Boy, a lot's happened since I chimed in. As an architect, it's kind of my obligation to say "do it on the up-and-up" and file with the DOB. Also, I can't tell you how many times I've seen stop work order violations for work without a permit, especially recently, with hefty fines attached. The DOB has been very active on following up on complaints, so if a neighbor calls 311 and complains that you are doing the work without a permit - and trust me, this happens ALL the time - the DOB will be there within a few days, ready to hand out violations.

Further, if the owner later decides to do some work that does require filing, and this work is discovered, the owner's looking at thousands of dollars in fines.

Not to mention that the OP stated the basement is over 50% above ground, has a 7' ceiling and wants to do "do all the related legal stuff." So tybur6, I'm not kidding you. I'm answering the OP's question as it was asked.

And finally, bobjohn, a reputable architect should be able to go through the house and point out the obvious code violations as part of the service of preparing the DOB filing.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP

Posted by: JimHill at November 19, 2009 1:05 PM in response to Cost of Bathroom in Basement

At the very least, you need to hire an architect to submit plans and DOB forms indicating the new fixtures and walls, as well as making sure that it is in fact 50% above ground and therefore a basement, not a cellar.

If the DOB needs to come in and inspect, and you have obvious code violations, yes, they will point them out and give you trouble for them.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP

Posted by: JimHill at November 18, 2009 1:26 PM in response to Cost of Bathroom in Basement

What I have found in terms of getting recons is that the first examiner will rarely, if ever, let something go if it could in any way be considered against the code. It's their job to interpret and enforce the code. They do not have the leeway to decide if a case warrants an exception. That's strictly reserved for the chief plan examiner. I've even been told by at least one examiner that the case I was arguing was valid, but that he could not make the exception, and that if I went for the recon, it would be granted by the chief examiner.

So if the examiner denies it, take it above his head to the chief.

Jim Hill

Posted by: JimHill at November 9, 2009 9:05 AM in response to Stairs to Roof - Change C of O?

Another architect here. It IS rediculous, although I can see the reasoning (aside for NYC fundraising). You are creating access to the roof. If there is a fire, these stairs are therefore now part of the path of egress. Technically, you are changing the means of egress, and as far a the city is concerned, you need to update the C of O whenever you change use group, occupancy class or means of egress. Pursue the recon. I would think you would get it.

Posted by: JimHill at November 7, 2009 4:04 PM in response to Stairs to Roof - Change C of O?

Runtal only deals with hot water. Their sister company is Steam Radiator, which does steam, and which the OP has already looked at.

Posted by: JimHill at November 3, 2009 11:49 AM in response to Modern Steam Radiators

Having cut my teeth in residential architecture in the burbs, I can tell you that 2x4's at 16" o.c. is perfectly fine for two-three stories. Any structural engineer will tell you not to worry as long as the framing was done well.

In the burbs in our area, it continued to be the standard up to the mid-90's, not 70's, when it was replaced by 2x6's, not only because of the additional insulation, but also because the 2x4's were coming from such new growth trees that they were very unstable and subject to serious warpage. Contractors were throwing away huge amounts of them because they were so curved they couldn't be used for framing.

Now, in terms of your insulation, bully for you for using Icynene. It's a great product and does a great job of insulating between framing. It expands to fill all voids and hardens quickly so it doesn't get compressed and lose R value. In addition, it provides a vapor barrier which keep the moisture out of the insulation, preventing condensation within the walls. This barrier also prevents any air movement which fiberglass, or even cellulose does not. In addition to all that, it does provide a very high R-value per inch, exceeding code requirements within a 2x4 wall.

I think what you're seeing in this thread is an opinion biased by working in New York, where buildings are habitually over-structured in order to provide the required amount of fire prevention. If it weren't for fire issues, we wouldn't be building everything out of concrete block. There's no other reason why a three-story row house needs to have the same structural system as a 6-story apartment building.

Now, having said (ranted) all that, it wouldn't hurt to have the engineer look at your plans and make sure that the rest of the framing is sufficient, and to make sure that what was spec'd was actually installed. From your post, there's no reason to believe otherwise. After all, you didn't say that the plans called for 2x6's and the contractor installed 2x4's. It sounds to me like you're doing everything just fine. Just make sure the work is done well.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at November 3, 2009 11:46 AM in response to 2x4 Framed House

Another architect here. Ed's right, it's certainly possible, but it will take time to do.

