Spring Cleaning

Garrett Wade closed down the Manhattan showroom a couple of years ago. No worries there is a place 10x better which is now in Brooklyn.

Tools for working wood is on 33rd street b/t Second and Third Ave. Excellent selection of name brand tools plus they sell Festool and Gramercy tools (their own line). Joel, the owner, recently published a book about hand tools and he is always there should you happen to want to tap into his vast knowledge of woodworking tools.

toolsforworkingwood.com

Posted by: southslope at November 23, 2009 10:39 AM in response to Woodworking tool shop in NYC

tinarina- one of the properties will be occupied by the owner. The other will be sold or rented.

Posted by: southslope at November 19, 2009 6:34 PM in response to Development Watch: Turnaround at 424 Waverly Avenue

IMBY- the black paint used is from Fine paints of Europe. It is used on the door enframement, the windows, and the cornice. The doors themselves will be finished with a tung oil, as will all the wide plank (10"-16") floors.

Posted by: southslope at November 19, 2009 5:35 PM in response to Development Watch: Turnaround at 424 Waverly Avenue

Yes I am. Thanks Dave.

I am doing it for my friend Josey (owner) and it is actually two 12.5' wide row houses (424 and 426 Waverly.) The perma-stone exterior, on the before photo, was not only on the exterior of the building, but the interior walls as well. It was a good fit for the 12" deep shag carpets and mirrored ceilings that were in there before the renovation.

Posted by: southslope at November 19, 2009 4:04 PM in response to Development Watch: Turnaround at 424 Waverly Avenue

here is a link to a small album with the original tax photo and a few before shots:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1761281&id=53194651818

Posted by: southslope at November 19, 2009 3:36 PM in response to Development Watch: Turnaround at 424 Waverly Avenue

Wait 'till you see the new doors (they are sitting in my shop). We built them off of the tax photo- a perfect reproduction of the originals.

Posted by: southslope at November 19, 2009 3:32 PM in response to Development Watch: Turnaround at 424 Waverly Avenue

CGmodern, That is how I usually do it as well (with solid core slabs) but they don't come cheap at 8' tall.

If you need extra heavy duty barn door hardware, Greschlers on 5th avenue sells 12' lengths. I picked up a set this week for a shop project and I was surprised how inexpensive it was.

Posted by: southslope at November 18, 2009 12:42 PM in response to Plywood Sheet for a Door?

Plywood is bad for this application and solid wood edge glued is even worse.

Rosenzweig Lumber sells a product called lite ply that is made up of cross-banded basswood with 1/8" Italian poplar faces and 1/8 " between layers. The piece that I am holding in my hand is 1.5" thick that is made of three layers of basswood (3/8") thick and four layers of Italian poplar.

Because it is cross-banded (the strips of wood alternate directions) it is very stable and flat. The basswood is very light as well.

Pingpong tables are made from flake or mdf. 5x10 is a stock size in the industry- just not at home depot.

Posted by: southslope at November 18, 2009 9:51 AM in response to Plywood Sheet for a Door?

Hey, I am making the doors for that place. You've got to see the inside and side yard- HOT!

Posted by: southslope at November 13, 2009 2:15 PM in response to StreetLevel: Cortelyou Market, Wine Bar Coming Along

What type of metal is it, steel?

Tung oil works very well as it quenches the metal as it is a penetrating type of finish as is boiled linseed oil. Most polyurethanes are long-chain polymers and it is a topical finish which stays on the surface (not so good).

There are some clear lacquers formulated specifically for metal.

If it can be removed... clear powder coating an excellent finish for something that gets hot. Evernu dose this. They have an ad in the Brownstoner Directory.

Posted by: southslope at November 13, 2009 9:08 AM in response to Metal Window Frames

You have to know which type of finish was previously applied.

Finishes that are multi-component such as two part polyurethanes, epoxies, and conversion varnish need to be stripped and then reapplied as Arkady said. The active word in her post is "set" which refers to the cross-linking that takes place as that type of finish cures.

Most off the self polyurethanes, water bournes, and oils rely on a mechanical bond (from abrasion) for adhesion.

Shellac and nitrocellulose (lacquers) will re-dissolve into themselves upon contact with the previous coat.

Test an inconspicuous area before you do the whole thing.

Posted by: southslope at November 11, 2009 6:21 PM in response to Wood Countertop

I hear that southslope woodworks is alright ;)

Posted by: southslope at November 9, 2009 7:20 PM in response to Landmark Doors

Butcher block is made by laminating face strips of wood together so that the edge (quartersawn face) is the work surface. Wood is harder on the quartersawn (edge)face therefore it makes for a better work surface. Also, the wood will expand and contract more on the thickness than the width, contributing to a more stable construction. FWIW: I have been told that old school butcher blocks were made end grain to absorb the impact of a meat cleaver and produced a better cut in meat as the knife went into the fibers of the wood.

Since you are doing oak (white, I hope) a wire-brushing before finishing will produce a richer look. If you want darker, the aniline dye stain (from Sutherland Welles) is added to the topcoats of tung oil NOT to the unfinished wood.

