We buried our wires during our renovation, going straight into the cellar & then up from there. Still have neighbor's ugly wires each side...

Anyone with a utility pole in their back yard? Do you have any record of it on your title deed? If no record (easement?), is there any ability to arm twist the utility to clean up their mess etc

Posted by: going4broke at November 17, 2009 1:00 PM in response to Removing Unsightly Wires?

I can't give you real #s but perhaps some useful perspective. We removed our old pine subfloor and installed new subfloor with new mesquite hardwood on top. Friends who were renovating their kitchen took the relatively undamaged (old pine subfloor) planks from 1-2 floors of our place which they installed over new subfloor at their place.

To do this, we had to take more care not to shatter the old pine planks (attached with big old nails to the joists). Despite taking care, I guess we didn't yield more than 50% of the original area (esp after taking into account the trimming of sides/ends our friends did to reinstall neatly.

You might find contractors who are better at it than we were but I would expect you will still have very significant loss (subject to how brittle your wood is & how firmly attached planks are to the joists) which you would need to make up for with new / other source of reclaimed wood. I assume given labor cost to remove the wood in this way (followed by more work to trim/finish than normal), you won't save money vs other reclaimed wood sources (which are already more expensive than conventional alternatives). On top of that you will have the standard costs of subfloor & topfloor wood installation.

In the end, if done properly it would look great but it is far from the easy or inexpensive route.

Posted by: going4broke at November 9, 2009 3:24 PM in response to New Subfloor Under Wide Plank

Can you partition the large bedroom (does it have 2 windows)?

Re radon, can get free radon test kits from a NYC or NYS govt office. Not likely to be a problem in Brooklyn but worth testing as downside is big (cancer). Air exchanger would help lower risk (given you are frequently replacing the air in the space).

Posted by: going4broke at November 3, 2009 9:43 AM in response to Air Quality Assessment

Am with IMBY - I would be very concerned about egress in event of fire etc. That aside, if you go ahead, you should definitely consider installing an air exchanger:

http://www.airexchangers.info/air_exchanger_basics.html

There are a number of different brands. While they generally run off a standard outlet, installation does involve some ducting (more fiddly than technically difficult). When done, you have an energy efficient low tech means of ensuring fresh air in the bottom of the house.

Posted by: going4broke at November 3, 2009 8:23 AM in response to Air Quality Assessment

We have both Thermostatic control valves & Pressure balance mixing valves (from Cifial). Both prevent dangerous temperature spikes (and at any given setting provide a reliable stream of virtually constant temp water) although I believe neither technology actually targets an absolute temperature (number F).

Posted by: going4broke at October 21, 2009 12:27 PM in response to Constant Temp. Faucet

The insert in the photo looks very much like 2 we have in our place from the parlor floor. Upstairs we have the more decorative grills but on the parlor fire places we have these plain inserts (curiously set in the much more elaborate mantles) which have mirror where you describe the tin (you may find this if you strip the paint). You might want to consider keeping these original inserts after you clean them up.

Posted by: going4broke at October 9, 2009 12:41 PM in response to Mantle Insert - Where to Find?

Pedro Polanco similarly has done a lot for us inside & outside (& for old neighbors of ours in Manhattan). Absolutely trustworthy and works to a very high standard. Pricing reasonable. ph 646 296 1460

Posted by: going4broke at August 19, 2009 6:38 PM in response to Someone to Refinish Doors?

FLH - sounds great - will try this.
Thanks!

Posted by: going4broke at July 23, 2009 6:57 AM in response to Attaching Window Box?

I got a number of them from E Stone in Greenpoint area (http://estoneusa.com/). They were very reasonable, as well as being reliable / efficient. I did get one hearth piece from Foro early in our renovation and while in the end we got what we needed it took weeks / wasn't a good experience.

Posted by: going4broke at July 11, 2009 12:50 AM in response to Entryway marble saddle

PS glancing again at the original post, I think my memory is going & another pane was cracked beyond repair or I was mistaken in the original post re # of panes missing when we got the house. At any rate Tomas made us 3 panes...

