I think it's a shame to get rid of the beautiful pantry (and the storage it provides) for a powder room. Though convenient to have one on the main floor, I don't personally think it's a requirement. Kind of gross to have a toilet right off the living room, dining room or especially kitchen.

I would add something simple and functional in the basement for family use. And add one on the top floor for those bedrooms.

The kitchen on the DP house looks like it has close to the original layout--would be fun to convert it back to an old-style kitchen.

Posted by: BHS at November 20, 2009 3:16 PM in response to Open House Picks

The Ditmas price seems very reasonable but only one bathroom? Am I reading the floorplans right? Great butler's pantry.

Posted by: BHS at November 20, 2009 1:15 PM in response to Open House Picks

Iris, The sink pictured has two knobs and a mixer faucet--I assume you're thinking it had separate hot and cold taps? I have seen these taps offered new for sale, though unclear if the OP needs them.

Posted by: BHS at November 20, 2009 1:03 PM in response to in need of old sink!

Brenda, I just ran across this...it's a strobe light that's supposed to get rid of squirrels and rats from attics etc. No idea how well it works.

http://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com/category.aspx?iid=464

Posted by: BHS at November 16, 2009 4:30 PM in response to Animal Living in the Wall

Tybur6, I talked my way into Purple Yam's "soft opening" which was kind of a friends and family event though they were charging for many items. I overheard that the prices would be higher than they were that night ($6 for a tapas/app size plate). I'm guessing it won't be too attractively priced, but nice to have more options. And I love all asian food (except when accompanied by bullet proof glass) so happy about that. The menu seemed to have a lot of Korean items, but made less spicy. I'd prefer more traditional Korean, if anyone is listening.

Had a club sandwich at Picket Fence in the garden once which was decent but I have ruled out going there for dinner. Price/quality ratio not good.

Posted by: BHS at November 13, 2009 2:59 PM in response to StreetLevel: Cortelyou Market, Wine Bar Coming Along

Mimi's is fantastic, can't wait for the market. I tried the new Filipino place last weekend, it was pretty good.

Posted by: BHS at November 13, 2009 2:13 PM in response to StreetLevel: Cortelyou Market, Wine Bar Coming Along

thanks everyone

Posted by: BHS at November 13, 2009 1:57 PM in response to Lock DIY?

someone posted looking for exactly this about a month ago. These are nice tubs.

Posted by: BHS at November 13, 2009 1:51 PM in response to Vintage 3-Sided Tub For Sale

oooh, a Dyson with diamond earrings, Minard has read my mind. Can you speak to my boyfriend?

Posted by: BHS at November 13, 2009 1:47 PM in response to Installing Faucet - No Brainer?

The hex floor tiles were from Subway Ceramics (Subwaytile.com). I also used their subway wall tiles in Avalon White to patch a couple areas in the wall (bathrooms and kitchen) where the plumbers had to replace pipes and you really can't see the patches. Amazing--new tile next to 90-year-old and it isn't obvious. Get the hex tiles sealed. The plumbers got so much goop on those unglazed tiles, I was very relieved when it came off.

Regarding the scary comments from the above posters about the balancing act of preserving your house but replacing electrical and plumbing--it's not impossible. I did it and for a fairly modest budget. Most of my plaster walls are intact with channels patched. The major exception was the two plumbing chases in the house because the walls had to be replaced to get the cast iron pipes replaced. The basement cement floor also had a big trench in it. One line I tried not to cross was getting sucked into "upgrading" when things need to be replaced. For example with the tile floor I used a nearly exact replica of what was there. I like the look of the marble hex tiles in use now but I tried to stick with the original look even though the marble ones are retro-ish. I didn't add many lights. I didnt add wall cabinets in the original kitchen.

Posted by: BHS at November 12, 2009 3:34 PM in response to All Systems, Go — Away?

I second Arkady's fabric suggestion. Burlap is great but does have a certain smell and a rustic look. Unbleached muslin might be another inexpensive fabric option.

