Some kind of sewer is necessary. A higher threshold is just a temporary solution; water will find a way to get into the house.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at August 26, 2009 1:27 PM in response to Dry Sewer?

Hey Faithful, completely off topic: What's going on with Beer? I'm worried about him, he hasn't returned my calls for a few days, and before that he stopped by and he complained about high blood pressure. I hope he's ok. Can you email me at
yury at thynkdesign dot com ?

Posted by: Sputnik13 at June 24, 2009 4:48 PM in response to My Tenants are Slobs!!

I can recommend some feral cats. They have pretty much eradicated my backyard rat issue. You can contact them at 646 GRR MEOW.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 20, 2009 12:28 PM in response to Neighbor and Rat Problem

Sounds like you'd need to open up both walls. Sinks are supposed to be vented, so there is a drain pipe connecting the sink to the main sewer pipe, and also a vent pipe going up and connecting the the vent in the roof. I am not a plumber, but IMHO this is not a minor kind of thing. You are probably better off to do this as you are ripping out the old kitchen. A real plumber and a qualified GC should be able to help. You can check out Thahal Beer, from Beer construction, 646 358 6118. I'm sure he'd stop by and give his opinion for free. I used him for most of my plumbing work.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 20, 2009 11:41 AM in response to Cheap plumber in Boerum Hill?

You definitely need a permit to install new plumbing fixtures, and it gets dicey when these things are in the basement. Some people I know have done what you described without permits.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 6, 2009 3:31 PM in response to Bathtub/shower in basement?

Also you can try Harris Water Main, they replaced my water main pipe. The old pipe was 100 yrs old, it was lead, and it was clogged so badly that only a 1/4 opening was left for the water to come through! Your problem sounds similar to what I had. Harris Water Main cost me $3800, and the above estimates are lower. I'm not sure if I overpaid or of my job was more complicated.. But they were pretty good and thorough with everything, even when they had to deal with a huge boulder underground in the way of the new pipe!

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 6, 2009 3:23 PM in response to Replace street supply water pipe

Check this guy out: Thahal Beer, from Beer Construction. He's been my GC for about 9 months now, helping out with large and small jobs. He's very competent, works by himself or with a small crew if necessary, and he won't ever leave the project until everyone is happy. He's a good guy. If you call him, let him know that you were referred by Yury.

Beer: 646 358 6118

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 6, 2009 3:02 PM in response to Kitchen Island

I'm sorry, squaredrive, but why would you want central air in a new construction? It's so inefficient and takes up a lot of room.
Also, $500/SF+ ???!!! That's half a mil per floor! That kind of expense is not at all justified unless your brownstone is in the prime area of brooklyn heights or Upper West Side. If you're spending upwards of 500/SF you better get a maid and a butler, while you're at it.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at February 9, 2009 6:14 PM in response to Cost to Build a New Brownstone

$3850, incl. permits and tax, should take 1-2 weeks for permits and 1 day's worth of work. I guess they are going to come with orange cones, jackhammers, a backhoe, and half a dozen guys. We'll see.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at February 9, 2009 5:50 PM in response to Water pressure: booster needed

Fedders buildings should all be condemned and torn down.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at February 9, 2009 4:04 PM in response to Cost to Build a New Brownstone

I got some HD tile for the rental kitchens, about $1.50 per square foot, 12 inch tile, grey slate color. Not too horsey looking, very durable. For the entryway I went to Auction Outlet of Queens, 9504 Liberty Ave, near Rockaway and Woodhaven. Great for low-end and mid-range tile, good selection, better than HD IMO.
2 additional pieces of advice:
1. do not get the tile that has obviously printed pattern. You can tell by looking real close, if you see a screen type pattern, run away, that's ghetto.
2. whatever you put down, keep 4-5 square feet extra, in case next year someone drops an anvil or a piano and breaks the tile. It would be a whole lot easier to fix if you already have some of the same tile.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at February 9, 2009 3:49 PM in response to HD tile for the entryway

Update for stained glass: I went with Sunburst Studio on 3rd ave not far from Lowes. I am getting 3 windows, about 26 x 30 each, at a cost of about $675 each roughly. I am using their in-stock glass, not ordering anything special. Hopefully someone would find this useful.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at February 9, 2009 2:51 PM in response to Stained Glass to-order

