Master Plvmber's Profile
- John Cataneo
- 2006?
- Owner of Gateway Plumbing and Heating
- Male
- 40
- http://www.GatewayPlumbing.com
Author's Posts
March 26, 2009
Boiler and Heating Rebates.
I attended a seminar at National Grid’s offices yesterday that detailed some of the rebates and incentives currently being offered.
Of particular interest (to me anyway) is the oil-to-natural gas conversion boiler being given for $699 up to 245,000 BTUs.
A steam boiler of this size normally costs about $2,700 to purchase outright.
Of course, installation and options are priced separately.
http://www.burnham.com/independ_boiler.htm
If the conversion includes the installation of an indirect water heater, an additional $300 rebate is paid to the customer.
http://www.htproducts.com/literature/lp-81.pdf
Mid efficiency upgrades:
For customers currently using gas for heating, a boiler upgrade to 85% efficiency or more, up to 300,000 BTUs pays a rebate of $500.
Boilers 300,000-499,000 BTUs at 85% efficiency pay the customer $1,000.
http://www.burnham.com/pvg_scg.htm
High efficiency upgrades:
Hot water heating system boilers that are upgraded to 90% efficient or greater units, up to 300,000 BTUs pay a $1,000 rebate.
Boilers sized 301,000-499,000 BTUs pay $1,500.
http://www.triangletube.com/
In addition to this, the federal government is offering a 30% rebate on the installation of a boiler of this type with a cap at $1,500.
Indirect-fired water heaters which are rapidly increasing in popularity, installed as part of a conversion OR an existing gas customer’s upgrade pay $300.
http://www.htproducts.com/literature/lp-81.pdf
Steam boilers rated at 82% efficiency (must have an intermittent ignition system, no pilot light) replaced as a gas-to-gas unit pay $200.
http://www.burnham.com/independ_boiler.htm
The installation of an outdoor boiler reset control will pay the client $100.
http://www.tekmarcontrols.com/literature/acrobat/d279.pdf
Replacing steam traps in a two-pipe steam heating system will pay $25 per trap.
http://rcwapp.itt.com/SS_F-T-FEATURES-ADV-DISADV.asp
To qualify for these rebates, it is not necessary to use a National Grid “authorized” contractor. Hiring a plumber or heating contractor licensed by the NYC DOB is all that is required.
Here’s one:
http://www.GatewayPlumbing.com
February 22, 2009
Mrs. Plvmber is watching Oscars.
Wife is watching the Oscars and I'm not even allowed to talk.
Here's something much more interesting (if the link works). A recent boiler installation of mine in Fort Greene:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/ciaony/Steamboilercontrolslabeled.jpg
February 5, 2009
Sweet New Steam Boiler
Sweet New Steam Boiler
This is what a replacement steam boiler looks like from the front.
Notice several things:
• The piping is black steel that is screwed together. Steam-carrying pipes should not be made of copper.
• Two vertical pipes come from the boiler and then drop down into a larger horizontal pipe as recommended by manufacturer.
• The vertical pipes that go up into the system are not between the two vertical boiler pipes. They are immediately to the left. This is important, believe it or not.
• The main electrical shut off switch is clearly labeled in red and accessible.
• The boiler is located close to the chimney.
• The return line behind the boiler has been replaced with copper.
• The automatic water feeder feeds the return pipe, not the boiler.
• The fresh water feed line is protected from boiler water contamination by a backflow preventor and check valve.
• A skim valve and plug are installed on the right side of the boiler to allow for removal of the inevitable collection of oils on top of the boiler water. The price of every steam boiler replacement must include a return trip after two weeks of use for skimming, inspection and tightening.
• On the lower left side, a secondary low water cut off device set in the piping protects the boiler from dry-fire and total loss of new boiler.
• The boiler piping includes union fittings for easy disassembly making future replacements and service simple jobs.
The left side is a whole other post and another picture.
January 26, 2009
Hi-efficiency on the cheap(er).
This is the working man's version of the High Efficiency Boiler post here: http://www.brownstoner.com/forum/archives/2009/01/high_efficiency_1.php#comments
This installation will heat about 3,000 square feet and cleanly burn natural gas at 95% efficiency.
It is highly effective and serviceable.
Let me know when you're sick of my crap.
January 24, 2009
High Efficiency Boilers
This is a picture I thought I'd share showing a twin high efficiency boiler installation we just finished in a Brooklyn multi-family residence. A large oil-guzzling boiler was removed and these two flame-modulating natural gas boilers were put in its place.
