brownman's Profile
- 2006
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- Brooklyn
- Victorian Flatbush
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Author's Posts
May 8, 2009
Gurgle, Gurgle
I have a toilet on the first floor of my home that from time to time does not flush well. When it fails to do so, the water swirls and builds up but drains very slowly. As well, I hear this toilet gurgle when I drain the upstairs tub and or drain the kitchen sink. I had a person come and snake my toilet, but no fix was to be found. Could this be a result of a bad vent line, blocked or crushed main line going out to the street. Any insights and or suggestions would be helpful.
TIA
February 27, 2009
Bathroom Reno: Reality Check
A recent leak from the shower located on the 2nd floor of my wood frame Victorian is forcing me to face the reality of a full gut bathroom renovation (trust me it needs it). My question is, can this be done with a budget of $15k using a proper Architect, filing with the city and working with a honest/responsible contractor? If so, do any of you have any suggestions or recommendations for such a person who is proven and professional? My poor house has suffered so much from the hands of previous owners who would of done more by doing nothing. I would like to begin this project as soon as respectfully possible.
TIA
February 10, 2009
Electrical Conundrum
I have a circuit panel rated for 100 amps and if I would like to add several more breakers that will exceed that amount, what is the best course of action and what would you think that will cost for a pro to do it?
February 3, 2009
NEC, Right or Wrong
I opened up a wall that needs repair and I've come to find that the previous owner had used Romex instead of BX to wire a couple of electrical outlets. Does anyone know if the use of romex is code in an old wood frame house or should I replace it all with BX?
TIA
January 30, 2009
Radiator Disharmony
A couple questions for Master Plumber and any one else. I have several radiators that emit an "shhhhhh" sound, like it's telling me softly to be quiet. Is that normal or do you think I need to replace the air valves? And last, I have a radiator on the third floor that has a small leak from one of the section joints, along with a gurgle sound that is transmitted through the riser that runs through our bedroom, any thoughts on what I should do to get some peace at night? TIA
January 17, 2009
Oil tank
I have an oil tank in the basement, that is no longer being used since the house was converted to gas, does anyone have any suggestions for removal or insight in getting rid of one? TIA
January 16, 2009
Abestos Removal
I have abestos on my boiler pipes in my basement, can anyone recommend a good licensed abestos removal company.
Author's Comments
I live in DP, own a house and I am presently renovating my kitchen. I, like the others, have incorporated the pantry into the kitchen design and found that I have tons of space now.
Posted by: brownman at April 13, 2009 7:22 PM in response to Ditmas Park Addition?
Yes, I want to remove an awkwardly placed and extremely small shower, and possibly move a tub and a sink to a new location.
Posted by: brownman at February 27, 2009 1:57 PM in response to Bathroom Reno: Reality Check
I would like to add, that I do not want fancy fixtures or tile, rather the emphasis be on design. I have some idea of what I would like, but also open to ideas.
Posted by: brownman at February 27, 2009 12:46 PM in response to Bathroom Reno: Reality Check
"Nothin' like lettin' the little tykes play on that cee-mented front yard." I hope they are well stocked in band aids.
Posted by: brownman at February 11, 2009 8:40 PM in response to How Unfortunate: 669 Classon Avenue
Hi Everyone,
As for my service panel, I have at least 8 - 10 unused slots, and I've added the total breaker amperage which comes to around 160A. One problem I do have, is it appears that most of the house is wired to two separate 20A breakers that pop when I'm running the coffee pot, toaster and when my wife is using the blow dryer at the same time. Usually when that happens, only one side of the house is out.
As for the other circuit breakers, some are reserved for dedicated AC plugs, dedicated washer/dryer, and a few I have no idea to what they serve. I'm all for the pro, I just don't have deep pockets and need to save up for the work to be done (staying away from the credit cards if you know what I mean).
Thanks for your responses.
Posted by: brownman at February 11, 2009 8:35 PM in response to Electrical Conundrum
I think the simplest way is to mount them to a frame with cross braces or a piece of 3/4" plywood with liquid nails. If this is something that you consider valuable and want to preserve, then use silicone instead of liquid nails. Once it is mounted on to it’s backing, you can screw in "d" rings into the substrate and hand.