I called Harris Water Main, the guy named Steve came and gave a not-so-unreasonable estimate. I will probably go with them and get the water main dug out and replaced from the street. BTW, we apparently have a lead 7/8 inch main currently. A lead one.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at February 9, 2009 2:36 PM in response to Water pressure: booster needed

Wow, what a question. I do NOT speak from experience, but I feel like taking a whack at it. I figure we're talking about a 4 story brownstone, with a utility basement. Lets say your lot is 25' by 100', and the house footprint is 25 x 40. That's a very nice-size house. Each floor would be roughly 1000 sq feet. Let's say that to dig out the foundation and build the shell from cinderblock would set you back $150-250K. A wild estimate, a very fuzzy figure, I am sure I'll be corrected on that one. Then to finish each floor, I figure about $120-$160 per sq. foot for permits, labor and materials. If you want to go fancy with woodwork and need specialty custom items, top-end appliances and accoutrements, say you need $200 per sq. foot. So maybe on the low end you need 1000sqft x 4floors x $120 per sqft = 480K plus 150K for the shell gives you 630K. Add the inevitable 30% margin for all the unexpected things, and you get 819K for the low estimate. Following similar math, the high estimate with nice everything I get $1.365M. THat's not counting the cost of the lot, of course.
What do you guys think: am I completely off the rails here?

Posted by: Sputnik13 at February 9, 2009 2:33 PM in response to Cost to Build a New Brownstone

This is not such a big deal: one negative comment does not ruin a reputation. This problem sounds like an oversight or lack of coordination between you and the contractor. What we need to know is if this is a recurring problem, or a one-off kind of thing. So pray do tell.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at December 2, 2008 2:48 PM in response to HUGE Problem!! help!

I would think 3K is quite reasonable for one flight of pine stairs. It would cost a lot more for oak. Go for it.

Concrete / block staircase would not be cheaper, but would add a huge, huge amount of weight, and would be a b*tch to demolish and remove should you or the next owner decide to do so. I would not install one of those indoors, even if the basement is utility-only, not live-in.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at December 1, 2008 5:19 PM in response to BASEMENT STAIRCASE QUOTE

Hi! I have a reference and a piece of advice. Advice first:
I also was thinking to re-glaze my old cast iron bathtub, but upon further consideration I realized it is far more expensive and labor-intensive to reglaze an old heavy tub rather than to get a new steel one. I bought 3 steel tubs for about $350-400 each, and they are totally fine. Unless you've got a claw-foot antique tub, I would recommend replacement.

Now a reference:
I've been working with Beer, from Beer Construction for over 6 months now. He's pretty much finished with me, and he's looking for new projects. I think he may be interested in your project. He's a very thorough, honest, and skilled person, and he does a lot of the work himself. I'm pretty sure he's insured and licensed in NYC. You can try giving him a call at 646-358-6118. You can say that you were referred by Yury.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at November 25, 2008 10:57 AM in response to contractors/renovations

Just to drop my 2 cents: I paid $700 for a roof hatch, 30x30 inches, steel, hydraulic hinges. It weighed a ton: it took 4 guys to hoist it onto the roof. So it definitely wasn't solid gold.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at November 25, 2008 10:45 AM in response to steel roof hatch insanity

I think the initial setup cost of a mini-split system will take more than a few years to offset with the energy savings. These units are expensive to begin with, and the installation can also be costly. I've bought 2 Amcorair units, but I'm motivated mostly by the increased energy efficiency and low profile of these units, not so much by the cost savings in the long run.
I'm putting my outdoor units on the roof, and the indoor units have a perfect nook between a chimney and a wall. I'm also glad I am doing this now, as we have the studs in place but not all of the drywall. This way all the hoses / wires can be pulled in between walls and onto the roof without having to make big nasty holes in the wall.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at September 22, 2008 6:04 PM in response to No More Window Air Conditioners

That's funny: a 16-unit building with a single thermostat in one of the units, subject to the whim of one resident. What's wrong with the idea of removing that thermostat, and installing a single, locked, programmable thermostat in a public area, like the stairwell?