Posted by: BHS at November 12, 2009 2:52 PM in response to Paint and Exposed brick

Oh really, illegal? It's less than a foot below a glass window in the door, which is my guess for why they used a 2-cylinder. Would prefer single despite lower security but not sure that's possible. Was planning to leave the key in the inside lock except when away on vacation. Already accidentally locked someone inside.

Posted by: BHS at November 12, 2009 2:50 PM in response to Lock DIY?

Wow the Arbuckle house looks so much nicer than its ghostly painted neighbor.

Posted by: BHS at November 12, 2009 1:53 PM in response to Walkabout: MW Morris- the Commissions Cometh

Mopar, many apartments probably have lead paint, but unless you are sanding it, or there is rubbing or chipping, it's likely not a problem. I dont know what OP's particular situation is, but I did some paint removal and was very careful to get rid of all of the possible lead-paint dust right away so that it wouldn't travel all over the house. I also had/have plaster dust but that's just annoying, not a health hazard.

Posted by: BHS at November 11, 2009 1:17 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?

wow, great job. the paint color looks really nice too. Strange that the area in front of the fireplace is wood instead of something inflammable. Do you think it's a patch replacing stone or marble?

Posted by: BHS at November 10, 2009 2:29 PM in response to Back Parlor Sanding

That's what my "before" plumbing looked like beneath my bathrooms, except that some of the pipes were then encased in the cement floor (hex tiles embedded in the thick cement bed of the floor). One of the bathroom tile floors had to be replaced but it looks original thanks to the very convincing repro hex tiles I found. One of my neighbors told me some horror stories about her partial plumbing replacement--she encouraged me to get it all done at once. Which of course makes a lot of sense if you're doing all the electrical too (which I was). I found ancient (50 years old? 80?) extension cords strung through multiple walls in the basement. Scary.

Posted by: BHS at November 10, 2009 2:25 PM in response to All Systems, Go — Away?

I'd like to add that no matter which kind of vacuum etc you choose for getting rid of most of the dust, you should get some microfiber towels (I got a bunch from solventfreepaint.com) and dust everything with a damp microfiber cloth. Then go back over everything a week or so later after any remaining dust has settled. Make sure you get the tops of door trim, tops of shelves, etc.

Posted by: BHS at November 10, 2009 2:00 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?

I've used my shop vac for this kind of thing with HEPA filter, and vacuum bag. Plus I wear a lead paint/asbestos level respirator, cover my hair, wash all clothes worn immediately after, etc, and shower right away. Depending on the way your apt is configured, it might be possible to get an extension for the hose on your vac and have the vac itself outside so that the exhaust isn't blowing the paint dust around inside.

Another option, depending on how much dust there is, is to get the dust wet/damp and clean it up with wet rags/towels/paper towels, which would then be thrown away. That might be simpler and stir up less dust. The respirator & protective clothing & washing would have to be done still.

Posted by: BHS at November 10, 2009 1:45 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?

I've used the same--Malber. The washing is pretty good though medium to small capacity. The drying doesn't work super well. It took a long time and items would get really hot. There's also no sensor and a 2-minute cool-down so you have to be good at guessing when clothes are dry because you cant just open the door and reach in. So I ended up doing a lot of air drying. But overall it was good, and would definitely recommend vs. out-of-unit options like laundromats.

Posted by: BHS at November 9, 2009 3:21 PM in response to Washer-Dryer Combos?

What characteristics look "rich" to you? The really high end butcher block is thick, end-grain, and I think maple. Or are you thinking of trying to make it look like a different material altogether.

Posted by: BHS at November 9, 2009 12:56 PM in response to Butcher Block Treatment

Townhouser, I think with certain people there's nothing you can really do to "prove" yourself and change their attitude. I was lucky enough to work with a GC who treated me with respect (that should not be a question, but I'm sure there are lots out there who might be problematic for a single female client). There may have been things said by the subs to the GC, that he thankfully dealt with and did not pass on. I see this all the time in the corporate world so I was pleasantly surprised with my experience with construction. I would certainly be up in arms if I had a husband involved in the project and he were treated differently than I was.

