brucef's Profile
- Bruce Freilich
- 1975
- 2005
- Brooklyn
- Cobble Hill
- House
- computers contractor
- Male
- 50+
Author's Posts
April 11, 2008
Parquet floor sanding
Anyone out there have any tips for floor sanding an old parquet floor?
The parquet is full 3/4" thick, and has been sanded only once before. I hate to admit this, but I think I sanded it 20 years ago, but I can't remember.
There are marks from cross cut sanding, (I know, always sand with the grain) but how does one sand parquet that goes both directions?
Does any one out there have a tradesperson who has done a good job on parquet?
I will need to patch a few areas, so i have to take up some material from one area and reinstall it in another. Is there any good trick or getting the parquet strips up intact? They are the old 11"X 2 1/4" strips, nailed to the strip under floor with cut nails. I figure this was a renovation performed between 1890 and 1910, partly because I can tell that the floor was laid before old steam radiators were installed, so it predates central heat.
House dates from 1846, but this floor covers what must have been hearth in front of fireplace, so it cannot be original. Any ideas about my dating?
April 3, 2008
Kitchen Need a Vent?
I am considering relocating a kitchen to center of fllor thru apartment. Does a kitchen by code require a vent to th eoutside or a window?
This 4 family house.
March 1, 2008
Remove Stairs from Parlor floor to Garden?
22' wide brownstone. Four floor 4 family
Can we remove internal flight of stairs going down from parlor floor to garden apartment floor? There is separate entrance under stoop to garden apartment, and rear door from garden apartment to large back yard.
We want to reconfigure parlor floor apartment, including maybe relocating kitchen from rear to middle room, which would move bedroom to rear.
As parlor floor lacks little room, there could be room for closet space if the stairwell and small lannding at top of stairway going down were eliminated.
Have any of you done that and/or gotten it approved?
January 28, 2008
Boiler Room Rules??
I am re-doing our block boiler room in a four family row house. We have been told that we need to install two layers of 5/8" drywall (which we have done), but also cover that with sheet metal.
Our questions are:
1.Do the layers of drywall in the ceiling need to be taped and compounded?
2.Do the sheets of galvanized sheet metal need to be overlapped?
3.Any other tips or rules about the regulations.
4.We are also doing the basement ceiling in single 5/8", do these joints need to be taped?
November 11, 2007
What Trade fixes downspouts?
I need two front of brownstone downspouts replaced. I did them with 3" PVC pipe 20 years ago, but one cracked, and the other is separated from the gutter flange? up at the cornice.
It is 4 stories, a little too high for me on a ladder. One building has a fire escape on the front, complicating access. there also are trees, whic could make a lift trickier.
My question, who does this kind of work? Roofers? Masons? I have copper gutters and downspouts on the back, but should we be afraid they'd be stolen in the front?
Does anyone out there know who does this, or recommendations?
Thanks,
Bruce
November 5, 2007
Contractor Recommendation for basement ceiling
We are having th eold sheetrock pulled down and hauled away, but we are seeking a reliable person/firm to install 5/8" drywall on the 750sq ft basement ceiling. Only 6' long sheets will fit downstairs, and it will need to be neat and jointed but not pretty. Anyone know someone to call? We could do it ourselves but it would take us forever.
Author's Comments
Your tile job looks fine. You have taken a rectangular space and given it a clean, sharp look.
I do tile work, and you have probably gotten the most bang for your buck. Is it possible to throw more money at it? Sure, but there's no accounting for taste, and for a rental you can't lose with white on white.
Heaven forbid, but if it ever becomes necessary to fix after a strange tenant, make sure you have some tiles from that lot.
You did fine. The other "guests" should post photos of their bathromms to show us how it should be done. We hard workers who try to do the right thing are obviously clueless.
Bruce
Posted by: brucef at March 10, 2008 11:19 PM in response to here are my bathroom reno pics :)
I am considering a similar project, but we have a pitched roof, so we don't have to actually go higher than the present peak.
Do you have a flat roof?
