If the windows still leak where two meet, after you weatherstrip, you can use an astragal to seal and cover the gap. Zero is a great resource.

Posted by: edifice rex at October 22, 2009 4:51 PM in response to Winterizing Cafe Windows

I had Dependable Windows of Freeport NY install 48 large, about 42x78, aluminum tilt and turns made by Optimum. The windows were very impressive, very tight, quiet and well built. It's been 10 years and they have held up well. Your windows will probably have to be aluminum. Make sure to specify a hold open if you want to use them like a casement. You can have screens if the windows swing in but that rarely makes sense. I give them an A for the windows, B for the installation.

Posted by: edifice rex at October 22, 2009 4:36 PM in response to Tilt & Turn

Metro Restoration, facade/masonry work, is at 718-521-1435

Posted by: edifice rex at October 21, 2009 5:53 PM in response to Metro Renovations

This site, http://www.rumford.com/technical.html is very informative and they have a distributor in New Jersey. I have never dealt with them but their Rumford kits look to be very good.

Posted by: edifice rex at October 17, 2009 3:29 PM in response to Chimney and fireplaces

Check the threads on the valve very closely they may be damaged, or try a different valve to be sure where the problem is. If there is a broken valve stem in the opening you will need to remove it. Use an EZ-out/screw extractor that fits the hole with some penetrating oil or WD-40 and let it work for a few minutes then back out the broken piece.
If the threads are damaged you will need to use a tap and lubricant to re thread them.
A good plumbing supply, Sids hardware or Sears has everything you need.

Posted by: edifice rex at October 9, 2009 6:14 PM in response to Steam Radiator Problem

If you do it yourself, and I don't recommend it, do NOT use a drum sander. You will do more harm than good. It's a dirty, smelly, laborious job and for $1500 I just don't think you will save that much. You can do it yourself,many people do, but the return on investment is low.

Posted by: edifice rex at October 9, 2009 10:59 AM in response to Sanding and Refinishing Floors

Agreed, do not depend on the honesty of a broker. I would suggest you prepare your own fee agreement and have all interested brokers sign it. All commissions are negotiable and the more they make the more responsive they will be. Make sure you keep a list of exclusions in case they bring a buyer you have already met with. If this is your first time spend a few hundred dollars and get some legal guidance.

Posted by: edifice rex at October 9, 2009 10:40 AM in response to FSBO Ground Rules

Oops! It's the MK 100. http://www.mkdiamond.com/tile/saw_100.html

Posted by: edifice rex at October 7, 2009 7:45 AM in response to ISO: Wet Tile Saw

I've had this saw for over 10 years and never had any problems, it is always accurate and I highly recommend it. Dozens of kitchens and baths and many, many thousands of bricks. It's about $600 and at $50 for each kitchen and bath well worth it. Even less if you sell it when you are finished.

Posted by: edifice rex at October 6, 2009 6:38 PM in response to ISO: Wet Tile Saw

I have no local recommendations but take a look here http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,216493,00.html Online there are several makers of kits that a carpenter could install. Custom made is better but pretty pricey.

Posted by: edifice rex at October 2, 2009 4:18 PM in response to Paneling Maker?

Too bad and good to know. Do these Brazilians have a name and number? Posting it may cost Verrazano a few jobs they might otherwise have gotten.

Posted by: edifice rex at October 2, 2009 3:38 PM in response to Verrazano Flooring NOT WORTH IT

A mud job is not always necessary. Wonder board will work as long as it it is well fastened with no voids below.. You might consider a Ditra or Schulter or Laticrete anti-fracture, waterproofing membrane. Most cracks are caused by a lack of stiffness in the sub floor or a poor installation. The larger the tile the more stiffness/protection you need.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 28, 2009 1:47 PM in response to Marble Tiles and Subflooring

Who knows maybe they will add a gable and face it with brick. If you want people to build lovely buildings/additions then the city should offer optional bonuses and create ANOTHER agency to approve the work.
The yellow stuff is Densglas, an exterior, waterproof gypsum board that can be covered with anything. http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=4674

Posted by: edifice rex at September 25, 2009 4:18 PM in response to Horror Show Friday: 1715 11th Avenue

Jim, I would rally like to see a $100 a foot pre-fab in Brooklyn. Really I would, can you direct me to one. I've priced it out in the past, about three years ago and did not find any significant savings for a good quality building, very few manufacturer would deliver to NYC and there were NY code complications. I'm all for it. Well done pre-fab is great, especially SIP panels.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 23, 2009 6:20 PM in response to Cost of Building?

