I have a Husky (the red one they have at Home Depot. $300.00 there, I'll sell mine for $150.00.

Nice saw, only problem is noise. All saws are loud, this is higher pitched.

bruce at jerseydata.net

Posted by: brucef at October 7, 2009 10:20 PM in response to ISO: Wet Tile Saw

Double 5/8" sheet rock in multi boiler room, unless you clearance dimension is too little (don't remember what it was), but that triggers requirement for tin over double sheetrock to get long enough time rating.

Posted by: brucef at September 25, 2009 12:40 AM in response to What to Use for Cellar Ceiling?

You originally asked for a reputable remover. I have used Mendy of Asbestway on Washinton Ave. Don't know if it will help but you can say Bruce recommended him.

Posted by: brucef at September 25, 2009 12:19 AM in response to Asbestos That's Not a Ripoff?

About hardwood flooring acclimating...

Printed instructions are assuming new construction in large lots drop shipped from the"sticks". If this flooring came from a local vendor, it has already warmed or cooled from it's factory of origin.

We used to get pallets in from Tennessee in the winter that had been sitting outside and were frozen through and through. They would have to sit in a heated space for a week before the center would thaw. This is primarily what the warnings are about, NOT your situation.

I would be greatly interested in the installation quality. Are they discarding bad boards (and every lot has some) or is it being installed willy nilly. Are they opening a bunch of bundles and mixing them? Are all the bundles from the same lot?

Other issues than the time they sat on your job are far more important. How about do you like the way it looks? It's not to late to change your mind, now's the time to love it or leave it.

To ease your mind have someone who knows construction (not all architects do) do a walk through casually while his guys are working. I can tell in 5 minutes if they are "challenged" or experienced. What you don't want is a laborer doing finish carpentry.

Good Luck

bruce

Posted by: brucef at September 5, 2009 1:11 AM in response to Fire This Contractor?

We have used Sanyo units, both single and multi. We've gotten away from the heat pump models because we have high efficiency gas heat/DHW.

Most important to consider is placement on interior walls. if you have a path for condensate down to basement, this can potentially cool a lrger space from its center, rather than an end.

Posted by: brucef at September 2, 2009 12:05 AM in response to Mr Slim Mitsubishi vs. Fujitsu

New water heater: $1500
* 6 new windows: $6000

These items are up front and personal.

The other two items would be spread over other owners I assume? Not all on you?

There will be a better opportunity in the future if they won't give up the $7500.00. You have shown your sincerity in your offer (less the $7500.00) by paying for an inspection. If they think another purchaser is going to pay all cash without an inspection, they are not serious about selling and in this market you have to move on. That new inspection for the supposed new buyers is going to be different?

With ownership in real property, you need to take a longer time perspective. Your portion of a roof job won't be that much, or it may last a few more years with patching. It took quite some time for the deterioration of the facade, it will take some years to play out the fix.

Jeez, you'd think the broker would cough up part just to avoid losing the sale.

Posted by: brucef at September 1, 2009 11:27 PM in response to Post inspection...advice needed!

Make sure you purchase plenum rated Cat5/6 cable. It costs more, but is required on certain runs for fire resistance. In a drywall wall, it wouldn't be necessary, but basement, dropped ceiling etc yes. better use all plenum to be safe.

Posted by: brucef at August 21, 2009 11:50 PM in response to Data Cables Conduit - DOB?

Labradors are great dogs, but have been bred for many generations to exhibit certain traits. I live in an area where duckhunters leave out at 5:00 AM in their camaflouge? boats in January. The labs can't wait to dive into the icy water and across the meadows to retrieve ducks. An animal with that spirit and energy is what you are considering.

It is unfair to expect a breed bred for activity and vigor to "behave". And outside unaccompanied is no place for a puppy. Dogs are social animals that thrive only with company.

Oh, and did I say that Labs chew everything?

Spend a few sessions at hillside park in Bklyn Heights. Many owners are knowledgeable and you will see first hand the various activity levels.

Remember, you are adopting a new family member, and a child will NOT take care of it, you will. Dogs have only one master. Someone will need to shoulder that burden/joy.

Posted by: brucef at August 3, 2009 1:32 PM in response to Labrador in brownstone

This repair should take 2-3 hours for a patient carpenter or homeowner.