Posted by: BHS at November 6, 2009 2:05 PM in response to Contractors & Chauvinism

Hang in there Argentina. I have been lucky in that I have not had a problem with this with the contractors I've used (I'm a youngish woman). I have been asked many times by various tradespeople where/who my husband is, but it simplifies things that there is no husband, ha ha, so there's no option but to address things directly with me. I am also very hands-on, which over time has won the respect of some tradespeople (the rest probably think of me as the crazy lady who asks a lot of questions). Most of the people who worked in my house saw me there dirty in my work clothes painting, fixing, or building.

Posted by: BHS at November 6, 2009 1:40 PM in response to Contractors & Chauvinism

check if there's packing material in the drain/filter.

Posted by: BHS at November 6, 2009 1:20 PM in response to Clogged (New) Dishwasher?

Thank you for doing a blog, I can't wait to see your progress and the mysteries you uncover. I have done quite a bit of research on old kitchens and baths and would be more than happy to share what I've learned. I recently restored a house in Victorian Flatbush with nearly original kitchen and baths. It's awesome to see first hand how things worked and how people lived. The division of public and private spaces has changed a lot, I think with the loss of servants being common in middle class and upper-middle class households.

I also find it very interesting which elements let a place read as authentic vs. overly modernized. As a homeowner I want to avoid the renovations and fixture choices that currently look "period" but 10 or 20 years from now will look as dated as some of the restorations people did in the 1970s and 80s.

Posted by: BHS at November 6, 2009 1:05 PM in response to Welcome to The Albemarle Reno Blog

Fantastic, I'm so excited about the blog. This is a great house.

Posted by: BHS at November 6, 2009 12:53 PM in response to The Albemarle Renovation Blog Launches!

I saw on the city dept of sanitation website that they arent doing the leaf pickup and compost this year. The instructions were to put the leaves in the trash. Unless the city just hasnt updated the web site? I was going to use the paper leaf bags anyway to not add plastic to the landfill.

Posted by: BHS at November 4, 2009 1:24 PM in response to Leafing

wow, "tumbleweaves" I've actually seen those on multiple occasions in my neighborhood, very funny. And it's hard to find diet soda. But there is a bakery and a dry cleaner.

Posted by: BHS at November 4, 2009 12:58 PM in response to Closing Bell: Gentrification Indicators

The last two places I lived I could hear piano, and/or harpsichord practice and thought it was great.

Posted by: BHS at October 26, 2009 2:33 PM in response to Rent to a Pianist - Crazy?

lack of screen seems like a big negative. But the mosquitoes love me, so maybe I'm paranoid.

Posted by: BHS at October 23, 2009 5:05 PM in response to Tilt & Turn

This reminds me--I have a copper downspout in my garage from the previous owner. Anybody know how or where to sell these? How much can you get for copper scrap in Brooklyn?

Posted by: BHS at October 23, 2009 4:58 PM in response to Copper Downspouts

If you bought the house relatively recently I wonder whether you could file claim against the title insurance. Not sure I'm phrasing that accurately, but the title company was supposed to make sure there are no liens or outstanding issues like this on the property before you purchase it.

Posted by: BHS at October 23, 2009 4:47 PM in response to 20-y.o. HPD Violations

The peeling paint is the last refinishing job. It doesnt last too long and looks bad when it starts to go. And also they rough up the interior of the tub so that the refinishing paint will adhere which means you can't somehow remove the paint and go back to the prior version. From what I've heard, it costs ~$300 to have it refinished, so if you can spend the money that's probably going to be your best-looking option from this point though it will only last 3-5 years and you have to be careful to not use abrasive cleaners or otherwise damage the surface. It may be possible to DIY, but I dont have experience with this or know what products would be best. The outside is much easier to fix since you can scrape of any peeling paint, prime and repaint with regular paint. I've seen clawfoot exteriors done in a dark charcoal grey, which looks great and might hide more flaws.