Any type X sheetrock will give you a fire rating, 1 hour for each 5/8" layer. You need a two hour rating in the boiler room, metal is not required. If you have moisture issues use Dens Armour or Densglas. Some green board is rated for ceilings some is not, it may sag.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 23, 2009 4:44 PM in response to What to Use for Cellar Ceiling?

Call an electrician since none is responding here. A 200 amp main service will feed more than 4-50amp panels. It is assumed that not all the available electricity will be used at the same time., but 8? I don't know, maybe ,call an electrician

Posted by: edifice rex at September 22, 2009 12:22 PM in response to 200 Amps enough for 8 unit Coop?

DIBS,permits are required for all hanging scaffolds and fixed scaffolding only if it is over 40 feet.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 17, 2009 11:51 AM in response to Permits and Estimates

There is no practical way to reduce the vibration. You can build a sound isolated room within a room, basically a recording studio, but it is very expensive. Chances are you,ll get used to it, I did.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 11, 2009 11:50 AM in response to Subway Vibration

$480 a foot to build? I think "break even" includes about $200 a foot profit.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 10, 2009 3:58 PM in response to 163 Washington Avenue Coming to Market in January

How thick is it? I have similar flooring that is 1/4" thick. If that is the case any cabinet shop could easily mill the pieces for you. Even if it is T&G the bits to cut it are less than $150. It will cost more than $5 ft though. I think raw oak is $3 to $4 a foot.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 9, 2009 4:58 PM in response to Help Matching Parquet

The horror! The inhumanity! A bike might have to actually stop! All streets with bike lanes shall have no parking whatsoever and just to be safe no other vehicles or pedestrians.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 9, 2009 12:57 PM in response to Possible Perils of the Sands Street Bike Path

If the roof is a concrete slab there should be a slight pitch to each drain not necessarily to the edge of the roof. It's always better to have a roof shed water but a little standing water on a roof is not uncommon, brownstones often have some at the roofing seams and low spots in the roof but it is more troubling in new construction. If the roof is a concrete slab with a Kemper membrane or other very high quality roofing it will be fine if not beware. The concrete alone will be waterproof until it begins to crack. What exactly did the inspector say about the quality of the roof and the potential for problems and how deep are the puddles?

Posted by: edifice rex at September 8, 2009 4:37 PM in response to Should We Walk Away?

PS. if you do fire him you will reget it.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 4, 2009 11:31 AM in response to Fire This Contractor?

Do you like the tiles? If yes then relax and let him make a little money for being a good shopper.As for trust did he tell you about the price difference? Would you have known? As for the concrete if this is a floor slab and he used a pre-mix without too much water it will be fine, if it was structural it would be a big deal but transit mixed is much better and usually cheaper. If the wood came from a humid warehouse in Georgia you might have a problem, if it is narrow strip oak it should be OK. It seems like he's doing his best to keep on schedule and some compromises are to be expected.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 4, 2009 11:31 AM in response to Fire This Contractor?

Expensive? You can't be serious. If this includes a foundation I don't believe it can be built to code and filed for $60 a foot. If it works out please post the contractors name, I have a lot of work for him.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 4, 2009 10:57 AM in response to Expensive Estimate?

It is very good, probably the best, but certainly not the only good way to weatherstrip a door of any size. V-bronze is very easy and almost as good. If you do find someone with experience with the interlocking it will be very expensive(my father used to install it). And since the alignment is critical, if you have any settling in the jamb the interlocking pieces will keep the door from closing.

Posted by: edifice rex at September 1, 2009 9:52 PM in response to interlocking weather strip

If you can do it now without LPC approval defiantly replace them ASAP. Window approval is usually the least painful approval but it can be a real pain and become ridiculous if you are unlucky. You will save money and time by avoiding the LPC process and you will save some cash on heating this winter.

Posted by: edifice rex at August 31, 2009 11:10 AM in response to Windows: Advice please

This guy may be a scammer, but flipping a contract is not unusual or illegal. If his contract is sound,the original owner competent and no fraud was used, he is in control and will no doubt shop it around for the highest price. Unless the owner wants to challenge the agreement he is the seller.What does your lawyer say?

Posted by: edifice rex at August 28, 2009 11:59 PM in response to Assignment of contract for sale

This not Cobble Hill, get with it.