Posted by: Sputnik13 at September 22, 2008 5:50 PM in response to Heating Temperature Control

No, this is my current contractor, Beer from Beer Construction. I've been plugging him all over these threads! :) He's a good guy. I don't know anything about his siding skills, but feel free to give him a call, 646-358-6118.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at September 22, 2008 5:32 PM in response to cost for siding

I used to live in a coop in the LES, and those buildings were run by a control-obsessed robotic bureaucracy. I did some reno, but my contractor was driven nearly mad by having to comply with the board and all the ridiculous rules. I think litigation is a waste of time in this case. I would suck it up, try to establish some human rapport with the powers in control, and try to do what they want. Often they just want to feel important and big. Confrontation with a coop board usually does not end well for the cooperator.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at September 22, 2008 5:29 PM in response to co-op harassment

Yep, I think 20K is not at all close to what this job may cost. Also, what you're describing will likely lead to other necessary improvements, such as you may find that the hardwood floors need total replacement, or that removing walls may create a structural issue. Don't set out on the renovation journey unless you're well-funded and emotionally ready.

Architect plans and permits from the Department of Buildings are required for any wall removal or moving of plumbing fixtures, major electrical work, etc. That said, some take a chance and do the work without approval. This can be dangerous as the department of buildings has the power to shut down all unauthorized construction, slap you with a fine, and force you to re-do or un-do all the work.

But then again, I would think most older houses in Brooklyn have some amount of unauthorized improvements, and some, including mine, had outrageous irregularities.

I can refer you to my contractor, Beer, 646-358-6118. He's honest and realistic in his estimates. He can also suggest the right way forward for you.

Another good idea is to get a good inspector to come look at the property. But inspectors aren't good at giving construction estimates.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at September 22, 2008 5:15 PM in response to Constractor suggestions for a newbie??

I would think that depends on what shape your brick/cornice are in, and what brand/size windows you'd like to install. My contractor gave my neighbor a quote of something in the ballpark of 30K to only do the siding on one side of a 4-story structure. That said, they did not book him for the job. Furthermore, 4 months later they still did not replace the old gross and rotting siding, so I figure they could not find any better quotes.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at September 22, 2008 4:12 PM in response to cost for siding

"I wanted to say: Sputnik said "Financial industry is extraordinarily innovative" to which I replied "I've had enuf goddamn innovation from the financial industry to last me the rest of my life. ""

Well, like it or not, the people employed by the financial companies are really good at making money. That's what they are good at. I am certain that in the coming months and years, the talent pool on Wall St. will re-group and become successful again, earning good money for themselves and supporting the local economy. Hopefully, they will not usher in another bubble, but as history shows, economic bubbles are to be expected, as greed is as old as Rome. Probably older.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at September 19, 2008 2:26 PM in response to SELL vs RENT?

There is some good insight on this thread. I'd like to drop my 2 cents: I agree with Lechacal's overall argument. Furthermore, I see a two forces working in opposite direction:
1. Manhattan prices stand to fall because of coming layoffs, the disappearance of financial bonuses, and trouble getting credit. Brooklyn real estate market is in many ways an extension of Manhattan market, and will suffer as a result.
2. Brooklyn has been experienced a cultural rennaisance, and this trend is not dictated by property values. The desirability of many neighborhoods only stands to increase.

So I think an investment in brownstone Brooklyn is a better, or in light of recent news, a less tragic one than an investment of a similar value in Manhattan.

But at the same time I completely disagree with the prediction that on September 17th 2017 brooklyn prices will resemble today's. Financial industry is extraordinarily innovative, and in a few years it should rebound and re-emerge with new strength. Besides, in 10 years we will have been through and emerged from several more crises!

Posted by: Sputnik13 at September 17, 2008 5:43 PM in response to SELL vs RENT?