Posted by: BHS at October 23, 2009 3:44 PM in response to Refinishing Claw Foot Tub

I've seen them wrapped in jute rope but presumably that takes away from their ability to heat the room. Maybe wrapped to just above little finger reach would work.

Posted by: BHS at October 23, 2009 1:27 PM in response to Heat Riser Rusted After Painting

can you be more specific about what the problems are? Outside? Inside? Stains, chips, mineral deposits near faucet?

Posted by: BHS at October 23, 2009 1:09 PM in response to Refinishing Claw Foot Tub

Architerrorist--very interesting on the missing porch. I thought the front looked very naked in person. And front porches were so popular in that era (as one can see from the rest of the nabe) so I'd definitely wondered if it'd had one removed.

Posted by: BHS at October 23, 2009 12:59 PM in response to House of the Day: 177 Rugby Road

I've heard good things from neighbors about DAS Upholstery on Courtelyou. He gave me estimates on some pieces I have and seemed good, but I haven't used him yet (finishing other projects first).

Posted by: BHS at October 22, 2009 4:46 PM in response to Re-upholsterer for Old Settee

I saw this on the house tour and really liked the feel of the interior. Not the decorating, but the elements of the house. The fireplace is quite nice, once you clear away the nick-knacks, grow some imagination people! Also re the fireplace you should be thinking turn-of-the-century aesthetic, not the more ornate style of many brownstones (marble surround and mantle). Brick was seen as a solid, authentic, practical fireplace surround material, something from colonial times. The lamp hanging in the stairway was very impressive when I was there.

Posted by: BHS at October 22, 2009 4:38 PM in response to House of the Day: 177 Rugby Road

2101 Albemarle needs significant renovation work while 2102 Kenmore is in move-in condition with lots of nice historical detail intact inside. I've been in both.

Posted by: BHS at October 19, 2009 1:26 PM in response to Open House Picks: Six Months Later

As eman said, reglazing is just special paint and it doesnt last very long and looks terrible when it starts to wear away. The inside doesnt look bad in the photo--maybe worse in real life. If that's paint on the rim you can probably carefully scrape it off with a razor blade. the outside can be repainted with regular paint.

Posted by: BHS at October 15, 2009 3:48 PM in response to Refinishing Cast Iron Tub

Where is the mold? Wood? Drywall? carpet? unkown? I've only heard of using borates for wood, but that is to prevent fungus in wood that might be repeatedly exposed to water such as exterior wood. Mildew can just be cleaned off of wood and as long as there's no ongoing water or significant humidity, it shouldnt come back. Moldy drywall probably needs to be torn out and replaced rather than cleaned.

Posted by: BHS at October 14, 2009 1:19 PM in response to Moldy Smell

The problem with double-paned glass is that the seal between the panes often fails after 5+ years and there's no simple way to fix this. Also, any window made to hold a single piece of glass is going to look different with two pieces in there. Storm windows essentially add a second pane of glass and are simple to maintain and repair and are historically accurate (or can be, certainly there are non-historically accurate ones). Why not have nice wood storm windows made and a little maintenance for your existing wood windows plus some weather stripping? Certainly this is a safer and likely much cheaper path. Old glass and single paned windows look different in a subtle way that's part of the charm of a historic house.

Posted by: BHS at October 14, 2009 1:14 PM in response to New Double Glass in Old Windows?

Storm windows. Storms plus proper weather stripping and maintenance of your windows (glazing putty intact, cracks filled, etc) should be nearly as good as double-paned windows according to the research I've done.

Posted by: BHS at October 12, 2009 2:13 PM in response to New Double Glass in Old Windows?

Great idea. I'm doing something similar but using a table that came with my house. And my kitchen isnt large enough to have it in the middle as an island. One idea--they often put oil cloth over the top of the table tacked down under the edges, so you could do that if you found a table that would work size-wise but the top was crappy. Also if you're using it for chopping and/or cooking, it would be best to finish it with food grade oil. You might need to give the top a good sanding before finishing with the oil or otherwise remove any varnish if you're going that route.