A permanent solution should be 90 degree 1/4" holes in existing door, filled with hard wood dowel of same diameter dipped in glue. When cut off flush, there is a new strong surface for new pilot holes where perfect, not affected by old holes, that may originally have been correctly located, but may have worn to one side.

Posted by: brucef at July 30, 2009 6:55 AM in response to Door Handle Repair - Advice?

I would be glad to consult/bid/recommend.

What has caused the sag/creeking?

The correct answer to that question determines the correct approach of restoration/repair.

Are they out of level so badly that firming them would not be sufficient? Bear in mind that levelled stairs meeting unlevel landings doesn't work.

You can email me at bruce@jerseydata.net.

Bruce

Posted by: brucef at July 26, 2009 1:24 PM in response to Staircase Repair

What needs to be repaired?

Is it slope, pull away from wall, or separations?

Or balusters, molding, trim?

You can email me @ bruce@jerseydata.net so I can make a coherent suggestion.

Normally, it is necessary to diagnose what caused the condition you are trying to remediate, then choosing the best compromise to fix it. It often turns out to be something simple, yet the repairs in an "antique" house can be involved.

Bruce

Posted by: brucef at July 26, 2009 1:15 PM in response to Brownstone staircase repair

The electricians are both correct and limited in vision.

It is a simple exercise to fabricate a mount that will accomodate an expansion bracket, satisfying code with minimal expense. We do this in metal stud mostly, but wood would work also.

Posted by: brucef at July 22, 2009 10:35 PM in response to Question on Medallions

We have been using Sanyo units the last couple years, at the time they were more technically advanced than the Fujitsu, which were more "industrial" bigger, clunkier units. Certainly Fujitsu may have caught up since...

For old house installations, bear in mind the following advantages:

The indoor air handler need not be mounted on an exterior wall. The air handler can be centrally located, let's say an 18K BTU unit to catch an open kitchen, didning, living room that one might think wall wall wall, and think two units. The only catch is that the condensate drip tube mut be plumbed by gravity to the outside or a waste line.

The refrigerant lines may be routed up and over, or for quite a distance, so that is often easier than the condensate.

The oudoor condenser uit may be mounted on iron brackets, and it can be off the ground.

Posted by: brucef at June 30, 2009 8:25 AM in response to Fujitsu ductless air conditoners

Liquid Nails will adhere tighter to the plys tahn the plywood holds itself together,

Why don't you fix the subfloor? Half inch plywood isn't going to fix the condition that damaged the existing, so why use duct tape?

30 years of doing this have taught me it's always easier to do it right, than try to patch over.

Pine floring sounds nice, how thick? DOn't count on the finish floor to give strength the way oak would.

Posted by: brucef at June 18, 2009 11:47 PM in response to Subfloor re-enforcement

I am assuming the "hat channels" mentioned above is what we call metal lathe.

Get the heavier gauge from Kamco, not the flimsy from HD.

Posted by: brucef at June 18, 2009 11:37 PM in response to Sheetrock on brick. Best way?

Eman is spot on.

What is your subfloor? The proper fixing of the subfloor is 70% of getting the finish floor to come out right. Is extensive repairs to sub-floor why the estimate is so high?

What your contractor is saying scares me. Either he or you has a serious lack of knowledge.

Bruce

Posted by: brucef at June 18, 2009 11:24 PM in response to floor instalation

He's still working for us, but Fred Collins (347) 200-7038.

You can say Bruce recommended him.

Posted by: brucef at June 14, 2009 3:52 PM in response to Pocket door repair

If you're still checking your thread (I don't get to check the forum everyday) I have a couple of suggestions.

You can try Rocky at PlumbingWorx. They are on Degraw ST by Van Brunt. He may take pity on you, he can be very helpful.

In all these cases you have to go to these guy's offices. I know about letting your fingers do the walking, but you need to show up at their office. On the phone you are a potential head ache. In person you stand a chance of a hand shake and a partner. Go easy on the fiasco, you basically want a bunch of plumbing work done, which in this economy is a good thing for these guys (dem guys).

Bruce, Jersey Management

Posted by: brucef at May 10, 2009 12:34 AM in response to Riddle Me This (Plumbing Questio

Benson,

The air handler is probably OK, you should check a high efficiency condenser unit as there have been significant advances technologically in the last few years.

