Check out Farrow's Cream - by Farrow & Ball. That brand actually has beautiful colors that you can have custom matched by Benjamin More.
I think Rob is right that yellows can be difficult because they look so dramatically different with different lights, but having said that, I love yellow and have several yellows (all Farrow & Ball's) in my house. Good luck!

Posted by: Ray at October 29, 2009 2:17 PM in response to Yellow With Wood

Simons and Gracious Home have several.

Posted by: Ray at October 19, 2009 10:07 PM in response to Staircase Thingy

I think 3/4" is standard for bathroom vanities, 1 1/4" standard for kitchen counters.
The thickness differential make for a very different look and overall the price differential shouldn't be that great. See what you currently have and if you like it, don't go for anything thinner.
Good luck.

Posted by: Ray at October 5, 2009 8:43 PM in response to Width for Counter Top

In my experience: lower costs, but extra fees that made the total bills higher rather than lower. I changed back to ConEdison/Natural Gas right away.

Posted by: Ray at September 16, 2009 9:48 PM in response to ESCOs: U.S. Energy Savings

Thanks a lot! I assume I don't have to dig as long as I'm happy having the patio level higher as a result of the layers of gravel, sand and pavers/stone, right?

Posted by: Ray at August 6, 2009 6:23 PM in response to Making a Patio

Thanks all. I think I will give it a try. Worst case scenario, the materials will be in and I'll have to hire someone.
How much do I need to dig? Or rather, how many layers of gravel/sand do I need, and how thick should they be?
Thanks so much!

Posted by: Ray at August 6, 2009 1:43 PM in response to Making a Patio

Thanks.
I need to cover the floor (which is about 12" below where I expect it to be) with some layers of gravel/sand before laying pavers or stone. I looked at using stone, and the quote for a 10 x 10 space came at 5,000. I have no idea if that figure reflects the cost or not, as I've never done this work myself that it is a lot more than I want to spend. I figure the materials would be no more than 1,000. Am I wrong?
Arkady, how deep do you think I need to dig? The current floor level is about 1.5 to 2 feet from the door that leads to the garden. I have a drain in the center of the garden and it's all pitched towards the drain already, but I could elevate the area where I want the patio, as I currently have climb two steps (about 20") to go from the garden into the house.
Also I don't have a cellar underneath - this may be totally irelevant but suggests to me I could dig as much as I need.
Thanks!

Posted by: Ray at August 5, 2009 2:37 PM in response to Making a Patio

For the stoop stairs, Buscarello has a good reputation.
For my interior wooden staircase I used Soxco and I'm pretty happy with their work. Also dealing with them was a pleasure, which I cannot think of another contractor or subcontractor that I would say the same of...

Posted by: Ray at August 4, 2009 5:19 PM in response to ISO Stair Fixer

Approach the seller (in writing) directly and tell them you are interested in their property, but do not want to deal with their broker (they certainly have a horrible reputation, and you may have specific reasons too). Ask them if they would deal with you directly, or if you have a broker you trust, see if they'd speak with him/her. This is not exactly a good time to be selling, I bet they will try to accommodate you. Also note most contracts include an exclusivity agreement only for some time - you may want to ask about that too, A&H won't tell you but the sellers may say when their contract (or at least that clause) expires.
Good luck.

Posted by: Ray at May 6, 2009 2:21 PM in response to Aguayo & Huebener broker?

Go ahead and make your offer. Put it in writing, and if, as you say, your low offer might be insulting, just explain how you came up with your figure. Chances are, if your logic is correct, they will counter offer. What can you lose? At worse you will have made them understand the property may not be as valuable as they think or wish, and they'll be better prepared to entertain low offers in the future.
Unless the broker is your mother, you can forget about anyone in the middle helping you. Brokers (like so many other people) work for themselves, for their commission.

Posted by: Ray at May 6, 2009 2:15 PM in response to buyers broker for...?

Agree the layout is not good... looks like a 1 bedroom + 2 offices. One of the offices doubles as laundry room (see the washer&dryer in the corner?). Definitely not thoughtful at all... could have placed the W&D inside the L-shaped closet, next to the shower.
Pretty building and I like the street but the interior not so much.

Posted by: Ray at April 8, 2009 1:05 PM in response to Co-op of the Day: 40 Remsen Street

You could try sending them back - even though they often say no returns they may take them back after charging a high re-stocking fee.