To elaborate, though, I'd like to clear up one misconception I hear all the time. The C of O change is the last thing you would do as part of any job. It is a process that is begun essentially when all construction work is done and signed off by the architect and DOB. You can do the work and live in the house while in the process of obtaining the C of O. So while it may be a lengthy and tedious process, it has very little effect on your life while it's happening.

It also depends upon the intended use of the building. If it's multi-family and you intend to rent out a part of the building, then you'll need a C of O, or at the very least a temporary C of O until the real one's complete, to rent out units. This is also true if you intend to rent out a portion for a commerecial purpose, say a ground floor store or something like that.

So, in short, the C of O process is a pain, but don't let it stand in the way of doing what you want to with the building.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at November 3, 2009 11:26 AM in response to C of O Change

Oops. I Guess I didn't read the original post carefully enough. Sheehan is not the guy on TOH, that's Streaman. I have no idea who Sheehan is. Sorry for the confusion.

Posted by: JimHill at November 2, 2009 10:39 AM in response to Contractor Michael Sheehan?

Check out http://www.ocsind.com/cast_iron.html
and http://www.heatdepotengineers.com/products
The latter shows only hot water on their site, but I think they do steam also. Give them a call and ask.

Unfortunately, Aside from those and Steam Radiators, there are not a lot of options when it comes to steam heat.

It's something I've searched for many times, but have yet to find a good solution for. If you find something, by all means, post it here.

Posted by: JimHill at November 2, 2009 10:36 AM in response to Modern Steam Radiators

That is the guy on TOH. He doesn't bring it up, partially I thin because he's kind of sick of being known as that guy on TOH, but also because the project was a pain. He was brought in on the job to replace another guy who was two months behind, so he really had to hustle to get the job done. That may be why grand army got the ballbuster impression.

I had used him for a major renovation a year before that. He did a very good job. I'd be happy to use him again. He's opinionated, but he's got the experience to back it up. As an architect, my only complaint was that he made a few changes and added some things without first asking me. He discussed the ideas with the owners and they approved them. When I found out what he had done, I swallowed my ego a bit and realized that they were good ideas.

As I said, I'd be happy to work with him again. I know he and my clients are still good friends, and he's gone on to do renovations of their two wine stores in the slope.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at November 2, 2009 10:25 AM in response to Contractor Michael Sheehan?

The rigid insulations are usually 3-5 per inch. Your spray insulation guy was probably either knocking a competitor, or referring to the air seal. Some spray foam insulations form an impermeable vapor barrier that contributes greatly to its ability to stop heat penetration through air movement, which rigid foam, fiberglass, or denim, does not.

Having said that, 4 inches of rigid on the exterior is a lot. Usually one would use an inch or two on the outside, in addition to the stuff between the studs. If you're using masonry, a couple inches on the exterior and some on the interior between the furring strips is usually sufficient.

While it's great to superinsulate a home, there is a point of diminishing returns after which added insulation does very little relative to its cost.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at November 2, 2009 10:13 AM in response to R Value of Stucco Styrofoam?

We installed cork in our kitchen about 6 months ago. Put 4 coats of water based sealer on it. I absolutely love it. Having had kitchens with vinyl, ceramic, and oak, I would definitely say you can feel the difference between each type, and cork is the softest on your feet.

We installed over a plywood subfloor on top of which we laid an ardex topping layer. This gets troweled on and feels kind of rubbery as it's curing, then gets very hard, making for a great finish substrate.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP

Posted by: JimHill at October 26, 2009 8:30 AM in response to Kitchen Floors

No problem. Happy to help.

Posted by: JimHill at October 22, 2009 12:11 PM in response to Maximizing Square Footage

I agree that 20% is pretty high. If there is a LOT of detailing work like built-ins and custom work, then perhaps it's worth it. Most of my jobs have come in much less than that. I typically charge hourly for the whole thing. I provide an estimate that indicates the number of hours devoted to each phase, and state that the number is a not-to-exceed value, and almost always come in under that, and only bill for actual time spent. If it's my fault for underestimating the amount of time, then I eat the cost. If the owner makes changes that require extra time, then we try to provide an alternate number for those changes.