Unlike standard fixed-flame units, these boilers are rated at 96% efficiency and each is capable of supplying 399,000 BTUs. They are manufactured by an American company called Triangle Tube and are among the most highly-regarded boilers of their type. Even when temperatures got into the single digits recently, the boilers never had to work more than to produce just 145-degree water. The old boiler used to make 190-plus-degree water which required a much higher rate of fuel usage.
In the center of the system is a hydraulic separator which allows for more effective distribution of the heated water and removes air and sediment, further increasing efficiency.
I split the system into smaller parts to use more efficient pumps of lower wattage and minimize the risk of system-wide loss of heat. The boilers are wired to a control that rotates them in and out of service as needed and temperature sensors in the building average the heat requirements of the 2nd and 4th of 5 floors.
These people wanted efficiency and they followed through to get it.
Yes, I'm bragging, but this is...
...Good stuff!
January 14, 2009
Your Heat & The Coming Cold
PSA: The coming day’s forecast is for real winter cold. Will your heating system keep up with outdoor air temperatures in the teens? Make sure the space around your radiators is clear to allow for air to circulate up from the floor so that it may be heated as it rises trough the vanes and releases out the top. This is critical to allow for what is called convection, one of three ways a radiator warms a living space.
Another way a radiator does its job is through conduction whereby surrounding solid surfaces are warmed and heat is released slowly to the room. And the third is by radiation: A human body, in the presence of a warm surface, releases less of its internal warmth than when in the presence of cold. This is where the advantages of radiant floor heating are evident, but you don’t need to warm your floors to experience radiant heat. In fact, most residences in Europe use wall-hung radiant panel radiators rather than expensive floor warming systems. Radiators that are covered and baseboard heaters provide little or no radiant heat. Bare cast iron radiators provide the most radiant energy in a room, but the newer modern panels do it in a much more attractive way and use much less space. Radiant energy is most efficient because it doesn’t need to release energy to the room. That being the case, the water running through the radiators needs to be heated less than for what it takes to heat by convection.
Too often, I see radiators being used as bookshelves or encapsulated by clothing, window drapes or furniture.Radiant energy has some of the same characteristics as light in that it needs a direct path to you for you to know it’s there. For instance, you get no radiant heat in a “shadow” created by a panel or radiator being blocked by a chair. Knowing how your radiators work may help keep your family warm in the coming days.
Master Plvmber
http://www.GatewayPlumbing.com
November 23, 2008
Great article on Green Building
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-007-prioritizing-green2014it-s-the-energy-stupid/?full_view=1
November 19, 2008
It's heating season for real. Is your boiler ready?
Did you forget about what it takes to keep your boiler running safely and efficiently throughout the heating season?
Here’s a primer for your gas-fired, steam-heating boiler:
Piping
No steam boiler should be piped with copper. All manufacturers recommend the use of threaded steal pipe and fittings when installing a steam boiler.
Burner tubes
In most gas boilers, fuel flows into tubes, mixes with air and is burned to heat the water contained in what is called the heat exchanger.
When dirt and dust build up on those burner tubes efficiency declines because complete combustion of the air/fuel mixture is hampered. As a result of rising levels of unburned fuel after the combustion process has taken place, carbon monoxide begins to rise proportionately.
The heat exchanger may also become coated with carbon brought on by the burning impurities creating far greater carbon monoxide risks.
Low water cut offs
There are two basic types of low water cut off devices: the float-type (most often used is the McDonnel-Miller model # 67) and probe-type (yours would probably be the PS-800 series also by McDonnel-Miller). The float type should be blown down (flushed) weekly. It is made to last for ten years. After that, get a new one. Bad things can happen when they fail.
The probe type should be disconnected from the boiler and cleaned and inspected annually. It is made to last fifteen years.
If you think you’ve been maintaining your boiler because every week or so you push down on that lever that lets out that dirty cruddy water, you’re wrong. You haven’t done much of anything for the boiler at all. That valve is there to maintain the low water cut off to which it is directly connected.
Fresh water corrodes a boiler. Every time you flush it out, you’re creating the need to add more fresh water. If that new water doesn’t boil right away, it does bad things to the cast iron and steel that contain it.
Flue and chimney
Flu piping and chimneys need to be looked at by someone who knows how a problem presents itself. Surface rust and discoloration are signs of something going wrong.