Consider the money saved on recharging the existing system as a discount towards the new equipment. You are looking for a higher SEER unit. This will speed up your payback time.

You'll also be treated better by the HVAC contractor, they always prefer doing installs,and you will get the install crew, not the service guys.

Bruce

Posted by: brucef at May 10, 2009 12:25 AM in response to Cost to charge an AC

I urge you to reconsider your desire to retain existing plumbing and tile. Unless there is unfettered access to rear of shower body, any repair will have to be from the front.

Tiles that look firm, over time conceal long term water damage to underlying substrates. Time and expense chasing the intended saving of money will in the medium run be unsatisfying - I speak of 3-5 years. You claim to prefer the pink tile - do it right and replace with pink tile.

Partial upgrade you describe is wishful thinking. Wanting it to be so does not, however, change reality. These surfaces have a lifetime, yours has already lived that long, and any disruption kicks off an irreversible failure of surfaces. No I don't want the job, I am telling you this to save you from learning the hard way.

Posted by: brucef at May 4, 2009 10:56 PM in response to Updating 1950s bathroom

I have these senior moments quite often, so I can't recall the name of a half ladder/ half stair that is quite steep with handrails. Maybe some of you out there know.

Plan on steel supports that span either adjacent or opposite masonry walls. A&J Iron does this all the time. Then you can lay in wood squares into a grid of steel- voila.

Reframing a roof opening slightly to accomodate a more convenient hatch might pass coop muster. Especially if it is viewed as an improvement.

Good luck.

Posted by: brucef at April 14, 2009 2:09 AM in response to Building a Roof Deck

Call Rocko at Plumbingwork (x?) on Degraw between Columbia and Van Brunt. Or even consider going to him in person. He mostly does sub work, so his prices don't reflect retail. Just remember to speak Brooklynese.

Posted by: brucef at April 6, 2009 11:00 PM in response to Replace street supply water pipe

Call Tony at A&J iron, they are across from Monte's Restaurant.

Tony will come out, give you a price on the spot, but most importantly, give you ideas and insight that are invaluable. You can tell him Bruce from Kane St recommended him.

Incidentally, he erected two decks with stairs from parlor floors to gardens. And reconfigured fire escape to make it work.

Posted by: brucef at April 6, 2009 10:54 PM in response to Iron Deck Recommendations

See my previous posts in this regard.

Banana'd joists won't straighten no matter what persuasion you try. It seems logical but it won't work.

Assuming you have verified that there is no longer movement, sistering is probably your best bet. Disregard comment above re: blaming previous removal of support wall. This is rarely if ever the case, Brooklyn brownstones have no end of stupid simple reasons for getting crooked without scapegoats.

You can contact me off line bruce at jerseydata.net.

Posted by: brucef at April 1, 2009 11:46 PM in response to Solutions uneven floors?

Brownstones sag for simple reasons.

If your question is - is it stable or getting worse, that gets one answer.

If your question is what will it take to correct, that's a different answer.

I'm not a structural engineer, but I have jacked many old houses, last week for instance.

I would make myself available for a site visit locally $200.00. In the event I advised you, I would feel conflicted regarding bidding for the job.

bruceatjerseydata.net

Posted by: brucef at March 30, 2009 10:58 PM in response to Need Structural Engineer!

I have recently finished a project during which we carefully removed and re-installed parquet. We have a fair quantity of extra material, but don't kinow if vintage is correct, maybe 1900.

Bruce
bruceatjerseydata.net

Posted by: brucef at March 26, 2009 11:23 PM in response to Restoring and replacing floors

It is helpful to determine where on your main waste line the drain from the back yard joins. This assumes that your "drain" isn't a glorified "french drain"

If so you have a 2nd shot of clearing the waste line up from the basement, as opposed to down from the back yard.

Mostly try cleaning the drain by hand as above.

Posted by: brucef at March 10, 2009 2:33 AM in response to Backyard drainage

I have always been a proponent of oil fired hot water heaters. You already have oil and flues in the boiler room. flue capacity is a necesary calculation by sq in/BTU, so they may be OK to vent with existing oil fired boiler.