This provides my clients with the reassurance that the cost is directly related to the amount of work involved, and they know exactly what the maximum cost will be. It also provides them with the flexibility to decide how much service they really need, and determine a price based upon that before they enter a contract. I've been doing it this way for a number of years and it seems to work very well for all parties.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at October 21, 2009 5:40 PM in response to Architect Light or Heavy

I'd be happy to. Job's going slowly, so it could be a while.

Posted by: JimHill at October 21, 2009 11:17 AM in response to Kitchen Backsplash

66,

Good. Didn't want you to think I'm trying to one-up you. I
appreciate the ability to discuss this with someone else who has also been doing the research in earnest.

I've spoke to those people at the yard, Capsys, and a few others who do steel pre-fab. It's pretty much the same answer, either 20,000-25,000 square feet or a minimum of $400 per square foot. I couldn't believe the latter, but it's true, from a smaller pre-fabber in NYC.

100% agreed about the obstacles. The company I deal with has done this sort of thing here before, so I don't expect too much hassle. We'll need to file with NYC DOB for the whole thing, and then we'll need to do some coordination to make sure the NYS code comes into play, and of course the foundation will need to be filed and reviewed by NYC, as well as the inspections related to it.

I would appreciate the chance to talk with you directly outside of the forum, perhaps put our heads together and discuss the specifics, rather than bore our fellow brownstoners. If you don't mind, please email me directly at jim(at)urban-pioneering.com and we'll continue the discussion there.

Posted by: JimHill at October 20, 2009 4:19 PM in response to To Build, or Not

We're in the progress of doing an inexpensive kitchen where we specified a great, graphic wallpaper (just at the backsplash, everything else painted) that will get covered with clear glass.

Can't wait until it's finished to see it!

Posted by: JimHill at October 20, 2009 4:06 PM in response to Kitchen Backsplash

Not to engage in a pissing match, but that's not my understanding. I've spoken with the state code officials regarding exactly this. What follows is a quote from an email from an official in the NY State code enforcement division:
__________________________________________________________

The New York State Fire Prevention and Building Code Act, also known as Article 18 of the Executive Law, is the law that implemented the Uniform Fire Prevention and Building Code throughout New York State. Section 383(1) states in part that "The provisions of this article and of the uniform fire prevention and building code shall supersede any other provision of a general, special or local law, ordinance, administrative code, rule or regulation inconsistent or in conflict therewith..."

This means no municipality can have their own code. This section is followed by an exception that states the following:
c. That, in cities with a population of over one million, the existing building and fire prevention codes shall continue in full force and effect beyond January one, nineteen hundred eighty-four unless the council, after analysis and consultation with the building and fire officials of such cities, shall determine that said local code provisions are less stringent than the uniform code. Existing local statutory, regulatory and administrative laws and provisions of such cities shall continue in full force and effect unless the foregoing is determined by the council. Notwithstanding this paragraph, when such factory manufactured homes are intended for use as one or two family dwelling units or multiple dwellings of not more than two stories in height, provided such multiple dwellings are not intended for use as hotels or motels, the provisions of this article and of the uniform fire prevention and building code pertaining to factory manufactured homes shall supersede any other provision of general, special or local law, ordinance, administrative code, rule or regulation inconsistent or in conflict therewith.

[code official's commentary:]
In summary, subsection (c) allows New York City, because it has a population of more than one million, to enforce their code with the exception of factory manufactured homes that are intended for use as one or two family dwelling units or multiple dwellings of not more than two stories in height, not including hotels and motels. Factory manufactured homes that are intended for use as one or two family dwelling units or multiple dwellings of not more than two stories in height are required to comply with either the Residential Code of New York State(one- or two-family homes) or the Building Code of New York State (Three or more dwellings) as appropriate. Hotels, motels, and multiple dwellings more than two stories in height are subject to the New York City Building Code.
__________________________________________________________

The real key here is the last part, in the code official's commentary, where he states that New York City can enforce its code with the exception of factory manufactured homes that are intended for use as one or two family dwelling units or multiple dwellings of not more than two stories in height.

Posted by: JimHill at October 19, 2009 5:04 PM in response to To Build, or Not

66,

That's the funny part about pre-fab in NY. If it's a one or two-family structure, the city codes are overruled by the state, and the state is much more lenient.