Masonry must be added on both party walls, plus the flues if any must also be extended in masonry or at least multiple wall stainless.
There is demo on the existing, plus new floor and roof joists. If your street has to be blocked for the crane that is another expense for permits.
I would guess that you will run through all the first 100k, but then still have to do interior finishes. So depending on your taste for fancy fixtures, I would go to 125-130.
Posted by: brucef at March 25, 2008 2:00 AM in response to Cost to add top floor addition on brownstone
You are correct. We purchased two entry door handles on EBAY fopr a great price, figuring that there must be some way to adapt them for double handle look.
problem was that they would have ended up too close together, so we had to go with one brass handle on two doors.
Posted by: brucef at March 25, 2008 10:09 PM in response to Entry door sets
I had two paneled doors made up from Spanish Cedar, and they are gorgeous. We had to put 10 coats of oil-based urethane on to get a good luster.
They will need a cleaning and recoating every two years. Sorry, but that's the price of gorgeous.
Jim Illingworth, (some place up-state) made them, and he delivered them down to Brooklyn. This was 5 years ago, i hope he's still around. We had the old doors, we sent him photos and dimensions. I believe he could have made the frame - but we didn't need the frame. We paid 2K, but that was 5 years ago.
If you need more info, you can contact me at bruce(at)jerseydata.net
Posted by: brucef at April 1, 2008 12:41 AM in response to Front doors and type of wood i should buy
We do that work. Are the walls open now?
Snaking wires through an existing old home is rarely economically feasible. We often use directional wireless antenna in these cases. We are certified Microsoft system engineers, so we make networks that ... work.
bruce(at)jerseydata.net
Posted by: brucef at April 1, 2008 12:52 AM in response to Does anyone know a good person for running cable, telephone and computer wire through a house?
I have done tructural work on quite a few older brownstones, and there are various "gotchas".
Probably the wood joists are now permanently banana shaped. Were you to jack one up adjacent to a new support wall, one or both ends will now be too high. This effect is exagerated in your hallway, as it is the shorter arm from the fulcrum.
The other commenters above, notably 3:37 with whom I completely disagree, address primarily the situation of flooring, while ignoring the problem of ceiling.
All their solutions require metal stud or lathe to level the ceiling below, which uses height and adds expense.
What I do recommend is the wholesale replacement of all joists with metal beams in new pockets, 16" on center. This supports the new sub floor adequately (assuming hardword flooring above)and makes a flat surface for the ceiling below. Fireproof, available perfectly straight in many sizes and lengths. Un-romantic, but this work can be done by merely competent crews, without requiring precision and judgement, qualities that are rare in NYC to begin with.
I don't think 10K a floor will do it, with demo and materials, 20K is closer.
On the time, quality, dollars continuum, this solution is better on time and quality, worse on cheap.
Bruce
Posted by: brucef at April 2, 2008 1:04 AM in response to Sagging support beams, again
Sorry about those typo's.
The apt is a floor thru, not a fllor thru.
The vent has to go to the outside, not to th eoutside, and This is a 4 family house. (Legal 4 used as a (4))
Posted by: brucef at April 3, 2008 11:18 PM in response to Kitchen Need a Vent?
Premier 24" stainless is great, I have put them in apartments. Lowes has them as in stock item, which means they are much cheaper than elsewhere. Under $800.00.
Only that one model, any other is special order and more expensive.
Posted by: brucef at April 11, 2008 2:21 AM in response to 24 inch stove
I have owned and restored many 1800's houses and commercial structures, and would be glad to share accumulated knowledge of 35+ years as a renovator and building manager.
We are not contractors (we are not fishing for work) as we restore only properties we own, but we would be available to consult or teach an "urban home owners 101".
If you are actually seeking design ideas, an architect is probably a better choice, but if your questions are more along the lines of "Do we need to fix this, or can we live with it", or "What's involved in changing our ..." we should be able to provide guidance and direction.
We normally charge $250.00-300.00 for a 3 hour consultation, or $500.00 if we additionally attend with an experienced tradesman (plumbing/electrical etc).