Posted by: going4broke at June 24, 2009 1:59 PM in response to Wheel cut glass

Thanks Steve

Posted by: going4broke at May 16, 2009 5:22 PM in response to wooden deck?

What legal deck materials are there besides metal? Is it true that there are acceptable wood varieties? Ipe?

Posted by: going4broke at May 16, 2009 9:38 AM in response to wooden deck?

I bought compost & sod from Shannons to redo our back yard. Was very happy with them - felt they were helpful, straightforward, able to supply what I needed etc. I turned the soil/compost & laid the sod - looks great now.

Posted by: going4broke at May 1, 2009 11:46 AM in response to Sod Installation

Considering the paint is probably lead based, using a paint on lead encapsulation is a good solution (instead of stripping or replacing). We did this in 2 rooms and are very happy with the result.

Posted by: going4broke at April 29, 2009 1:13 PM in response to Tin Ceiling Restoration

Actually, I am looking to get wood (treated), my neighbor suggested chainlink given his opinion that it lasts longer. Part of the equation is price which is why I am looking to get quotes. Thx

Posted by: going4broke at April 16, 2009 7:46 AM in response to chain link fence installers

cmu - am interested in this too. Would you recommend your designer? Can you give (ballpark) cost on this piece? How long did it take? I am planning to take a week in april to do our garden but wld like some guidance.

Posted by: going4broke at March 23, 2009 7:50 AM in response to How Much to Create a Garden?

nybk01 - What do your neighbors think? Do they know what is coming? Will they know it was you that organized it?

Posted by: going4broke at January 13, 2009 1:08 PM in response to I LOVE the Parks Dept!

we have a marble counter & have had no problems despite heavy use. One night did get a red wine mark but this was faint to start with and now is invisible.

Posted by: going4broke at December 29, 2008 9:32 AM in response to Marble Counter Top - Practical?

We have radiant heat with Munchkin 140M boiler also heating Superstore 80. Recommended by heating engineer who spec'ed the system for us & works well... As I understand it, the setup is more energy efficient than a standalone waterheater (either tank or tankless). Also I believe gas is more efficient / inexpensive to run than electric. One other thing to note is make sure you have a plumber you are confident either has done this system before and/or is willing to put in a lot of time to get it right because it is a different and a more complicated install than the conventional systems. It isn't that it is rocket science but you have to follow the manufacturers instructions closely / do things differently to normal and this was challenging for our plumber although he did get it right in the end.

Posted by: going4broke at December 24, 2008 9:58 AM in response to What kind of hot water should I get???

are you sure they are mahogany? They look like Eastern White Pine (still a beautiful wood)...

Posted by: going4broke at December 22, 2008 11:11 PM in response to Parlor Level Doors

Thanks - much appreciated.

Posted by: going4broke at November 16, 2008 10:22 PM in response to How many is too many at a party?

Thanks for the feedback! I still have a concern that if the mains line in is closed and the valve fails that the pressure in the heating system could drop / water drain out & air into the heating system (causing problems with the circulation pumps etc). Is this realistic or very unlikely/not worth worrying about?

Posted by: going4broke at November 9, 2008 11:28 AM in response to pressure reducing valve leaking

Thanks for the feedback! I still have a concern that if the mains line in is closed and the valve fails that the pressure in the heating system could drop / water drain out & air into the heating system (causing problems with the circulation pumps etc). Is this realistic or very unlikely/not worth worrying about?

Posted by: going4broke at November 9, 2008 11:27 AM in response to pressure reducing valve leaking

Thanks for the feedback! I still have a concern that if the mains line in is closed and the valve fails that the pressure in the heating system could drop / water drain out & air into the heating system (causing problems with the circulation pumps etc). Is this realistic or very unlikely/not worth worrying about?

Posted by: going4broke at November 9, 2008 11:27 AM in response to pressure reducing valve leaking

PS I also need to get new latches for inside the doors that will work with a standard square cross section pin that runs between handles. Have seen cheap ones at hardware stores but am not sure if/where I should look elsewhere for better ones...