This is something I've been researching and working with home manufacturers for a couple of years now to address. The per square foot costs are much less, but the real saver seems to be the timing. Construction time is cut in a third, sometimes quicker.

Posted by: JimHill at October 19, 2009 11:56 AM in response to To Build, or Not

I'm an architect and I can speak to lowering the existing floor. First let's talk about basement vs. Cellar vs. first floor.

A basement floor level is lower than grade outside, but no so low that a point halfway between floor and ceiling is below grade. If that point is below, then it's a cellar. If you walk up steps or walk in right on ground level, then it's a first floor.

Now, regardless of which it is, you might be able to lower the floor slab some, without underpinning. If you lower it below your foundation walls or below your neighbor's, then you need to underpin the existing foundation(s), which is costly, if not slightly risky.

As for converting it into a 4-unit, there are a whole host of issues related to that; sprinklers, zoning, code, etc.

Best advice is to hire an architect to see the building and advise you on all of these issues.

Posted by: JimHill at October 19, 2009 11:49 AM in response to Maximizing Square Footage

I'm an architect and I recommend Foro Marble for all my stone work. Incredible customer service.

Typically, they purchase the stone and you pay them for the stone and the fabrication, so I couldn't speak to the cost of having them do fabrication on stone you've purchased.

Call them at (718) 852-2322, ask for Joan, and tell her I sent you.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP

Posted by: JimHill at October 19, 2009 11:42 AM in response to Cost to Fabricate Granite

As another architect doing the design-build thing, I can say that there are definite possibilities to save doing it this way, but there is always the ability for an unscrupulous DB team to use the setup to their advantage, and it sounds like that may be the case here.

When we do a construction budget, we make sure it is completely inclusive, and there are no change orders unless the client originates the change or there are circumstances impossible to predict.

We also make sure the client knows he/she always has the opportunity to bid the same job out to other contractors in order to maintain the advantages of competitive bidding. If another contractor is lower and qualified to do the work, I'm happy to work with him/her. This keeps us honest and competitive.

I would suggest to your DB team that they give you the opportunity to do the same and that they either lower their price to match the lowest qualified bid (qualified being important because there are a lot of low-ballers that just hit you up later with change orders and end up costing more) or let you work with that contractor in a standard owner-contractor-architect relationship.

If your DB cannot do that, then walk away now. You may lose a little in costs but you'll gain a lot more in peace of mind and probably have a much better experience and results to go with it. In my experience, the relationship between you and your team is almost as important as the results.

Remember, this should be fun.

Posted by: JimHill at October 14, 2009 10:23 AM in response to Changing Design/Build Midstream?

Crownheights2007,

I've been working very hard to do just that. The trick here is that in NYC and the boroughs, in residential construction all bearing structure needs to be non-combustible, meaning no wood studs. All of the pre-fab builders in the country work in wood or have limits to what they can do in steel. Those that do work in steel do not do jobs less than 20,000 square feet. There are some custom modular builders that do smaller scale, but their costs are typically double the current expected minimum of $200 a foot, so they're not a viable option.

There are cases in which pre-fab can be used in NYC. The building needs to be 1 or 2 stories, or 1 or 2 families. In these cases, the state code, which allows wood construction (therefore pre-fab), actually overrides the city code and allows wood framing - but only if built as pre-fab.

As I've said, I've been researching this for a long time, and have yet to find a way. If someone could figure out a way to do small scale, metal framed pre-fab, they could corner the market on pre-fab rooftop additions and make a killing.

Posted by: JimHill at October 2, 2009 4:29 PM in response to Rooftop Renovation, Addition

If it truly is a two-family, which it should be to be configured how you describe, the wall should be a fire rated assembly, which something screwed to the railing definitely is not.

Short answer: non-compliant.

Posted by: JimHill at October 2, 2009 4:16 PM in response to Sketchy Wall

I'm an architect and I work hand-in-hand with my contractor to provide a detailed estimate covering everything from design and filing through construction and sign-off. We can visit your residence and quickly provide you with this kind of estimate at a time that is convenient for you.