If interested contact bruceatjerseydata.net.
Posted by: brucef at April 20, 2008 2:00 PM in response to House Tutor for New Homeowners
Responses to Author's Forum Comments
I'd be into this, too--we just moved into an old victorian and feel a bit over our heads! Anyway, post contact info if you're into getting a group to learn/pay together.
Posted by: guest at April 20, 2008 3:10 PM in response to House Tutor for New Homeowners
We upgraded from steam to forced water when we did a gut reno and we're very pleased.
Posted by: guest at April 23, 2008 1:02 PM in response to Steam heat and reno
1:02 How big a place and how much did it cost?
Posted by: guest at April 23, 2008 2:06 PM in response to Steam heat and reno
I generally agree with Master Plumber on his posts but this one I gotta say -- stick with the working, sound, already-there system. The dollars you pour into a replacement won't equal marginal savings between the two. And the green-ness of hot water v. steam is debatable. Save your money.
Posted by: Smokychimp at April 23, 2008 10:45 PM in response to Steam heat and reno
Thanks everyone for the contributions.
The place is 4 stories (no basement). Its 20' X 40. Its configured as an upper triplex and ground floor rental.
The owner told me the steam heat was good after it was sold, so his word is trustworthy.
We are however, opening all the walls already, and it now looks like I'll probably need to buy a new boiler anyway, so its looking more like I should change to hot water. I've been quoted 18-25K to do the job. Does that sound reasonable?
Posted by: hegelian at April 23, 2008 11:54 PM in response to Steam heat and reno
Thanks everyone for the contributions.
The place is 4 stories (no basement). Its 20' X 40. Its configured as an upper triplex and ground floor rental.
The owner told me the steam heat was good after it was sold, so his word is trustworthy.
We are however, opening all the walls already, and it now looks like I'll probably need to buy a new boiler anyway, so its looking more like I should change to hot water. I've been quoted 18-25K to do the job. Does that sound reasonable?
Posted by: hegelian at April 23, 2008 11:56 PM in response to Steam heat and reno
i would switch to hot water no question. your heating bills will go down significantly. ours went down by half and the switch ended up paying for itself in the first year (we spent far less than 20,000 to change though).
Posted by: guest at April 24, 2008 12:16 AM in response to Steam heat and reno
How much did you spend to convert the system?
Did you have a 2 pipe steam or one?
Did you convert your radiators?
How many floors is your place?
I guess I should several more estimates for the job...
Posted by: hegelian at April 24, 2008 10:48 AM in response to Steam heat and reno
Thanks for all the response!! Due to factors beyond my control, I am no longer buying the house I described initially. The new house has the same problem, but only on the scale of one floor. It's a 2 story brick house w/basement, and the top floor has a considerable sag. This has to be fixed; I get dizzy walking on it and the ceiling of the 1st floor looks crooked. I am looking now for any references to contractors who can do this kind of structural work. Also, I plan to move the staircase. Any leads??
( The complete internal demo of both 1st and 2nd floor will be taken care of by a different contractor before this structural work will take place.)
Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 25, 2008 3:20 PM in response to Sagging support beams, again
12:16 must've turned down the 'stat to 60 after switching, there's no way the efficiency of hot water over steam is that drastic.
Steam boilers (which must boil water) top out approx 82% efficiency, hot water (if you get condensing ones, may be 92-96%). Assuming $3000/yr bills on old system, you may save $320/year, so figure the payback on install at 50+ years. So you wouldn't change for cost reasons. Otoh, hot water is more flexible.
Posted by: cmu at April 25, 2008 5:29 PM in response to Steam heat and reno
Sorry if I didn't make myself clear here.
Stairs would remain from garden floor down to cellar, just getting to cellar from parlor floor would require going down outside of stoop, entering under stoop to garden apt hallway, then going down stairs to cellar from that hallway.
Posted by: brucef at March 2, 2008 12:20 AM in response to Remove Stairs from Parlor floor to Garden?