The advantage of oil fired hot water heaters is there unbelievable recovery rate. Storage based systems (gas or boiler based) are adequate most of the time, but can get slaughtered during peak usage (before work, at night).

The ability in a pinch to make new hot water quickly if needed, is a deal maker. I have found that oil companies do not charge as much for service contracts at the same site, and it is a pleasure to shut down cold the big boiler.

Posted by: brucef at March 10, 2009 2:29 AM in response to Oil vs Gas as 2nd stage

Aaron is on the right track.

Although you are doing gut renovation, duct work takes space, which is or should be at a premium.

Consider Sanyo slimline multizone units. You can drive up to 4 air handlers from one compressor. By clever planning regarding which living areas are likely to be used at alternate times, a 31K BTU compressor can drive more than 31K of air handlers, as they will not simultaneously call for cool. For instance you may be able to drive four twelves, or an eighteen and three nines.

Because you have walls open, air handlers do not have to be on external walls, and can often be mounted up above a closet, or other out of the location. The length on the line sets has some limits on length, but you can locate the compressors up on brackets or roof or ??

You'll need condensate drains, but for you, that's easy.

Price for the units will exceed cost of big compressor and ductwork, but you will save on energy from day one. It's a better mousetrap. Central air is clumsy unless it is a large house all of which gets conditioned. Air from one part of a centrally cooled house goes anywhere once it has returned. This evens out the home, eliminating the economy of not cooling a section that will not be used.

Also consider Unico. They are pricey, and hard to zone, but they will save you the footage. They do make high SEER and heat pump units.

I have been doing computer work for an HVAC contractor, and have learned more than I ever thought I would know about air conditioning.

Bruce

Posted by: brucef at March 5, 2009 11:17 PM in response to how many zones for central A/C?

Vinca,

If you need re-cycled parquet, we have some leftover - all cleaned.

bruce at jerseydata.net

Posted by: brucef at February 26, 2009 12:34 AM in response to reusing old wood parquet

Go for it.

We just removed piece by piece 2.5 rooms of original parquet and walnut inlay border.

We reinstalled 55 squares of field and continued the border. You can't tell where the graft is. The extension was 11 squares wide and 5 squares longer. We did discard quite a bit of material because we were picky. Some of it had been scraped before, but much was full thickness - 3/4".

Lay out the center of your job first, then divide your install in quarters, as the width will vary from the length, or at least ours did. Think of it as every four squares form a matching square. Re-use the splines, to save from having to rip new ones. The strips have three grooves and one tongue, so you need to create tongues -hence the splines.

You contact me if you need help bruce at jerseydata.net

Posted by: brucef at February 26, 2009 12:31 AM in response to reusing old wood parquet

To jump on eman's reco, he is basically correct.

To seek the highest efficiency, and a green solution, Unico makes a heat pump based high velocity system. It will throw heat down to an outside temp of 45? Its ability decreases with outside temp, but during the shoulder seasons you can heat inexpensively.

It adds only somewhat to the air handler and compressor, which is only part once you are installing the "spagetti".

Posted by: brucef at February 23, 2009 11:44 PM in response to Heating, A/C Options

Do you have Oil heat?

An oil fired hot water heater has a recovery rate that blows away a gas heater.

A long shower will drain any amaount of stored hot water, you have to be able to make it as fast as it is used. Obviously an attempt should be made to throttle back the flow at the offending shower.

We should try to minimize our global foot print, but the oil fired hot water heater solves the problem. I have a shore house, and when 10 people come back to take showers...

Posted by: brucef at February 23, 2009 11:19 PM in response to Water Heater Size

My day job is certified system engineer, and I could fix you up.

Above posters, by and large, are correct.

Bruce Freilich, pres. MCSE
Jersey Data Management
We Listen, We Think, We Build
bruce@jerseydata.net
voice 609-965-4899
cell 609-540-3175

Posted by: brucef at February 21, 2009 4:07 AM in response to cat 5 connections

We need radiators for a renovation we are doing. bruce@jerseydata.net. We can pickup.

Posted by: brucef at February 21, 2009 3:50 AM in response to Antique Radiators

This suggestion is a long shot, but hear me out.

I have in the past worked with various police officials, much further South in Jersey.

