For what it's worth, our coop was in a similar position a few years ago and our oil dealer suggested using a "Fuel Watchman" brand timer in lieu of replacing the Heat-Timer. The cost was similar. We've realized oil savings of 10-15% with the new device after accounting for degree-days.

Posted by: cm at October 8, 2009 10:44 AM in response to Used Heat-Timers?

We have a 12 unit self managed building and the coop's attorney represents us at each closing. The coop's attorney prepares the new stock certificate, proprietary lease and consent to transfer, each of which is signed by an officer of the corporation. If there is financing involved an officer signs the standard recognition agreement as well. The seller pays the coop's legal fees associated with the transaction at the closing.

Posted by: cm at October 6, 2009 2:58 PM in response to Closing Without a Managing Agent

You can try Wirecrafters. They have local dealers.

http://www.wirecrafters.com/

Posted by: cm at October 6, 2009 8:32 AM in response to Basement Storage Units

Landmarks didn't go that soft. The house has an outstanding violation for installing non-complying aluminum windows in 2002.
http://archive.citylaw.org/lpc/permit/2006/026641.pdf

Posted by: cm at September 30, 2009 3:57 PM in response to House of the Day: 233 Garfield Place

Castle Closets - ask for Brian. Often recommended on this site.
http://www.castlecloset.com/

Posted by: cm at August 11, 2009 11:21 AM in response to Closet Design

Main problem is dividing up the common interest (condo)or the shares (coop) - if you make it 50/50 your setting up a stalemate situation. If you make one unit bigger than the other, the smaller unit owner is perpetually at the mercy of the larger. Both are a hard sell.

Posted by: cm at July 11, 2009 3:56 PM in response to Brownstone Conversion To Co-op

Try Joe Horvath of Horvath Contracting, he's perfect for this kind of work and is on a job in Manhattan now. 917-731-5126.

Posted by: cm at July 8, 2009 12:55 PM in response to Mason in Manhattan?

I'd like to second that for Adam. He just helped us on the refi of a high $ conforming 30 year fixed coop loan at 4.875% and no points and likewise we were able to keep our very favorable Chase HELOC in place. He took care of everything; he even came to us for the closing.

Posted by: cm at May 14, 2009 8:51 AM in response to Refi - good experience

I second what Violet said. We gave Con Ed a basement key over 10 years ago and the problem was solved. It's hard to believe they never lost it!

Posted by: cm at May 11, 2009 1:20 PM in response to ConEd meter access

Winthrop, if you do have control of 3 of the seats you can always vote to expand the number of seats in order to increase the amount of shareholder participation.

Posted by: cm at May 6, 2009 10:43 AM in response to Ah, Coop Board Politics

Obviously you have to chack the corporations by-laws but typically the Sponsor cannot control the Board after 5 years regardless of the percentage of units sold. Therefore he or his representatives (i.e. employees) could not hold more than 2 seats of a 5 member board. However, the Sponsor has the absolute right to vote his share for any other qualified person so he can still exert influence if he finds sympathtic qualified nominees.

Posted by: cm at May 6, 2009 9:06 AM in response to Ah, Coop Board Politics

I second what "broker" says. The frames on my Trimlines are narrower than on my Marvins.

Posted by: cm at April 28, 2009 3:59 PM in response to Trimline window experiences?

About 2 years ago I had 6 Trimline wood windows installed in the rear of my apartment and 3 Marvins in front to address landmark requirements. The Marvins were about twice the price, $1,200 each vs. about $600. The Marvins were installed by E-Z Tilt and the Trimlines by LWP. I was very satisfied with both companies. No question the Marvins are a heavier duty product but the Trimlines have performed perfectly well too. Both are double hungs with separate screens. Both tilt in for cleaning.

Posted by: cm at April 28, 2009 10:36 AM in response to Trimline window experiences?

This is more than likely a 2 pipe steam radiator. After the heating season have a plumber come in and replace the valve with an adjustable thermostatic one and replace the steam trap while he's in there. Not a big job.

