Brooklyn’s Last Humpback Street Sign



We missed this when it went up last week but it’s too good not to post. Forgotten NY, that tenacious chronicle of old time Gotham, ran this photo of the “the last of Brooklyn’s ‘humpback’ street signs.” You can see that the smaller street that Willoughby intersected with once upon a time was Hudson Avenue. A commenter points out that this section of Hudson was removed to make way for Long Island University campus, though a one-block stretch of the street still exists between Dekalb and Fulton.

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Walkabout: Green-Wood’s Tragic Guardian



(Illustration: The Keeper’s Lodge, Green-Wood, from Green-Wood Illustrated, 1847)

Green-Wood Cemetery is one of Brooklyn’s historical treasures. The land for Green-Wood was acquired in 1838, and by the turn of the 20th century, the cemetery had grown in size and popularity to be one of New York State’s most popular tourist attractions, as well as THE place to have your mortal remains spend eternity. The cemetery takes up 478 acres of hills, valleys and plains, with thousands of monuments, headstones and mausoleums, connected by an interconnected series of roads and byways. It was, and is, a park of enormous proportions. By the end of the 1800’s, it was necessary for this park to have its own police force, dedicated to keeping order, and preventing crime. In 1899, you might think that patrolling the land of the dead would be an easy job, but it would prove fatal to Captain Peter D. Lark, the head of the Cemetery Police Force. (more…)

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Walkabout: Madame Jones comes to Brooklyn



(Photo:Wikipedia)

When I was in college, I wrote an ambitious paper about black people in Classical music. At the time, Leontyne Price, Grace Bumbry and Shirley Verrett were among the best known of a small group of classically trained singers who were changing the face of opera in the 1970’s, and I wanted to know about them, and become one of them. These ladies, as well as the other men and women who were in the profession, had to overcome skepticism, criticism on both sides of the racial divide, and out and out racism from many sources in order to become the great divas they were (and are.) But they never let the “isms” stop them from succeeding, and today are legends, and the inspirations for later singers like Jessye Norman, who would later inspire younger singers like me, and so on down the generational line. They, in turn, gave credit to earlier ladies like Marian Anderson, the first black singer at the Metropolitan Opera. They also gave their props to some amazing figures of the late 19th century, African American divas who took the Western world by storm. Brooklyn was an important stop in any diva’s tour schedule, so in this month of Black History, let’s celebrate the remarkable career of one of the greats, Madame Matilda Sissieretta Joyner Jones, known internationally as “the Black Patti.” (more…)

By Montrose Morris | | Comment

Walkabout: Death Rides the Rails, part 3



(Lead car and motorman’s station is hardly damaged, but the second car is almost gone. Photo: Popularmechanics.org.)

In the aftermath of great disasters, there is always the need for assigning blame, and seeking justice. In the case of the Malbone Street Wreck, which killed at least 93 people, and seriously injured over 200 more, that need was great. The people demanded answers, and a newly elected and ambitious mayor had his own agenda.

In Parts One and Two of our story, we learned how Edward Luciano, a young train dispatcher with the Brooklyn Rapid Transit line, was pressed into service as a train motorman, when the motormen’s union called a strike, on November 1, 1918. With hurried training, and only a few hours practice, he was given a double shift driving the train, and by the time he started his second shift, here on the Brighton Line, it was dark, late in the day, and he was still inexperienced. (more…)

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Walkabout: Death Rides the Rails, part 2



(Photograph: thepublicI.com)

As any experienced train motorman will tell you, it’s not driving the train that’s hard, it’s making the stops. Brake too early, and the train stops before reaching the platform, and you have to lurch into the station. Brake too late, and you overshoot the platform and have to back up. Go too fast, and brake too late, and you are in the perfect position for disaster. This was exactly what happened to an inexperienced motorman named Edward Luciano, as he approached the Malbone Street tunnel on the Brooklyn Rapid Transit line, at 6:42 pm, on November 1, 1918. What followed was the worst transit disaster in the history of the New York City subway system, a disaster so horrific that the name “Malbone Street” became too painful a reminder of the tragedy, and the street itself was re-named Empire Boulevard. We began the story in the last Walkabout. Here’s what happened that fateful day: (more…)

By Montrose Morris | | Comment

Walkabout: Death Rides the Rails, part 1



(Photo: nyctransitforums.com)