It would cost you nothing to visit the chief of the local department, or a detective there (in Moonachie), no appointment. There is no way of anticipating what you would discover or find out, but they can sometimes be sympathetic or provide tangentially helpful information. It is a civil matter, not probably criminal, but I have seen stranger things than a detective paying a recalitrant debtor a visit and springing free a partial payment.

Posted by: brucef at February 21, 2009 3:43 AM in response to Paid Deposit, No Work Done, Now?

I have done exactly what you propose, though it was years ago.

You cannot combine units. If the house is a legal 4, for instance, then your co-owner can pick one apartment (one of the RC's). You would do the same, but the form of ownership is critical. I forget if it tenants in common or joint tenants.

Though you are supposed to prevail eventually, it will take multiple years. Expect initial rulings against you from HPD, but you have to appeal multiple times.

Obviously discovering that a tenant owns a dwelling elsewhere is an easier route to dislodge etc.

Even when you win, they will be given some time more to (all the sudden) find another place. This is when some thousands can expedite (because you won the appeal).

You have to charade in court - look poor but neat. Justice is blind, but every little bit helps.

Richard Bush on Court St. used to do these.

Posted by: brucef at February 12, 2009 11:17 PM in response to Rent Controlled Tenants

A new brownstone would not have the required handicap access. There are work-arounds for this, like the curved metal track lifts you sometimes see, but approval for a present day brownstone would be a problem.

Posted by: brucef at February 9, 2009 11:42 PM in response to Cost to Build a New Brownstone

More important question than finding stair repair contractor, is understanding what is causing your problem.

Structural problems, and not necessarily new or dangerous ones, but older and fairly stable settlement, is probably the cause. Without a clear answer to why your treads are separating from wall, you will never make satisfactory repairs. Do not assume that a stair repair company is deceiptful in not telling you this, it is just beyond their grasp.

Old houses aren't straight. Restoring old homes is a compromise. the pursuit of "plumb" or level is illusory.
Every repar has an equal and opposite reaction.

I have pasted below my answewr to an earlier thread, last week I think.

"There are two common causes of your problem as identified in the photo.

The first correct answer that you will mostly likely hear, is that the wedges have fallen out from behind the treads and risers. "We need to open the back and replace those wedges"

Is this house a little older - maybe 1860's?

Well the real question is, why did the wedges fall out? It looks as if the tread is pulled out a little from the wall stringer. What would cause that? What will it take to shove it back in? How cheap can we patch it?

Let me guess, the floor at the landing has sagged a little. The landing is sloped away from the masonry wall. The outside stringer is down. Well that explains the gap, but know what do we do?

The stringers may be hand cut and chiseled, common practices 1850's thru 1880's. They knew they were going to tighten and straighten the treads and risers to the top and front of the cuts using wedges. But now we're swimming in these rough slots.

Stickey wicket, if we figure out some way to lift stringer back to where it once was, it will be too high at the landing now. Unless we decide to level the hallway. But now the landing is too high where it meets the rooms up stairs.

Correct, professional repairs are painful, and not cheap. But at least I've tried to steer you in the right direction, so you have a chance to evaluate the quick fix ideas that inexperienced carpenters may come up with. Done right, this stair case would be solid, solid, solid."

bruce@jerseydata.net

Posted by: brucef at February 8, 2009 9:55 PM in response to Staircase repair?

There are two common causes of your problem as identified in the photo.

The first correct answer that you will mostly likely hear, is that the wedges have fallen out from behind the treads and risers. "We need to open the back and replace those wedges"

Is this house a little older - maybe 1860's?

Well the real question is, why did the wedges fall out? It looks as if the tread is pulled out a little from the wall stringer. What would cause that? What will it take to shove it back in? How cheap can we patch it?

Let me guess, the floor at the landing has sagged a little. The landing is sloped away from the masonry wall. The outside stringer is down. Well that explains the gap, but know what do we do?

The stringers may be hand cut and chiseled, common practices 1850's thru 1880's. They knew they were going to tighten and straighten the treads and risers to the top and front of the cuts using wedges. But now we're swimming in these rough slots.

Stickey wicket, if we figure out some way to lift stringer back to where it once was, it will be too high at the landing now. Unless we decide to level the hallway. But now the landing is too high where it meets the rooms up stairs.