Posted by: edifice rex at August 27, 2009 3:52 PM in response to House of the Day: 86 Douglass Street

Try George Taylor on Franklin in Tribeca or NY Replacement parts on Lexington UES

Posted by: edifice rex at August 27, 2009 7:35 AM in response to metric faucet

CG if you are still reading.....Now is a good time to do a new kitchen but don't expect 50% off. Prices are down a bit and more contractors are available but it really depends on the hunger of your contractor. Just be sure to get many bids, some guys are very competitive now and you may get a deal.But any deal that seems to good to be true usually is.

Posted by: edifice rex at August 26, 2009 3:35 PM in response to Reno Prices Down?

The reason the old one was covered with tar was to stop the leaks just as you have now. The glass should be sealed at the mullions,some contractors just set the glass and hope for the best. Some skylights are vented, some are not, it depends what you want or need. I prefer vented because you have the option of sealing it as DIBS does, but wind driven rain can get in the vent if it is not well designed To get a reasonable price comparison call S&J sheet metal in the Bronx, they will give you a price over the phone/fax.

Posted by: edifice rex at August 21, 2009 10:50 AM in response to Contractor Headache

Tapcons.

Posted by: edifice rex at August 19, 2009 10:14 AM in response to Hanging Paintings

See if you can negotiate a buy out with the tenant before, and as part of the purchase. The money spent will likely be less than the legal fees and many months it will take to evict a non cooperating tenant. It will also give you a sense of what the tenant will be like in litigation. If you follow the law you will probably win...eventually but it is a lot of grief. Housing court is somewhere between level 3 and 4 in Hell

Posted by: edifice rex at August 13, 2009 5:04 PM in response to Eviction for Owner Occupancy

It can be done but hurry. This landlord won and as a result they may change the law. It took several years and hundreds of thousand of dolars. http://www.thevillager.com/villager_207/tenantsareunitedunder.html Google this for an education. It will be cheaper to offer buy outs if the tenants are willing. You could find this lawyer from court papers

Posted by: edifice rex at August 11, 2009 5:06 PM in response to Taking Over Rent-Stab Unit

If this is a LPC violation and you ignore the violation it will likely have no effect as LPC typicaly doesn't enforce penalties until you want to do work that requires a permit, then you will have to resolve it.
What, specifically, is the violation for? If it is for an unsafe sidewalk that is very different.
Doing any work without LPC approval will not resolve anything and may get you a second LPC violation.

Posted by: edifice rex at August 6, 2009 10:25 AM in response to Landmark Sidewalk Renovation

With 20% down it is unlikely a bank will recognize any equity to secure another loan. It depends on the appraisal vs what you paid. Ask your mortgage lender what they think.

Posted by: edifice rex at July 9, 2009 5:34 PM in response to Renovation finance 101

I know enough to write about this I have replaced many lintels. There are known knowns, known unknowns... I guess all us young whipper snappers piss you off. sammie you don't know the condition of the wall or the mortar. No structural issues? The lower wall is supporting the substantial load of the masonry above and maybe the neighbors. By your "reasoning" you can take out as much brick as you like? I know that sound brick is self supporting to a 45 degree angle with a vertical load but it has very little resistance to a lateral load. But it is not something to take lightly. I was urging caution to a novice. Chill

Posted by: edifice rex at June 26, 2009 9:23 PM in response to Enlarging a Backyard Window

PS Casing is the molding or trim surrounding a door frame. The frame that the hinges and door stop attach to is a jamb.

Posted by: edifice rex at June 26, 2009 5:39 PM in response to Installing Doors

Add at least 2" to the width of the door assuming the jamb is 3/4" thick and your framing is good. Remember it is much easier to shim an opening to make it smaller than to make it larger. Doors and jambs are demanding for beginners but doable if you have skills and patience. They must be exactly plumb in all directions, flat and square. I suggest you do one complete door start to finish before you install multiple jambs and find you have problems. Go here http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/ get a free membership and do search for door jambs.

Posted by: edifice rex at June 26, 2009 5:36 PM in response to Installing Doors

If you are widening an opening in the brick it is not that simple. There are serious structural issues, do not take it lightly. If it is a one story wood frame extension it is a simple job and probably could be done before DOB could respond. By law you do need approval from both agencies, if you are lucky, have good neighbors and respect them while you do the work you might get away with the simple job. I would not touch brick demolition without a permit.