When I first came to New York, in 1977, I was fascinated by the subway. It is, after all, the lifeblood of the city, coursing along its arteries, from the head of the Bronx, through the body of Manhattan, to the limbs of Brooklyn, and Queens. Even though I was introduced to the trains at probably the worst time in their history, it was still a magical conveyance that could take you anywhere. Every car was covered in graffiti, and the heat, or the fans never worked, in the days before air conditioning, but still…New York! I was very taken by the different lines, the names and numbers, and the beauty that you could still see in the older stations, so I bought a book on the history of the subway system, and that was my first introduction to the story about the worst subway disaster in New York’s history; the Malbone Wreck. I didn’t live in Brooklyn at the time, so I had no idea where Malbone Street was. When Brooklyn became my home, and its streets became very familiar to me, the story resonated even more. If you aren’t familiar with what happened, and don’t know where Malbone Street is, don’t worry. You aren’t clueless. Malbone Street itself died with the nearly one hundred people who perished in the trains that horrible day, long ago in 1918. Today it is known as Empire Boulevard. (more…)

By Montrose Morris | | Comment

Walkabout: Architecture – Good Queen Anne



(Herkimer St. between Nostrand and New York Avenues, Bedford Stuyvesant.)

When trying to determine what architectural style a building is, there is a tendency to call anything Victorian, that you can’t otherwise identify, as “Queen Anne.” It’s almost a joke when you are walking around with fellow architecture geeks. “What would you call that? I can’t quite put a name to it…must be Queen Anne.” “Yeah, Queen Anne.” Well, poor Queen Anne! Her name is synonymous with the catch pile of architectural nomenclature and style. How in the world did a little-known (to Americans, anyway) queen of England become the name of an entire period of architecture that took place almost 200 years after her death? What is Queen Anne architecture, anyway? I have to share a hilarious typo from antiquehome.org as to the definition of QA: “Popular from about 1860 to 1890 in England and somewhat later in the US, the Queen Anne style lent itself to the excesses of the Victorian age with its turrets, oriel windows, and medieval influences. Beloved by lumber barons and railroad maggots alike, many of the largest and most spectacular homes of the early 20th century were built in this style.” Ha! (more…)

By Montrose Morris | | Comment

Walkabout: Rev. Talmage’s Tabernacle-Pride Goeth…



(Photo: Brooklyn Museum Archives)

On a spring Sunday morning, right after church services, on May 13, 1894, the great organ of the Brooklyn Tabernacle burst into flames. Within a matter of minutes, the fire spread to other parts of the church, like a flame going through a match box, and by the end of the day, the entire church was a burned out ruin. Not only did the fire destroy the third incarnation of the Brooklyn Tabernacle, it also destroyed the brand new Regent Hotel right next door, as well as caused damage to at least twelve other buildings in the immediate vicinity, including another church a block away. It was a conflagration of Biblical proportions, fed by flammable materials and a strong wind that blew burning cinders for blocks.

The church was called “Talmage’s Tabernacle” after its famous preacher, who had turned the church around, in less than twenty years, from a twelve member congregation to a mega-church with almost 3,000 members and another 2,000 weekly guests. The Reverend Doctor Thomas DeWitt Talmage had the gift of oratory, like no one else in Brooklyn since the great Rev. Henry Ward Beecher, and a Sunday service in his church was a spiritual, theatrical and musical experience that couldn’t be missed. (more…)

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Walkabout: Rev. Talmage’s Tabernacle-Cleansing Fire



(Interior of the third Talmage Tabernacle, Clinton Avenue. Photo: nycago.org)

If your church burns down once, it can inspire a congregation to build again; larger, stronger and better. If the new building, in the same location as the first, burns down fifteen years later, in the midst of a violent thunderstorm, you might take it as a sign that it’s time to find another part of town to build in. This is exactly what the minister, board and congregation of the Brooklyn Tabernacle thought after their church, called Talmage’s Tabernacle, burned to the ground for the second time, in 1889. The first two churches had been on the edge of Downtown Brooklyn, on Schermerhorn Street, between Nevins and Third Avenue. After a search for a suitable property, it was announced that the third Talmage’s Tabernacle would rise on Clinton Avenue, at the corner of Greene Avenue, in fashionable Clinton Hill. (more…)

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Walkabout: Rev. Talmage’s Tabernacle – The Trial