Correct, professional repairs are painful, and not cheap. But at least I've tried to steer you in the right direction, so you have a chance to evaluate the quick fix ideas that inexperienced carpenters may come up with. Done right, this stair case would be solid, solid, solid.

bruce

Posted by: brucef at February 4, 2009 1:09 AM in response to Carpenter to fix the stairs

You said, "Wouldn't a contractor be able to tell you how to hang the doors or at least how many and what style of hinges you need?"

This is the crux of the matter. I am an owner and builder, so I already have two opinons. Your assumption regarding what a contractor can tell you is both uninformed and oblivious to human nature.

Unlike certain specific licensed trades - plumbing, electrical etc. there is no one way to hang an old door. Old doors may easily be heavier than Home Depot blanks. Contractors today do not know how to hang a door. This is because they only purchase "pre-hung" assemblies, that "float" in a rough opening - the framing. Actually hanging an old door means building a frame that is plumb, and to within an eighth inch of the right size once jambs are installed.

Your contractor du jour may or may not be able to complete this task, but he probably hasn't done one in some time. And the laborer who will actually do the work 9 times out of 10 doesn't know. With each wave of immigrant carpenters, there are experienced hands in the first wave, but they become pricey, and hard to find.

The proper hinges are more expensive, and why would a contractor take the time to search them out. He probably doesn't know they exist.

A project like yours will have hundreds of situations just like this. They won't know or care, but more importantly, you don't know either. So butchered situations will reside behind other shoddy surfaces.

When they are gone things won't work two months later. When I build something, I plan on it working for 40 years. But it takes me forever and costs too much.

Without someone on your side who knows the difference, (with profit motive aligned with your interests), trusting a contractor is unlikely to end happily.

Let's give him the benefit of the doubt, and say he's giving it an honest try. He can't be everywhere, and redoing botched work is expensive and time consuming. Human nature sooner or later leads to one small compromise, then it's a slippery slope from there.

Do you need an architect? What you need is someone who knows this stuff cold, and is unflinchingly thorough. That can be a father-in-law, it can be a ??? In the absence of strong construction experience, you would be foolhardy to not get a hired gun (spell architect).

I hope my example has tipped you off to the 100 ways many tasks can be done on a construction site, but you will only be happy with two or three. Those aren't odds you should be playing with. It isn't rocket science, but it requires knowledge and (what did my father call it...) character.

Good luck, but talk to some of the fellows who post asnwers here that you like.

Bruce

PS Hang out in Scott's office for 5 minutes. If you thought he's got the patience or temperament to guide you, those five minutes will be an eye opener. Getting something unusual OK'ed is his specialty. He wouldn't know a construction detail if it bit him.

Posted by: brucef at February 4, 2009 12:47 AM in response to The Need for Construction Plans?

Call Anthony at A&J Iron, they are across from Monte's.

As I understand (a neighbor did this) part of the problem is gettingthe replacement girder into the house. This is done by excavating a trench in front yard or putting through garden window then big hole in garden floor floor.

New steel needs to be supported properly by cement filled steel columns with adequate footings (36" deep, 12"X12")a few years back.

Is existing wood? joist shot or merely inadequately supported?
Contact me offline at bruceatjerseydata.net

Posted by: brucef at January 31, 2009 5:47 PM in response to Beam Replacement

Vinca,

Another good guess, but I have excavated the cesspool in the back yard, and there was no evidence of wastelines. Besides, that run would be real long, from the front of house to back yard.

Question is, what did rooming houses look like? Did roomers maybe expect to go upstairs to a single toilet?

Posted by: brucef at January 14, 2009 12:20 AM in response to History of Buildings Layout?

I understand that if you are 3 family (multifamily) that you will need to end up with 5/8" sheetrock with joints taped.

There can be no exposed combustible surfaces. Unless you intended a mechanicals clean-up with the elimination of now-unused pipes etc, it doesn't seem worth it.

Is the basement the location of central heat? Is it below grade? It shouldn't be so cold that it would suck heat from the heated garden apt?

Posted by: brucef at January 14, 2009 12:09 AM in response to Insulating Basement Ceiling

I am a secret subsidizer.