Posted by: southslope at November 9, 2009 4:00 PM in response to Butcher Block Treatment

Tung oil. More specifically Sutherland Welles tung oil which is available at Mazzone hardware on Court Street. I believe most of their products are food-safe. Very easy to apply and maintain.

Posted by: southslope at November 9, 2009 1:49 PM in response to Butcher Block Treatment

Omar and Bella of artisticwoodcrafts are great at this type of thing. Just be sure to have it made of a durable wood (not poplar, as it is prone to fungal growth).

Posted by: southslope at November 8, 2009 7:07 PM in response to Wooden Cornice Ornaments

The rating should be stamped on the foam boards, as they differ from one type to the next. I have a piece of the pink foam here that states 2" = R10, 4" = R20 . I think that green foam is lower in value and white is way less.

Posted by: southslope at November 2, 2009 9:35 AM in response to R Value of Stucco Styrofoam?

I am most impressed that you found someone that would work with Osmo (great product). It likes to go down thin- very thin . On a large surface I would use a squeegee. Great choice.

Posted by: southslope at November 1, 2009 8:49 PM in response to Great Floor Contractor

I throw it in my wood stove. gives good heat.

Posted by: southslope at October 31, 2009 1:36 PM in response to Creative Use of Leftover Floor?

Cork- finished with Osmo. soft, sustainable, forgiving.

Posted by: southslope at October 24, 2009 7:51 PM in response to Kitchen Floors

The chalk board paint that BenMoore sells is a water borne formulation (in quarts). A more industrial version is available at Abbott Paint and Varnish but it is only sold in gallons. A quart is more than enough for a refrigerator.

I used a black primer on 1/4" MDF and then applied the chalkboard paint on the last few I made for a resturant and they work very well.

Posted by: southslope at October 24, 2009 10:03 AM in response to Blackboard Panel for Fridge

I would do two layers of 1/2" in alternating directions or one layer diagonal to avoid squeaks (from seams overlaping) with a spread of adhesive or green glue between. but i've been told that i overbuild things.

Posted by: southslope at October 22, 2009 8:41 PM in response to Installing Wood Floors

Dave is right about the foam. be sure to use the formula for doors and windows (low expansion). I use an infrared thermometer to pinpoint the spot where the heat loss is occurring. Zero International (in the Bronx) has hundreds of different types of weather stripping and sealing systems for all types of doors and windows. The catalog is online.
Personally, I like spring bronze.

Posted by: southslope at October 22, 2009 9:51 AM in response to Winterizing Cafe Windows

love the corrugated idea. How 'bout glass. You can paint the back any colour you want or go with white lami. It is the easiest to clean.

Posted by: southslope at October 19, 2009 8:42 PM in response to Kitchen Backsplash

The one that I installed on my office door works very well. In fact I had to set it back a little bit because it overcompensated the spring hinges. You could use two- or go buy an ugly closer.

Posted by: southslope at October 19, 2009 2:04 PM in response to Soft close/open for large doors

The blum dampeners also come in a screw-in and drill in version. The drill in type requires a 10mm hole which I would install in the hinge side of the door or the door stop if you have a sufficient rebate. It's the one in the middle:

http://www.hardwaresource.com/Store_ViewProducts.asp?Cat=1248

Posted by: southslope at October 16, 2009 5:48 PM in response to Soft close/open for large doors

I can vouch for HappyDaddy's windows, as I have seen them in person and they work well. I can't overemphasize the importance of weather stripping as he mentioned. In a brownstone window more heat loss occurs due to convection not conduction or radiation. An insulated glass unit will help more with preventing heat gain and reducing sound transmission. FWIW the further apart the two panes of glass are, the more efficient the unit becomes, that is why storm windows are good- basically it is a 4" thick insulated glass unit.

Posted by: southslope at October 12, 2009 4:34 PM in response to New Double Glass in Old Windows?

The best finish for a radiator is powdercoating.

Ever-Nu on 20th Street can do this for you. It may need to be sandblasted first (which they do). It can be done in any color and sheen including clear and it will last forever.

Posted by: southslope at October 6, 2009 3:45 PM in response to Radiator Paint Color Options

The square spindle?

some are threaded others are not- depends how it sets. The standard spindle is for a 1.75" door. Yours must be less. I would do what dibs said to do. If you go to a locksmith, take the lockset with you as there are three spindle sizes and several different types.

Posted by: southslope at October 1, 2009 5:08 PM in response to Replace Door Handles

14th street.

Posted by: southslope at September 27, 2009 2:44 PM in response to Painting Outdoor Bay Window

My friend Josey Delgado only paints with Fine Paints of Europe. He painted the storefront of beer table on 7th Avenue this week. His number is 917.763.3073.

Posted by: southslope at September 27, 2009 1:16 PM in response to Painting Outdoor Bay Window

"As this is a bathroom, I would suggest tempered glass for your safety."