I am having s similar issue. After checking several sites and also talking to my contractor, the code requires at least a 30x30 hatch for a multi-family dwelling. This is necessary for the firemen to get inside your burning building, and 30x30 is a minimum size. (the firemen eat lots of ice-cream, and they tend to have lots of gear on them) I am looking for a low-price option for a steel hatch. So far not much luck.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at July 24, 2008 2:46 PM in response to roof hatches and ladders

Kedalb, that's interesting input. So far I've used Beer for things that don't require too much finishing or attention to detail. I know he is thorough and responsible when it comes to that. He's done a bang-up job framing in the walls, and I have no doubt he can lay out the plumbing well, but for example I plan to do drywall work myself so that I can control the final quality of the work. Same with moldings, flooring and painting. Well, post an update when he's through with your place, hopefully Beer can redeem himself when he presents you the final product!

Posted by: Sputnik13 at June 15, 2008 12:26 PM in response to Contractor Recommendation

Hahaha!! Well, he's over at my place every other day or so. Maybe he doesn't need too much more work right now. Are you happy with him so far?

Posted by: Sputnik13 at June 11, 2008 4:03 PM in response to Contractor Recommendation

typo correction: this is a 3 story townhouse, not 4 story.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at June 11, 2008 3:01 PM in response to Contractor Recommendation

I don't know, I dig it, for the most part. I only dislike the bathrooms, which are done a la Marriott suite, and the paved-over backyard. I especially dig the kitchen area and the see-through top cabinets.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 30, 2008 2:08 PM in response to House of the Day: 266 Berkeley Place

Of course, one can also understand the tenants: it must be hell trying to find a rental apartment while pregnant. No wonder they are willing to agree to anything.

Did you ask them for their first-born? There may be room to negotiate... jk.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 28, 2008 7:52 PM in response to throwing the baby out?

Faithful, please email me at:

yurykotov(at)hotmail(dot)com

thanks!!!

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 28, 2008 7:41 PM in response to Structural Contractor

I meant to say cutting "in" 2 new flights. As in, opening up the floor/ceiling on 2 levels and building in the new flights.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 28, 2008 2:28 PM in response to Structural Contractor

Dude, 10:59 is right: the law is not on your side. By renting out an apartment which you intend to sell, you are creating a Pandora's box. It's hard enough to evict normal, non-pregnant tenants. Either you decide to sell this place, in which case you must sell it vacant; or you continue renting it for the foreseeable future.
Another point to consider: you potential buyer may not want to buy a condo with tenants in it, even if you provide reassurances that the tenants will leave. As someone who just spent 6 (six) months waiting to buy a house with problematic tenants, I can say this with certainty: never again will I consider buying a property that is not vacant.
My advice: tighten up the belt, take on some debt, but continue showing the apartment vacant. Lower the price if there's no interest. There's a price for everything.

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 28, 2008 2:05 PM in response to throwing the baby out?

Thanks for all the response!! Due to factors beyond my control, I am no longer buying the house I described initially. The new house has the same problem, but only on the scale of one floor. It's a 2 story brick house w/basement, and the top floor has a considerable sag. This has to be fixed; I get dizzy walking on it and the ceiling of the 1st floor looks crooked. I am looking now for any references to contractors who can do this kind of structural work. Also, I plan to move the staircase. Any leads??
( The complete internal demo of both 1st and 2nd floor will be taken care of by a different contractor before this structural work will take place.)

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 25, 2008 3:20 PM in response to Sagging support beams, again

I am considering buying a 4 floor brownstone in a "looted" condition. It has this same problem: the top 2 floors have a slight dip towards the middle. The inspector checked over the beams and they are in a pretty good condition, but because there have been new bathrooms/tubs installed in the middle of the house the weight over time has sagged the floors. He said it's not a big deal to jack up the floors, starting at the lowest level. The house needs a total rehab, so I'm not concerned about ripping through floors/ceilings. As many of you seem to have done this, what is a ballpark cost for this? Are we talking less than $10K per floor or more? Just any rough guesstimate is appreciated!!!

Posted by: Sputnik13 at April 1, 2008 10:22 AM in response to sagging support beams???

If it's at all helpful to hear this estimate, we have insurance with Chubb and their practice is to estimate what it would cost to recreate our house exactly, not just build any ole house in its place and they estimated $1.3 million to recreate our 2-story with English basement limestone house. We have decorative wood parquet floors throughout, a decent amount of woodwork but not the kind that is excessively detailed. Only one fireplace.