Posted by: cm at April 23, 2009 9:17 AM in response to Radiator Question (Help!)

I'd go with the one you have more confidence in because Hartco parquet is not really made to be sanded. The wear layer of wood is very thin to begin with. Whomever does it has to have very light touch and even then, it's likely to be very flimsy afterwards. Put on an extra layer of poly because you won't be able to do it a second time.

Posted by: cm at April 21, 2009 9:02 AM in response to Parquet floor refinishing

Eman, the problem is that the protruding pipe is not usually a nipple - it's actually a radius bend in a pipe nailed to the joist above.

Posted by: cm at February 9, 2009 5:30 PM in response to Cutting, Threading, Hanging Nubs

If the coop section has no commercial space it's exempt from filing the RPIE forms altogether.

Posted by: cm at January 30, 2009 8:30 AM in response to Taxes on a Con-OP

La Villa on 5th is always good for kids and nicer than Two Boots.

Posted by: cm at January 7, 2009 6:08 PM in response to need kid frndly, restaurant

Try Lebanon oak:

http://www.lebanonoak.com/

Posted by: cm at January 6, 2009 10:22 AM in response to Parquet wood flooring

You can try blainewindow.com , they have just about type of replacment window hardware

Posted by: cm at November 29, 2008 10:15 PM in response to casement window winders

Try this, go to a plumbing supply and pick up a "1/8 inch steel street elbow" and a straight radiator vent (not the angle type). Wrap the end of the elbow with teflon tape and screw it in. The threads are coarser than those on the vent and sometimes will catch when the valve threads won't. Then screw the straight vent into the elbow.

Posted by: cm at November 21, 2008 10:55 AM in response to Steam Heat Radiator Air Vent issue

You can try medicine cabinets made by Maax. Check the website:

http://www.maax.com/en/

I know Park Slope Plumbing Supply carries them. A 36" unit will run you less than $500.

Posted by: cm at September 6, 2008 8:57 PM in response to location for cheap recessed mirrors

Steve, did you use CalcStar as well?

Posted by: cm at August 25, 2008 9:06 PM in response to Ending with Ignurance

http://www.archgrille.com/architects.php

not art, just grilles

Posted by: cm at July 24, 2008 6:58 PM in response to metal worker

I recently had an interior wood stair installed by NE&WS of Maspeth. In addtion to the wood shop they have a metal shop as well and do a lot of wood/metal combination stairs. The web site has an extensive gallery of completed projects but they will fabricate in any style.

http://www.neandws.com/

Posted by: cm at December 5, 2007 12:20 PM in response to Staircase Help!

It was part of a much larger renovation which I gc'd myself so it took some time. No reason it couldn't be done in 2 or 3 weeks max or so if everything was coordinated. I would recommend my plumber and tile/stone person without hesitation:

ABR Plumbing from Borough Park:
Robert Brofsky 212-989-5900

Rion Tile & Stone:
Takis Bodunas 973-812-0117

Posted by: cm at November 29, 2007 4:31 PM in response to Bath Reno #7: Traditional in Park Slope

Cabinets were made by Craftine Cabinet.

www.craftlinecabinet.com

Posted by: cm at November 29, 2007 3:17 PM in response to Bath Reno #7: Traditional in Park Slope

Actual owner here.

To answer a couple of the questions,overall room size is 12'-6 x 5'.

Tub is a 60" Kohler Portrait Whirpool.

Countertop is a spanish marble, negro marquina is one of the common names.

Posted by: cm at November 29, 2007 11:56 AM in response to Bath Reno #7: Traditional in Park Slope

How is the room temperature? If the unit is oversized it may not cycle enough to remove the moisture.

Posted by: cm at October 6, 2007 1:39 PM in response to Mitsubishi Split A/C

It means the seal between the 2 panes of glass has been compromised. You should have had at least a 5 year warranty on the seal.

Posted by: cm at October 3, 2007 2:19 PM in response to condensation

You need to have someone (plumber or engineer) do a survey of the existing apartments and determine the number, size and type of radiators. They can then calculate the BTU load.