(Rev. Dr. T. DeWitt Talmage. Photo: Autobiography, T. De Witt Talmage

The Second Presbyterian Church, at the Corner of Fulton and Clinton Street, was the site for the ecclesiastical “Trial of the Century” of popular preacher Rev. Dr. Thomas DeWitt Talmage, of the Brooklyn Tabernacle. There, he was to be held accountable for actions taken in his career, actions that his accusers told the larger Presbytery had been against church law. This was quite an accusation to make against one of Brooklyn’s most famous and popular ministers, a man who was second only to the great Rev. Henry Ward Beecher in popularity and standing. His enormous church, fondly called “Talmage’s Tabernacle”, was packed every Sunday, and Talmage was called upon by churches and important people across the United States and Europe, to speak and give advice. His sermons and lectures were circulated in pamphlets and books, and his church services were legendary for his enthusiastic, but intellectually stimulating sermons, and the thundering music of praise coming from the powerful organ, its massive pipes rising majestically behind the pulpit. At the keyboard of this instrument was George W. Morgan, one of the 19th century’s finest and most well-known organists. Talmage and Morgan made quite a team, and on that day in March, 1879, that team lay at the root of the some of the charges. (more…)

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Walkabout: Rev. Talmage’s Tabernacle–”Organgate”



(Second Talmage Tabernacle, 1874. Photo: NY Public Library)

During the second half of the 19th century, the Reverend Doctor Thomas DeWitt Talmage was one of Brooklyn’s most famous preachers. Into his church, the Brooklyn Tabernacle, better known as “Talmage’s Tabernacle”, he brought passion, intelligence, wit, and not a little theatricality to his pulpit, and used those tools to persuade and cajole his audiences up to, and through, the gates of salvation. In this endeavor, he joined Henry Ward Beecher, and a handful of other 19th century Brooklyn preachers, as the mega-church pastors of their day. Although there were, and still are, dynamic preachers who literally scare the hell out of people with fire and brimstone pronouncements, Rev. Talmage’s sermons were instead much more intellectual, had practical and worldly references, and appealed to his urbane and sophisticated audience of Victorian-era Brooklynites, resulting in huge crowds of people coming each Sunday to hear him preach. (more…)

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Walkabout: Reverend Talmage’s Tabernacle, part 1



(Illustration: Wikipedia)

Brooklyn was not named the “City of Churches” only because of the many fine church buildings that graced her streets. She was also famous for some of the great men who took to their pulpits in these fine churches and thundered down the Word of the Lord to their congregations. The Reverend Henry Ward Beecher was probably the most famous of these 19th century preachers, and his sermons and anti-slavery fervor made him world famous. But he was not alone. The second half of the 19th century saw the rise of several other famous preachers, with the Reverend Dr. Thomas DeWitt Talmage probably second only to Henry Beecher himself, in terms of popularity, and the size of his congregation. Rev. Talmage, like Beecher, was a charismatic man, a speaker of great oratorical skill, and could fill a room like few others. And, like his fellow clergyman in the Heights, the Reverend Talmage’s triumphs, tragedies and tribulations were larger than life, as well. (more…)

By Montrose Morris | | Comment

Walkabout: Selling Christmas 1883



(Christmas at Loeser’s in 1937. Photo: Brooklyn Public Library)

Every Christmas we hear complaints that the season has become less about good will towards all mankind, and more about goods bought and sold. Sadly, it has long been thus. For as long as the great shopping districts of our cities have been in existence, there has been the Christmas rush. In Brooklyn, in the late 19th century, Fulton Street, between the Heights and Flatbush Avenue had become such a shopping district. We still see the remnants of the great stores, and still have the storefronts of many of the original 19th century buildings, although most are hard to recognize now. But modern folk would still recognize the art of the sale.

Christmas of 1883 presented the buying public a cornucopia of goods. The Brooklyn Eagle, which made a lot of money selling ads to these same people, graciously spent an entire page of the paper giving the shopper of ’83 the highlights of what was in local stores. Reading through this is gives a fascinating look at culture, and a reminder that we really haven’t changed all that much. It also shows the huge variety of stores and services that once were available here, many of which are long gone. Here are a few highlights of a piece called “Holiday Goods: Santa Claus in Brooklyn and what he brings”: (more…)

By Montrose Morris | | Comment

Walkabout: Saving St. John the Baptist Church



(Photo from early 1900′s)

Brooklyn’s not the “Borough of Churches” for nothing. From store-front chapels to enormous cathedrals, Brooklyn’s got church going on up in here. But all of these houses of worship depend on the pocketbooks of parishioners to keep the roof over their heads, literally, and far too many churches have not been able to do so, especially in neighborhoods that are not as wealthy as they once were. Especially among Catholic churches, the sacrifice of 19th century immigrant families to build parishes in their new neighborhoods, has led to some of the most magnificent churches in the borough, and in the case of St. John the Baptist Church, in what is now Bedford Stuyvesant, what a magnificent church! But can it survive? Here’s a look at its long history.