Posted by: Ray at March 10, 2009 12:18 PM in response to Glass tile 50% discount

Buying the right housing shouldn't be so difficult - you will need to ask your electrician about each location where you want to install recessed lights. Basically you need to choose the trim size you'd like to look at. Other than that, you electrician should be able to tell you if you need IC/non-IC housings, new construction/remodel etc.
You can indeed save a lot, first because you are more likely to ask for discounts shop around for better prices than your contractor. Also, you will save whichever amount you'd normally pay your contractor for his time if he were to coordinate and order all that stuff - I assume around 20%
If you are interested in the potential savings, care a lot for details and have a bit of time, I'd say buy yourself everything you can handle. You may want to stick with retailers that have good return policies - in case.
Good luck!

Posted by: Ray at March 1, 2009 1:21 PM in response to Material Purchases - Renovation

Looks gorgeous. I think I am going to see it this weekend.
The problem with these buildings is that they are really expensive to maintain in the outside. If this building is made up of apartments it could have many more of them, making the maintenance easier... which would be a killer in a place such as the Mountak, with so few share holders... the Mountak needs urgent work (the fences are a disaster) and I bet the upkeeping charges will keep a lot of potential buyers away.

Posted by: Ray at February 25, 2009 2:52 PM in response to The Union League Club-House

In the inside this apt seems to be really special, and the building is simply gorgeous - I love to show it to all my out-of-town friends.
However, the inside of the common areas were relatively recently "updated" without any concern for aesthetics. I've gone into the building via both the 'private' apartment entrance (to look at another unit that was for sale) and through the club entrance (main door) and in both cases I got the same feeling: the space was redesigned to fit new items (eg. elevators) without much concern for aesthetics.
Also at some point the club, which I think owned the building, was in such terrible financial stress that had to sell some of the space above (hence the apartments) and I wonder if they are financially in better shape now. Otherwise the upkeep of this wonderful building may fall into the laps of the apartment owners, not an appealing prospect.
Not for me then.. but I am still happy to see it everyday on my way to and back from work.

Posted by: Ray at February 25, 2009 1:41 PM in response to Condo of the Day: Montauk Club Mega-Spread

Thanks!

Posted by: Ray at February 24, 2009 10:10 PM in response to Does Caesarstone chip?

RE people don't work for sellers. They don't work for buyers either. They work for themselves, and some (yours sounds like one them) will do anything to get their fee.
If you think he did something illegal or unethical, you can report him to REBNY.
I agree with many comments above: communicate only in writing and always via your lawyer. Your $850 is money spent that is potentially buying you a lot of money saved (who knows how much really the repairs would cost, in my experience inspectors have very conservative estimates) and time... which in this case can only work in your favor.

If you really like the house and want to get it, be firm on your offer and be ready to walk. Prices are moving in your favor.

Posted by: Ray at February 23, 2009 10:13 PM in response to Real Estate Agents Ethics

One idea that is not good for everyone but you may want to consider... gates are made up of two parts, the actual gate and a smaller part that it closes into. Use only the gate part, screw it to the wall. Now 'tie' to the newel such gate; you could use one of those baby-proofed things that are used to keep cabinet doors closed. You may end up never actually opening the gate and just climbing over it, which is what so many parents soon start doing, rather than bothering to open the gates. If so, you could use one of those ties that are used by electricians, you can cut them but cannot open them.
Just an idea.

Posted by: Ray at February 23, 2009 9:52 PM in response to Baby Gates and Brownstone Stairs

Induction is far more efficient than gas and electric. In some ways it's also safer (no combustion, only the pots get hot - the surface is not so, and often times they have a sensor that will turn it off if, for example, you remove the pot). Note induction is different than ceramic surfaces that are essentially electric cooktops (even though they look the same).
You do need special pots (the ones you have now may work though).
There is a bit of a learning curve associated to induction but I didn't think it was a big deal... I love my induction cooktop, it's fast, reliable and safe. I changed (from gas) a few years back and I've never looked back.
I recommend that you talk about this with someone that owns one and uses it regularly. You may want to visit a showroom and try one out. Then decide for yourself.
I do love mine!

Posted by: Ray at January 16, 2009 10:58 PM in response to Induction or electric cooktop?

