More than that, I'm thinking--if I were doing that much work I would want to do windows and insulate as well. Who knows what warping floors are about, but there could be structural work as well.

Posted by: bugleg at December 10, 2007 7:42 PM in response to Victorian home renovation/restoration

Check the electrical boxes for drafts--it's possible to remove the device and shoot foam behind the boxes.

Posted by: bugleg at December 17, 2007 7:41 PM in response to Preventing heat loss

I agree with Bob--big time. Run, don't walk. If someone has gutted the finishes but not touched mechanicals that are at the end of their useful life, the quality of the 'gut reno' is dubious, at best.

Find a better building.

Posted by: bugleg at January 19, 2008 5:05 PM in response to Pre-contract inspection revealed several issues- what would you do?

Ikea is a consistant PITA, and only worth the low price if you can value your time at nothing.

Posted by: bugleg at January 19, 2008 5:10 PM in response to Stupid Ikea Cabinets

Thanks for the rec, Master Plumber. That looks like a nice unit.

However, I can't get over how these filter companies get away selling ~$300 filters with PVC fittings and tubing. I suppose I should not complaint too much since all the filters I've seen (and it looks like this one as well) have threaded ports so you can replace the plastic elbows with something that is not begging to be broken under the sink.

Even so, some stainless lines with an assortment of adapters and a 3/8" T that connects to the shutoff is a much better arrangement, and it is surprising someone doesn't sell them that way.

Posted by: bugleg at January 28, 2008 5:40 PM in response to A very good water filter.

If you can't trust your GC, all hope is lost.

The Arch has other clients and obligations, and alot happens (and moves to the next step) without anyone reviewing it. A good contractor is critical to a quality product--and if you can't believe what your contractor tells you, it's going to be rough sledding.

Posted by: bugleg at March 3, 2008 7:53 PM in response to Renovation team - what's most cost-effective without sacrificing quality?

I've done Green Glue assemblies for several clients, and they have been really happy with the results. There are also some mass-enhanced drywall products that incorporate a layer of lead or vinyl to dampen sound. I avoided them because of the material and labor costs.

Posted by: bugleg at May 6, 2008 5:14 PM in response to soundboard vs. furring (firring) stips for ceiling

20k for the rewire is about right, and there no sense in rewiring and not upgrading the panel to 200 amps.

Posted by: bugleg at May 8, 2008 4:07 PM in response to Electrical Wiring Query

20k is a baseline rip-out and replace with something that is good looking and will last another 50+ years. Throw in some frameless shower doors and euro-fixtures, 30k rushes up quickly.

It can certainly be done for less--and you can do less than a ripout and replacement of branch drains and supplies, but I don't think it's a good idea. Those connections are at or nearing the end of their useful life if your bath is original...

Posted by: bugleg at May 30, 2008 5:19 PM in response to cost to renovate bathroom?

Call Robert @ Stone Decor 718-788-8099

He embeds steel in epoxy under his thresholds, making them super strong and less like to crack over time. He can do it out of any stone.

Posted by: bugleg at July 2, 2008 9:10 AM in response to The Threshold

The Brita pitchers don't come close to doing what a filter like this does.

Left hook, I don't have any filters at all. I just install what a client buys.
When they have trouble choosing a product, I help where I can.

Posted by: Master Plvmber at January 29, 2008 8:21 AM in response to A very good water filter.

From the research I've done on the subject, this is bs. If you run your tap water until cold, i.e., flush out standing water, you are not going to typically have any lead problem; a brita-type filter, which I use primarily for chlorine, will eliminate almost everything that's left.

And guess what? The pictured filter doesn't eliminate every lead atom either.

The most compelling reason, at least in Brooklyn, to have a water filter of the kind depicted is that it doesn't need the frequent replacement of a brita filter, and will filter for an entire residence, perhaps.

Plumbers like the filters--gue$$ why?!

Posted by: BrooklynCouch at January 29, 2008 2:27 PM in response to A very good water filter.

What does it cost to install one of these filters under a kitchen sink? Also, is there a separate faucet added for these or does all water end up being filtered, so I would be washing dishes, etc with filtered water too? Thanks

Posted by: ari11210 at February 4, 2008 11:54 AM in response to A very good water filter.

One of three sides of the porch, and not the big one, was enclosed. Could the world be a little more balck-and-white for 4:01?