Posted by: BHS at October 9, 2009 4:05 PM in response to Source for Old Table?

Is there wall paper on the walls with water stains? I bought a house that had water damage and while some wall areas showed water damage it turned out once the many layers of paper were off, there was no discoloration of the plaster (not drywall) underneath or other evidence of damage or mold. Other areas were in worse shape than they at first appeared and some wall and ceiling areas had to be replaced.

Typically inspectors only inspect what they can see externally, they don't guess (on paper at least) at what might be going on behind the walls or in the floors or with the hidden plumbing. Keep in mind the cost to replace or fix what's causing the leak and the cost of repairing the walls,floors, ceilings etc. that those repairs might lead to. Mold spores are all around us, mold only spreads if there's an ongoing source of moisture. I dont know what the answer is on the dry rot question specifically, but bring along an ice pick or a screw driver to test if visible wood is solid. If not, you'll need to replace it regardless of the cause, and there is likely more problem area hidden behind the walls and floors.

Posted by: BHS at October 9, 2009 3:53 PM in response to How to Detect Dry Rot?

unglazed hex tile. get it sealed.

Posted by: BHS at October 9, 2009 1:37 PM in response to Best floor for 1890s bath?

Nice photos, gorgeous. The floorplan image is too small to read.

Posted by: BHS at October 7, 2009 1:22 PM in response to House of the Day: 212 8th Avenue

Somebody posted a photo of a radiator they'd had stripped and powder coated a bronze-ish metallic color on Brownstoner within the last 6 weeks and it looked fantastic.

Posted by: BHS at October 7, 2009 1:11 PM in response to Radiator Paint Color Options

Wall paint is fine. You might want to pick a color that will be less white than the interior, making the interior look whiter in comparison.

Posted by: BHS at October 7, 2009 1:03 PM in response to Cast Iron Tub Paint

Exposed brick may be the party wall separating your brownstone from the next door neighbor's. During my plumbing repairs the party wall was exposed and I could hear shockingly clearly into my neighbor's house (dining room). The plaster keeps dust, noise, and drafts out of your living space.

I also used reproduction push-button switches in the public areas of my house. Original (1919) push-button and old rocker switches were in place when I bought the house but I replaced all the switches on the electrician's advice and because they wouldn't guarantee the functioning of any old parts. The repro switches work much better than the originals, some of which you had to really push fairly hard, perhaps because they were old and heavily used. I'm really happy with the new ones and the brass switch plate covers I used.

Posted by: BHS at October 1, 2009 1:47 PM in response to Exposed Brick Blues

I havent tried muriatic acid--just be aware that anything that would need to be neutralized (and I'm not sure if that would apply to MA) is not a good idea for unglazed tiles or old tiles with crazing in the glaze. Regarding regrouting, old floor and wall tiles were typically set in a bed of concrete ("thick set" or "mud job") and the grout is of the same color (medium gray). However, the grout lines are very thin so my approach was just to clean the whole wall and not worry about trying to "clean" the grout. In places where grout was cracked or missing I asked the contractors to fill in the gaps with gray grout, and that looks good. Thin grout lines and gray color (vs. white) are a subtle combination that makes tile look original, other than the choice of tile and crazing, etc.

Posted by: BHS at September 30, 2009 3:03 PM in response to Worth Keeping Clawfoot?

I had very good luck during my renovation with George Taylor in Manhattan.
George Taylor Specialties Inc
76 Franklin St, New York, NY
(212) 226-5369‎

family-owned, great service, good pricing, fast delivery

Posted by: hancockone at November 20, 2009 5:04 PM in response to in need of old sink!

I have never seen a sink at Eddie's. He mostly has doors and sometimes furniture. Call and search web sites of salvage stores, such as Old Goode Things in NYC and Old House Parts in Maine. The lady who bought my coop in Jackson Heights tossed a sink just like this, but alas that was a year ago.

Posted by: mopar at November 20, 2009 8:15 PM in response to in need of old sink!