The causes are often one or a combination of the following: inadequate intake (or make-up) air for combustion, a collapsed or compromised chimney, or a serious issue inside the boiler.
The grey, metallic flue piping should connect to the boiler, its lowest point, and continue upward from there to the connection to the chimney. There it should be sealed to the bricks without gaps or holes in the penetration.
Skimming
Newer boilers need to be skimmed to get rid of the oil that lies on top of the water which prevents steam from rising and moving toward the pipes and radiators.
Every boiler contains an installation package naming a very specific connection factory-installed in the boiler called a skim port or surface blow-off location where the skimming procedure is best performed. It is the installer’s duty to screw a pipe and valve into that connection to allow for the safe and effective removal of oils from the boiler water.
If this is not done, efficiency, boiler longevity and system balance suffer.
In the boilers I see, about one in four has any provision for skimming installed.
Our installations include a new valve and follow-up skimming service after 2 weeks of use when the oils have collected and are easily removed.
Pressure
Steam heating systems operate on the principle that steam pressure created in the boiler moves the gas (the steam) to areas of low pressure throughout the building. Areas of low pressure are created by adding air vents in places like the ends of radiators and piping runs. It doesn’t take a lot of pressure to do this, little more than just enough to be different from one end to the other of the system. That being the case, having the boiler run long enough to make more pressure than is necessary is nothing but an expensive waste of fuel and money.
A trained boiler mechanic and technician knows how to set the pressure regulating device, found on every steam boiler, properly.
The device is mounted on a curled length of pipe called a pigtail which protects it from the hot steam in the boiler. The pigtail should be made of brass (yellow metal in color). If yours is made of steel (black in color) have it replaced or at least flushed clean. They inevitably clog and fail.
While I'm on a roll (rant?) here:
A word on Water Feeders
Increasing occurrences of having to add water to a steam boiler is NOT a reason to buy an automatic water feeder.
If your boiler is less than 400,000 BTUs (in your 1-to-3-family building, your boiler is probably less than 400,000 BTUs) and you’re adding water more than about every two weeks, you’ve got a problem that needs to be identified and repaired. Adding a water feeder to deal with it would be like putting a band aid on a gunshot wound. You haven’t solved your problem.
Water feeders have their place and their people.
I happen to be a fan of the Hydrolevel VXT model.
There are countless benefits to their digital display (in number of gallons fed) and their flexibility made possible by their settable flow rate options (how much water per feed cycle) and its lockout feature which effectively prevents things like flooding a house while the occupants are away.
October 18, 2008
BE ADVISED: RECALL ON BOILER PARTS RISK OF CARBON MONOXIDE HAZARD
BE ADVISED: RECALL ON BOILER PARTS
RISK OF CARBON MONOXIDE HAZARD
A recall has been issued by the manufacturer of automatic electronic vent dampers, a part found on nearly all steam and hot water boilers, sold between August 2007 and July 2008.
Popular boiler manufacturers that use this part include the following:
Weil-McLain, HydroTherm, Crown, Lochinvar, Smith, New Yorker, Burnham, Peerless, Laars and others. Please follow the link below for complete list.
Please note that under this program the installing contractor is not responsible for providing free replacement vent dampers. Responsibility lies with the homeowner to follow the instructions provided through the recall program.
Effikal, the manufacturer, has set up a special website and hotline to handle this. Please see below.
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09008.html
Gateway Plumbing and Heating will replace the vent dampers free of charge for its clients where they installed those units meeting the criteria for replacement.
We ask that the client pre-arrange for the new damper to be on site at the time of our arrival. We also ask if you haven’t yet scheduled your paid annual maintenance service, or your free first year service, you have the new vent damper on site for that date.
If you have questions about this program or the recalled part, please do not call our office. Rather, call the number in the recall notice or post your questions here as others may have the same concerns.
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09008.html
Thank you for your cooperation.
John Cataneo
(Master Plvmber)
VP
Gateway Plumbing and Heating
www.GatewayPlumbing.com
September 17, 2008
Know any plumbing mechanics?
PLUMBING & HEATING MECHANICS
Now hiring qualified plumbing and heating mechanics for work in the NYC area. Applicants must have a minimum 5 continuous years experience & should be familiar with the installation, troubleshooting & repair of hot water & steam heating systems as well as all domestic plumbing. Clean driver’s license & references required. Drug test and background checks performed at employer’s expense. Excellent pay, complete benefits package including paid vacation & holidays. Steady work & over time for reliable, presentable & qualified applicants.
