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Architect here. This doesn't sound good. I'd heed the advice of the previous posters and fire them immediately and move to a more qualified firm (whether it be another design/build or an architect/contractor combo). You should fire them AFTER you interview other firms and find a firm qualified to take over the job. And make sure you have solid references for all the firms. If you're still completing the design phase and you're already 50% over budget then you're going to end up quadrupling the budget by the time construction is complete. It sounds like they're taking you for a ride.

What does your contract with them say about early termination? Did you include in the contract a reference to your budget and schedule? What are their excuses for the increase in costs?

I assume the contract itemized their fees according to phase...in which case you should only be required to pay them for 'design services' to this point. Another firm taking over this early in the game is actually not difficult. You just don't want to go into CD's (because the new firm legally needs to develop their own construction documents), DOB filing (because you don't want to pay an extra fee for having another firm supersede this one), and especially construction and have to switch teams.

I'm curious what the project scope is and what their original estimate was (for construction only...not their design fees)...we can tell you if they seemed to be deliberately low-balling you to get the job or if their current pricing is at odds with industry standards.

Good luck. I hope you get this sorted out soon.

Posted by: 60designers at October 14, 2009 10:29 AM in response to Changing Design/Build Midstream?

"60designers, is that not what you just did with your post?"

Pig Three,

Actually, no I did not. My advice was for them to ask friends, neighbors, and/or the building management for referrals. I also suggested they ask for not just architect recommendations...but for design/build firms and/or contractors for advice and to make up their own minds based on their interviews. I did not suggest they contact me or use my services. I have never received a job as a result of my posts here, but I do receive questions regularly via email which I am happy to answer if I know the answers.

I'm really sorry you, and a few others here, have had problems with your architects in the past. Some of us in this profession work hard to deliver good work to our clients, so I think it's important to offer an opposing view to the posts that attempt to diminish the qualifications of Architects in general. That was the intention of my post. Nothing more.

Posted by: 60designers at September 28, 2009 5:18 PM in response to 1st Time Renovation Advice?

12345,

All these posts scaring you into believing architects are not qualified to provide design services, provide details for construction, or guide you through this process are pure junk. That is exactly what we (myself being a licensed architect) are qualified to do. And others claiming starting with an architect is the most expensive way to start is also ridiculous, considering most architects provide free consultation services, including walkthroughs at the site, describing the entire process to potential clients, and providing estimated costs associated with your renovation. All without costing you a penny. And, if hired, they serve their clients interests throughout the construction process. With all due respect to other posters on this forum, it does not sound like they have ever worked with an architect before...or are looking to serve their own professional interests by attempting to diminish the qualifications of architects.

Do yourself a favor and ask other people in your building for architect, contractor, or design-build recommendations. Entertain all options if you are unsure, and make your own decisions based on the interviews you do...and listen to the other posts on this thread which tell you to review condo/co-op rules and alteration agreements. It's not a complicated process to undertake the work you describe. You just need to find good, responsible professionals to help you through it...the safest way to proceed is, in all honesty, through recommendations from friends, neighbors, or even your managing agent at your building.

Best of luck.

60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at September 26, 2009 7:47 PM in response to 1st Time Renovation Advice?

I'm greatly depressed by this conversation.

Posted by: 60designers at August 26, 2009 2:16 PM in response to Reno Prices Down?

Perach...Who knows...maybe you'll find a gem of a contractor as some people on this site claim to have found. I'll just add that pricing is all over the place nowadays. Either pricing is coming back really high because contractors are trying to make up for lack of work, or pricing is low because they're desperate to get work. I'm sure you'll receive a whole range of prices. The point is, get numerous prices, make sure the contractors have reliable references, and hopefully you won't break the bank doing this work.

Best of luck.

Posted by: 60designers at August 25, 2009 2:10 PM in response to Labor Cost for Kitchen Reno

Kensingtonian,

Most co-ops require licensed contractors to perform work, even simple kitchen renovations. And, some of them even require DOB filing whether the DOB requires it for that scope of work or not. Perarch should confirm their co-op's requirement.

It's a different story if it's not a condo or coop.

Posted by: 60designers at August 25, 2009 1:50 PM in response to Labor Cost for Kitchen Reno

perarch...I misread. I thought you were changing plumbing. You certainly don't need to file even a plumbing repair application unless you're moving or adding 2 or more plumbing fixtures.