Thanks all. I guess rather than aggressive I should have said assertive. Thanks,
Ray

Posted by: Ray at December 1, 2008 5:19 PM in response to Aggressive lawyer

Thanks all.

Posted by: Ray at October 30, 2008 9:43 AM in response to Power Wash for brick wall

Sorry, i meant the photos make the house look lovely. Long day today... isn't it surprising after more than 100 posts and the high price none noticing the lack of photos for bathrooms? The kitchen photo doesn't make me confident on what one will find regarding bathrooms and mechanicals.

Posted by: Ray at October 13, 2008 5:48 PM in response to House of the Day: 448 6th Street

This house looks really pretty, the facade is lovely and given the central staircase I don't think the narrowness is such a big deal. Still, no photos of the bathrooms, no mention of mechanicals, no powder room in the parlor... I bet it needs more than cosmetic work. Even though the photos make the photos look lovely the cost is really way too high, but I am sure the owners know it. I wonder when it will see and how much it will go for.

Posted by: Ray at October 13, 2008 5:34 PM in response to House of the Day: 448 6th Street

From my own experience, water damages far more than fire does. Keep in mind that when you start demolishing you may find such a horrible state of affairs that the only reasonable way forward is to fully gut the house. I had that type of problem in mine and ended up having to replace EVERYTHING except the brick walls: all floors and beams had to be replaced. Not a single one stayed. It was horribly expensive, a shock.

Posted by: Ray at October 13, 2008 5:07 PM in response to question for the 'house doctors'

Congratulations Brownstoner, and thanks a lot for the site. For me it's a very valuable tool, and at times a great source of amusement too!

Posted by: Ray at October 13, 2008 5:03 PM in response to Closing Bell: Brownstoner Turns 4

Thanks, but who is Sirina?

Posted by: Ray at October 12, 2008 9:48 PM in response to Installing Sprinklers

What do you mean no guarantee? Did you have a contract with your contractor? Are you sure he did the lining himself and not one of his subs? If you had a contract with him, read it carefully and see what it says about the quality of work. Also read what exactly he was supposed to do, and make sure you understand what should have been done.
Even though it's been a few years, if he is still in business he should be approached to discuss this.
I just relined my chimneys with stainless steel liner (lifetime guarantee for the liner, I think 10 year guarantee for the work itself).

Posted by: Ray at October 7, 2008 1:35 PM in response to Thermocrete

I don't know this company, but have had forced air systems in several brownstones in the past with very little success wrt comfort & efficiency.
Good luck!

Posted by: Ray at October 7, 2008 1:25 PM in response to victory bros. heating comments?

What type of place are you installing it in?

Posted by: Ray at October 6, 2008 9:35 PM in response to victory bros. heating comments?

What did you have them relined with? Many companies provide a guarantee with their services, including a lifetime guarantee for the products used. What exactly did you have done?

Posted by: Ray at October 6, 2008 9:33 PM in response to Thermocrete

FromPhilly, thank you so much!!!
Ray

Posted by: Ray at October 3, 2008 9:47 PM in response to Recessed lighting tips

Related to this... do any of you know of a source to learn about the spacing and generally the number of lights you need in a given space?
Thanks,
Ray

Posted by: Ray at October 1, 2008 3:41 PM in response to Recessed lighting tips

You can write to the DEP and request a water pressure test - this cost $250 and will tell you what the water pressure is as it comes from the street into your building.
In some cases you can also install a pump that will increase the pressure inside your building. You should speak with a mechanical engineer or a good plumber.
Good luck!

Posted by: Ray at September 30, 2008 9:31 PM in response to low water pressure in 10 unit coop

Dragonetti has done good work for me too. You can find them in the web.

Posted by: Ray at September 23, 2008 10:17 PM in response to Tree Removal Recommendation

The last time I moved the moving company made a fairly big dent to a wall, I asked them to fix it right away (my landlord was coming the next day to inspect) and they filled it in. I then sanded it and painted it. THe landlord didn't see it so that was the end of it.
I did learned their insurance covered for that kind of problem.
You should ask them to fix the damage, however small - unless it's so small that you cannot really see it, or unless there are so many of those that they don't stand out.

Posted by: Ray at July 30, 2008 10:48 PM in response to Movers and damage

This house is small compared to many other in Park Slope, has a tiny garden that is probably surounded by high walls, and the garage may be shared with the house next door... I think I saw this house when it was for sale four or five years ago. It looks nicer now but if memory serves the third floor had low ceilings, limited light and space. So basically two floors plus basement and 'attic'.
I don't think it's a bargain.