Call 800-723-6890 or fax resume: 718-815-3418
Author's Comments
interesting...you're the guy from that 19th St job? (I don't remember the client right now)
Nice to see you, too!
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 15, 2009 12:43 AM in response to Heat Stays On, Thermostat Broke?
You can tell all that from where you are, eman? Damn, you're good!
;-)
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 14, 2009 7:23 PM in response to Heat Stays On, Thermostat Broke?
There are other things it can be besides a bad thermostat. The fact that someone turned the boiler off entirely because they couldn't fix it kind of suggests it's a bigger problem, like a piping or wiring screw up.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 14, 2009 6:13 PM in response to Heat Stays On, Thermostat Broke?
I took the 3-day course and most of the other I=B=R classes. Is there something in particular you want to know?
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 14, 2009 7:36 AM in response to ISO: I=B=R Guide to Residential
It doesn't sound like your water heater at all, unless you've got some kind of tankless system. It sounds like a cross connection: cold water getting into your hot water piping.
Me:
http://www.GatewayPlumbing.com
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 13, 2009 6:52 AM in response to Hot water problem. Help!
Generally, a 2" gas line is used to carry 1,000,000 BTUs.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 12, 2009 5:14 PM in response to Gas Supply for Boiler
Using water heaters to make heat is very illegal in New York City.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 12, 2009 4:31 PM in response to Water Temp Variation Question
What if it's something else that's wrong: Like a faulty tempering valve at the boiler or water heater? What if there's a cross connection, like through another single lever shower valve, mixing slugs of cool water into the hot line? Or failed check valve on a recirculation line?
Didn't think of THAT, did ya'?
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 10, 2009 6:25 PM in response to Water Temp Variation Question
I won't quote you a price here, but is it steam or hot water heat?
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 10, 2009 5:00 PM in response to New Boiler for 8 Unit Coop
You could have a bad low water cut off/water feeder or the boiler is surging (usually due to dirty water, sometimes due to incorrect piping) and pushing the water out as it runs and the pressure rises. If that were the case, the boiler would shut off and the water would return slowly.
Pic would help.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 7, 2009 6:34 AM in response to Heating System Not Auto Filling
FYI:
Oversizing your hot water pipes could mean having to wait longer for hot water if you're not creating a recirculation line.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 5, 2009 5:03 PM in response to Pipe Sizing
No one is going to be able to diagnose this definitively via computer. Sounds like a vent damper thing, but it can be several other things.
I'm not encouraged by your vent damper being disconnected, though. You need to fix or replace that quickly.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 4, 2009 3:59 PM in response to Furnace 'False Starts'
Bobjohn, that is a terribly inefficient and costly way to operate your boiler. For SHAME!
Steam Man, maybe CGmodern is hearing a circulator relay pull in while the boiler is already up to temperature?
Is this steam or hot water? Standing pilot ignition or intermittent? We need to know these things!
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 3, 2009 6:06 PM in response to Furnace 'False Starts'
You've probably dislodged the valve's washer from the stem and need to replace or reattach it...or replace the valve, even better.
Either way, you'll have to shut the water main, drain the plumbing down, and work on the valve.
DIY if you feel up to the challenge.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 2, 2009 4:23 PM in response to Plumbing Issue
If no electricians buy the ad, there will be nothing to put in the category. Empty categories would just amount to clutter.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 1, 2009 11:27 AM in response to Where Are the Electricians?
Burnham Classic Radiators:
http://www.burnham.com/products/baseboard-radiators/classic
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 28, 2009 6:26 PM in response to New "Antique" Steam Radiators
It's rarely ever a radiator problem. Most often the cause of banging in a steam system is found in the horizontal main piping or by failed steam traps or boiler controls.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 27, 2009 11:37 PM in response to Those Clanging Pipes
You mean like this?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gatewayplumbing/4051743460/
I've done a few of them.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 27, 2009 9:55 PM in response to Add an Air Vent? Round Two...
If by "solar hot water system" you mean beer, then yes.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 27, 2009 6:02 PM in response to Add an Air Vent? Round Two...
If multiple radiators on one riser aren't getting hot, you should be checking for other conditions that may be compromising the distribution mains such as improper pipe pitch, lack of adequate air venting, run time, etc.
