I agree with you - you want to put in light fixtures now.
Generally it is agreed that one light fixture hanging from the middle of the room is not the nicest lighting scheme. It tends to cast shadows in the corner of the room, making it look smaller.

You just need more layers of light - ie, better to have lots of sources, not just one. It doesn't have to be recessed lighting - there are lots, like sconces and stuff. There are heaps of books on this at the library.

Plus - make sure you have lots of power points where you need them! Nothing uglier than heaps of trailing cords.

Posted by: Frudo at October 29, 2009 9:36 AM in response to Thoughts on Recessed Lighting

I really like Farrow and Ball paint, although I've never tried it on a radiator. But apparently they can be used on radiators. This is on their website:

Question: Can radiators be painted?
Answer: Yes, Farrow & Ball Oil Eggshell can be used. Apply two coats directly onto the radiator. There may be some yellowing on pale colours with time.

At least this way you have a choice of colors. http://www.farrow-ball.com

Posted by: Frudo at October 6, 2009 4:12 PM in response to Radiator Paint Color Options

I'm paying around $350 for the installation of a ceiling fan, but there's no light fixture there right now, so that wound involve running wires too.

Posted by: Frudo at August 26, 2009 1:11 PM in response to ceiling fan installation

bobjohn,

I am assuming that you mean cooktops when you say "stove"? If so, I have seen a few cooktops that have only one row of burners, and so are very narrow. Miele comes to mind:

http://www.mieleusa.com/products/models.asp?cat=3&subcat=12&menu_id=10&nav=20&snav=110&tnav=140&oT=41

Ofcourse, like you say, the oven would be separate from the cooktop.

There is also the Binova Fires Line Cooktop which is mentioned on this post by Remodelista.

http://www.remodelista.com/2008/05/14/10-easy-pieces-gas-cooktops/

Posted by: Frudo at August 17, 2009 8:31 AM in response to Shallow Stove?

It's a condo in Greenwich Village, and we have a doorman, but I wouldn't say it was super high-end.

Posted by: Frudo at August 14, 2009 6:24 PM in response to Bond for renovation work

If you are very picky, then try George Smith. They make handmade sofas and have two showrooms in Manhattan:

www.georgesmith.com

Posted by: Frudo at August 10, 2009 5:21 PM in response to Good sofa store

Our property was recently re-appraised for refinancing. The value is around 4 times more than the NYC Dept of Finance value.

It's not accurate. Don't know why it's so badly off.

Posted by: Frudo at August 10, 2009 11:01 AM in response to NYC Finance Property Value...

Well, I *thought* I needed to meet ADA. From reading old forum posts here, I thought the NY DOB code is similar to the ADA. The ADA codes were much easier to read (except for this water closet / toilet stall issue).

I am in a condo in Manhattan.

Please correct me if I am wrong!

Posted by: Frudo at August 7, 2009 3:30 PM in response to Toilet Stalls vs Water Closet

I have heard lots of good things about Scherrs as well. I plan to use them. I haven't had any direct experience with them - I have only ordered some door samples, and they were very nice about that. More info on scherrs can be found by searching gardenweb.com

For the stainless steel, Martha Stewart recommends a place in Chinatown called General Sheet Metal Works in this article:

http://www.marthastewart.com/article/15-years-of-the-best-decorating-and-home-sources

Posted by: Frudo at August 3, 2009 9:43 AM in response to Kitchen Renovation Work Question

Farrow and Ball make lots of shades of exterior masonry paint. The company is English and they make good quality paint.

http://www.farrow-ball.com/productadvice/AdviceSheets.aspx?language=en-GB

Posted by: Frudo at July 31, 2009 2:40 PM in response to Painting Stoop Stairs?

CookieCutter

I am not a fake person! Click on my name, look at all my posts over a reasonable time frame, about lots of random things. Isn't that the best way to find out if someone is just posing?