I enjoyed this entire thread, and am summoning the courage? to significantly raise rents ($300.00) for (3) long time tenants. There was a fuss two years ago when I went from $1200.00 to $1500.00. But market should be 1800-2200 in CH West. All leases expire this summer, and I planned to renovate units to market rate. These three units are mainly, partly , and not really improved.

Posted by: brucef at January 12, 2009 10:42 PM in response to Raising Rent, Followup

jfss, I'm talking about a full blown 4" cast iron waste stack, that connects into the main 5" waste line going out to the street.

Bruce

Posted by: brucef at January 12, 2009 10:36 PM in response to History of Buildings Layout?

To an architect in Brooklyn, that's a good guess, but we have a peaked roof front and back and the surrounding (4)houses are intact in terms of rooflines, except for one that must have had a fire, because it now has a flat roof.

Mopar, sorry if my desription was unclear. This a 22' wide attached brick circa 1842, and the waste pipe I am referring runs up the front hallway maybe 10' back from the front door, half in the wall. i haven't yet found any t's in it, but i am guessing they will turn out to be in the floors above, probably a lead bend with a side takeoff vent or sink drain. On the top floor, the hallway is truncated with a not original wall that adds the top floor front of hallway to the top apartment. The layout in the apt. always puzzled me in that there are two closets side by side in that hallway space, before the small front one window room.

Posted by: brucef at January 12, 2009 10:23 PM in response to History of Buildings Layout?

I've done this work a few times, and I've had contractors mess it royally.

I can tell you what you don't want. That's a bunch of settlement during and immediately following the reinforcement.

What competent contractors should be saying (unless house is gutted now) is they intend to excavate 36" footings and use cement filled columns. They also plan to shore and lift the present support system. I use 30 ton jacks.

Then the new columns are set, then a hole through garden apt or front masonry to get the i-beam in (it's too long to carry in).

It's too hard to get the height of columns perfect, but sturdy metal shims can fine tune the lowering onto the new support.

good luck!

Posted by: brucef at January 12, 2009 3:16 AM in response to Basement support replacement

Hilti is the way to go. It will save you time, and you will use it all the time.

Sometime sthe Hilti rep at Home Depot runs specials. He wears a different uniform, or used to.

Posted by: brucef at January 12, 2009 2:52 AM in response to Advice: which laser level 2 buy?

This flooring is face nailed? Are your squares made up of (6)strips one direction, next square 6 strips the other way?

Are you sure? Tongue and groove has been around for a long time, both for strength but also to avoid face nailing eyesores.

Posted by: brucef at January 5, 2009 10:38 AM in response to Parquet wood flooring

Dam Fool

Posted by: OldManSam at September 8, 2009 2:11 AM in response to Fire This Contractor?

A data cable is any media that allows baseband transmissions (binary 1,0's) from a transmitter to a receiver.

Posted by: stephenmorphey at September 9, 2009 6:56 AM in response to Data Cables Conduit - DOB?

Mopar, may as well write your will because according to some people you're already dead, you just don't know it.

I assume the insulation you have is asbestos cement, if you're having trouble getting it off. Probably on an elbow, right? You CAN get it off. You will need to spray it with water and a dilute solution of dishwasing soap. Several times. The soap helps it penetrate. You then hit it with a hammer and chisel. As you open a gap, keep spraying. Often you can break it into two halves and pull it off. If there's anything left, you go after it with a wire brush or scraper.

Hell, 5"? I'd do it for a bottle of wine, lol.

Alternately, you could simply encapsulate it. You could wrap it around with rubberized insulating tape and leave it alone. There's nothing wrong with that either.

More problematic is the dirt floor. Have you had the dirt tested or are you merely theorizing here? Assuming it is freaking you out, you would wet it and remove the top layer of dirt, let's say 1/4", with a shovel.

Here also encapsulation may be a better choice. You could add a cheap floor covering. You could add another inch of dirt. You could cover with plastic sheeting and add dirt.

Or you could not worry about it. Any asbestos fibers that are contaminated with dirt will be heavier than air and will not float around.