Posted by: 60designers at August 25, 2009 1:34 PM in response to Labor Cost for Kitchen Reno

Mopar...That's truly unbelievable. If I were to break down costs for each trade I don't know how it's possible to come to 2K for that work unless it was an unlicensed contractor, not filed with DOB, and poor craftsmanship. I've never had labor costs that low for a kitchen renovation, even with modest renovations...and I've done dozens for a variety of clients.

Posted by: 60designers at August 25, 2009 1:31 PM in response to Labor Cost for Kitchen Reno

I'm genuinely surprised by Kensingtonian's numbers. Do us favor...after you get pricing from several contractors, please come back and post the range of numbers you receive. Then after the renovation, post how much the whole job ended up costing when all was said and done. I'd be very curious if you can have a GC execute all this to your satisfaction, including filing costs, below 10K.

Posted by: 60designers at August 25, 2009 12:31 PM in response to Labor Cost for Kitchen Reno

Ok...That helps a bit. Take all price estimates on this site with a grain of salt, including mine. We don't know for sure without details, types of accessories to be installed, how many appliances, etc...but I'd estimate labor and installation costs for this size kitchen to be closer to 10K-12K, if it's a really simple and straightforward job. This number can vary based on the complexity of the kitchen layout. This also assumes a licensed contractor will be performing the work, filing a LAA1 application with DOB, Owner-supplied items that you described, waterproof membrane installation.

I'm not sure how others here can assume you'll be paying 5K or lower for even just labor. That leaves no profit margin for the contractor, and will barely get you beyond demo/waterproofing/flooring. A job like this still involves several trades (demo, tile, plaster, plumbing, electrical, etc), and you can expect to pay a premium to coordinate all these trades despite the size of the renovation.

I would recommend pricing the work out with up to 4 contractors to level the playing field. Otherwise, you won't really be getting competitive pricing.

Good luck.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at August 25, 2009 12:01 PM in response to Labor Cost for Kitchen Reno

Architect here. It's not totally clear what you're asking for when you say "labor and costs." What is the "and costs" referring to? Materials? Fixtures? Accessories? Plumber filing fees (because you do need to file a plumbing repair application for this scope with the DOB)? Will a new waterproof membrane be installed (I assume so)? Is it custom cabinetry or off-the-shelf cabinetry? How large is the kitchen?

We need more info to answer your question. G_B's response is very ambitious even if it's strictly labor costs.

Posted by: 60designers at August 25, 2009 11:23 AM in response to Labor Cost for Kitchen Reno

Architect here. You need to give more information for us to answer your question. Did you file the conversion with the DOB? Do the 2 bedrooms both meet minimum size requirements for habitable bedrooms? Are the windows large enough to meet NYC code requirements (to act as a means of egress in case of fire)? Do both bedrooms meet door push-pull ADA requirements? These are all answers your architect should have addressed during filing. Give us more info and we can offer you a more informed reply.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at August 24, 2009 10:17 AM in response to Legal 1 to 2 BR Conversion

Have you considered Smith and Noble? They're not the cheapest option, but some of my clients have used them and have been happy with the results.

Posted by: 60designers at August 20, 2009 3:35 PM in response to need window shade recommendation

Try going to a bookstore and browsing the Architect's Graphic Standards. There are details for the construction of fences like this. With minor tweaking, you can slightly modify those details to suit a more modern aesthetic.

Posted by: 60designers at August 11, 2009 6:43 PM in response to Contempory Ipe Fence

Architect here...just wanted to say everyone above is correct and to warn that any contractor saying they can do a gut renovation of a 2 family house for only 80K is trying to swindle you. That would be impossible in this city, and I can confidently say that without knowing the full scope of work.

Good luck.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at July 31, 2009 9:26 AM in response to Gut Reno Estimate?

For some reason that link didn't work.
click main menu, then click laws of new york, then type 27-860
that should get you there.

Posted by: 60designers at July 30, 2009 5:58 PM in response to Neighbors - Wall Sharing - Law

I take back what I said. I was curious and did more research for you. Follow these requirements (link below) and you should be fine...Your architect really should be doing this research for you. Tell them to pick up a code book. I'm an architect, so it baffles me why someone you're paying to figure this stuff out doesn't do their own homework.

