http://www.tax.state.ny.us/pdf/1997/st/st124_797.pdf

This is the link to the NYS capital improvement form.

This form relieves the contractor from the responsibility of collecting the sales tax from you and passing it along to the state. Of course the contractor often objects because he often pockets the money.

A couple of points, the exemption is only for capital improvements and not repairs or decorating. Also the contract work must include both labor AND materials, not only one component or the other.

Posted by: cm at August 29, 2007 9:25 AM in response to Capital Improvement sales tax?

The selection of one framing method or the other is usually decided upon jointly by the developer, architect and construction manager and usually dicteated by the size of the project and market forces.

Poured in place concrete will not be cost effective until you have a minimum number of typical floors over which you can spread the expense of building forms. Usually it's not even considered for buildings of less than 12 floors or greater after which it becomes more economical than steel framing. In this market however their is a shortage of carpenters experienced in building formwork.

Steel framing for smaller buildings is more common, either with concrete plank or poured concrete and metal deck. Remember however that all that steel framing and decking needs to be fireproofed.

Posted by: cm at August 30, 2007 3:44 PM in response to Merits of steel frame construction vs. poured concrete

http://www.lemieuxdoors.com/

You can try these doors from Canada. They are available at many local lumber yards in all types of woods and panel arrangements. It will cost you a fraction of a custom woodworker, particularly if you are going to replace all doors.

Posted by: cm at August 30, 2007 7:20 PM in response to shoddy door work

I just completed a similar project using 2.5 ton Magic Aire ceiling hung blowers (only 14" deep) and very compact Carrier condensors. Best of all each system uses less than 20 amps. It was installed by Energy Engineering, contact was Joe Golden 917-337-7058.

Posted by: cm at September 15, 2007 7:27 AM in response to finding an HVAC contractor

About $15,000 per floor including equipment and about 40' of ductwork per floor. Electric was additional.

Posted by: cm at September 15, 2007 3:48 PM in response to finding an HVAC contractor

We just renewed our coverage on a 12 unit, 4-story walk up at about $225/sf. Interestingly, the insurance company's "Marshall & Swift" guide recommended $166/sf for our Park Slope zip code. We had to push them some for the higher limit.

Posted by: cm at September 21, 2007 12:50 PM in response to Square Foot Construction Costs

When you say the architect "pulled the permit" do you mean the structural work was shown on the architectural drawings that the architect signed/sealed. If so the architect will be responsible. There are certain structural operations that require the filing of a TR-1 form at completion, e.g. high strength bolting, welding, stability, etc. Is your architect is willing to provide those if necessary? If so you you don't need the engineer. The engineer may, and should for liability reasons, advise you that he disclaims responsibility because you did not follow his plans, as professional he can be open to claims even if his plans were not filed.

Posted by: cm at September 22, 2007 4:19 PM in response to Strucural engineer sign-off

You need to have someone (plumber or engineer) do a survey of the existing apartments and determine the number, size and type of radiators. They can then calculate the BTU load.

Posted by: cm at September 26, 2007 1:12 PM in response to how many btu's do i need?

It means the seal between the 2 panes of glass has been compromised. You should have had at least a 5 year warranty on the seal.

Posted by: cm at October 3, 2007 2:19 PM in response to condensation

How is the room temperature? If the unit is oversized it may not cycle enough to remove the moisture.

Posted by: cm at October 6, 2007 1:39 PM in response to Mitsubishi Split A/C

Those is ugly stairs.

Posted by: guest at December 5, 2007 1:17 PM in response to Staircase Help!

no 1:17, you be ugly, not stairs.

Posted by: guest at December 5, 2007 1:31 PM in response to Staircase Help!

Easy people, helpful comments only please.

Thanks "cm" … I'll give them a call.

By way of explanation, this is for a cellar staircase in a below grade unfinished basement so we're not necessarily going for style points here, just open tread and functional.

Posted by: Mr Joist at December 5, 2007 1:54 PM in response to Staircase Help!

I would think any competent iron worker in Brooklyn could fabricate this staircase. Simple brackets could be designed to fasten the wood treads to the metal in a visually pleasing manner. The railing looks easy enough. Just ask for cold rolled steel and not their common stock, hot extruded crap. Cold rolled has clean crisp square edges.

Posted by: guest at December 5, 2007 3:12 PM in response to Staircase Help!

the kind of staircase pictured is pretty pricey, even for any ol' iron worker in brooklyn.

Posted by: guest at December 5, 2007 5:32 PM in response to Staircase Help!

do a search for "metal stringers"
or you could look at modular stair kits, but they have a different look

Posted by: guest at December 7, 2007 12:19 PM in response to Staircase Help!