As for the budget, we'll give you an honest estimate based upon the work required. Without seeing the conditions, it's impossible to say more than that.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at October 1, 2009 10:30 AM in response to Rooftop Renovation, Addition

I have a good friend who works for Corcoran, and a large part of her business is exactly that, so she wouldn't put it in "second gear". She's got such and outstanding energy level that I don't think she has second gear. She also owns a few high end rental properties herself, so she knows exactly what to look for in a tenant. She lives in Brooklyn and most of her work is in the slope and Dumbo. Call her and tell her I sent you:

Laura Denise-Milkowski
(212) 605-9347
ldm@corcoran.com

Posted by: JimHill at September 29, 2009 12:06 PM in response to Can you recommend a great agent?

I've recently done this two ways. One where we divided the tax lot into two zoning lots and two tax lots, and another where we actually divided it into one zoning lot and two tax lots. There are sometimes reasons to do it like this, depending upon the lot size and potential building configuration. I did all of the zoning calculations and diagrams, and used an expediter to file most of the paperwork, and the expediter hired a lawyer to prepare some exhibits, but the attorney's fees were very minor.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at September 24, 2009 5:40 PM in response to Tax Lot Divisions

I've been in negotiations with a number of fabricators. The catch is that it's got to be 1 or 2 family, or 1 or 2 stories, to qualify for the state code override that allows the fabricator to build in wood and have the units approved in the factory by the state. If you can qualify for that, then you're talking $85 a foot for a basic finished product. Add to that some bells and whistles like tankless water heaters, radiant floor, and added insulation, and you're up to the $100 mark. Of course that does not include the foundation, nor does it include shipping and crane. These latter two can add up to around $20,000 - $25,000.

The price savings is definitely there, as is the quality. In fact, the quality tends to be on par, if not better than site built as it's all built in a controlled environment with no exposure to the elements. No studs or plywood sitting in the rain, no piles of sheetrock soaking up ambient moisture.

But the real savings comes in the time factor. Building the house in a factory at the same time you're doing the foundation on site allows you to have the house delivered within weeks of completing the foundation, saving at least 6-8 months of rent or mortgage on the place you're living during the construction.

Posted by: JimHill at September 24, 2009 9:44 AM in response to Cost of Building?

15% is not unusual, but paying someone 2 or 3 months in advance is very risky. There's no reason he needs the money for your job right now. If he's insistent and you really don't want to lose him, then offer to make the deposit to his subs directly or put the amount in escrow until he's actually ready to start. Nevermind that $10,000 (or even $8,000) is probably more than he's paying the electrician and plumber for all of their work, let alone just the deposit, on a $55,000 job.

As an architect, I would strongly discourage anyone from putting down that sizable a deposit this far out. Most important of all, as DIBS said, check the references.

Posted by: JimHill at September 24, 2009 9:31 AM in response to Contractor Deposit-Too early?

As an architect, the number I generally hear from contractors is around $200 per foot for pretty basic stuff. I've even got one guy doing a new, two-family, 4,000 sf house with radiant floor heat, central a/c, quality windows, and a planted roof, all for about $180, but he was pretty hungry for the job at the time he made the deal. So figure at least 450k as OldManSam posted, and going up from there.

Whenever I do these numbers they strike me as very high, but that's where they end up coming in.

Now, there's another option. One that I mention to all my clients interested in new construction or additions. Pre-fab. Imagine being able to truck in a whole floor at a time. Imagine stacking those floors in just one or two days, going from foundation to 85% complete in less than one week.

One advantage of pre-fab is that we can build a completely custom designed home off-site, while the contractor is doing the foundation. The whole house could be built in as little as 6 weeks and be ready the day the foundations are complete and the rough utilities are run.

The other is of course cost. We spoke about $200 minimum costs. Cut that in half. That's what custom manufactured homes cost.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at September 23, 2009 10:28 AM in response to Cost of Building?

Is this still available? I would be happy to come pick it up. I called the cell number and left a message. Please call me at the number in that message.

Thank you

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at September 21, 2009 4:45 PM in response to Compost Tumbeler - Free

I'm an architect and I work hand-in-hand with my contractor to provide a detailed estimate covering everything from design and filing through construction and sign-off. We can visit your residence and quickly provide you with this kind of estimate at a time that is convenient for you.

As for the budget, we'll give you an honest estimate based upon the work required. Without seeing the conditions, it's impossible to say more than that.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at September 21, 2009 4:40 PM in response to Foundation Fixer?