Posted by: Frudo at July 24, 2009 10:14 AM in response to Need A Good Electrician

I've tried 3rd Ward and Makeville. I would whole heartedly recommend Makeville over 3rd Ward. Robyn at Makeville is a really, really nice person and the place is kept really clean, everything is maintained well, there's lots of extra things (lots of router bits, lots of jigs for random things, even glue) and Robyn, as I understand it, is always there when you rent time, so you can always ask for her help. She is really very helpful.

The last time I was at 3rd Ward was probably a year ago, and I know they were renovating, so maybe they have changed. I can just tell you what I know when I was there. Firstly, there was no one there to ask for help, which is a little scary when you're rusty (like - how do I change this blade again? and do you think it can saw through my 12" thick piece of walnut? what is that strange noise? etc, etc) and there is minimal upkeep. The blades are kind of dull, and things are generally dirtier. Also, you don't get any extras - there's no biscuit jointer. There's a router, but no bits, etc, etc.

I've never tried Treehouse. There's also Beagle and Potts, but I haven't tried them either.

Good luck.

Posted by: Frudo at July 24, 2009 10:01 AM in response to Woodworking Class / Studio Space

I just had Christopher John come and give us an estimate for electrical work on Monday. They were actually the cheapest quote of the 4 people I have spoken to.

I haven't actually got them to do the work yet, but the guy was really very nice, very professional, answered all my questions (there were a lot) and actually gave me an itemized quote on the spot (which is handy - I wanted other stuff done, but I have a budget, so it's good to know what everything costs individually to see what you can do without).

As I said - haven't had the work done yet. But so far I'm pleased with them.

Posted by: Frudo at July 22, 2009 9:58 AM in response to Need A Good Electrician

I got quotes from Cool Air and Hamilton Air for a wall through airconditioner last year. Haven't done anything about it though (I need landmarks and DOB approval. Urgh).

www.hamiltonair.com
www.coolairnyc.com

Posted by: Frudo at July 1, 2009 3:14 PM in response to through-the-wall air conditioner

I also recommend ABC Carpet, in their basement. They have remants for cheap.

Also, I always thought all rental agreements had that thing about requiring rugs, but everyone just ignored it. I know I did.

Posted by: Frudo at June 4, 2009 7:55 PM in response to Inexpensive rugs?

Yes! The Scherrs people have great reviews online, and we intend to use them for our kitchen renovation. You tell them what you want, and they will ship it to you. They will send you sample doors first, for a small fee, if you want to see them first. I've done this, and they were very pleasant on the phone.

This is their site:

http://www.scherrs.com/

There is a lot of discussion about them on www.gardenweb.com, if you want to research.

Posted by: Frudo at June 3, 2009 2:46 PM in response to Cabinet Refacing

Apartmenttherapy.com has a few posts about this. Check it out. For instance:

http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/window-coverings/ny-good-questions-what-track-system-is-being-used-049858

Posted by: Frudo at June 2, 2009 7:09 PM in response to Curtain Track

Definitely have a look at Sunrise Specialty. They have a few reproduction claw foots that fit the bill.

http://www.sunrisespecialty.com/sunbathtubs.html

Posted by: Frudo at June 2, 2009 7:07 PM in response to searching for the right bathtub.

I tried doing this, but with a bike hook. Firstly:

1. You cannot do this on drywall. Even with an anchor. If it was a piece of artwork of an equivalent size, you could, but since the force is both outwards and downwards (like with my bikes) all drywall anchors will come out - even the metal toggle bolts.

2. You CAN do this on dry wall if you are willing to put up a big piece of wood across the dry wall, and screw that to the drywall with many anchors, and then screw the rod to the wood instead. The bigger the piece and the more anchors, the better.

3. Best way is to put it through your studs. However, I have metal studs that don't hold screws. I hope yours are wood.

Posted by: Frudo at May 19, 2009 1:59 PM in response to Looking for Contractor

I have a liebherr too, which is working fine so far (1 year). I also bought it at Krups Kitchen and Bath, which had pretty good prices.

I'm puzzled as to why a fridge wouldn't work and require servicing - I thought they were like televisions and only broke down after 20 years.