New York City Administrative Code § 27-860: Adjoining Chimneys

Do a search for 27-860 in the following link.
http://public.leginfo.state.ny.us/menugetf.cgi

Good luck.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at July 30, 2009 5:56 PM in response to Neighbors - Wall Sharing - Law

Have you offered to pay them for the work plus offer additional $$$ for their inconvenience during the construction? Sadly, this is more often than not the most common way to get a non-cooperative neighbor to allow work like this to be done...after that, hiring a lawyer and throwing your relationship with them into the garbage would be the next step. Try to diplomatically work it out with them...See what it would take for them to agree to the work. My 2 cents.

Posted by: 60designers at July 30, 2009 5:39 PM in response to Neighbors - Wall Sharing - Law

Let me make clear that I'm not questioning your ethical character at all. I hope my comment did not come across that way. I've read your posts and you are clearly interested in doing what would be acceptable and lawful...without needing to spend an excessive amount of money to fix this problem yourself.

And your appraiser is right...people do sell properties that have code violations. Some do so without informing the buyer, which in my opinion is crossing ethical standards because it sets up the owner to be in the exact same dilemma you're in. Others, like yourself, are more honest.

I personally find it hard to believe the property value will not suffer once you inform the potential buyers of the code violations currently in place. But, then again, New York is a curious city. I'm sometimes baffled by what people buy, sometimes at premium prices.

Good luck resolving this issue. I hope one day I return to this thread and find out that you've found a way to resolve it without too much trouble.

Posted by: 60designers at July 23, 2009 5:37 PM in response to Cellar Kitchen Compliant?

Market value is one thing. Ethical value is another.

I'm not intending to be harsh here...I know you're in a bind...but...

Posted by: 60designers at July 23, 2009 4:37 PM in response to Cellar Kitchen Compliant?

Based on this info, the entire cellar level is not habitable. A habitable cellar or basement apartment must have 8'-0" ceilings. What kind of ceiling is it? Acoustic ceiling tiles? Do you have the option of raising it to meet code?

Also, this is most certainly a cellar, not a basement. In order for it to be a basement you would need over one half of its height over curb level, which means the floor would need to be less than 4'-0" below grade. You're not even close to that.

Sorry, but your appraiser has a lot to learn if s/he makes comments like that. I realize there are crooks out there, but based on all the info you've provided, it would be clear to any professional in real estate that you should be listening to your architect in this matter. Moreover, your architect is the only one that has proposed legal solutions to get you out of this mess. Do you really want to follow the opinion of an appraiser who so casually dismisses code violations and proposes you solve the issue by tricking another unlucky and naive soul who's unfamiliar with the apartment's legality?

Posted by: 60designers at July 23, 2009 4:35 PM in response to Cellar Kitchen Compliant?

According to Thoroseal Product Data:

"Variations between inside and outside temperatures may result in condensation on below-grade walls treated with Thoroseal®. This can be alleviated by assuring that adequate ventilation exists."

http://www.masonpro.com/productdatasheets/thoroseal.pdf

Posted by: 60designers at July 23, 2009 2:42 PM in response to Stoop Hell

Just because the job was self certified by an architect doesn't mean it was executed legally. In fact, an architect can lose their license if it is revealed they self certified a job that is in clear violation of NYC code. I read your previous post, so I now see your dilemma more clearly. Listen to your current architect...their suggestions are good. And if you can't afford to make such a renovation, seek legal advice from a law firm other than the one you started this process with.

PS...I'm with setancre. I'm hoping your comment about the ceiling being 2 feet below grade is just a typo.

Posted by: 60designers at July 23, 2009 9:52 AM in response to Cellar Kitchen Compliant?

Architect here. It's not that simple a question given the limited info you've offered. Here's a few links that may help identify if your apartment in its current configuration is code compliant:

http://www.housingnyc.com/html/resources/hmc/sub3/art5.html
http://www.nyc.gov/html/hpd/html/owners/illegal-conversions.shtml

Posted by: 60designers at July 22, 2009 10:43 PM in response to Cellar Kitchen Compliant?

Yes, if you hire an architect to do the filing you'll be looking at fees for the architect and separate fees for an expediter, which is more costly than simply engaging the window manufacturer to take care of the entire filing. I think Modsquad's suggestion makes sense for the poster since they are planning no other work but these few windows. The $4,000 I mentioned was the cap...Most likely the fee would be far lower since the job would be billed hourly.


Posted by: 60designers at July 22, 2009 9:23 PM in response to Landmark Specs for Windows

Architect here.