Me:
http://www.GatewayPlumbing.com
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 27, 2009 6:00 PM in response to Uneven Heat in Building
Denton, it's not the meter, it's to the service valve that you're responsible for.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 27, 2009 9:16 AM in response to Gas Leak
Steam Man speaks the truth....except one thing: I would use a 1-1/4" x 1/2" x 1-1/4" heel tee (instead of the 1-1/4" x 1/4" fittings) and use a Gorton #2.
But that's just me and I haven't slept in days...partly because I'm up all night scheming about how best to utilize my alter ego eman powers for evil.
(MP squints and shifts eyes from side to side)
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 27, 2009 8:14 AM in response to Add an Air Vent? Round Two...
Denton, if you call Nat Grid they will shut you off and it will be a nightmare.
It never goes any other way. And they won't fix it. They will tell you to call a plumber, anyway. I trust the guys that put your boiler in know what they're doing? I would call them, or if I can help you, let me know.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 27, 2009 8:04 AM in response to Gas Leak
I second that.
And the post goes on to list all the benefits of adding the vent...what are we really looking for here?
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 26, 2009 7:09 PM in response to Add an Air Vent? Round Two...
Oh, I see. They're convectors. Very well, then. Carry on.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 26, 2009 6:03 PM in response to Add Air Vent?
I hope you don't have air vents at the tops of your radiators like you've drawn in the picture.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 26, 2009 5:55 PM in response to Add Air Vent?
Sizing the boiler to the system has a lot to do with how well the whole thing will work in the future.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 22, 2009 2:56 PM in response to Steam Heat on Top Floor
No stock answer. It depends on the appliance (boiler or water heater, terms are not interchangeable) and its approved proximity to combustible surfaces.
Look up the make and model and see what the manufacturer says.
Some water heaters and boilers are even made specifically for "closet installations."
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 21, 2009 3:29 PM in response to Wood Floor under Water Heater?
So, if my guys came and did something that didn't solve the problem, why didn't you call and state that? Balancing is a often a process and there is rarely ever a quick fix, as I said.
Anyway, you've called a lot of plumbers and are asking for more because you prefer not to wait a week. I strongly suggest you pick a heating contractor you trust and give him some room to do his thing.
For the record, we've got a lot of people calling with no heat/hot water or need boiler replacements now before it gets too cold. We have to prioritize them over balancing and maintenance issues.
Thanks for calling.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 20, 2009 10:22 PM in response to Steam Heat on Top Floor
You're throwing away money replacing them. They are far superior to crappy baseboard heaters, which don't offer any radiant heat, only convection.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 20, 2009 7:13 PM in response to Replacing Radiators
My opinion is that steam is an unforgiving system of heating. There are too many variables to accurately answer your questions here although Steam Man knows what he's talking about and has offered solid replies.
You've already listed several individually valid causes for your heating imbalance and yours will not be a quick fix. What no one seems to have addressed that I can tell is the compatibility of your existing boiler to your system.
Just as the measurement of any volume of water can be expressed in gallons or pints, the volume of steam is measured in square feet. A heating system can process, i.e. convey and condense, only a finite and specific amount of steam which is determined by the surface area of the exposed piping and radiators. The output of the heating plant, or boiler, must match that value as closely as possible, best within about ten percent.
I'm willing to bet you've got a boiler big enough for one-and-a-half of your heating systems that short cycles when called for heat and squeezes steam into the first floor's piping and radiators like commuters on a 5pm F train.
You need a full evaluation of your heating system, which, done well, should cost you some money. Otherwise, you'll never know the whole story.
...and...as luck would have it...
That is a service my company performs. In fact I do it personally.
Just saying.
Me:
http://www.GatewayPlumbing.com
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 20, 2009 6:17 PM in response to Steam Heat on Top Floor
This has also been posted on HeatingHelp.com at least once, and this is the third time here, all by the same poster.
Dude, just buy a boiler already.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 20, 2009 5:55 PM in response to Boilers
Thanks, eman1234.
MrHancock,
Yes, they do, but for anything other than the run-of-the-mill single-oil-boiler-to-gas-boiler conversion I would check with the powers that be at Nat Grid and get a verbal confirmation on what they are willing to do for you and in what time frame.
The programs they put in place generally carry a short shelf life or get altered to some extent without telling a soul.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 18, 2009 9:36 PM in response to Question for MasterPlvmber
Then you should start by flushing the water out of the boiler and refilling it. As soon as you've finished that, turn up the thermostat to make the boiler run for a half hour or so. That will help take the corrosive properties out of the new boiler water.
