Where did you do your research, Carrie?
Consumer Reports doesn't have much to say about hw heaters.

Posted by: flyingelephant at February 8, 2007 6:06 PM in response to long showers

Please do post your list of favorite books, Crown Heights Proud.
Thanks.

Posted by: flyingelephant at February 8, 2007 6:04 PM in response to Renovation reference book

Please do give that name, TonyTone.
Also - are these new mod.com boilers recommended for houses with forced air systems?

Posted by: flyingelephant at November 16, 2006 12:03 PM in response to New Gas Boiler Installation

Woodfold doesn't sell direct, iirc.
They have great product - has anyone here worked with one of thir local distributors?

Posted by: flyingelephant at November 13, 2006 9:11 PM in response to Wood shutters/louvers

Yes, it's a canopy, and Grand Brass is a great source.
Oddly, I was down on the Bowery on Saturday, looking for a canopy. I found a small shop on the SE corner of Delancey and Bowery that has a decent selection of new and used canopies. I got a lovely brass one with filagree - just what i needed for my recent purchase of a vintage Moroccan hanging pendant lamp. I thought it was a bit too much at $30 - but it looks great and I didn't have to pay shipping.

Posted by: flyingelephant at November 13, 2006 2:49 PM in response to Part Needed for Antique Chandelier

Ack. Original poster here.
If it as lousy a problem as you are suggesting (cracked waste pipe, which I also suspect may be the case) - can I get at that from below by cracking open the ceiling of the bathroom below? I just tiled the bath in question and would hate to have to crack that open and retile.

How can I ascertain this for sure? I'd like to make this problem go away for ever - and don't want to rip up seilings and/or floors unless I need to. I would be happy to fix it if I need to - but don't want to fix a cracked wastepipe if it isn't cracked.

Also - Gateway said they don't open up ceilings or floors - to get a contractor for that. Who do people recommend for that?

Posted by: flyingelephant at November 7, 2006 2:12 PM in response to Bathroom leak - need permanent fix!

I've had a very good experience with Paul Laidlaw of WCK Electric. (718) 778-0070 I got the referral on Brownstoner, and he did a good job on my tenant's apartment, and the quote was 1/3 less than the others I was getting. Tell him you got the referral from Terry on Decatur St.

Posted by: flyingelephant at November 6, 2006 12:45 PM in response to Licensed Electrician Needed

I also love Rejuvenation for all the reasons posted, but they aen't cheap. I recently needed some retro-style push-button switches, and they were twice as much as the manufacturer for the same switches (you can tell in their photo who made the switches.)
I saved considerable $$$ - and think it's an excessive markup.
Someone has to pay for printing those lovely catalogs.

Posted by: flyingelephant at November 6, 2006 9:25 AM in response to Lighting Sources?

Thanks, Yente.

Posted by: flyingelephant at November 5, 2006 9:22 PM in response to Sanding/Stripping stairs

Why do I get the feeling you are somehow connected to this M&M Construction?

Anyway - I'm the original poster - does anyone have someone they can recommend who can sand stairs, and not just the tops, but also the vertical parts as well?
Thanks.

Posted by: flyingelephant at November 5, 2006 9:45 AM in response to Sanding/Stripping stairs

I'd never heard of French drains before - interesting.
Who do you all recommend to do this kind of work?

Posted by: flyingelephant at November 4, 2006 11:20 AM in response to Basements?

I'd like to go to this school as well!

Posted by: flyingelephant at November 2, 2006 11:41 AM in response to plaster/skim coat tutor needed

I would have recommended Abbington as the first choice!
This month's issue of either Old House Journal or This Old House magazine has a feature on tin ceilings, and they list about 10 different suppliers, most of which have websites.

Posted by: flyingelephant at November 2, 2006 11:23 AM in response to tin ceiling replacement tiles

Hi - OP here.
Thanks for the replies.
the 50 gallon tank is definitely not enough for all the occupants - at peak times we run out of hot water.
So - I'm thinking of either the 50 hi-rec or the 75 gallon.
And still trying to decide on Sears or the high priced spread.
How quickly the the hi-rec recover?
Thanks.

Posted by: flyingelephant at October 30, 2006 12:53 PM in response to Replacement hot water heaters - who/what to use?

Thanks for your post. I was thinking of someone else to do the insulating - is it easy to do? I want to be thorough, which is why the blown -in approach was attractive - although I have no idea what it might cost. There is a tenant living in the top floor now.
We have access to the crawlspace above with a trap door, and also via a removable 4 pane window which is be low the skylight. and rests in an opening in the ceiling. Do you think the insulation bats are a good option for us? What do you estimate the cost to be?