Posted by: guest at February 28, 2008 6:04 PM in response to Reglazing windows

I would try to utilize both the GC and the architect. I would also take the advice of posters who tell you to keep a watchful eye yourself. You'll know better than anyone if something doesn't seem right. Ask lots of questions, and don't be intimidated. But also try to learn something about the trades and the sequence in which things are done. It's also helpful to learn the nomenclature of construction, and your GC will be impressed if you can correctly point out studs, joists, headers, soil stacks, GFI receptacles and the like. They'll also appreciate you more if you don't bust their %^&*s when things go wrong that aren't their fault. And believe me, problems can arise when ignorant and arrogant homeowners don't understand that their 100 year-old house is almost guaranteed to have some hidden issues that will be discovered along the way.

Have the architect inspect work and the house at crucial stages, like right after demolition is complete and then after any structural changes are made, as well as right after the rough plumbing and electrical are done. Think of the architect as your "quality control" with these issues, which are much easier to deal with when the walls and floors are still opened up.

You absolutely must trust the GC too, but usually they have framers and drywallers and other subs working for them, so it's smart for all parties to know that the architect will be looking at the work. Never cut corners, and always insist that all work is done to building codes. Good luck, and try to enjoy it. I find renovation to be exhilarating...There is even a huge book I could recommend here, great for the lay person and weekend warrior, even pros, really...I love this book, I've given it to friends as a gift in the past.

http://www.amazon.com/Renovation-Complete-Guide-Updated-2nd/dp/0806997753

Posted by: guest at March 4, 2008 4:19 PM in response to Renovation team - what's most cost-effective without sacrificing quality?

There are people known as interior architects who do exactly what you describe. These are individuals who have formal architectural training so they can advise you on the intricacies of walls that can be removed, built, plumbing (re-)routing, etc., but they also have design acumen and cn advise on finishes and fixtures. My good friend Henry Mitchell is one such person. He's currently renovating his own home, so I can't speak for his schedule. You can check out some of his work at hmia.net. He doesn't do alot of before and after photos, but I'm sure he can show you his portfolio.

I have actually hired Henry for a previous project and he did an amazing job. As my work travel schedule is crazy, it was helpful to have some one oversee contractors perform the heavy duty work, and still maintain the delicate design detail. Tell him Chris Montgomery referred you.

Posted by: guest at March 4, 2008 4:34 PM in response to Renovation team - what's most cost-effective without sacrificing quality?

The reason you guys bash contractors is the only thing you are looking for is the low bid guy. There are contractors who are conscientious, care about how you want the work done, have great pride and love for the work they do, and are not just watching their profit margin. The trick is you have to be ready to pay for it. Most of the posters on this site just want to bitch how the unlicensed, uninsured, guy that charged 1/3 of what the other contractor wanted screwed up their job.

Posted by: guest at March 5, 2008 12:52 AM in response to Renovation team - what's most cost-effective without sacrificing quality?

We are coming to the end (hopefully) of a fairly large scale renovation of our over 100 year old three story house. We started with the architect, and were worried about oversight, so signed on for him to be project manager. Looking back, as we really trust our GC, this turned out not to be the best investment, as the architect comes by once in a while to check things out. He has been more helpful in the design phase, and, yes, you will be asked for a lot of design details (paint color, tiles, cabinet, cabinet knobs, stain color . . .) Be prepared for some unpleasant surprises in these old houses, that bit us in the ass, added a lot of cost and time.
I'd be happy to recommend our GC, who was onsite every day, communicates quite well with us, and was open and honest from day one with any problems that came up. His bid was middle range and we thought to be fair. You can email me at mholden0 at lycos dot com

Posted by: guest at March 5, 2008 11:48 AM in response to Renovation team - what's most cost-effective without sacrificing quality?

Ibis, I've only used the 5/8" Quiet Rock and I'm new to using this product, but I must say it worked pretty well.

Posted by: Rick at May 6, 2008 5:16 PM in response to soundboard vs. furring (firring) stips for ceiling

I did some early UL testing for quiet rock, and while I have never actually installed it in a house (we built frames to fit the rock, which makes things go a lot easier, no electrical cutouts, etc.), it seems like a real pain in the butt to install. It has a thin metal plate sandwiched in between layers that makes it real tough to cut. The manufacturer was saying to cut it with a circular saw and a plywood blade! It was also expensive at the time, $80 a sheet. I don't know if the price has gone down since its introduction, but between the price, and the installation headaches, I would want to be judicious in where I use it. But I guess ultimately it's no worse than green glue, and it did significantly decrease sound transmission when installed properly.

Posted by: guest at May 7, 2008 6:52 AM in response to soundboard vs. furring (firring) stips for ceiling