Hope that helps.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 18, 2009 2:05 PM in response to Radiator Smell?
Eman, I respectfully disagree about the timing. My 6 service crews are replacing several boilers every week right now as the DOB and Nat Grid are allowing delayed/emergency filing as of October 1st.
Most boiler replacements and upgrades are done in a single day and the home may be without heat for as long as only 8 hours with a little supplemental manpower on my part.
National Grid's rebates on Burnham boilers have made them readily available in all sizes, luckily, like never before.
Be well,
John
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 17, 2009 9:17 PM in response to Boiler/Radiator
cmu, with all due respect (you're obviously an intelligent and educated gentleman), those western and southern homes are in climates that aren't nearly as harsh as ours in New York and New England. They use lesser heating systems because their demand allows it.
Petebklyn, I'm sorry I couldn't say. All thermostats have a different way of setting the anticipator.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 17, 2009 8:05 PM in response to Unbalanced Heating in 2-Family
It's a steam system if your radiators have little devices that make a hissing sound when the heat comes on . Also, the boiler will have a vertical glass tube, about 8 inches or so long, connected to it somewhere in plain sight.
Does that sound like what you have?
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 17, 2009 7:59 PM in response to Radiator Smell?
I install about one hundred gas boilers every year and I'm a big advocate for clean natural gas. But even I realize that ultimately it's a personal choice. If you feel you owe some loyalty to your oil supplier then you should stick with oil heat. If not, the process for converting has become painless and rewarding.
What I can say for sure, is that changing your radiators is RARELY ever the answer to heating problems.
Don't buy anything until someone who knows what they're talking about gives you some solid reasons why it would be a good idea.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 17, 2009 7:54 PM in response to Boiler/Radiator
Yes, cmu, dirt-collecting ductwork and seriously deficient relative humidity are wicked awesome features in a "luxury" home.
Ever see sales literature for a "luxury" home? Wonder why a water-based heating systems are an upcharge?
Keep 'em coming. Your opinions are gold.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 17, 2009 12:54 AM in response to Unbalanced Heating in 2-Family
Measure all that you can of the copper tube and aluminum fin sizes and compare it Slant/Fin enclosures. They usually fit most other manufacturer's stuff.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 16, 2009 6:41 PM in response to Baseboard Heating Covers
Brenda nailed it. Works EVERY time.
Wyckoff, you've got a fine understanding of the process of steam heating for a (I'm assuming) non pro.
Except one thing. The air vents close when steam reaches them because they're filled with fluid that expands and closes the air passage.
It's a temperature thing, not necessarily a pressure thing (though high pressure can close them too). Good work!
There are other factors that determine balance, lately the most common one I see is everyone's brand new fancy schmancy programmable thermostat is factory-set to work with a forced air system (something like 85% of US homes are heated with forced crappy air), which requires shorter, more frequent cycles than steam.
Find the anticipator setting or the one that says you're using "hydronic" or "water-based" heating.
Me:
http://www.GatewayPlumbing.com
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 16, 2009 6:38 PM in response to Unbalanced Heating in 2-Family
You need more pressure!
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 16, 2009 6:25 PM in response to Boiler/heating system repair ref
Is it a steam system?
You could have scuzzy boiler water.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 16, 2009 6:24 PM in response to Radiator Smell?
Thank you!
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 14, 2009 5:28 PM in response to Rec for Boiler Inspection
You can increase the output of some radiators by the use of covers designed and placed in a certain way. By directing cool airflow to the bottom and warm airflow out the top, you can actually promote convection more than what would naturally occur.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 14, 2009 5:24 PM in response to Radiator Covers' Impact?
I don't know what that's about. The "wrong" thermocouple wouldn't be able to be attached to the gas valve at valve, so I doubt anyone sold you the wrong part; maybe the wrong part to address the problem, but that's another story.
My company is Gateway Plumbing and Heating. We do annual Service Agreements for $185 and I feel pretty good about what we do for people's boilers.
....Just saying.
http://www.GatewayPlumbing.com
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 14, 2009 9:30 AM in response to Rec for Boiler Inspection
Bobjohn, it sounds like you've got a hot water heating system which is a very flexible and adaptable way to heat a building.