Posted by: going4broke at October 28, 2008 12:40 PM in response to I need 4-6 pairs of door handle rosettes

Nice job. I too like the chaise... Can you make recommendations for upholsterers?

Posted by: going4broke at October 21, 2008 12:34 PM in response to we found a great carpenter!

george taylor plumbing supplies downtown manhattan

Posted by: going4broke at September 8, 2008 7:56 PM in response to Good places to buy shower sets

we are just looking for a kid barrier, not security grates (nor wet mitten rack)... I did see the NYC info but haven't found it particularly helpful. Thx anyway.

Other comments/advice?

Posted by: going4broke at September 4, 2008 5:52 PM in response to positioning window guards

We used Texas Mesquite over radiant heat. Cant recommend it enough. Very stable & dense so good over radiant heat. Also both beautiful and environmentally friendly. Bought wood from Faifer & Co

Posted by: going4broke at July 7, 2008 9:00 PM in response to Radiant heat under Bamboo floor

Talk to Jason Dorn at Big Apple Chimney. He did our chimneys and I am very happy with the job. His prices are competitive.

Posted by: going4broke at June 19, 2008 5:55 PM in response to Uncovered fireplace with homemade chimney

i also like your sink. Can't argue with an architect...

Posted by: going4broke at June 18, 2008 7:59 PM in response to Partial fireplace removal

We used them for fireplaces (including totally dismantling & rebuilding a marble fireplace to put in a new hearth) & lining chimneys (given a rec. from friends of ours). We are very happy with the result. Jason Dorn is a good guy / easy to work with.

Posted by: going4broke at May 16, 2008 4:08 PM in response to Experience with Big Apple Chimney?

Can't give you much info beyond the following. As far as I know, more insulation is always better but I don't know cost/benefit. We were considering the attic fan but were advised that simply having a vent near the back of the house (low end of roof) & a vent hear the front (high end) was enough to allow convection to clear the hot air that might build up btw our insulated ceiling and the roof during summer... It is too early days for me to tell you how effective this is.

Posted by: going4broke at May 3, 2008 9:01 PM in response to Attic fan and insulation

Thanks John - I was in a hurry this time...

Posted by: going4broke at April 28, 2008 6:16 AM in response to glass etcher needed

Tomas Tisch in Red Hook does wheel etching of glass.

Posted by: going4broke at April 26, 2008 6:32 PM in response to glass etcher needed

We used a Munchkin 140M for our 4story 3600sqft - both heat & hot water (paired with SSU80). Very comfortable.

Posted by: going4broke at April 6, 2008 10:40 PM in response to To Radiant heat owners

PS I expect the setup your contractor is recommending would also require you to pay a monthly fee for monitoring. This is standard for this service but you want to know:

1 how much (can range from $8-$40+/mth), 2 who is monitoring, 3 do they have a good reputation (ask google etc), 4 do you have a fixed term contract or can you change providers any time at no cost...

Posted by: going4broke at March 12, 2008 6:56 AM in response to security systems...

I think you are confusing the monitoring services (& corresponding brands) with the hardware (/brands). As I understand it you always need a monitoring service / central station to receive your alarm call and then direct it to one of the emergency services depending on the type of call. Hardware is the actual physical electronics installed in your house.

SLomins etc are monitoring services that also install hardware. DSC is a brand of hardware. Check out www.homesecuritystore.com for info on hardware - they also have an interesting forum.

Posted by: going4broke at March 12, 2008 6:52 AM in response to security systems...

Thanks again. Appreciate the feedback.

The system does seem to be effectively eliminating air bubbles from the incoming street water as I can run the water back out to the sump bypassing the floor loops and not see any bubbles. I only see bubbles if I run the water through the floor loops. From what you wrote, I expect I have to just continue to purge the system for longer (I have been avoiding this as it seems to be a prodigious waste of water (if there were a better way). I have some pressure valve that lets me push the pressure up to ~30psi and it does help.