As for cleaning, most restorers use distilled water and cotton swabs. It will take a while, but it is the most preservative method of cleaning artwork.
If this is all too much, I am an Art Handler and could mount and hang your art piece. I'll give you my number if you are interested.
Posted by: brownman at February 3, 2009 1:28 PM in response to mounting steel sign indoors?
A great inspector should be finding as many things wrong with the place as they can, electrical, heating, structural, roof, stairs, mold and so on. All of this information will give you a greater hand at the negotiating table with the buyer. You will gain a greater hand to present when asking for credits or adjustments. In the least, this report should give you a clear picture of the property real condition, amount of work needed to fix it up and weather you want to take something like this on. When buying our place, we got a 99 page, in depth, detailed report from Heimer Engineering. Believe me, when the report is done right, it is money well spent.
Posted by: brownman at January 30, 2009 3:57 PM in response to House Inspection-What to Expect?
Wow, to replace your main girder is a big job. If you don't mind me asking, why do you need to replace the whole thing, is it rotten, split, sagging, eaten up by bugs or any combination of these things?
Posted by: brownman at January 30, 2009 6:16 AM in response to Beam Replacement
Their buffalo wings are great!
Posted by: brownman at January 21, 2009 7:33 PM in response to Coney Island Ave Gets New Restaurant
The main thing I would change is hiring Richard Perri, Professional Home Inspection Corp. The guy gave me only 45 minutes, missed all kinds of things that I later found on my own, charged me $800, and later handed me a inferior report 3 page report that was junk. This guy is not worth the money, nor my time. Luckily, we received a certified report from our agent that was from a Licensed Professional Engineer, Heimer Engineering, P.C. It basically cost the same as that schmuck charged me, but was a thorough 92 page document that detailed every aspect of the house. Go to Heimer, skip schmuck I say.
Posted by: brownman at January 21, 2009 10:53 AM in response to Woulda, coulda, shoulda
I would recommend contacting a friend of mine, Crawford Day, his phone number is (917) 675-2640. He and his business partner are professional art installers. They are a freelance team, working mainly in Manhattan. I know them both to be knowledgeable, precise, clean, and conscientious. I'm sure they can hang anything you throw at them.
Posted by: brownman at January 21, 2009 6:11 AM in response to Mounting / Hanging Skills
Thanks, I actually saw it after I posted my comment and I'm getting ready to call a few.
Posted by: brownman at January 16, 2009 12:25 PM in response to Abestos Removal
The abestos insulation is holding, but several companies suggested we remove the abestos inorder to fix the problems we've been having with our steam boiler and heating system.
Posted by: brownman at January 16, 2009 12:01 PM in response to Abestos Removal
Responses to Author's Forum Comments
Great catch. Can't go back and get the next two panels can you? The big P and the 38? Would make an even cooler composition. That said plain old dish soap and water can't hurt.
Posted by: IMBY at February 3, 2009 5:54 PM in response to mounting steel sign indoors?
Sounds like you don't have enough branch circuits.
A house wired correctly will have dedicated 20amp circuits for the fridge, dishwasher, and garbage disposer (if you have one). Then there are usually 2 separate 20amp circuits just for the kitchen counter appliances you plug in. So right there, for the kitchen alone, you should have 4-5 separate, dedicated 20amp branch circuits. If you have an electric stove that would require its own 240v circuit...
A bathroom should have its own circuit as well.
And one other thing, all receptacles near water - in your kitchen, bathrooms, garage, and outdoors should always be outfitted with GFCI outlets. (Ground fault circuit interrupters) These devices detect minute changes in voltage and shut down quickly. An example would be if you dropped your hair dryer in the toilet. A GFCI will trip the breaker immediately which means you are less likely to be seriously electrocuted.
You can find out which circuit breakers control the branch circuits by plugging a radio into every outlet in your house, turn it up loud, and start flipping breakers til its stops. Make a chart and post it inside the service panel. Repeat for every outlet and light receptacle in your house.