Posted by: cm at September 26, 2007 1:12 PM in response to how many btu's do i need?

When you say the architect "pulled the permit" do you mean the structural work was shown on the architectural drawings that the architect signed/sealed. If so the architect will be responsible. There are certain structural operations that require the filing of a TR-1 form at completion, e.g. high strength bolting, welding, stability, etc. Is your architect is willing to provide those if necessary? If so you you don't need the engineer. The engineer may, and should for liability reasons, advise you that he disclaims responsibility because you did not follow his plans, as professional he can be open to claims even if his plans were not filed.

Posted by: cm at September 22, 2007 4:19 PM in response to Strucural engineer sign-off

We just renewed our coverage on a 12 unit, 4-story walk up at about $225/sf. Interestingly, the insurance company's "Marshall & Swift" guide recommended $166/sf for our Park Slope zip code. We had to push them some for the higher limit.

Posted by: cm at September 21, 2007 12:50 PM in response to Square Foot Construction Costs

About $15,000 per floor including equipment and about 40' of ductwork per floor. Electric was additional.

Posted by: cm at September 15, 2007 3:48 PM in response to finding an HVAC contractor

I just completed a similar project using 2.5 ton Magic Aire ceiling hung blowers (only 14" deep) and very compact Carrier condensors. Best of all each system uses less than 20 amps. It was installed by Energy Engineering, contact was Joe Golden 917-337-7058.

Posted by: cm at September 15, 2007 7:27 AM in response to finding an HVAC contractor

http://www.lemieuxdoors.com/

You can try these doors from Canada. They are available at many local lumber yards in all types of woods and panel arrangements. It will cost you a fraction of a custom woodworker, particularly if you are going to replace all doors.

Posted by: cm at August 30, 2007 7:20 PM in response to shoddy door work

The selection of one framing method or the other is usually decided upon jointly by the developer, architect and construction manager and usually dicteated by the size of the project and market forces.

Poured in place concrete will not be cost effective until you have a minimum number of typical floors over which you can spread the expense of building forms. Usually it's not even considered for buildings of less than 12 floors or greater after which it becomes more economical than steel framing. In this market however their is a shortage of carpenters experienced in building formwork.

Steel framing for smaller buildings is more common, either with concrete plank or poured concrete and metal deck. Remember however that all that steel framing and decking needs to be fireproofed.

Posted by: cm at August 30, 2007 3:44 PM in response to Merits of steel frame construction vs. poured concrete

http://www.tax.state.ny.us/pdf/1997/st/st124_797.pdf

This is the link to the NYS capital improvement form.

This form relieves the contractor from the responsibility of collecting the sales tax from you and passing it along to the state. Of course the contractor often objects because he often pockets the money.

A couple of points, the exemption is only for capital improvements and not repairs or decorating. Also the contract work must include both labor AND materials, not only one component or the other.

Posted by: cm at August 29, 2007 9:25 AM in response to Capital Improvement sales tax?

Heat Timer is old technology. Tekmar is the new way to control a heating system. http://www.tekmarcontrols.com/consumer.html

Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 8, 2009 11:04 PM in response to Used Heat-Timers?

And a new unit should save you about $1,000 compared to a Heat-Timer.

Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 9, 2009 7:52 AM in response to Used Heat-Timers?

pronto gas heating supply on chyrstie and rivington in manhattan will sell you a rebuilt board if you bring in your old one

Posted by: eman1234 at October 10, 2009 3:17 PM in response to Used Heat-Timers?

http://classyclosets.com/franchise/denverboulder

How was it overpriced? Different companies vary with prices and even the services they offer. Sometimes those who offer expensive service are the ones that have expertise on the field. You should also ask for some samples on their work and customer reviews so that you'll be able to choose from your prospect companies. It is much better if they offer warranty because you'll get what your money is worth.

Posted by: jollivee at October 26, 2009 1:45 AM in response to Closet Design