you can recoat poly.prep by cleaning and sanding as you said. try to feather-out the brush strokes in to the area you are not coating; otherwise you may leave a small ridge.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at November 11, 2009 4:51 PM in response to Wood Countertop

shutters can easily be sent out for stripping. when they come back- no paint -no lead! start fresh from the raw wood.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at November 11, 2009 6:57 AM in response to Keeping Brownstone Shutters?

check out www.Bristolfinish.com
this is a two part acrylic urethane which has held up very well for us- much better the the regular otc marine varnishes

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at November 3, 2009 4:20 PM in response to Exterior Wood Finish

do not use Peel a Way ONE on mahogany/walnut. PA1 is essentially lye, and will chemically discolor your wood, and change its PH, so finishing or painting could be a problem. Peel a Way SEVEN, is a different chemical (NMP) and does not have those issues. PA7 does have a long dwell time, so you might want to try it- but do compare it to Rock Miracle, which works much faster. And remember, anything strong enough to take paint off of wood is not harmless, don't be fooled by "non-toxic" claims.treat paint removers with care.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at August 25, 2009 6:58 AM in response to Stripping Moldings

pig three: go to DCA website . follow links to regulations. read their rules about home improvement licenses required in NYC. read about their enforcement authority if someone who is supposed have a home improvement license doesn't have it. see how that conforms to what you are saying. (and remember it refers to a business)

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at June 14, 2009 8:52 AM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs

Any business doing a construction, repair, or remodeling project for over $200 is supposed to have a Home Improvement License, in NYC.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at June 13, 2009 7:28 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs

may be a common tactic for them. They once came into my shop posing as customers, asked a bunch of questions, went outside to confer, and then returned to identify themselves. They ended up giving me 5 violations, all of which I was able to overturn because they were without merit. So, my impression is that their inspectors are sneaky (and arrogant), and uninformed about their own regulations!

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at June 13, 2009 7:11 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs

stripping doors usually costs $175-225.
stripping , prepping, patching, sanding, staining, sealing and topcoating runs $400- 600 per door. depends on size, style, and detail.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at June 8, 2009 5:44 PM in response to Stripping Old Wood Doors

here's a trick you can try: coat the handrail with some shellac. After it's dried ( give it a day), go ahead and strip it with paint remover, and/or lacquer thinner. The shellac helps bind the paint flecks and they will pull out easier.
Also, try using metal bristle "toothbrushes" instead of steel wool.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at May 29, 2009 1:58 PM in response to Best way to finish???

Peel away 6 is a "weaker" version from 7. Active stripping ingredient is a solvent-NMP. This type of stripper takes a long time to work (hours, sometime days) the smell of it lingers and permeates everything. It's also not too effective on varnished surfaces; work better on paint.
You will need to "wash it off" using alcohol., or water with vinegar.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at May 11, 2009 6:58 AM in response to Peel Away 6

We've stripped a few tin ceilings using the wet chemical method. works out fine.
www.WeStripWood.com
718 783 4112

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at April 28, 2009 4:58 PM in response to Tin Ceiling Restoration

there's a big difference between dipping in a "hot tank" (which is a lye solution at about 130 degrees) and dipping, or presoaking in a cold solvent ( standard methylene chloride paint remover at room temp)
The lye bath, or caustic bath, is what is used in the first steps in paper production. wood is left in the bath until the wood fibers start to disintegrate . SO when you use the process for paint stripping, great care is needed not to keep the wood soaked for too long - the potential for damage and raising wood fibers is very real.Glue joints can come undone, as well. Also the caustic can change the ph of the wood and could create problems in the finishing phase.
Cold solvent is a much less harsh method. It is often used on fine furniture because of that. The wood is left in a much better state, but either way , you will need to prep the wood surface.
And regardless of the method used to strip paint, a increasing concern is the disposal of the hazardous lead paint waste.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at March 31, 2009 6:30 PM in response to Hand or Dip Stripper?

I'm curious why you picked a place in Jersey to strip your shutters, when there are three or four local places to choose from?
Was it price ( even with the zipcar)?
Do you know the method of stripping ( hot tank dip, cold solvent dip, by hand)?
Do you know how the stripper handles the hazardous lead paint waste?