Posted by: appoggiatura at February 12, 2009 7:27 AM in response to Electrical Conundrum
you surely sound like your house is way underwired...subcode in the kitchen and bath..like the last post indicated you should have way more branch circuits than you do...hopefully you have some wiring chases where you can run new lines to alleviate your overload conditions...btw, i offer a free consultation, contact me at errol832000@yahoo.com
Posted by: eman1234 at February 12, 2009 10:04 PM in response to Electrical Conundrum
Are you moving plumbing? Why file a bathroom?
Posted by: denton at February 27, 2009 1:43 PM in response to Bathroom Reno: Reality Check
Yes, I want to remove an awkwardly placed and extremely small shower, and possibly move a tub and a sink to a new location.
Posted by: brownman at February 27, 2009 1:57 PM in response to Bathroom Reno: Reality Check
I agree with denton.
Posted by: daveinbedstuy at February 27, 2009 1:58 PM in response to Bathroom Reno: Reality Check
You can do this project for the amount you've described. It might take a little flexibility with time, as in working with a contractor's schedule so you're between two larger projects, but from what you've described so far your budget is realistic.
Posted by: Smokychimp at February 27, 2009 2:02 PM in response to Bathroom Reno: Reality Check
A complete gut renovation (nothing left but joist and studs), with an architect (providing design services); filing and permiting, and the use of a licensed and insured responsible contractor with a $15k budget will be a hardpressed task to accomplish.
Although a quality bathroom can be completed for $15k, relocating plumbing and lighting fixtures (which I assume is the reason for the need of a design professional)will chew into that budget real fast. As will new fixtures, tiles and accessories.
I suggest you gather your ideas, vet and select a responsible general contractor, and work closely with them as a team to design build your bathroom within a set budget.
Lastly, make sure to set aside an amount within your budget for unseen conditions (rotten/water damage joist, pipe replacement, etc.). This is common in buildings that suffered in the hands of previous owners.
Good Luck
Posted by: NYCBuilder at February 27, 2009 2:21 PM in response to Bathroom Reno: Reality Check
I am an architect, doing lots of residential bath and kitchen renos in PS and have done work in Victorians too. (and I am recommended on Angie's list.) I think this is a good time to do work as it is quiet out there for the small guys. $15 is a fine budget for a regular, nice bathroom.
If you want to ask me questions about filing etc, please contact me, I would be happy to talk to you.
pjazz1@arthlink.net
Posted by: chmod at February 27, 2009 3:42 PM in response to Bathroom Reno: Reality Check
I used (and highly recommend) PHDesign architects for my bathroom renovation. They are a husband and wife team, easy to work with (came to my house at nites/weekends to review and were always available), had lots of good ideas, were affordable, AND Anthony has hands on experience in construction (he speaks the language and is great with contractors). Give them a call: 646-660-1654.
I can provide more info if requested.
Posted by: jab287 at February 27, 2009 5:28 PM in response to Bathroom Reno: Reality Check

I am a profession art installer, the key element is the distance between the plaster/lath and the brick. If you have at least an 1 1/2" to 3/4" space between the two, I suggest using a molly bolt. They range in various lengths, are easy to install and do not need a huge hole to insert them. They function like a toggle bolt once screw in, but the hole required is only the size of the shaft of the molly bolt. Take a look at this link, an illustration is provided to show you how to install them and other hangers as well: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://images.oldhouseweb.com/stories/bitmaps/10117/e816v8.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/hanging-objects-from-plaster-walls.shtml&h=410&w=300&sz=15&tbnid=6o8I1VgPuU0CGM:&tbnh=125&tbnw=91&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmolly%2Bbolt&usg=__s6Stxb-6lszRq999v10yPM7KthU=&ei=N317SorIB56ltgfG89T2AQ&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=4&ct=image
If the brick is closer than a 1/2", then I say drill a hole for either led anchors and screws or blue screws (made for brick and or cement.
Posted by: brownman at August 6, 2009 9:16 PM in response to Mounting on Plaster Wall?