I don't know if anyone will even see this, but I thought it might be fun to mention that I'm an architect and am currently in the process of renovating this home.

Believe it or not, it did look like this when I saw it right before the closing, when the owner still lived there. She had been in it for 50. At one point a long time ago, the owner took down the wall around the parlor and when they did that, added a layer of maple on top of the existing flooring, and re-did the kitchen.

The rest of the building is in great shape and the block is very nice. We'll be doing a little cosmetic work and opening up the parlor floor even more. If anyone's interested, I can post some pictures as the work is completed.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at September 21, 2009 1:17 PM in response to House of the Day: 177 Maple Street

I've used Mike Streaman of MRS, Inc. He's a good guy and did a great job on a park slope town house gut. You can see a picture of it on his web site (on the "about us" page: second from left) and has done some repeat business for the same client in his wine stores, also on the website.

He was also recently the featured contractor on This Old House, Brooklyn series, shortly after he completed our project. He doesn't try to be the least expensive, but he's worth his price, and then some.

I'd be happy to work with him again.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at September 17, 2009 10:45 AM in response to Contractor Rec. and Reviews

I would recommend Ronald Baker (718) 404-4572. He does good, solid work, is extremely conscientious about doing right by the client. I'm an architect and I've been recommending him for my jobs for years. He almost always gets the job because his prices are lower, but the quality of his work is still very high. Ron lives in the area and has a lot of experience in this kind of work. Please call him and tell him I sent you.

When it's a job that requires filing, and yours seems borderline depending upon the scope of the kitchen and bath renovation, we work hand-in-hand to provide a detailed estimate covering everything from design and filing through construction and sign-off.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at September 17, 2009 9:10 AM in response to Starting to Consider a Reno

Have you tried calling the Parks dept? We removed a bunch of branches from our co-op a couple of years ago and called for a pick up. They scheduled a pickup a few days later, came and chipped it on the spot.

Posted by: JimHill at September 14, 2009 2:34 PM in response to Chipper Rental?

Try calling Chuck Chernick:

Charles M. Chernick, J.D.
Arthur Chernick Co., Inc.
370 Lexington Ave. #1400
New York NY 10017

T:212-697-2147

They've been in the business for generations and they specialize in home and townhome insurance. I'm an architect and I've recommended him to my clients before, for insurance specifically geared towards homes during the construction process.

Chuck's excellent at what he does, and is very creative thinker. He'll get you insured the right way specifically for you.

Posted by: JimHill at September 10, 2009 9:06 AM in response to Renovation Insurance

Architect here. A recreation room is a very specific entity with the DOB. It is not considered habitable space because it does not meet light and air requirements. It is allowed to have a powder room with toilet and sink but no shower or tub. It cannot be used for a sleeping room or any other room considered "habitable space" by the DOB: kitchen , dining, living, etc. Afew more esoteric conditions but those are the big ones.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture

Posted by: JimHill at August 21, 2009 7:27 PM in response to "Livable" Cellars?

Linoleum is one of those great forgotten products. It went out of vogue when vinyl tile came in. At the time, linoleum was just a sheet good, so installation was difficult. Vinyl tiles were so easy to install that linoleum lagged behind.

However, some manufacturers are now making real linoleum tiles that are easy to install. Linoleum is a better product for the environment as it's 100% natural materials, naturally anti-bacterial, and doesn't offgas VOC's during the manufacturing process or after it's installed. From my standpoint, the only reason not to install it instead of vinyl is because vinyl's still cheaper, but not too much.

If you were to factor in a little more per square foot to offset your carbon footprint (not to mention the long term health impact), you'd find that the linoleum is a cheaper product.

Posted by: JimHill at August 20, 2009 12:01 PM in response to What kind of tiles are these?

I'm an architect and I've gotten quite a few calls lately from people doing FHA 203K loans for gutting brownstones. It's definitely the way to go if you need extra money for the renovation.

The loan is pretty easy to qualify for and has rates almost as good as, if not just the same as a standard 30 yr fixed. The main extra requirement is being able to provide a specific line-by-line bid which includes all costs associated with the renovation.