Posted by: edifice rex at June 26, 2009 3:18 PM in response to Enlarging a Backyard Window

CMU I agree with you. But if you paint it w/o LPC approval you may get a violation, which could probably be resolved by repainting it white but maybe not. LPC has no concern about the cost or how long it takes.

Posted by: edifice rex at June 26, 2009 11:39 AM in response to LPC-Approved Door Maker? Cont'd

Look here first http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,1174950,00.html then buy a cheap air nailer, or a cordless electric nailer It will do a neater job and save you a lot of time, just make sure it shoots a nail long enough to reach the joist. Stagger the scarf joints somewhat randomly and they will be less noticeable. Use a yellow wood glue and a 3d finish nail through the lap of the joint to secure it. Then clean and prime the joint then putty if needed. You must have a fire resistant ceiling, plaster or sheetrock, between the beadboard and the joists or your kitchen will be a fire trap.

Posted by: edifice rex at June 25, 2009 6:27 PM in response to Beadboard Question

If you can afford it GreenGlue will help with the sound and act as an adhesive. If you shop around it cost about 80 cents a sq ft for the material. I've used it only in walls and it helps,but will not eliminate all noise. It probably works better in floors as it dampens structure borne noise. Otherwise almost any flooring mastic will work. You don't need the best because you have so much surface area. But be sure to use short screws between the joists as well . 1/2" plywood will do a good job of flattening and stiffening your floor

Posted by: edifice rex at June 17, 2009 10:34 AM in response to Subfloor re-enforcement

Both sides yes, but it is moisture, as in vapor, resistant. It is almost useless exposed to water. I would only use it in a bathroom for the ceiling or upper wall, no where near water. DensArmor Plus is a much better product for occasional exposure to water. Cement board is best for wet locations.

Posted by: edifice rex at June 17, 2009 10:23 AM in response to Greenboard

You are about to lose your job so you want to buy a house? That thinking is so pre crash. What happens when you need major repairs or you can't get the rents you expect or can not get a tenant for a few months or you have to spend 6 months in court to evict a non payer? Unless you have huge savings you will need a lot of good luck.

Posted by: edifice rex at June 17, 2009 10:17 AM in response to Seeking Advice on Multi-Family

Oops I see he bought in 05 not the peak so just do the math to see if it makes sense.

Posted by: edifice rex at June 10, 2009 5:31 PM in response to Purchasing a Vacant Lot

You need to do the math. What is the FAR and how much are you paying per buildable foot? Add your construction cost which could be $200 to $500 a foot depending on your taste and experience building a house then compare it to the value of comparable homes. The last time I checked construction loans were hard to come by unless you have mucho equity. If he bought at the peak of the market and is expecting to make a profit............I doubt its worth doing.

Posted by: edifice rex at June 10, 2009 5:28 PM in response to Purchasing a Vacant Lot

Smokeychimp is completely correct. Dunnage is not always required but it usually is best in brownstones for two reasons, one is structure borne vibration/noise in a weak roof, the other is the unit may settle into your many layered roof as it heats up in the summer. Sometimes you can set the dunnage in a corner with much shorter steel. Also many architects/engineers build with a safety factor of 10, but it is their license.

Posted by: edifice rex at June 9, 2009 12:38 PM in response to a/c rooftop dunnage

As a broker, I would say 3% is standard for an open listing. If you want, depending on the advertising you're doing, you can tell (not that they always listen) brokers they can bring buyers by but not to advertise the listing for the first month or so to see how it goes.

If the traffic is not optimal, then give them the green light to advertise.

As for who trusts who: Most brokers would gladly accept a signed open listing agreement at 3%, ironically, it's the owners that feel uncomfortable signing anything.

In spite the sentiments of other posters about the usefulness of brokers, yes - many are waste of space but the plain fact is: many if not most buyers work with brokers that have already separated the serious and qualified from the “hobbyists” and “browsers.” It's the only way you will get full exposure to the market. That's why I co-broke ALL my exclusives, believe me - I don't look forward to paying a buyer's broker half my commission but I understand it's in the best interest of my seller to get the maximum exposure possible.