Posted by: flyingelephant at October 26, 2006 12:50 AM in response to Insulation for insulation - not soundproofing

I don't have an answer, but what do you mean you got your street tree? From the city? Details, please. Thanks.

Posted by: flyingelephant at October 25, 2006 8:54 PM in response to Tree Pit Wrought Iron Fencing

Try Bernie's glass in Bed-Stuy.
Ask for Jerome.

Posted by: flyingelephant at October 25, 2006 8:24 PM in response to Cuttng Hall Mirror

Does anyone here have contact info. for Donald Morgan?
Thanks!

Posted by: flyingelephant at October 25, 2006 8:04 PM in response to Small Bathroom Reno

I had a good experience with Gateway - and also found them to be expensive and somewhat too busy - so appointments were rescheduled, often at the last minute.
Who else is a good plumber, reaonably priced and reliable?
I'e heard good things about Hlad - any other recommendations?

Posted by: flyingelephant at October 25, 2006 2:27 PM in response to Need heating contractor other than gateway plumbing

Halsey has some nice properties. I decided not to buy there because of the heavy traffic - two way street and buses in both directions.

Posted by: flyingelephant at October 24, 2006 9:21 PM in response to Houses of the Day: Halsey Street Doubleshot

I also have been thinking of exposing the brick on a
few walls in my house. An architect suggested that to do it on the party wall is better than on the front or back walls, partly because of insulation issues.

I don't want to the room to be darker, however, and have been trying o think of a way to lighten the look of the brick, without a total whte paint job - like a whitewash effect. Any opinions on this treatment of brick? And how I'd achieve it?

Posted by: flyingelephant at October 23, 2006 7:02 PM in response to Exposed brick

Original poster, here. Thanks for your comments. I believe the termite damage is mostly in the floor boards. When I had the engineer's inspection, he came up with some minor evidence of termites - the owner had the place treated for $800 - and then, last week, when I pulled up the plywood and vinyl tiles covering the old pine that had the damage, I had the termite man come out again to look at the damge, both from the kitchen level, and in the cellar. So I think I'm covered.

If I go with the new unfinished oak - is it wise to just lay it down over the old pine planks? I'm concerned I'm losing a bit of height in the room, as well as wondering if this is good building practice? Thanks, again.

Posted by: flyingelephant at July 31, 2006 11:30 PM in response to Kitchen floor hell

Oh -and what else are good at? Wiring a ceiling fan? Sheetrock/plaster? Replacing broken windows? I have a whole list of small handyman tasks and could use some good help. Thanks.

Posted by: flyingelephant at July 31, 2006 6:58 PM in response to Handyman Recommendation

What does he charge?

Posted by: flyingelephant at July 31, 2006 6:55 PM in response to Handyman Recommendation

Thanks for the advice, all.
What would be a fair price for installing two exhaust fans be - including the duct work? (Two bathrooms.)

Posted by: flyingelephant at July 26, 2006 7:09 AM in response to Bathroom Vent - Again - No duct?

Thanks for the suggestion, Rick. I think kI've found a local jack of all trades to do it - but he's brught up another question - which I've made a new thread.

Posted by: flyingelephant at July 24, 2006 11:58 PM in response to Need to install vent in bathroom

Original Poster again. Thanks for the advice, Rick.
(I hope it didn't come acroos in any way that Rick had let me down. He replied promptly to my email, called me the next morning - and is just too busy/far away to help out. Lettting me know was professional and responsible of him, and I appreciate it. I'm just disapponted I won't be getting the benefit of his good work.)

So - who would be a good person to contact to install these bathroom exhaust fans? An electrician, a handyman? Thanks.

Posted by: flyingelephant at July 22, 2006 6:25 PM in response to Need to install vent in bathroom

Original poster here. Unfortunately, Rick (above) is too far way from my house (I'm in Bed-Stuy) to come and install a couple of bathroom exhaust fans. Can anyone recommend someone to do it?
I'm thinking I should do the one on the top floor as well as the one beneath in on the parlor floor. Both bathrooms have a window onto a vented skylight. Most of the exhaust fans I've seen seem to go ni the ceiling, rather than a vertical mounting. Also - I have COnsumer Reports recommendations for these exhaust fans. Should I go to Lowe's and pick a few up and try to find someone to install them, or find someone who installs them and charges me for the fan at the same time? Help!

Posted by: flyingelephant at July 21, 2006 11:45 PM in response to Need to install vent in bathroom

Original poster here. I had always heard that oil was better than water for poly - but now that the VOCs are much lower - and water-based is more in demand (several coops/condos in NYC won't allow anything oil-based because of fumes and environmental hazards) - apparently the newest water-based polys are excelent - especially this BonaKemi stuff. Can anyone who is up to date comment?