Laminated glass is much safer than tempered- especially in a bathroom. Tempered breaks into lots of little squares which hurt when you step on them barefoot. Laminated glass stays in place if it is broken.

The side windows on most cars are tempered and the windshield is laminated. I believe that Volvo is now using laminated glass on the side windows for added safety. I saw a Volvo in Park Slope the other day with an indentation in the shape of a boot. Apparently the break in was not successful.

Posted by: southslope at July 21, 2009 5:12 PM in response to Security Bar Alternatives?

Our standard on a front entry door is an insulated glass unit comprised of 1/4" laminated glass with a 1/4" spacer and another piece of 1/4" laminated glass. Basically the equivalent of two car windshields. Very secure. If you desire more opaque glass in the bathroom- you could use white lami, which is two pieces of glass bonded to a white piece of plastic, or the chicken-wire glass. Any glazier will make this- you just need to give him direction.

Tempered is like six times stronger. The only thing I don't like about it it that it breaks in to little squares, so that "mister bad guy" doesn't hurt himself getting in.

Posted by: southslope at July 21, 2009 12:24 AM in response to Security Bar Alternatives?

You are referring to the window glass and not the sash right?

My weapon of choice would be a glass scraper. Basically a 4" wide razor blade on a handle. Scrape with the glass wet. This will lubricate it so you don't scratch the glass.

Posted by: southslope at July 20, 2009 1:00 PM in response to Removing Paint Mist from Window?

we avoid brush stokes by spraying.

But if you have to brush... what the other two said will work. Lowering the surface tension of the finish will help it to self-level and retarding the flash time will help it flow. Thinner is a two edged sword as it will dry faster and let the brush strokes set. Naptha would be a better choice for an oil-based finish, but it is more about prep and technique.

Posted by: southslope at July 15, 2009 11:42 PM in response to No brush strokes when painting..

A door closer with a positive stop(PS)/ hold open feature will solve your problem as well. One advantage of such a closer is the "back check" feature. The back check will add resistance to the last 10 degrees of the door swing when opening (the resistance is adjustable), so the door can not be slammed into whatever is behind it. A hold open is a knob on the arm of the closer that will allow you to keep the door propped open via the closer arm, rather than jambing something under it.

Posted by: southslope at July 13, 2009 8:04 PM in response to High Doorstop Suggestion?

New mahogany paneling is upwards of $100/square foot. Depending on how it is fastened, it may be advisable to remove it and strip it off-site and then re-install.

Posted by: southslope at July 7, 2009 9:30 PM in response to Stripper for wood paneling?

Another vote for Osmo.

Depending on the topcoat you use, you may need to neutralize the stripper first- as many strippers contain waxes to keep them on the surface and slow the evaporation. Waxes will cause problems such as fisheyes on some products like lacquer or polys.

Posted by: southslope at July 1, 2009 12:51 PM in response to What to Apply after Stripping?

If I needed a perfect job (paying for a perfect job) I would run it in 20' lengths.

Posted by: southslope at June 28, 2009 3:59 PM in response to Beadboard Question

FWIW- 4 out of 5 entry doors we make are hung on the existing door enframement. Quite often a new door jamb and/or transom was attached/added to the original enframement and it salvageable (although probably paint grade wood). Fabricating a new one will at least double the cost of the fabrication.

Posted by: southslope at June 26, 2009 8:03 PM in response to LPC-Approved Door Maker? Cont'd

BTW- Omar used to work for Tamer before he went out on his own.

Posted by: southslope at June 26, 2009 7:59 PM in response to Wood Front Doors

+2" width, +1" height

Posted by: southslope at June 26, 2009 7:58 PM in response to Installing Doors

I believe that I see a track on the floor. The part that rides on the track is called a sheave. Oftentimes the axle or the wheel is broken inside the sheave. You can examine this be rolling the door beyond the half-way-point and lifting then tilting the door out of the jamb. Use a vacuum to clean the track inside the pocket (as plaster debris often falls off the inside of the lathe) and look for friction, such as bx that may be rubbing against the doors.

If the door has warped along the bottom rail, it will never stay straight on the track.

Posted by: southslope at June 26, 2009 7:54 PM in response to Pocket door

Have you called Omar yet? His number is 646.541.3409. He is very very good with repairs.

Posted by: southslope at June 26, 2009 12:56 PM in response to Wood Front Doors

southslope as in southslope woodworks.

Posted by: southslope at June 26, 2009 12:01 AM in response to Prospect Heights Landmarked!

The shop fabricating the doors should provide you with shop drawings for submittal to LPC (including a door section, elevation, and moulding profiles). I find that it helps when it is on my titleblock. Also attached should be: a photo of the existing conditions, a photo of the adjacent property (on either side), and the color sample.

You, as the home owner, should be able to submit the aforementioned items and receive a permit rather quickly.

Posted by: southslope at June 25, 2009 1:08 PM in response to LPC-Approved Door Maker?

Nate doesn't do restoration work. But thank you very much ParkSlope66.

Posted by: southslope at June 25, 2009 12:04 AM in response to Wood Kitchen Cabinets