Posted by: Frudo at May 15, 2009 9:47 AM in response to Built In Refrigerator

You could always go online:

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=50400&cat=3,40914,50427

Posted by: Frudo at May 13, 2009 3:46 PM in response to Cabinet Hardware - glass clips

I was eating at a restaurant opposite this scaffolding yesterday, when 3 uniformed men defaced the part that ways "www.de-fencePROJECT.com" with a spanner. (2 watching, 1 with spanner).

I thought it was industrial espionage, but now I know why.

Posted by: Frudo at May 11, 2009 10:49 AM in response to Dumbo installation controversy

I don't know how many door men apartments there are in Park Slope, but one of my friends found an apartment on the Upper East Side by going from building to building and asking the doormen.

Posted by: Frudo at May 8, 2009 4:20 PM in response to How did you find your Apt?

I looked into doing this as well.

Firstly, the ductless unit has two parts - the part that spits out the cold air (inside your house) and the part that spits out the hot air (outside your house). Is there a place to put the part that spits out the hot air? We are on the 5th floor of a 12 storey building - it was too far to put the hot air unit on the ground or on the roof, and there was no ledge for it to sit on. It really cannot be attached to the side of the building - it is seriously heavy.

Due to our situation, we didn't look into it further, so I am not sure if a ductless system requires the creation of a large hole in the wall. For instance, we need a large hole for wall-through airconditioners. This is a pain, because then you will need planning permission. This means getting an architect and an expediter, which could be greater than the cost of the system + installation.

Posted by: Frudo at April 29, 2009 11:15 AM in response to Ductless A/C questions

I highly recommend the NHS home maintenance course with Mark. It really is fantastic - in fact, I am going tonight.

http://www.nhsnyc.org/content/contact/..%5Ccalendar%5Chmaint_ef.html

Also, get Taunton's fine homebuilding magazine. It is pretty hardcore. You can get online subscription as well / instead. It allows you to access all their 'how to' articles. They do things properly.

Posted by: Frudo at April 15, 2009 11:23 AM in response to Self-educating- where to begin?

Sound proof windows can be installed on the interior, over the top of your existing window. This should get over the landmarked issue. Apparently they work v. well. Have a look:

http://nymag.com/urban/guides/bestofny/services/03/soundproofwindows.htm

http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/noise/city-soundproofing-024459

Also, I am taking a home maintenance class, and my teacher tells me that mineral wool is a good thing to put inbetween your studs. It comes in sheets that fit inbetween the usual 16" gap in your sutds. For this you will need to take down your drywall. The double stud wall that brownstoner111 mentions is better than this, but most people don't have the space for a wall that is twice as thick.

Posted by: Frudo at April 15, 2009 11:10 AM in response to Soundproofing

I am in private banking with Wells Fargo and get weekly updates on this situation, since we want to re-fi as well. The limits are supposed to kick on on May 1 but apparently the government are being a bit slow about it.

Posted by: Frudo at April 6, 2009 6:06 PM in response to New Conforming Loan Limits?

amybnyc,

Don't feel bad. I am paranoid as well. Esp since I am living in a Condo in NYC. I want to take a wall down and replace it with back-to-back cabinets. I have a feeling I will need a permit for this, which is stupid, but this is New York.

Posted by: Frudo at April 2, 2009 12:23 PM in response to What can you do without permits?

You say that you have always had great realestate foresight. But you are 28 years old. The only memory you have of the market is when is has been increasing. I am not advocating a dooms-day view, but just keep that in mind.

Posted by: Frudo at March 18, 2009 12:03 PM in response to Buying Advice

Scherrs make good quality custom doors, then ship them to you:

www.scherrs.com

However, you have to:

1. Take the measurements yourself. If they are off, it's your problem.
2. Hang them yourself, or find someone to hang them for you.

But this is the most economical way to get a high quality custom door. Scherrs has great reviews online. Type this into Google to see:

scherrs site:gardenweb.com

Posted by: Frudo at March 12, 2009 10:39 AM in response to Closet doors - looking for help

As someone who has spent a long time researching this on woodweb - yes, a slab of just plywood that is 92 inches long, as a door, will warp. It is layers of real wood stuck together. It is kind of bendy at that length (go to home depot and have a look at the sheets of plywood there. They are bendy). Also, as a door, it doesn't really have any supports (like it would if it were attached on all sides).