When you replace windows in a landmark district, your architect will do more than just elevations. They'll need to provide detailed sections (both existing and proposed), a floor plan designating windows that will be replaced, provide a color sample, photo board showing existing windows and condition, etc. It's usually a bit more work than simple elevations.

Fees vary from architect to architect, but if it's a small job whose scope is literally just Landmarks and DOB filing, they'll probably charge an hourly rate for the work (that's what I would do). You should negotiate with the architect so there's a fee cap (not to exceed amount), otherwise the bill could be enormous. I'd assume between $4,000 and $5,000 total. You will also need an expediter to file both Landmarks and DOB filings, and that usually costs up to $3,000 + the cost of filing fees, asbestos tests, etc.

You architect will recommend manufacturers that can match the existing windows. There are numerous manufacturers that are on Landmarks approved list of manufacturers.

Good luck.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at July 22, 2009 6:46 PM in response to Landmark Specs for Windows

Architect here.

The truth is that architects tend to be more conservative when it comes to fire code because it is a liability to NOT be so. This is the same reason that structural engineers tend to over-design their solutions as well...to ensure that the safety and well-being of the inhabitants are not in question. Believe me, the liability involved with being lax on fire code is staggering, and it can result in the architect losing their license and career. Moreover, being more conservative with fire code is not necessarily a mistake, even if the end product was not what you really wanted.

I would probably have a different response if it was in relation to major millwork mistakes, or a lack of coordination between his/her consultants, or designing a plan that in no way fits the existing space, etc...but when it comes to fire and other safety codes, I have to side with the architect on this one. We generally do not go out of our way to research how close we can get to complying with code without actually breaking the law, and it's unreasonable to expect your architect to have done so for you.

If you completely disagree, you should have a discussion with them and see if you can work something out. I have worked for architects who have made adjustments to their fees if they felt it was warranted...Though if it was me, I have to admit I too would not offer to adjust my fee in this instance.

Posted by: 60designers at July 20, 2009 11:33 AM in response to Claims Against an Architect

boofer,

It's not illegal for your neighbor to keep rotting rolls of carpet and computer towers and an old toilet in their yard because those items do not pose safety hazards. However, constructing a tent in a rear yard may violate NYC code if it is erected without necessary permits and without adhering to the size and setback limitations set forth by the code. It's all about fire safety, and the OP is perfectly within his/her rights to research, complain, and challenge the erection of the tent if it does not comply.

Posted by: 60designers at July 16, 2009 3:08 PM in response to Neighbor's Huge Tent

dylanfan,

Noone said anything about needing to pay premium prices to get decent work. What I said was that if your renovation is small but involves numerous trades (especially ones involving plumbing and electrical), contractors tend to charge premium prices per Sq Ft because it requires more coordination and the sequencing of construction is more work. That's a fact. Is it possible to find someone to do the work cheaper? Of course. That's why I suggested pricing it with over 6 contractors. If you really know someone who can do excellent work at rock-bottom prices, that's great...and I hope the OP uses your contact successfully. But in most scenarios you get what you pay for.

Posted by: 60designers at July 16, 2009 12:06 PM in response to Labor Cost for Bath Reno?

Who's telling you you need fire rated doors? Inspector, contractor, DOB examiner?

Posted by: 60designers at July 16, 2009 10:15 AM in response to fire-rated door question

Phil,

You wrote, "A typical 5x7 bath with all the bells and whistles can be done in a week or less provided that the materials are not on back order and you have a large construction outfit doing the work."

A week or less? Sorry, but if Bullfrog can do a 5x7 in less than a week, then they're magicians. It doesn't matter how large the construction outfit is...you can't fit more then 2 construction workers at a time in a bathroom this size. And, some trades need time to dry before other work can continue, which will easily get you beyond the 1 week you claimed possible. Unless your Bullfroggers can scientifically change material properties and modify the way materials respond to air, I'd say your proclamation is impossible...Certainly not in the real world of contractor, subcontractor, scheduling, coordination, unforseen circumstances, etc.

The penalty clause was sarcasm.

Posted by: 60designers at July 16, 2009 9:56 AM in response to Bathroom renovation

Architect here. cmu is right, but I'd venture to say labor on gut renovations of 2 bathrooms is closer to 20-30K than 5K.

