adenyce's Profile
Author's Posts
March 12, 2008
Increasing Co-op Value
The board of our small co-op building (15 units) is considering adding basement storage units to the building. In order to move forward, we need buy-in from our shareholders. What is the value of a shareholder having a storage unit beyond just having extra space to store one's belongings? Are there finacial benefits (tax breaks, increased resalve value, etc.?)
February 8, 2008
Painting Moldings' Impact on Resale Value
The window and door moldings as well as the wainscoting in the living room and dining room in our co-op apartment have layers and layers of paint on them. And in many areas there are flaws on the molding due to the previous owners painting over areas where paint had chipped away. We've tried stripping some of the molding with hopes of staining or repainting them, but have found the process to be too messy and time consuming. Because we don't plan on staying in this apartment long term (it's too small), we don’t think it's worth the time to strip all the woodwork and stain or repaint them. (If this were a house we’d be living in for 10-20 years we would.) I'm curious as to how much impact less than pristine moldings will have on the resale value of our apartment.
January 15, 2008
Help for Cracking Plaster Walls
My husband and I recently purchased our first apartment in a prewar building. There were minor cracks in the plaster walls when we purchased the apartment, but the inspector didn’t seem to think they were an indication of any structural problems. Prior to painting we fixed the existing cracks in the walls. Now, just a few months after painting, we've discovered new cracks in several of our walls. Is this normal? Is there any way to prevent future cracks or are we just destined to live in an apartment with cracked walls?
January 7, 2008
Buying and Selling at the Same Time
My husband and I purchased our first apartment last year. We've quickly discovered that the place is much smaller than we anticipated and would like to look for something larger next year. I'm curious as to how people typically coordinate selling one's existing place and buying another in this market? Are sellers open to offers conditional on the buyer selling his existing home or is it necessary to sell first, find temporary housing and then look for a new home?
December 3, 2007
Updating Wood Floors
I would like to improve the flooring in the two bedrooms in our co-op apartment. While the hallway that the two bedrooms are off of has a nice oak wood stained in Minwax Early American, the bedrooms have what a flooring company described as a pine subfloor (even though the floor is at the same level as the hall floor). The bedroom floors have many damaged planks so repairing and refinishing would not be an attractive option. Pulling up the existing flooring and laying new hardwood is out of our budget, so we are considering lock and fold wood floors to go on top of the existing floors. Since we won't be able to match the bedroom and hallway floors exactly, what is the best way to choose a color/finish for the bedroom that will go nicely with the hall floor? Also, will not having the same flooring throughout the apartment or having lock and fold instead of traditional hardwood affect the apartment's resale value?
October 14, 2007
Light Fixture: Trash or Treasure?
My husband and I are renovating our first co-op apartment. The lighting fixture in the dining room doesn't go with our decor, but because it is a bit unusual we wanted to find out whether it would be worth trying to sell it. What is the best way to find out what, if anything, a piece like this is worth?
Author's Comments
Thanks for all the insightful input. Due to the size and location of our co-op apartment, I don't anticipate seeing much in terms of capital gains. And the way the market looks now, we could easily pass the two-year mark of ownership before selling. I'm glad I inquired early so we know what to anticipate. Thanks again.
Posted by: adenyce at January 9, 2008 11:40 AM in response to Buying and Selling at the Same Time
Mrs. Limestone,
Thanks for your response. The lock and fold is actually a hardwood material (ex. www.bruce.com.)The planks click together for easy installation without the need for nails or glue.
Our bathroom floor is already higher than the hallway due to the previous owner installing tile on top of tile, so the higher floors in the bedrooms wouldn't be out of place.
In regard to painting the floor, does the existing floor need to have a smooth finish? Our floors currently have many scratches and some damanged planks that have begun to splinter. I'm assuming these would need to be corrected before painting. Is that a DIY type job? Also, is there a particular type of paint that should be used on floors and is there any type of topcoat applied to prevent scratches?
Posted by: adenyce at December 3, 2007 10:29 AM in response to Updating Wood Floors
Responses to Author's Forum Comments
Its just a personal style thing but I personally perfer all the floors to flow thru one another without saddles in between (bathrooms are the exception since they are a different material anyway). But thats just me - a lot of people wouldn't care. In fact, I think most people have saddles seperating their floors so Im sure Im in the minority on this.
Ive never painted a floor so I don't know from personal experience. That said, I would fill in any big gaps or holes in the floor before painting and then leave the little scratches as added character. A painted floor is a bit rustic looking anyway so the small imperfections would look fine. And yes, there is special floor paint. The paint store can point it out and explain how to apply it properly. I don't think there is a topcoat but Im sure you could add some kind of acrylic clear coat if you wanted to keep it looking very new. Its really the cheapest fix you could possibly do.