One option is to have a 'frame' of hardwood and then a floating plywood internal panel. This is the kind of thing you see in traditional cabinetry - for a reason. In the olden days, they only had real wood. This expanded and contracted - you couldn't make a whole door with one slab of wood, because the wood would expand and contract so much. So they made a frame out of 4 pieces of narrow wood (the narrower the better since it expands / contracts less) then put in a floating panel in the middle, which was free to expand and contract.

Anyhow, if you don't want that look, then go with MDF. But mixing this with a wet area means you will need to replace as soon as the veneer starts to come off and exposes the core.

Posted by: Frudo at January 28, 2009 11:17 AM in response to Kitchen cabinet door material ??

I am not sure if you need to make the hole for the airconditioner, or if you have the hole already.

I *think* you mean that you need to make the hole. I was looking into doing the same thing myself. I called the NYC department of buildings and they say you need a building permit. However, I have had some architects say that it may not need a permit.

Anyhow, I tried both Hamilton Air and Cool Air and they both gave me quotes roughly $2500 for each airconditioner (I was looking at putting in two) which includes the cost of the airconditioner as well as making the hole and installing. However, I am on the 5th floor and they would need to hang out the window on some contraption. If you were on the ground floor, then it would probably be cheaper.

Note that if they do have to hang out your window (ie, if you are not on the ground floor), your window has to open enough for someone to actually climb through it. If it doesn't, then you will have to pay for your window to be removed and then replaced.

And yes - for most units you will need to get an electrician because the voltage they require is more than usual in this country.

Hope this helps.

Posted by: Frudo at December 17, 2008 10:26 AM in response to Installing a Wall-Through Air Conditioner?

The comments here give some advice.

http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/chicago/good-questions/chi-good-questions-painting-a-radiator-050466

Posted by: Frudo at October 1, 2008 7:47 PM in response to Cast Iron Radiator Finishing Advice

Hello. This is the original poster of the above question.

If anyone is wondering, I did manage to speak to the Manhattan Borough Manager for the NYC Buildings department. And yes, you do need a permit.

I was told that the NYC Buildings department are very happy to guide you through what permits you do and do not need. This is not the experience I have found. They are very busy and short staffed.

Posted by: Frudo at August 21, 2008 11:05 AM in response to Do I need a building permit to install a wall-through air conditioner?

the hubs and i had this same debate when we were renovating, and eventually compromised on some recessed lighting in certain hallways, bathrooms, tv room and kitchen - spaces where pendants either just wouldn't work or that were a bit more modern. this has worked out well. i ultimately agreed that recessed lights would be distracting and/or unnecessary in the entry and parlor, bedrooms and certain hallways. keep in mind, too, that recessed lighting points directly downward, so you can get some harsh shadows and dark spots anyway.

we didn't try to use historical lighting in the areas where we chose to do pendants. we used mostly modern stuff because that was our style of renovation. although we agreed to have lamps and "layers of light" as others have suggested, in order to provide sufficient light, it wasn't practical or affordable to do sconces (fixtures were expensive; we'd have to channel into walls; we weren't ready to decide on placement before we really had any interior design). problem is, once we were done with our renovation, we didn't really have the funds to spend on appropriate, nice lamps. so it remains a little dark for my tastes in certain rooms but ultimately, with floor and table lamps, i think it will look and feel nicer than with recessed lighting. lastly, we used modern fan company for the fan lights in bedrooms and the kitchen - the light is okay but you definitely will need to supplement.

Posted by: i disagree at October 29, 2009 11:44 AM in response to Thoughts on Recessed Lighting

Recessed lighting is not necessarily a selling point.
I'm looking to buy a brownstone, and I prefer the absence of recessed lighting.

But I don't like your wife's idea either. Ceiling fans with attached lights are, I think, problematic.

