated walls and holes in the entire house - think about that nice wood entry door with little or no weather stripping, think about your cellar and all the holes and penetrations in the walls and ceilings. Thats right most of you have your cellar coupled to your living space so uncouple it by air sealing the basement floor level and doors - you are breathing the air from the cellar on the TOP FLOOR if its not air sealed. I have tested this dozens of times in multiple houses, add up all those tiny or not so tiny holes in your cellar ceiling its like having a door open to the outside to have mold dust and funk rise up the entire house.
Insulation is also key, but what type maybe you can ask that "handyman" that you have trusted to work on your multi-million dollar investment, or maybe the guy at Home Depot knows, what do you think?
Or even better ask your Architect what your Heat Load Loss is for the house or what size your boiler should be or at a 50 pascal pressure difference between inside and out how mush air exchanges per hour should your house have and how does that \translate into fuel consumption???
OK, I'm not trying to be too difficult its just that they dont know and there is a lot of talk in this post about being green and recycling but if you dont stop consuming fuel it does not matter how much recycled crap you put in your house you are still f'kin up the environment and killing your kids.
I just finished replacing the entire windows in a Harlem brownstone with the Pozzi's - these windows were installed on blocking and COMPLETELY spray foamed in place - but the house still leaks air - how do I know? Because I measured it. Blower door test done BEFORE and AFTER the windows were put in netted only a 8 CFM savings in air transfer -the cornice, cellar and front door and even the neighbors house were all sources of the MAJOR air leaks - After air sealing and weather stripping them we will probably save 4 to 10 times in air transfer that the windows did. The air test this week should prove that.
Dont get me wrong, new windows are great but before you spend 35k or so replacing all the windows in your house, start by spending just a few thousand and AIR SEAL the pig first.
Dont buy the hype about efficiency ratings, thermo pane glazing filled with the gas from polar bear farts or anything else -start with testing the house - This is math and numbers so the results do not lie.
Ask me how I know this......because I just do.
Good luck
P.favano@yahoo.com
Posted by: guest at June 1, 2008 12:22 AM in response to A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency
The assessment of air infiltration could not be more on the mark.
In fact, it’s interesting to note that the NSRE Energy Star rating for windows and doors does not currently include air infiltration standards. Go figure.
For the record, I’ve been in the historic window replication business for more than 30 years and, yes, this is a plug for what my company, Woodstone, does. I commented last on March 4th, 2008, lamenting the ‘maintenance free’ aspect of windows and doors. Again, ‘maintenance free’ is another way of saying ‘can’t be maintained’.
As other bloggers opined a while back, how does one measure the efficiency of windows with weight and pulley counter balances that last for centuries compared to the short term function of vinyl spring balances?
Are old fashion weight and pulley windows with weight pockets really as energy inefficient as everyone says they are?
Well, consider this: Woodstone fabricates accurate historic window replicates with weight and pulley counter balances. Our weight boxes are sealed. Our air infiltration specs exceed the AAMA standard by 300 percent. We only use brass, bronze and stainless steel hardware and fasteners. We fabricate true divided lite insulating glass with narrow muntin profiles and restoration glass is available. We warrant our IG for 20 years and make our windows maintenance friendly. If a piece of glass breaks or an IG seal fails, the glass is easily and inexpensively replaced; unlike a Simulated Divided Lite (SDL) sash that must be replaced in its entirety when something fails or breaks. We fabricate our windows with wood species that provide the highest resistance to decay (e.g. white oak, cherry, genuine mahogany) and our paint vendor warrants the our factory finish for 20 years. Our wood joinery is authentic coped, pegged, mortise and tenon warranted against defects in materials and workmanship for 20 years.
Why do we do this? Because we’re replacing windows that have typically provided a useful life of 100 years or more and we expect our windows to last at least that long too.
How much do our windows cost? Well, they’re not cheap. They cost at least twice that of the other so-called custom window manufacturers. But if Woodstone windows will provide service for 100 years, how many times can a homeowner, or the homeowner’s heirs and assigns, afford to replace windows AND maintain historic specifications before the replacement costs exceed the initial cost of the Woodstone window? You do the math.
When you want to sell your house 20 years after installing the usual fare, would you rather explain away the upcoming and inevitable window replacement project or show off ‘good-as-new’ energy efficient historic replicate windows?
And just how ‘green’ is it to throw those so-called ‘maintenance free’ windows in a land-fill after they’ve broken or reached the end of their comparatively short life cycle?
Woodstone windows are, admittedly, not appropriate for most projects these days. But if you own a building on the historic register or if you want to build a new one that might qualify one day, if you want windows that replicate historic fenestration details and can be easily maintained, … if you want to live in a house without listening to the ticking window replacement clock, then Woodstone is for you.
Posted by: guest at June 24, 2008 6:06 PM in response to A rant about replacing historic wooden windows in the name of energy efficiency

I have both california closets and easyclosets in my house. I used california for the master and child closets -- the efficiency ideas of the designer were extremely helpful. I subsequently used easyclosets for coats and utility. They were pretty basic and I hyad an idea of the layout that would work for my family. An important aesthetic decision is whether you like board or wire shelves. I think Elfa has wire shelves only.
Posted by: keep at November 27, 2007 10:20 AM in response to Closet Fix Up