As an architect who works very closely with one contractor over and over again, this is exactly what we can provide. I won't plug myself too much, because I know that's not exactly what you were asking for, but if you'd like to know more about the process, feel free to contact me offline.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture
(917) 593-3038
jim(at)urban-pioneering.com

Posted by: JimHill at August 20, 2009 11:54 AM in response to financing SRO conversion

BH - check zoning code section 23-30: Lot area and width regulations: 23-32 & 23-33.

Posted by: JimHill at August 19, 2009 10:18 AM in response to Separating Lots

Actually, dibs, I'm not sure if it is permissible. The code states that the minimum lot width, at least in a residential district, is 18 feet.

There is a special provision for existing smaller lots, wherein a single or two-family home may be built upon existing small lots if it "was owned separately and individually from all other adjoining tracts of land, both on December 15, 1961, and on the date of application for a building permit". The owner might be able to divide the lot and then apply for the permit if she/he can satisfy the ownership requirement, but it could be interpreted that once the lot is combined to form a compliant lot, it cannot be subdivided to create a non-compliant one. That's one for which I'd recommend a pre-consideration, or at the very least an expediter that's already done exactly that.

On the other hand, a few weeks ago, I did write a whole diatribe on the potential of building in such a lot (http://www.brownstoner.com/forum/archives/2009/08/the_value_of_an.php). Come think of it now, that thread was started by the original poster, yanks21.

Yanks, if you're interested in pursuing this route, I would be happy to discuss it. Please call me directly.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture
(917) 593-3038

Posted by: JimHill at August 19, 2009 10:16 AM in response to Separating Lots

Wilso,

Thanks for the support. That's exactly my point. Anyone buying this kind of lot needs to know exactly what the potential is. The process of designing such a tight space is challenging but can be a lot of fun if people are willing to be creative. It's the challenging projects like this which keep it interesting.

Posted by: JimHill at August 10, 2009 1:42 PM in response to Value of Lot in South Slope?

Condo in manhattan? Yes, most likely you do, assuming you have elevator access to your floor.

You can also do what's known as an adaptable bathroom. The requirements are slightly less stringent than an accessible bathroom. NYC has some very specific designs which meet the adaptable requirements.

Also, although they are very similar, the ADA guidelines are not exactly the same as NYC local law 58, which is the actual law that governs accessibility.

You should speak with an architect about it. You'll need to hire one to do the reno if you're relocating or removing any of the fixtures, or adding any more.

You can contact me directly if you have further questions. My office is in Manhattan.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
Urban Pioneering Architecture
(646) 309-7259

Posted by: JimHill at August 7, 2009 4:02 PM in response to Toilet Stalls vs Water Closet

slopefarm,

Yes it is. Thank you very much. Just curious, may I ask how you saw it?

And yes, johnife, I realize that wasn't exactly what the question was, but I wanted to provide a possible method for estimating not only the value of the land but the potential costs associated with building on it, as I would think that would be a factor in the decision to buy the lot. I assumed that was the intent of the question. Being an architect, I'm predisposed to the idea of buying land for the sole purpose of building one's dream house on it.

And what's up with Rocky?

Posted by: JimHill at August 7, 2009 3:54 PM in response to Value of Lot in South Slope?

Architect here. Master Plumber, as usual, is correct. In a single bathroom in a residence, go by the water closet rules.

Curious, what type of building do you live in that you are required to meet ADA?

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP

Posted by: JimHill at August 7, 2009 2:16 PM in response to Toilet Stalls vs Water Closet

Architect here. I just looked at the zoning map for that area. Most of it is R6B, unless you're within 100 feet of the avenue, in which case it's R6A. R6B has an FAR of 2.0 and R6A is 3.0. Multiply that by the area, and there's your buildable area, so R6B gives you 2400 sq ft, and R6A gives you 3600 sq ft.

Standard new construction will probably be more like $200 per sq ft minimum for habitable space and around $125 to $150 for non (cellar). So R6B: 2400 x 200 = $480K plus cellar and R6A: 3600 x 200 = $720K plus basement.

Whenever I do these numbers they strike me as very high, but that's where they end up coming in.

Now, there's another option. One that I mention to all my clients interested in new construction or additions. Pre-fab. In your case, it could be perfect. The size limitation is just under 16 feet wide by 64 feet long. Imagine being able to truck in a whole floor at a time. Imagine stacking those floors in just one or two days, going from foundation to 85% complete in less than one week.