I'd like to add that in the past year or so contractor pricing has been all over the place. Some are pricing jobs high because they are trying to compensate for lack of work, some are pricing jobs low because they are trying to be extremely competitive (with the possible intention of covering themselves on change orders). It's impossible for us to answer your question. One thing is for sure, you have nearly every trade in the book in your renovation (demolition, plumbing, electric, tiling, plaster, millwork, etc) so you'll be paying a premium. These are not large spaces, so GC coordination amongst all the different trades will make this job more costly to the contractor per sq ft. Usually the smaller the job the higher the overhead and profit for the contractor, otherwise the job is usually not worth the effort. This is fairly typical.

If you want more competitive pricing, bid it out to at least 6 contractors. It's the only way you'll be able to know if the pricing you're getting is truly competitive.

Good luck, and feel free to email me if you have further questions.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at July 16, 2009 9:39 AM in response to Labor Cost for Bath Reno?

Architect here. You can reference Section 7 of the NYC Building Code - special uses and occupancies, article 19, regarding tent structures.

http://www.nyc.gov/html/dob/downloads/bldgs_code/bc27s7.pdf

Good luck.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at July 15, 2009 10:34 AM in response to Neighbor's Huge Tent

Phil,

I noted the typical duration for this work. Is it possible to do it in 2 weeks? Of course. But it's atypical given the number of trades involved.

Do you think your esteemed Bullfrog Builders would be willing to sign a penalty clause in the contract indicating that no matter what happens, the job will be completed to the client's satisfaction in exactly 2 weeks, including punchlist...and if not, the owner gets credited, say, $1,000 for each day exceeding that 2 weeks?

Posted by: 60designers at July 14, 2009 6:57 PM in response to Bathroom renovation

Architect here. Daveinbedstuy is right. In my experience, 2 weeks is the absolute minimum a renovated bathroom with this type of work will take. There are numerous trades involved, and not a large space to accommodate them all at once, so contractors will usually schedule one trade a day (demolition, plumbing, tile, electrical, painter, then back to plumbing, etc). This extends the construction time, but usually this is not avoidable.

Like Dave said, be sure to have everything (tile, fixtures, etc) ordered and delivered before construction begins, otherwise you'll surely run into issues.

If you're ripping out the existing tile floor, I hope you're planning on putting down a new waterproof membrane.

Be prepared for 3+ weeks in case there are any issues that emerge along the way.

Good luck.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at July 14, 2009 6:13 PM in response to Bathroom renovation

I should add one last thing...Ideally your architect submitted the project to Landmarks shortly after you approved a schematic design scheme, preparing documents and samples only necessary to attain Landmark approval. That way, during the months of waiting under Landmarks review, your architect would have time to fully develop the scheme and produce detailed construction documents, as well as prepare the DOB documents. If s/he proceeded to CD's before Landmark approval then it is possible s/he wasted time by not taking advantage of the extended period required for filing. But, again, I don't know enough details about how the job was run, so this is purely speculative on my part.

Posted by: 60designers at July 7, 2009 4:45 PM in response to Approvals Sob Story - Normal?

I'm an architect, so I thought I'd respond to your post. What you're experiencing sounds like the typical experience at Landmarks and the DOB nowadays for what you describe. 5 years ago you would be able to get away with filing this work in half the time it's taken you, but recent new filing requirements as well as public criticism of the DOB has made the process quite difficult and often lengthy. It is often difficult for architects to assess how long Landmarks will ponder your project before they respond and what clarifications they require. Depending on the reviewing person(s), it could be quick or slow. It is often out of the architect's hands. The expediter has a bit more sway, though even they can only do so much to push along NYC bureaucracy.

I should note that 4 months to get approval for a light fixture is not your architect's fault. Nor is the retroactive zoning analysis requirement. Landmarks normally responds to submissions on a timely basis (usually within 30 days), identifying their requirements for approval. If it has taken several months to issue these requirements, there is no way your architects could respond to their requests. This is all assuming that your architect submitted, in good faith, the materials they thought were required based on the scope of work planned. It sounds like a zoning analysis is unusual for the work you describe (unless there's something else you did not mention).

Here's a link to the Landmarks requirements in NYC, including expected time periods for reviews:
http://www.nyc.gov/html/lpc/html/faqs/faq_permit.shtml

You mention that you're adding a kitchen. If this means you're changing the C of O then the schedule you describe is quite common. In fact, you're doing pretty well compared to a lot of other people. This process is usually quite time consuming.

Additionally, there is no way for your architect to parallel process Landmarks and DOB. The DOB will not even look at your plans without Landmark approval.