Posted by: Crownlfc at October 9, 2009 1:11 PM in response to FSBO Ground Rules

FSBO is a no brainer if a seller is willing to dedicate some time to show the property. Very highly confident that available technology will suffice for market penetration (i.e NYT website, Craigslist, etc.). This is exactly the technology that broker's and agents use. You might be better served receiving early advice from a profesional and objective real estate advisor. There is a fee for the professional services associated with this advice but it will save you a ton of money in the long run (i.$500,000/3%/6% = $15,000/$30,000 to broker or agent to be in "Nappa". Frustration well understood. A sound real estate advisor who specializes in your given area of real estate (cooperative/condos in your instance) or other areas will also present information and questions of beneficial interest that may add some additional value and potential savings to the sale and other future purchases or conveyances. Most professional real estate advisors have a profesional license and strong real estate background in areas of the real estate industry (real estate finance, real estate law, accounting, architecture, engineering, development)along with the necessary market knowledge within each specialty; far beyond a NYS Broker License or NY Sales Agent License. Moreover, you can seek and receive advice from the professional real estate advisor that is objective and NOT self-serving since no commission is involved. If you are not willing to do the physical showings, there is always another solution.

Posted by: foulplay at October 9, 2009 1:48 PM in response to FSBO Ground Rules

I would try a new valve or borrow one from another radiator. If the threads are dirty or a tiny bit crushed there could be trouble. If it was peviously installed cross threaded it could of damaged the hole. I would wash with a tap oil or Kroil.

I would chase the hole with a tap first. I believe it is a 1/8" NPT thread which is I would look for in a plumbing supply rather than a hardware store. Graingers or McMaster will have it.

I would repair the hole with HELICOIL. This is a Mcmaster or Grainger item, or maybe the plumbing supply would have the NPT kit.

Posted by: Pstreet at October 9, 2009 9:14 PM in response to Steam Radiator Problem

I did small room in my house with janitor machine. It took me whole day and I had bunch of bruises from the beast.

on the other side, if you need to do a whole floor, you have time and you do not need to move furniture it is doable. also you probubly can save if you will pros to sand and will take responsibility to put the poly yourself.

Posted by: bobjohn at October 9, 2009 11:16 PM in response to Sanding and Refinishing Floors

The air vent tapping is 1/8". If you buy a tap tool, make sure you specify PIPE thread or else they may give you bolt or machine thread.

Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 10, 2009 6:51 AM in response to Steam Radiator Problem

My husband and I sold our place in Bed-Stuy FSBO in Nov. 2007. (We put it on the market in July '07.) When brokers approached me, I took down their information and told them I would contact them if we felt we needed more help. I think most buyers are using the NYT and craigslist and if you're savvy about it you can do just as good a job as the brokers. We had a good amount of traffic and a couple offers right away. But I was ready to work with a broker I liked if things got too slow for us on our own. Glad we didn't need to! I wouldn't pay more than 3%. In this market, you might even be able to negotiate 2%. All they're really doing is bringing someone to your door.

Posted by: Kate at October 10, 2009 9:58 AM in response to FSBO Ground Rules

OP-If the floor is already finished in a natural color and you're only looking to improve not change... you need to "screen" the floor then apply your finish/sealer.

Sanding is a different process and Id call the pros for that.

good luck.

Posted by: jack slade at October 10, 2009 5:51 PM in response to Sanding and Refinishing Floors

We sold our place FSBO (this was 2 years ago, so a slightly different market). I would recommend going it on your own first (if you're okay showing the place, talking to potential buyers, etc.) and then working with a broker if it isn't moving. I found that there were many benefits to NOT having a broker. When buyer's brokers approached, I would tell them I am not paying a commission and that if I change my mind I would get in touch. You may wish to contact brokers BEFORE you sell so you can get their assessment (we told the brokers who came that we plan to FSBO, at least for the first few weeks). As long as you are upfront with them, you can still get some good advice, and possibly, be convinced their services would be worth it to you. But, I would not work with brokers until I've done a few open houses to see how much traffic/interest existed. NYTimes & Craigslist were MORE than enough as far as advertising. Good luck!

Posted by: slope2009 at October 10, 2009 9:36 PM in response to FSBO Ground Rules

Brokers are great if you live out of state and need someone to sell a place for you. I've known a couple of people who did this and were very happy.

Posted by: mopar at October 11, 2009 11:51 AM in response to FSBO Ground Rules

I recommend Verrazano Flooring. They did a fantastic job on my floor a couple of years ago, and they were professional and efficient. I thought the price was very fair - easier than doing it yourself and they will do a professional job.

Posted by: sef125 at October 12, 2009 11:59 AM in response to Sanding and Refinishing Floors