One advantage of pre-fab is that we can build a completely custom designed home off-site, while the contractor is doing the foundation. The whole house could be built in as little as 6 weeks and be ready the day the foundations are complete and the rough utilities are run.

The other is of course cost. We spoke about $200 minimum costs. Cut that in half. That's what custom manufactured homes cost.

I can tell you that as an architect, I would love the challenge and fun of designing a home to fit in a 12 foot wide lot. I've recently completed a major renovation of a 12 foot wide house on 14th between 5th and 6th aves. It turned out great. What was before a cramped, dark, awkward interior is now bright, open and beautiful.

If you're interested in purchasing this lot, I think it would be a great opportunity for you to build a unique, exciting and affordable home for yourself. How often do you get a chance to do that?

Sorry if this sounds like a snake oil sales pitch, but I can't help but get excited about what this could be. Feel free to call or email me directly to discuss this further.

Jim Hill, RA, LEED AP
jim(at)urban-pioneering.com
(917) 593-3038

Posted by: JimHill at August 7, 2009 2:06 PM in response to Value of Lot in South Slope?

vivante,

Thank you. I look forward to hearing from you.

Jim

Posted by: JimHill at August 6, 2009 5:41 PM in response to Adding a New Floor?

Try the Better Business Bureau. They helped me dispute and collect on a claim a few years ago.

Posted by: JimHill at August 4, 2009 4:02 PM in response to beckenstein fabric and interiors

Architectural Artifacts on 125th St, NYC
(aka Irreplaceable Artifacts, aka Demolition Depot)

Olde Good Things in Chelsea, 124 West 24th Street
Relocating to Union Square as soon as we close out the renovation project there, 5 E 16 st. I'm the architect working with them on the reno and we're basically just waiting on the awning guy and some DOB paperwork.

Posted by: JimHill at August 4, 2009 10:59 AM in response to architectural salvage places?

An amendment to my post from July: although I didn't like living near the BQE personally, I know plenty of people who have absolutely no problem with it. So go for it! There are lots of folks happily and healthfully living on the many blocks near the BQE.

Posted by: rabbit at November 17, 2009 2:25 PM in response to Enviromental Impact of BQE?

JimHill, thank you for explanation. Do you think the architect can take a look an point out at the "obvious violations" before DOB gets involved?

Posted by: bobjohn at November 18, 2009 2:44 PM in response to Cost of Bathroom in Basement

If single or 2 family house I wouldn't get the DOB involved.

Posted by: Petebklyn at November 18, 2009 3:21 PM in response to Cost of Bathroom in Basement

oh, is toilet and shower going to be lower than waste main that leaves the house? That is cost factor.

Posted by: Petebklyn at November 18, 2009 3:22 PM in response to Cost of Bathroom in Basement

Both of what Pete said.

Posted by: daveinbedstuy at November 18, 2009 3:33 PM in response to Cost of Bathroom in Basement

Petebklyn - it is above of the waste main.
Houses next to ours have batrooms and I believe they never had problems with waste coming back up.

Posted by: bobjohn at November 18, 2009 3:33 PM in response to Cost of Bathroom in Basement

No problem if it is above. What Pete was talking about is that if it was below you'd need a special pump for the drains.

Posted by: daveinbedstuy at November 18, 2009 3:39 PM in response to Cost of Bathroom in Basement

"hire an architect to submit plans and DOB"

Are you effing kidding me?! We're talking about a dumb bathroom and some non-structural walls-- No offense to your profession Mr. Jim Hill or the ridiculous City of New York -- but I'm thinking he should spend the money on a good plumber and electrician instead.

DIBS -- you know I'm pretty much a bleeding heart liberal, but this seems like a "make work" system for Architects and Engineers... am I right?

Posted by: tybur6 at November 18, 2009 4:02 PM in response to Cost of Bathroom in Basement

Also, remember if it is a 1-2 family and is not 4 storeys, you can use Romex and PVC drain pipe. NYC did move into the 20th Century last year.

Posted by: daveinbedstuy at November 18, 2009 4:06 PM in response to Cost of Bathroom in Basement

not in no landmark district should you try that non-contextual PVC.

Posted by: Petebklyn at November 18, 2009 4:11 PM in response to Cost of Bathroom in Basement