Before you read Pickles response and get upset with your architect, I'd ask pickles to describe the extent of the work they did. I can only assume that theirs is much more modest than the renovation you're proposing. And, we don;t really know the full extent of the work you're doing, so it's a bit hard to judge.

I know none of my post is what you want to hear, but I've been in practice in NYC for over 10 years and this sounds quite common to me.

If you have further questions, please feel free to email me.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at July 7, 2009 4:27 PM in response to Approvals Sob Story - Normal?

Architect here...All the above is good advice. I'd like to add that if your roof does not have a 42" railing at the perimeter, then it cannot be occupied for personal use. Be prepared to suffer a serious lawsuit in the event a drunk partier decides to clamber towards the edge and fall to their death.

Posted by: 60designers at July 6, 2009 6:54 PM in response to Roof Party

Architect here. All the above advice is correct. The work described at the bathroom/closet would require filing with the DOB because it sounds like you're removing and adding walls.

Clarify one other thing for us: Are all plumbing fixtures being placed in the exact same location? Are you moving the roughing and/or adding more than 2 plumbing fixtures in the entire renovation? If so, you cannot simply file a plumbing repair application (LAA1 form), but must file the work as an an Alt II with the DOB. You will need a licensed architect or engineer to file the work.

Try not to let this stress you out too much...at 38 weeks, your health is more important.

If you need a quick plan generated and filed I may be able to help you. Just email me if you need help:
60designers@gmail.com


Posted by: 60designers at June 29, 2009 10:13 AM in response to What to do: Active Complaint DOB

Architect here. Just be sure you file the job with the DOB and it meets all relevant code requirements. If not, you're looking for trouble. And if the contractor you select is willing to build it without a work permit...well...no comment.
Good luck.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at June 19, 2009 11:30 AM in response to cost of building a loft

Architect here. I would furr out the wall using 7/8" hat channels and 5/8" gwb on top. You can easily shim the hat channels so that the wall is straight and vertical. If you have outlets on this wall, be sure it's shimmed enough so there is sufficient room for the electrical box. You can add plywood grounds in between the hat channels so any shelving you install can be screwed directly into the plywood.

Using 1x2 studs makes it more difficult to achieve a uniform, straight surface, especially if the brick surface is uneven.

Good luck.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at June 17, 2009 2:01 PM in response to Sheetrock on brick. Best way?

Frances,

I'm an architect. You certainly do not need to hire an architect for this work. If everything is as you say, and all plumbing appliances and fixtures are being placed on existing roughing and no partitions are moving or being demolished, then you do not need a licensed architect or engineer to file the job. You could get away with hiring the contractor on your own and managing the construction yourself. As an architect, I don't recommend that unless you've done renovations in the past, but people sometimes do it successfully...And other times you hear horror stories about the renovation experience and how it ended up costing 3x the original price and executed poorly. It all depends on the contractor selected and the familiarity you have with the construction process. Conversely, it's the architect's job to ensure the contractor executes the job according to spec and identify construction issues that otherwise could be overseen by an inexperienced eye.

In your case, this is a personal decision that can go wither way. If you have the energy and desire to take on this challenge yourself, then by all means you should do it yourself. If not, it's best to hire an architect to help you through the renovation. Just do yourself a favor if you do it yourself: Hire a contractor with a solid reputation who is trustworthy and highly recommended by former clients. Otherwise you are looking for trouble.

I hope this helps. Feel free to email me if you have any questions.

60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at June 15, 2009 7:52 PM in response to Architect/Contractor Overlap

I am an architect, so I thought I'd chime in. As suggested by the other posters, you really need to retain a licensed architect who is familiar with ground-up construction to review the property and offer some advice. Based on what you've told us, there appears to be no reason why you can't demolish and rebuild. I assume the site is not landmarked.

An architect will be able to determine if full site excavation is required or if you can build directly on top of the existing footings. They will be aware of any setback requirements, zoning issues, and Floor Area Ratio limitations you have on the property. You can request a feasibility study from the architect so you know exactly what can and cannot be done, the massing of the building, and a detailed analysis of the zoning limitations in your district. That way you can assess if the purchase is within reason, all before you even make an offer on the property. The architect would walk you through the entire construction process, design the building, coordinate with any necessary consultants (Plumbing, electrical, structural), help you competitively bid the project to qualified contractors, and legally file the work with the DOB.