I like cmu's advice:

"What you really need is the ability to have *multiple* levels of ligthing, depending on the mood, which is why floor/table lamps with one or two ceiling/wall lamps is flexible.

"Finally, unless you're planning to sell next year, do what you like, not what your hypothetical buyers may."

Also, it largely depends on the style of your renovation. If you're renovating so it looks like it did 100 years ago, you should not use recessed lighting.

Posted by: Pigeon at October 29, 2009 11:44 AM in response to Thoughts on Recessed Lighting

i usually just put everything on dimmers regardless. you can add in more lighting later if you do do the recessed lights - like have them for convenience, but at night, you can dim down and then turn on a table lamp for nicer feel.

i don't have recessed lighting now, but i don't mind it.

Posted by: wine lover at October 29, 2009 11:51 AM in response to Thoughts on Recessed Lighting

Just a personal preference, but I love the sensation of turning on a light at its source. Lots of lamps for me. The best use of recessed lighting is to light a feature on a wall - a piece of art for example. Not so great for general lighting. I also would second the sentiment that Bobjohn is a wise man indeed, even though ceiling fans are better for managing comfort than they are at providing light.

Posted by: architect66 at October 29, 2009 11:59 AM in response to Thoughts on Recessed Lighting

Unless I'm lighting artwork, or doing task type lighting over counter tops, etc.), I go very easy on the recessed lights.

The main reason is simply that they only throw light in one direction...down. These are overused all the time, and you get this sort of zebra striping of light/dark that's very harsh on the eye.

Instead, use well chosen surface mounted or pendant fixtures that throw light in all directions for general illumination...put them on dimmer switches to you can really control how much light they throw off. You also need to take into consideration how big the room is that you're lighting. Don't pick a fixture that can only take one 60W bulb for your big living room.

This looks better, and you can actually save some serious $ in the reduction in the rough in and the fixtures.

Posted by: jcarch at October 29, 2009 12:43 PM in response to Thoughts on Recessed Lighting

I agree that some recessed fixtures can be done appropriately. I also think wall sconces work well, especially in a dining room, and should be considered. I also like the purist approach the wife espouses, with the lighting enhanced with sconces, torcheres and or table lamps.

I think the most important factor is that both of you are happy, and that may require compromise from both. There are many options, and can be negotiated.

Posted by: Hal at October 29, 2009 1:02 PM in response to Thoughts on Recessed Lighting

BTW, if you do reno and thinking about recessed lighting opportunity, maybe it would make sense to put wires in place. Latter if you decide on it - make holes and hook up cans.

Posted by: bobjohn at October 29, 2009 1:55 PM in response to Thoughts on Recessed Lighting

my 2 cents: I put in recessed lighting ( all with dimmers) during my renovation and like it a lot.. We offset the lighting with table and floor lamps and the mix is quite nice and balanced. I think recessed lighting is a good starting point, but not a complete solution. One neglected issue ( and not a trivial one) is the electric bill. We have a 1200 sq. ft apartment and the electric bill is over $100 not including AC use.

Posted by: owner12 at October 29, 2009 2:24 PM in response to Thoughts on Recessed Lighting

what about for low ceilings? the pendant lights don't work because they hang down and make the room seem even smaller; the wall scones are also low enough to hurt someone walking by. Is there a lighting solution here?

Posted by: gowanusgus at October 29, 2009 2:49 PM in response to Thoughts on Recessed Lighting

Recessed lighting is inappropriate in an old house. It will be extremely unpopular with buyers. It is also going out of fashion very quickly. It is the equivalent of shag carpet.

Where it is appropriate is in a loft. That's where it started.

Your wife is right.

But no one says you are stuck with one ceiling light in every room. For example, you can have pendant lights over the kitchen table, wall sconces in the bath and a variety of other rooms, double lights over the sinks, floor lamps and lamps on tables, etc. Best to keep the permanent fixtures simple and classic.

Posted by: mopar at October 29, 2009 4:52 PM in response to Thoughts on Recessed Lighting