I am pretty confident that the overall design is right given it was written up by an experienced heat engineer recommended by Warmboard (the company who manufactures the radiant heat floor system we used). We have circulation pumps that match the spec. My problem is that the plumber who installed the system has introduced at least 1 problem (over tightening joins) and hasn't been as communicative/helpful as I would like. I wasn't confident that I wasn't missing something...

Posted by: going4broke at February 28, 2008 9:42 AM in response to How to purge air from heating system?

Master Plvmber - thanks for responding.

As I flush water through the system, draining into the sump, I can see bubbles pushed out. We do have one loop in a hallway that is probably not working effectively but I am not sure as the doors aren't yet sealed well and so it gets colder there (though I have pushed water through this loop after isolating it, but not to the point where no more bubbles come out). The floors in the rest of the house are obviously warm and the house is a comfortable temperature.

Is flushing the pipes with water the only effective way of getting the air out? Are there any tricks to help get the air out?

How long should it take to flush all the air out in this way?

I believe that a few of the rubber washers at the join of the pex to the manifolds are damaged from over tightening to the extent that the washers need replacing / are dripping water (very very slowly but visible). While I will get this done, I am wondering if this sort of thing could allow air into the system in the meantime.

Posted by: going4broke at February 27, 2008 11:45 PM in response to How to purge air from heating system?

Thanks for the comments. Unfortunately veneer is missing from all sides but one. As with a number of issues in our renovation, I should have paid more attention to this detail but then perhaps I would have missed something else... Will probably do a patch veneer keeping in mind 10:50's comment about avoiding perfection :)

Re rebuilding stairs - yes we are, done by the guy we now have working on putting Humpty Dumpty together again. Very lucky to have him as he is excellent & likes to work at one place at a time (doesn't spread his time over multiple jobs). I know he is booked however for some time though will recommend him on this site if he wants me to when we are done. FYI he did the treads 3 at a time working mainly from above putting in lots of bracing wood to make them super solid & square as possible given old house quirks. By the by he also put insulation underneath for soundproofing.

Posted by: going4broke at February 9, 2008 11:09 PM in response to Newel post veneer

another vote for the panasonic whisper fans. Very quiet to the point that we have left them on accidentally. They do have motion sensor versions that avoid that problem which we bought for the 2nd installation. I remember versions with lights but don't know if they come with motion sensor too. We got ours easily on the internet.

Posted by: going4broke at February 9, 2008 8:02 AM in response to Very Quiet Bathroom exhaust fan with Light

PS - any recommendations for good local hardware stores that could help us?

Posted by: going4broke at January 28, 2008 12:07 PM in response to reusing porcelain door knobs

Thanks Bob. We have some old mortice locks but not enough & don't have the keys. Spending time/money to get the locks fixed & new keys is one problem. Also, we are reusing doors in different positions including using closet doors as room doors. It's hard to fit mortice locks in some doors but I understand that the modern small mechanism should fit ok.

Posted by: going4broke at January 28, 2008 11:30 AM in response to reusing porcelain door knobs

We are using mesquite wood on all the floors for our reno (for many good reasons) and will finish with Tung oil split with biodegradable citrus solvent (alternative to mineral spirits). Buying all (wood, oil & solvent) from here:

http://www.mesquitefloors.com/tungoil.html

The oil & solvent cost is avg approx $50 per gal. from these guys - much less than $100/gal noted above.

Have a question for anyone with experience using wax over tung oil? Pros/cons vs just tung oil? Thanks.

Posted by: going4broke at November 17, 2007 12:56 AM in response to An Open Question: Finishing a Wood Floor

if you need to sell it, do it ASAP as posters say above. What happens if you don't sell before May? Even in a normal market, there is risk that you price it too high, that you waste time with a bad broker or buyer or bank or whatever else might delay contracting/closing & stale the listing. If these scenarios ruin your life and you don't want to / can't afford to drop the price to give away levels at the last moment to force a sale, put it on the mkt now.