I hope this helps. Feel free to email me if you have any questions.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at June 15, 2009 5:25 PM in response to New Residential Building

Architect here.

There's absolutely no need to install acrylic panels if you're already installing the cable system. It would provide no more safety for your kids. In fact, one could argue that acrylic is less safe because it can break into sharp shards.

There certainly is no need to do both. Just stick to the 4" rule with the cables and you and your family will be fine. Keep in mind that it is illegal to do the cables or even wooden balusters horizontally (as shown in the picture you posted). They must be installed vertically. Open treads must also adhere to the 4" rule. Any opening greater than 4" is considered illegal. This change came into effect July 1, 2008.

I hope this helps. Feel free to email if you have any other questions.

60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at June 12, 2009 10:57 AM in response to Open tread stairs and cable side

I am an architect...for residential jobs, most architects include a field survey of the property as part of their services. This should be included in their proposal. Only for very complicated spaces is a survey firm retained do this.

Good luck.
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at June 3, 2009 4:58 PM in response to How to get floorplanes?

Bohuma,

You say, "IMO if a tenant leaves an apartment in anything less than a pristine state, they've written off their security deposit and don't care. I've always left rental apartments as clean as (or cleaner than) when I moved in."

But, according to NYC Tenant Rights, "A landlord may use the
security deposit...only as reimbursement for the reasonable
cost of repairs beyond normal wear and tear, if the tenant
damages the apartment."

The key words here are "beyond normal wear and tear."

Sorry, Bohuma, but "pristine" condition doesn't allow for normal wear and tear. It is rather unreasonable for you to withhold payment of the security deposit if the apartment is in reasonably good condition.

That said, the original poster is well within his/her rights to withold in this circumstance. The condition described is in no way reasonable.

Posted by: 60designers at June 3, 2009 1:42 PM in response to Security Deductions

I'm an architect. Both thicknesses are fine and are commonly specified for shower doors. I prefer to specify 1/2 thick doors precisely because I like the weight of it...it feels more substantial when opening and closing. Don't let them tell you the hardware won't hold a 1/2" door if you DO go with the 1/2" option. Just have them move the pivot slightly closer to the center so the weight is properly distributed.

Are these frameless? If so, you should make them both the same thickness, otherwise one will protrude from the other, but that's an aesthetic judgment more than anything else. Just be sure to specify tempered glass in either scenario.

Good luck.

LB
60designers@gmail.com

Posted by: 60designers at May 27, 2009 6:14 PM in response to Frameless Shower Door Thickness

I am an architect and can say that the filing you're considering normally takes more than a year. Sure, sometimes it can be quicker, but more often than not it takes a good year or more. If you're frustrated with the length of time it's taking and you need to occupy the premises, your architect should have the expediter prepare a temporary C of O. This is a much quicker process which can be renewed down the line if the permanent change is still stuck at the DOB.

Are there other reasons you want to switch architects? Other problems with them? Keep in mind that much of the filing process is out of the architect's hands. I assume they've retained a reputable expediter who has relationships with the DOB? The expediter is the one who really can move the approvals forward.

Surely the architect has explained all this to you...or at least I hope they have.

If you have additional questions, feel free to contact me at 60designers@gmail.com

LB

Posted by: 60designers at May 22, 2009 9:58 AM in response to C of O change stuck in DOB!

Werbe,

With all due respect, I think you need to take a better look at the complaints on file at the DOB for this property.

Firstly, you list that there are 38 complaints against them. That is incorrect. They have 28, the other 10 complaints are for other properties. Of the 28, only 2 remain open, and those two were only recently made (most likely by you). The rest have been rescinded, found to be not objectionable by the inspector, or fully resolved.

Secondly, It is a construction site where a new building is being built. Of course there is noise. Of course there is ongoing work to be done with the sewers. Of course there will be annoyances to neighbors. That is the nature of development. I am an architect, so I know what occurs during construction. It's not all pretty, but it is necessary if improvement to infrastructure, neighborhoods, and community can be made. What you consider annoyances may actually be beneficial to the neighborhood in the long run. In this case, I believe it is.

Regarding working after hours, you are absolutely right. If they don't have a permit, then they are performing work illegally. But you should be aware that it is indeed possible to get weekend work permits.

Good luck dealing with the project. In the end, hopefully, you'll have a beautiful new building sitting next to your property. Moreover, I wish all future inhabitants of this property the best of luck dealing with you. No offense, but you sound like the neighbor from hell.