Posted by: Ray at July 30, 2008 2:11 PM in response to House of the Day: 31 Prospect Park West Revisited

If the neighbor doesn't have a valid complaint just forget it.
If you care for your relationship with him, and it's not too late, you could see if it's possible to have regular, scheduled pick ups for all the demolition to be taken away without using a dumpster. I have had this done in the past for exactly the same reason: a fire hydrant by my house and a garage next door (neither one could be blocked).

Posted by: Ray at July 28, 2008 10:31 PM in response to complaining neighbor

I guess I'm too naive for this forum.

For all you hostile people out: I wonder what you would have said if I had came to this forum saying
1. I am going to get a permit to renovate my basement.
2. With that permit on my window, I am going to gut the whole building (5 floors).
3. For more than 6 months (and counting) I will not bother to intruduce myself to my neighbors, will not bother to respond to their unthreatening approach.

Would you have cheered me and writen notes of hostility towards my neighbors?

Posted by: Ray at July 28, 2008 6:00 PM in response to work being done next door

I posted this because I want to know if it's common for people to file for a thing and do a different one. I think it's a fair question and I still hope someone will coment to that.

FYI, nobody lives in the house now, it was sold last year. The workers are secretive and don't really respond to questions or pass on our details to the owner (either that or the owner has decided not to call back). Whoever is doing the work will be my neighbour so I have no interest in tainting the relationship before it actually starts.

The way I see it, rules and laws are not just something to give us (individuals) a headache but to protect the buildings and us (home owners, and residents, as a group). For that reason, I would certainly report them if I knew they were doing things not up to code that have a potential effect into my building. I certainly don't know if that is the case, and hope to never have to take that route.

Posted by: Ray at July 28, 2008 2:38 PM in response to work being done next door

I second Phripley, speak to more than one and make sure they know you are doing it. They are all interested in your business, and will negotiate their commission down if they sense they have to. Meanwhile remember they may only offer a considerably lower comission if you give them exclusive access to the sale.

I had a bad experience with Aguayo & Huebener, and since then I've learned of far worse by the same broker. I would stay away from them.

Posted by: Ray at July 25, 2008 1:28 PM in response to Park Slope co-op realtor recc's?

Thanks Master Plvmber!

Posted by: Ray at July 25, 2008 10:00 AM in response to Lefroy Brooks, Waterworks Fittings

I have often found good enough brokers in both large and smaller firms, but overall, the best brokers I've dealt with were employed by large firms. And the very worst (unethical, unprofessional) were employed by fairly small ones.

I would recommend you try to find a good individual that works for one of the larger firms. I agree that they seem to offer greater exposure, they also have better web sites and make the search easier for buyers.

Posted by: Ray at July 24, 2008 4:23 PM in response to Park Slope co-op realtor recc's?

Thanks all.
I really like one of LB and one of Waterworks' lines. Sadly, Restoration Hardware doesn't make anything like those.
LB and Waterworks are actually similarly priced, and I wondered if anyone had an input on their quality. I like their lines, but don't know if the extra cost is worth it.

Posted by: Ray at July 24, 2008 4:07 PM in response to Lefroy Brooks, Waterworks Fittings

Yes, some people have been. I don't know how it all ended but would love to hear from others.

Posted by: Ray at July 21, 2008 4:15 PM in response to National Architectural Trust easement -- tax question

If the plumbing and electric work are recently updated I wouldn't do it, just spruce it up - lots of buyers do not mind doing cosmetic work.
Otherwise it deppends on what shape the rest of the house is in as well as very many other variables.

Posted by: Ray at July 21, 2008 4:14 PM in response to How much will a new kitchen increase the value of my house?

You can use a ladder to reach the upper branches.
The other option is this: put some blankets or sheets on the floor around the base of the trunk and shake the tree gently. The ones that fall from the top may get bruised, but you can still eat them if you hurry, or just use them for cooking and making preserves or compotes.
Pears are delicious and work great with chocolate. Enjoy!

Posted by: Ray at July 20, 2008 9:27 PM in response to how to pick pears from tree

Thanks Brooklynguy, I was curious.
It's shocking to read about the different preferences people have.
No trees on the front of my house because of the mess the leaves make? Boy, I would try to never get a female gymko close to my house but complaining about the leaves I just think is too much.