Posted by: going4broke at November 9, 2007 6:53 AM in response to Better to Sell in December or January?

you can get tax deductions on interest on mortgages up to i think 1mm & home eq up to 100 grand.

Posted by: going4broke at October 2, 2007 6:29 AM in response to Financing home improvements

OP: i don't like carpet in this picture that much either. Not really sure what works. Have a vague idea that a mid-dark tone color would be ok, in some sturdy short wool. Not sure about a border or minimal pattern. Definitely don't want a shiny perfect, symmetric 'persian' runner.

FYI We have gone to great lengths to use natural materials in our house. We are concerned about air quality.

Re painting, our assumption is that over time it would get chipped & dirty. Is this true? If not, what paint is good?

Posted by: going4broke at August 17, 2007 7:14 PM in response to Carpet on staircase - Yes or yuck???

Horrifying article. Fungal mat -- I want to know more.

Posted by: mopar at November 3, 2009 2:58 PM in response to Air Quality Assessment

If you can swing it, break into that other apt. and reclaim it. Screw the nice tenants. Don't put your child in the basement, alone, surrounded by potential hazards.

Posted by: Architerrorist at November 3, 2009 7:50 PM in response to Air Quality Assessment

Seems like the fire/lack of egress thing nixes it completely. Not to mention all the potential environmental concerns. Plus, if you convert it, you'll lose the family room. Why is it not an option to put two kids in one room for now? Seems like putting several kids in the same room (or even the same bed) was de riguer for many large families up until the 1950sification of this country. Or keep the newborn in a bassinet in your room (or co-sleep) for the first 6-12 months or so, and then move both kids into the same room.

Posted by: pinetree at November 4, 2009 10:32 AM in response to Air Quality Assessment

Yes, the egress thing does nix this idea. Thanks to everyone who pointed it out. Pinetree, we actually only have ONE bedroom upstairs (wish we had more) so what is looking like our best option right now is to put a pressurized wall in the middle of it (it is roughly 19 feet by 11.5, so not huge, but definitely split-worthy) and have toddler in front room with windows, and newborn with us for first 6-12 months like you suggested. Then, both kids go in front room. The quotes we got for pressurized wall (with glass panel for light transmission) were reasonable. And then we'll get an air purifier regardless for the basement. We're looking at the Rabbit Air, but am not sure what the benefits of something like that over an air exchanger system (humidex) would be. Thanks again to all for your help/suggestions.

Posted by: maribrooklyn at November 4, 2009 3:49 PM in response to Air Quality Assessment

I would also like to know. I have been toying around with the idea of pulling up my floors and leveling certain sections. No need for new floor but pulling up the old one and new subfloor sounds like it could be costly.
At the end of the day nobody notices it but me but I find myself wanting to correct it more and more.

Posted by: Adam Dahill at November 9, 2009 3:25 PM in response to New Subfloor Under Wide Plank

Any particular reason you would feel compelled to do this vs. simply refinishing the floors where they lay?

Posted by: wyckoff at November 9, 2009 3:58 PM in response to New Subfloor Under Wide Plank

Once the planks are removed and before the subflooring is installed, provide sound attentuating insulating batts. You may also consider additional cork underlayment between the subfloor and finish floorin for additional soundproofing. Ed Kopel Architects, PC

Posted by: edkopel at November 9, 2009 7:15 PM in response to New Subfloor Under Wide Plank

Thanks all for the info.

Might decide to try this on one room this year (starting in the attic so we can continue to live in the house...)

Posted by: Park Place at November 10, 2009 9:54 AM in response to New Subfloor Under Wide Plank

My contractor can definitely do this and can get you a good price quickly, you can call him and say Mr. T sent you.

Rafique 718-791-1179

Posted by: tanive at November 10, 2009 11:30 AM in response to New Subfloor Under Wide Plank

have done this many times and yes although it is a big job, there is nothing like a level floor with salvaged old pine flooring. happy to give you an estimate when you are ready. shane d. 917-495-7120

Posted by: smdconstruction at November 10, 2009 4:57 PM in response to New Subfloor Under Wide Plank