Posted by: 60designers at May 21, 2009 4:47 PM in response to 580 Carroll Developer Trying to Supersize Norten Project

Nice store, but it was doomed from the start. If they had only concentrated on luggage for rich babies, those park slope parents would have made them millionaires.

Posted by: 60designers at May 21, 2009 2:43 PM in response to StreetLevel: Flight 001 Leaving the Slope

Responses to Author's Forum Comments

Lil' ol' me at the bottom of the thread.

Everyone forgot something in the discussion about the great depression, the little depression, and the price of Mexicans.

That is, the price of materials. Copper, iron, and various other commodities have fallen dramatically from a year ago.

So, not only are many contractors less busy then usual and more interested in your business, the price of the materials they will have to buy is cheaper. And you yourself can probably get a better deal on cabinets, appliances, tile, and so on. And Cash for Refrigerators is coming up!

Posted by: denton at August 26, 2009 5:52 PM in response to Reno Prices Down?

Cash for Refrigerators!? What, pray tell, is that? I got one for em.

Posted by: mopar at August 26, 2009 6:19 PM in response to Reno Prices Down?

Mr. BHO,
Why do you always write "***Bid half off peak comps***"? What does it mean?

Posted by: brownlime at August 26, 2009 6:20 PM in response to Reno Prices Down?

Mopar, this is just in time for you! And I'm serious. I too thought it was a joke, but it's for real.

http://www.businessweek.com/bwdaily/dnflash/content/aug2009/db20090821_304909.htm

or

http://tinyurl.com/qp7zjk

Posted by: denton at August 26, 2009 6:35 PM in response to Reno Prices Down?

We did our 9x7 galley kitchen a few years ago for about $12k when all was said and done. Cabinets from Ikea (which we still love) with high-end hardware (which I got very cheaply on craigslist), mid-range stainless steel appliances, cork floor, glass tile backsplash, Silestone counters, Elke under-mount sink + Grohe faucet. We did all of the materials sourcing ourselves and got some amazing deals, which impressed our contractor (who we loved working with) very much. By doing a lot of the groundwork, design work and behind the scenes stuff ourselves, and leaving the physical labor and technical aspects to the contractor and his crew, we got the kitchen we wanted at the price we wanted and couldn't be happier with the results. We originally wanted to stay under $10k, but we decided to splurge on the floor and the backsplash and it was worth it. Only thing we left out was the overhead lighting (3 recessed cans were already there and we didn't change them), which I'd still like to replace. The under-cabinet lights were a nice touch, though (and so cheap from Ikea).

Posted by: laurie11201 at August 26, 2009 7:26 PM in response to Labor Cost for Kitchen Reno

I should add that we didn't relocate the plumbing or gas line - with the exception of running a water supply hose from the sink and dishwasher hookup through a wall channel to the opposite wall of the kitchen so we could connect the water/ice dispenser on the new fridge.

Posted by: laurie11201 at August 26, 2009 7:31 PM in response to Labor Cost for Kitchen Reno

Thanks!

Posted by: mopar at August 26, 2009 10:10 PM in response to Reno Prices Down?

brownlime,

I always write "Bid half off peak comps" because it's a stamp, slogan or tagline. It ties into my handle, BHO, which is my market call and can also be interpreted as a warning to market participants. "Bid" meaning your offer when shopping for a home if you "must". "peak comps" for the highest actual comparable sales per property type, condition and location, versus asking price which can be way off. Hope this helps.

***Bid half off peak comps***

Posted by: Brownstones Half Off at August 27, 2009 11:40 AM in response to Reno Prices Down?

edifice rex: of course i'm still reading...i can't bail out on my OP with
this much action and info. :-)
Thanks for your advice. i didnt think a reno would be clearance prices
but every little bit helps.

Posted by: CGmodern at August 27, 2009 2:11 PM in response to Reno Prices Down?

We are a design build firm and would be happy to give you a bid for your kitchen. Because we design and build our prices are often less than hiring a designer and a contractor. As far the economy is concerned, we all want to be competitive. We give the lowest cost we can while still paying the bills, paying insurance, etc. Most costs have NOT come down, so we live with a little less because we don't have as much work. You can email me at tmartin@wedesign-nyc.com if you are interested.

Good luck!

Posted by: triciaely at August 27, 2009 9:31 PM in response to Reno Prices Down?