Posted by: Ray at July 16, 2008 9:28 PM in response to Street Trees

I wanted a tree in front of my building but the parks dept wouldn't approve of it. They did explain the reasons and added I could have one planted in front of my next door neighbor's. I went for it. I didn't occur to me the neighbour may not like that...

I am curious, why would it be improper to request for a beautiful tree on the streets?

Posted by: Ray at July 16, 2008 2:25 PM in response to Street Trees

ALL kitchen counter slabs are mined and finished at 3 centimeters, which is about 1 1/4" thick. With the recession, we are seeing more and more of 2 cm stone, which comes mainly from the orient. The thinner stone (33% thinner) can't take the punishment that the 3 cm stone can. Don't do it just to save a buck!

Posted by: STEPHENWANGEL at October 12, 2009 4:28 PM in response to Width for Counter Top

OK, wait a second. I am painting two rooms in Farrow's Cream right now, and it's a cream with a lot of orange in it. Not a yellow.

I would recommend Dayroom Yellow by Farrow & Ball. You can see the swatch online to get a general idea, and you can get a color card and see the paint actually painted on wood in their showroom and buy a sample pot for $6 or whatever it is in their Soho retail store. If you see a few yellows you like, get sample pots of them all, because colors can look dramatically different in different surroundings.

Then, shhhhhh, just get it made up at Benjamin Moore. They will tell you it might not be the same, but it will be. I have done this a couple times because I needed a finish F&B didn't have. Bring them the color card.

If you have a resale license (or know someone who does) and don't have to pay retail, the flat finish in the real Farrow & Ball is lovely on old plaster walls and it's about the same price as Benjamin Moore.

Do not use the Aura base, use the regular Benjamin Moore Regal base.

Posted by: mopar at October 29, 2009 3:54 PM in response to Yellow With Wood

Oh yeah -- whatever you do, make sure you test with actual paint on your walls first. It's crucial. Especially with yellows, which do have a reputation for being difficult.

Posted by: mopar at October 29, 2009 3:56 PM in response to Yellow With Wood

Oops, I mean get it made up at Janovic. Sorry! (They own Benjamin Moore now.)

Posted by: mopar at October 29, 2009 3:58 PM in response to Yellow With Wood

Benjamin Moore also has a beige called Linen White which looks oddly like a dusty, dusky yellow when placed against white, though it will look like beige next to a stronger color.

Posted by: mopar at October 29, 2009 4:04 PM in response to Yellow With Wood

Thanks, everyone for all the input, especially Mopar, you really went above and beyond! Linen white has been a perennial favorite of mine and I totally agree about a lighter sage, but I think this place needs grounding with a rich and deep yet soothing golden yellow.

I can't tell you how many sample pots I've painted on the wall... Some were instant rejects, but I thought at the time a yellow like some of the lighter colors would work but there is just too much woodwork to support such a light hue (I have about 80 total linear feet of wall at 11'-3" tall. 16' is cabinetry with white doors, 25' is woodwork to about 10"-6" tall, so over half of the walls are either white or dark walnut in color). Based on your comments I'm going to take another look at the Farrow and Ball colors. Again, thanks everyone!

Posted by: bessie2 at October 29, 2009 5:22 PM in response to Yellow With Wood

Berkshire Hathaway owns Benjamin Moore, not Janovic.

Posted by: daveinbedstuy at October 29, 2009 5:45 PM in response to Yellow With Wood

Colors are funny in that a small sample never reflects what the color will look like over the entire surface. I recommend that after you've chosen a color and a finish you have the painter paint a 4' x 4' minimum swatch adjacent to any bordering materials. This is the only way to make a choice. Ed Kopel Architects

Posted by: edkopel at October 29, 2009 5:47 PM in response to Yellow With Wood

Good lord, I mean Benjamin Moore bought Janovic. My brain is scrambled.

Posted by: mopar at October 29, 2009 6:00 PM in response to Yellow With Wood

"What's your favorite color for a brownstone parlor floor?"

I always thought floors should be some shade of brown. :-)

Love BM linen white myself, have always used it somewhere. But it's not yellow.

Posted by: denton at October 29, 2009 6:01 PM in response to Yellow With Wood