Thanks.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at March 30, 2009 3:27 PM in response to SHUTTER TO THINK

there are a couple around - DeGamba in Brooklyn, Park Slope Paint Strippers in Brooklyn, Dip n Strip in New Jersey, and Strip Quick in Staten Island www.RefinishNY.com

Besides quality of work and pricing, I'd be concerned how they deal with the hazardous lead paint waste

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at March 29, 2009 5:40 AM in response to Demolition and stripping

I always put a " contact" note in the windshield when I double park, so I don't block anyone in.
Double parking on side streets ( except with a school or Fire Station) has been going on for ever. Since tickets are usually not issued, wouldn't that make it a defacto legal practice.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at March 27, 2009 4:13 PM in response to Ticketed for Double Parking

sorry, it's www.RefinishNY.com
718 783 4112

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at March 11, 2009 11:41 AM in response to Stripping interior moldings

We charge $175 for a single panel door, and $200 for multiple panel, for doors stripped in our shop.
Moldings stripped on location can run $20-25 per linear ft. Add another $10-15 for custom finishing.
And I'll second the notion that restoring existing woodwork is alot more "green" than replacing. No demo- no landfill- no manufacturing new- no transporting.
www.RefinshNY.com

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at March 11, 2009 6:59 AM in response to Stripping interior moldings

stripping old painted moldings on location generally runs about $20-25 per linear ft. You can buy new moldings for alot less, even $5 per ft; although unusual profiles, bolection moldings, and compound moldings can cost much more. The real problem is trying to remove the old moldings without damaging the plaster walls. There is cost involved in carefully removing old moldings, and re-installing new molding. Also, new wood moldings are not like the old growth wood moldings you'd find in a 150 year old house. Changing them out should really be a last choice.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at February 17, 2009 7:35 AM in response to Restore or Replace?

scuff sand the oak, use an appropriate color gel stain to overglaze the wood to match the pine color, and then topcoat.

Posted by: ParkSlopePS at February 3, 2009 7:49 AM in response to Old Pine vs. New Oak

Smokychimp,

You are an architect. I have respect for your posts in the past and probably will continue into the future. Please describe how a property owner can general contract work to his/her property without a GC license or HIC license. I'm sure we can agree that is legal? I'm not attempting to advise how to have work done illegally. I'm pointing out it is possible to do work to your property in a legal manner without using someone who is licensed by the DCA. I'm sure we could also agree the many types of work can be legally done to a single family home without permits from the DOB. All the information is there for anyone willing to take the time. Peace to all.

Posted by: pig three at June 14, 2009 6:25 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs

I did extensive renovation work on a place in Manhattan using a contractor who was also a friend of mine. He was not licensed by DCA, and said the only advantage (for him) of being licensed was the added protection he'd get if he ever got sued. As Slick said, an unlicensed contractor can't enforce a contract.

Posted by: Iris at June 15, 2009 9:56 AM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs

its funny as hell that i always refer to the HIC license as the hot dog vendors license... in the daily news today they reported a crackdown against fraudulent hot dog vendor licenses..lol..fits the bloomberg pattern of give tax breaks to guys like rattner, and hammer the little guyswho cant afford to defend themselves

Posted by: eman1234 at June 15, 2009 9:07 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs

My neighbor's contractor just got busted for a small unpermitted sidewalk repair. The contractor was fined $800 AND if he didn't present his valid HIC license right there and then they were going to ARREST HIM and COMPOUND HIS TRUCK.

There are several trades that are not required to have HIC licenses. Besides plumbers and electricians who have their own separate oversight... wall paper hangers, floor sanders and refinishers, painters, kitchen designers, window installers, are a few more.

One motivation for contractors to follow through and get their license... they have no standing in small claims court.

Posted by: IMBY at June 15, 2009 11:05 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs

Just got a double parking ticket myself. Usually cops in the neighborhood are lax about it since it's brooklyn and hard to find parking, but this particular traffic enforcement cop is known to be a d!*k. I'm afraid there's not much we can do. But this site may help cheer you up:
http://jimmyjustice4753.blogspot.com/

Posted by: zero at July 9, 2009 3:33 PM in response to Ticketed for Double Parking

thanks for the comment on Peelaway. I actually just picked up Smart Srip which is made by the makers of Peelaway and is supposed to work well on wood moldings. I'll let you know how it does.

Posted by: djd007nyc at August 29, 2009 7:28 PM in response to Stripping Moldings

There is a place in Hackensack, NJ that will strip just about anything. I used them for all my doors and molding and they did a great job. No mess and smell and no worry about your health. Ask for Lou.

DIP & STRIP
106 Frederick St
Hackensack, NJ 07601-5231
(201) 487-1115

Posted by: brau at September 1, 2009 1:40 PM in response to Stripping Moldings

There is a place in Hackensack, NJ that will strip just about anything. I used them for all my doors and molding and they did a great job. No mess and smell and no worry about your health. Ask for Lou.

DIP & STRIP
106 Frederick St
Hackensack, NJ 07601-5231
(201) 487-1115

Posted by: brau at September 1, 2009 1:40 PM in response to Stripping Moldings

dgeamba stripping in parkslope did some stipping work for me in my house. I have to say he did a gerat job on my moldings and doors. then we had him do the shutters. I was very happy with all the work to date! give john a call 917 299 6960.

chech them out at Degambastripping.com

Posted by: gsxr1 at September 2, 2009 11:09 AM in response to Stripping Moldings

1) which rock miracle product?
2) what is difference between peel away 6 and smart strip?

Posted by: renojl at September 7, 2009 12:00 PM in response to Stripping Moldings