Posted by: MrsLimestone at December 3, 2007 10:44 AM in response to Updating Wood Floors
Do it right ... wide-plank quarter sawed white oak baby!
Posted by: guest at December 3, 2007 12:29 PM in response to Updating Wood Floors
If you are in a co-op, why not ask the opinions of you neighbors. These are people attracted to the same type of apartment and building who can therefore best judge what flooring appeals for such buyers. For me, I'd say to save and do it "right" later with real hardwood planks, not the click together stuff you see now on HGTV quick makeovers. I see that type of thing while house-hunting now and I keep moving. However, when I see wide plank pine, I know it's original in many older federal style homes and often on the upper floors of victorians.
Posted by: guest at December 3, 2007 12:42 PM in response to Updating Wood Floors
if you decide to get rid of your pine floors, i will pull them up and remove them for free. im an insured, licensed contractor in brooklyn looking for some extra pine flooring (even if it is in bad shape). if interested email me at chinaspice25@yahoo.com
thanks!
Posted by: chinaspice at December 3, 2007 7:05 PM in response to Updating Wood Floors
It sounds like maybe the general cracking in the plaster weren't repaired properly over the years, that's all. And now the quickie job they did before selling is opening up again, in the areas you yourself have not patched yet.
Sure it's a pain, but plaster walls are superior to drywall so it's worth it.
Posted by: guest at January 15, 2008 1:51 PM in response to Help for Cracking Plaster Walls
Guest 1:08, you sound like you know what you are talking about.
Can you give me some tips on patching a much larger area, about 8 sq ft. The horsehair plaster there was removed to open the chimney, and now there is just bare brick that needs to be covered. I was planning to use Structolite Base Coat for scratch and brown coat and then Master of Plaster for the finish coat.
Posted by: ohiise at January 15, 2008 2:48 PM in response to Help for Cracking Plaster Walls
2:48 you are on the right track.
To reiterate above. If it is a small crack which can be filled with painter's caulk, do that. The caulk will be flexible and allow for future movement. (Paint with a latex paint, too)
If the plater is separated from the lath (the keys are broken) use plaster washers: see http://www.modernwaylumber.com/plaster (nice graphic, but order anywhere)
As others have said, be sure to tape over the crack if you repait with mud. Mesh tape is great or flat areas, more difficult in corners.
Posted by: guest at January 15, 2008 4:27 PM in response to Help for Cracking Plaster Walls
I had a similar problem with cracks in my ceiling. I came across a reference, Fitz??, on this website. He and his guys did a great job fixing the problem and educated me a bit. I don't have his number on hand, but if you search this site you may be able to find it.
More importantly, you may want to work with the co-op board to help determine the source of the problem (determine if it's foundational) and have that fixed first. It can't just be only you facing this.
Posted by: BedStuyGal at January 15, 2008 8:47 PM in response to Help for Cracking Plaster Walls
Our company in southern Colorado does plaster repairs for less than $50k! Sheesh!
No one above mentioned anything about using Daraweld (concrete "glue") to prep your surfaces before patching. If you make a mixture of it, 50/50 with water, it soaks into the more fragile portions of your damage and consolidates it. Sometimes plaster becomes fragile with exposure to water, even if it's only condensation. This takes years sometimes to do the damage, but there you go. My father has used this method for thirty years, once in a large (old) auditorium ceiling and none of it has ever come down. I don't know if it's even cracked again. The stuff also acts like a microscopic cushion. When an old fogie tells you "They don't build them like they used to back in the old days!" You can tell him (or her) for me, "Thank heavens!" There have been many improvements in materials and methods. To get apprentices familiar with this material and process I have them make two small egg shapes by hand. One with a quart of Gypsum setting-mix and this mixture instead of water. The other with same and water. These get set aside until they are dry enough to sand. Handed a metal rasp I tell them to smooth the egg to a nicer shape. They usually come to me and say they can't even rasp the first one. It's too hard!
That gives them an idea of what is going on. Try it for yourself. P.S. The plaster secret is this: sugar in the water to slow it down, salt to speed it up.
Posted by: akryeguy at January 16, 2008 12:29 AM in response to Help for Cracking Plaster Walls
Great tip! Is Structolite plaster really difficult to work with?
Posted by: ohiise at January 16, 2008 7:05 AM in response to Help for Cracking Plaster Walls
Thanks for the responses. Sorry I wasn't clearer in my original post. The cracks that were repaired are fine (so far). The new cracks are in completely different areas of the walls.
Posted by: adenyce at January 15, 2008 1:36 PM in response to Help for Cracking Plaster Walls