There are several dual-zone thermostats and radiator controls available to deal with a condition such as yours, or it might be as simple as adjusting your radiator shut-off valves at each space until you get it right (don't try that with steam).
Me:
http://www.GatewayPlumbing.com
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 14, 2009 8:46 AM in response to Temperature in Tenant's Apt.
Are you looking for an inspection to make sure the boiler is up to code? Or a boiler service to make sure it is functioning properly?
They are very different procedures.
And please know that having even the most detailed maintenance schedule in place is no guarantee your boiler will never malfunction.
Me:
http://www.GatewayPlumbing.com
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 14, 2009 8:40 AM in response to Rec for Boiler Inspection
"The convector radiators require a shorter fire time from the boiler to heat up, but also cool faster and call for more heat faster than the standard iron radiators."
If both these radiators are made of cast iron, this statement is simply not true.
Is there some problem you're trying to address by changing your radiators?
Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 13, 2009 10:33 PM in response to Convector vs Standard
Responses to Author's Forum Comments
If you can't install a hot water recirculating line from the Top Floor down to the equipment, they make special equipment that can go under a sink with a circulator on the hot water source which can work in the same manner. eman & MP are right, put something in no matter what size risers!! Actually, code states that a building 4 stories or more in height or buildings with the developed lenght of hot water piping from the source to the farthest fixture needs to have a recirculating line. As far as the info. you gave me, an engineer would be better suited to calculate properly the size of the piping.
Posted by: Brooklyn Plumber at November 6, 2009 3:31 PM in response to Pipe Sizing
if your low water cutoff/ automatic water feed is a float type control, the float is probably stuck in the full position...flush out the water 3-4 times in rapid succession while rapping the side of the float sharply with the wooden handle of a hammer..that should free up the float...
it may also be that the switch has fused and needs to be replaced... if you have a probe typelwco, it needs to be cleaned or replaced
the bigger question is where is the water going?...is it leaking out of the return lines or pouring out of the main vents..you should have your system checked out by a heating pro, since it is ill advised to endlessly add water to a steam boiler..you are treating the symptoms, not addressing the underlying problem
Posted by: eman1234 at November 7, 2009 9:21 AM in response to Heating System Not Auto Filling
I've always been a water softener user, I just want to know the difference of the two.
http://www.thehardwarecity.com/?sku=5314513
Posted by: blackeyed at November 10, 2009 3:36 AM in response to Water softener system vs. filtration system
gas or oil?
Posted by: eman1234 at November 10, 2009 6:53 PM in response to New Boiler for 8 Unit Coop
I have the same problem in my apartment (I rent) but I know for a fact that other tenants suffer the same instant hot/cold/hot fluctuations. And it's really bad -ice cold to scalding hot, and vice versa, in literally 1 second. NO warning. Showering during peak times is really precarious. LL refuses to address the issue "just wake up earlier to avoid the rush" We also have clogged vent stacks which makes the kitchen sink drain gurgle almost constantly with methane probably, LL says " yeah yeah, just put a drain stopper in it"
:-(
Posted by: bowl of dicks at November 10, 2009 6:57 PM in response to Water Temp Variation Question
You can turn down the temp on the hot water heater so you don't get scalded.
Posted by: mopar at November 10, 2009 7:40 PM in response to Water Temp Variation Question
The http://www.warmyourfloor.com sun touch floor heating products are very good and can be used in warming the tile floors and also kitchens
Posted by: masonmorales12 at November 11, 2009 4:07 AM in response to Suntouch Heating Mats Query
We have the same problem in a 3-apt building. Individual water heaters in each apt that also do baseboard heat so temp can't be turned down. So when it gies to hot it's scalding. I worry about my kid getting burned.
Posted by: kramer at November 11, 2009 4:02 PM in response to Water Temp Variation Question
Master Plvmber,
I am interested to know if this is something that you would recommend in a small 4 unit building and separately gas metered for each unit? I am wringing my hands over a solution for an upcoming renovation.
Posted by: rholtjr at November 11, 2009 5:36 PM in response to High Efficiency Boilers
Using water heaters to make heat is very illegal in New York City.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 12, 2009 4:31 PM in response to Water Temp Variation Question
Mpcmpc is talking specifically about electronic zone valves in a hot water heating system. Even more specifically, I would think; Honeywell electronic zone valves. Not everyone has them.
Posted by: Master Plvmber at November 20, 2009 4:58 PM in response to Heating Issues