There are trace amounts of asbestos everywhere. Asbestos is a natural material that outcrops the earth in any number of places. If you don't smoke you have considerably less risk, and in any case the risk is very low for a single abatement especially if you wear the proper mask. I think I sent you a link a while ago to mcmaster.com and to the right masks. Standard dirt and dust masks are not rated for asbestos.

eman, I know you do boilers and so are concerned, but you should examine the asbestos removal industry before calling homeowners greedy. Asbestos lawyers have become some of the richest people in the country. Often in cahoots with shady medical people like this one.

http://www.legalnewsline.com/news/219257-harron-others-named-in-miss.-suit-over-asbestos-scheme

600,000 people who were told that they were ill, when they weren't.

Posted by: denton at September 25, 2009 7:38 AM in response to Asbestos That's Not a Ripoff?

PS: Mopar, you can simply throw the linoleum out. Whether or not it has asbestos in it, the asbestos is not considered 'friable'. Bag it up and get rid of it, don't get ripped off by someone who will tell you it hazardous waste. Not so.

Posted by: denton at September 25, 2009 7:41 AM in response to Asbestos That's Not a Ripoff?

Mopar - I had a really terrific & savvy guy help me a few years ago. Phone Joe Bova - 718 234 7437 or try his pager - 917 457 2291. He has a cell but prefers the pager when he's on site somewhere. 917 697 1853.

Posted by: Arkady at September 25, 2009 8:42 AM in response to Asbestos That's Not a Ripoff?

BTW, I got P100 filters for the standard M3 6000 face mask. The package states, that it protects from Asbestos, Uramium and Plutonuim

Posted by: bobjohn at September 25, 2009 9:43 AM in response to Asbestos That's Not a Ripoff?

zberlin: what fear-mongering. Cleaning up small amounts of asbestos yourself will cause no harm.

But then look at the EPA cleanup suggestions for broken CFL's, which sound like you're about to die of mercury poisoning. It's a matter of proportion

Posted by: cmu at September 25, 2009 10:13 AM in response to Asbestos That's Not a Ripoff?

Whenever someone starts talking about asbestos I'm reminded of 1993 when I was in high school here in NYC and the Mayor Dinkins/Board of Ed delayed the start of the school year until almost October to do "emergency" asbestos abatement in public schools across all 5 boros. They still weren't able to get everything abated and cleaned up in time at my school, and we returned to school in late Sept with plastic tarps taped over open holes in the walls, dust everywhere, exposed pipes, etc. Somehow the asbestos present for 50+ years, that millions of students and teachers were exposed to, became an emergency all of a sudden.

Mesothelioma is a form of lung cancer caused by years and years of exposure to airborne asbestos. There is an entire industry of lawyers (ambulance chasers) dedicated to asbestos litigation who have made a ton of money because of the identifiable correlation between asbestos and lung cancer. However, the most authoritative study of health effects of asbestos studied 100,000 men, of whom 17,800 all worked in the asbestos industry ("heavy occupational asbestos exposure"). It compared smoking cigarettes to asbestos exposure and found that cigarette smokers who didn't work in the asbestos industry were more than twice as likely to die from lung cancer as non-smokers who worked in the asbestos industry. In the study we are talking about people exposed to asbestos on a daily basis, as a career, before the gov't realized it was a dangerous fiber; not people who were incidentally exposed to it while doing work in their house. Yes, both smokers and asbestos workers faced a much higher risk of lung cancer than the control group (and considerably higher if they were exposed to both).

Point being, I personally would not be afraid of removing a 5" segment myself as long as I was wearing a mask, keeping it wet and bagging it carefully. Just as I would not be afraid of getting lung cancer if I smoked a single cigarette.

Posted by: setancre at September 25, 2009 12:55 PM in response to Asbestos That's Not a Ripoff?

>Just as I would not be afraid of getting lung cancer if I smoked a single cigarette

Or even a few. But it seems that there are plenty of people who are so shit-scared of everything that they make life expensive and painful for the rest of us.

Posted by: cmu at September 25, 2009 1:08 PM in response to Asbestos That's Not a Ripoff?

BTW, I got P100 filters for the standard M3 6000 face mask. The package states, that it protects from Asbestos, Uramium and Plutonuim

Posted by: bobjohn at September 25, 2009 9:43 AM

I was taught to hide under my desk in the event of a nuclear bomb.

Posted by: daveinbedstuy at September 25, 2009 3:57 PM in response to Asbestos That's Not a Ripoff?