Thanks!

Posted by: flyingelephant at July 20, 2006 6:33 PM in response to Floors - Water or Oil-Based Finish?

Ken Cushman is great. I've used him, as have several of my acquaintences. Prompt, reliable and with a great work ethic and slightly wacky sense of humor. 212-529-8269

Posted by: flyingelephant at June 30, 2006 10:18 AM in response to Man with a van?

What is the price to do insulation in a brownstone crawlspace/attic - blown or otherwise? What cost savings can one expect to realize? When I had my Bed-Stuy 2-family inspected, the engineer suggested blown-in insulation for the space just under the roof - but I'm not sure what's involved...

Posted by: flyingelephant at June 29, 2006 2:01 PM in response to Blown insulation?

Emilia,
Thanks for the post and recommendation for Muhamed.
Would you be willing to email me so I can ask you a few more questions?
Thanks.

Terry
terryk@echonycdotcom.
(replace the dot with .)

Posted by: flyingelephant at June 26, 2006 10:04 AM in response to Prices for top-quality painters?

Well, I think it might depend on what floor the apartment is in...and are you moving a circuit box up from the basement? I have a 1000 square foot apartment on the 4th floor of a building built in the early 1900's. The circuit breaker box is in the basement and all of the wiring is really old. I looked into updating all wiring and got 3-4 quotes around $10,000 - $15,000, that would also have entailed poking through all of my neighbor's apartments as well as the common hallways and cosmetically fixing that.
In the end, I negotiated the reduction before closing but after moving in I decided to hold off on doing the work and see how bad it was. Ultimately, I decided not to do the work. The lights sometimes flicker a bit, and they dim when I use the toaster or microwave (those things add charm!), but in all, I have only blown a fuse once in 9 months. It's a MAJOR overhaul and I decided I could live without it in the end.
Have you moved in yet?
You might be able to spend that money on renovating the bathroom or something bigger...

Posted by: Alexuma at November 10, 2006 9:55 AM in response to Licensed Electrician Needed

You can also try Lamp Doctor on Coney Island Avenue. They recently rewired and refurbished my antique brass chandelier and did an excellent job.

Posted by: at November 13, 2006 7:05 PM in response to Part Needed for Antique Chandelier

check for canopies online too.

Posted by: at November 13, 2006 7:12 PM in response to Part Needed for Antique Chandelier

No choice really: go to

http://www.shutterblinds.com/

and click on "raised panel" on the left
and check out the devenco line. They rule.
Cost about $1000/window. Ask for wayne.

Posted by: at November 13, 2006 9:52 PM in response to Wood shutters/louvers

Original poster here-- Thank you all for the great information. It's very much appreciated!

Posted by: at November 13, 2006 9:58 PM in response to Part Needed for Antique Chandelier

Heights Woodworking on 3rd Ave. in Park Slope makes Custom Made Window Shutters

Call Them (718) 875-7497

Posted by: at November 14, 2006 3:08 PM in response to Wood shutters/louvers

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Posted by: Nada_Carevna at November 16, 2006 10:24 AM in response to Basements?

if you only need this for hot water as opposed to heat or both then you might only want a hw heater. we use Tavella Plumbing, the owner's name is Vincent. they will be able to tell you what you need. i found prices to be reasonable and they can solve any problem. they're at (718) 843-2542.
http://www.tavellaplumbing.com/home/

Posted by: TonyTone at November 16, 2006 2:40 PM in response to New Gas Boiler Installation

That's great information TonyTone. Please include the name of the company.
Just one thing. The Laars Endurance does not appear to run at lower temps than 140 degrees since it is not a condensing boiler. Condensing boilers tend to use the heat from the flue gases toward heating as well and are therefore able to be more efficient and save you more, especially in high mass systems like the cast iron hotwater radiator systems that a lot of these old houses have. Also when going with a modulating / condensing boiler, it is a good idea to get an outdoor reset, that modulates the boiler based on outdoor temps. If it's cold outside, the boiler puts out hotter water into the radiators, than when it is warmer. Thereby, these boilers also avoid the energy wasting stop-start cycling of conventional (often oversized) boilers, since they are more or less 'on' all the time. Sort of like city driving costs you more fuel than highway driving.

Posted by: Yeshwant at November 16, 2006 3:17 PM in response to New Gas Boiler Installation

Try the wall hung boilers

http://www.wallhungboilers.com/baxi/

Posted by: PEC at November 17, 2006 5:48 AM in response to New Gas Boiler Installation