Posted by: traditionalmod at February 10, 2009 8:01 PM in response to Cost to Build a New Brownstone

you need permits and architectural drawings filed w/ the dob.. if you do the work w/out filing, and someone calls 311 on you, you will get a $500 fine and have to do it right... further, if you sell the house, the buyer can sue you for unfiled work... start by getting an architect recommended by one of your neighbors to give you a consultation re. cost and feasibility

Posted by: eman1234 at April 6, 2009 7:18 PM in response to Bathtub/shower in basement?

Take a look in the archive. There is a thread on this very issue entitled something like, "DOB permission needed for basement bathroom".

Posted by: kk634000 at April 6, 2009 7:25 PM in response to Bathtub/shower in basement?

If you sell the house just be prepared to rip it out and cap it. I don't understand how the buyer can sue you if they sign that $500 "as is" disclosure statement and you accept their $500 (most people do this in NYC at their closing). Perhaps someone, who really doesn't like you, calls 311 and you get a fine. I question the probability of a lawsuit.
I would not suggest doing this if you have a tendency to get flooded b/c the water can come up through the shower drain.

Posted by: bqe1970 at April 6, 2009 9:03 PM in response to Bathtub/shower in basement?

Try Artistic Wood Crafts -- they just custom rehab'ed my kitchen and I love every inch. Call Omar at 646-541-3409.

Posted by: AnnieJ at April 6, 2009 9:46 PM in response to Kitchen Island

I too recommend Mainman. It was a while ago and I don't remember the price to replace the water main.

Posted by: jfss at April 6, 2009 9:53 PM in response to Replace street supply water pipe

I used Rollins plumbing. Main Man gave me a higher quote around $5k. My water main was not on my side of the street or something so it was considerably more expensive than the above quotes. I did this when I was pregnant and paranoid of the old lead water main.
My water pressure improved a lot. The filters on my reverse osmosis filter in my kitchen still get pretty gnarly looking and I find that in NYC I need to replace them every 3 months, not 6 months.

Posted by: bqe1970 at April 6, 2009 9:59 PM in response to Replace street supply water pipe

Call Rocko at Plumbingwork (x?) on Degraw between Columbia and Van Brunt. Or even consider going to him in person. He mostly does sub work, so his prices don't reflect retail. Just remember to speak Brooklynese.

Posted by: brucef at April 6, 2009 11:00 PM in response to Replace street supply water pipe

Thanks so much everyone, this forum is great and confirming my own research. I happened to call one plumber who recommended these guys in Jamaica who seem great, and quoted a ball park $2500 http://www.balkanplumbing.com/services.html
They also have good photos on their website and also quoted a one day turn around.

I had some plumbers quoting me $4800 and up, its quite amazing. Plus fortunately I am on the same side as the fire hydrant, which really makes a big difference. Also a DOB permit has to be pulled and they do it without a hitch.

Posted by: Artdis at April 6, 2009 11:33 PM in response to Replace street supply water pipe

Who ever does the job has to pull a DOB permit or they loose their license, it only takes a few days so that is not a big deal and certainly not a bargaining chip. Most people who do this job are trying to remove a violation from the city under a time limit. The permit thing has to do with them, not you. They are the ones breaking up the street.
Replacing the actual water main is only a one day job no matter who does it. For a few hours you won't have water, it is no big deal. They come back the next day and fill up the hole they left.

In the end, go with the cheapest who is not a fly by night company. They take out the lead one out and put in the 3/4 copper one. There is no aesthetics involved. I was told that a one inch pipe is a waste on a 2 family and not to bother, stick with the 3/4 inch.
I also got these crazy quotes that were all over the place. Maybe because I was a pregnant woman who looked like she didn't know any better? I mean seriously the shit they were telling me was unbelievable. Trying to qualify a ridiculous price saying that it was the cost of copper that is through the roof. I actually told that idiot that if that was the case then I would happily give him all my coffee cans of loose change to melt down.

Posted by: bqe1970 at April 7, 2009 12:04 AM in response to Replace street supply water pipe