Brooklyn’s 21st Ward, which was also known as the Eastern District, was home to a growing population of Irish and German Catholics. As this population grew and prospered in their new communities, more and more parishes were needed to fill their spiritual needs. In 1868, the Vincentian Order announced the building of a Catholic college in Brooklyn, one that would be “a college for the education of the youth of Brooklyn, without distinction of religious belief, political opinion, or social condition.” This was only for boys, of course. But before the college could be built, a parish was needed, and a church was established, called Mary, Queen of the Isles, an apt name for this mostly Irish congregation. While the big plans were on hand for the college, it was decided to build a small wooden parish church on the back part of the large grounds purchased for the college. (more…)

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Walkabout: Brooklyn’s Abraham & Straus, part 2



(1930′s Abraham & Straus new addition. Photo: Museum of the City of New York)

Before Brooklyn became part of New York City, there was an Abraham & Straus. The iconic Brooklyn department store was founded as Wechsler and Abraham in 1865, as a small dry goods shop on Fulton Street, between Washington and Johnson Streets. By 1883, the store had expanded, filling the new cast iron-fronted Wheeler Building on Fulton Street, between Gallatin Place and Hoyt St. By the time Nathan and Isidor Straus family bought out Wechsler and changed the name to Abraham & Straus, it was 1893, and the store, and Brooklyn itself, was at its peak. Since moving to its present location, the store encompassed the entire block faced by Fulton, Gallatin, Livingston and Hoyt. In addition, Abraham & Straus also had a series of warehouses across Brooklyn, with the closest being only blocks away on State Street, between Court and Boreum. They also had a system of catalogue stores to serve customers on Long Island, filling orders from those warehouses.

The store on Fulton Street was decked out in the finest quality furnishings and the displays were opulent, featuring the best the retail world had to order in a large number of departments. Abraham & Straus was truly a shopping wonder, a store who’s only real rival in Brooklyn was Frederick Loeser’s Department Store, a couple of blocks away, on Fulton Street. Other large and important retailers like Namm’s and Martin’s would later come to Fulton Street, but these two stores were the biggest, the fanciest, and the best. (more…)

By Montrose Morris | | Comment

Walkabout: Brooklyn’s Abraham & Straus



(Photo: Abraham and Straus, 1904. Brooklyn Public Library)

In today’s fragile economy and cultural hurly-burly, holiday shopping has lost its charm and whimsy to price slashing, in your face, heavy duty bargain hunting. Christmas shopping is no longer the time to lovingly and carefully choose the perfect gift for a loved one; it’s a time to knock someone out in order to score a flat screen television for a bargain basement price, and make a profit for cash starved retailers. When I was a child, (dinosaur alert!) the classic hunt for a perfect present for a parent or sibling took place in a department store, one of those magical places where a child would be enraptured by what seemed to be an immense store full of glittery and bright Christmas decorations, fanciful wrapped boxes of presents stacked everywhere, and Santa Claus in the toy department. All amidst departments that sold anything you could possibly imagine, staffed by kind people who were there to make your dreams come true. This was true even in the small town I grew up in, where the stores were not really immense by any stretch of the imagination, but nowhere was it more true than in New York City. (more…)

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Walkabout: “The Great Mistake”, conclusion


What must have it been like to wake up in Brooklyn, on January 1, 1898, and realize that you were not in an independent city; you were now a part of Greater New York City? To be no longer the captain of your own team, but now only one of the players on someone else’s team. I would imagine for most people, especially the average working man in New York, the consolidation meant nothing, and it was just another New Year’s Day. Some Brooklynites embraced the change, eager to take advantage of the opportunities offered by the new rules. And some people, who were dead set against the whole thing, raged, mourned, and took pen in hand to complain, unable to do much more than stand, like Lee at Appomattox, and surrender their sword, outvoted, outgunned, and defeated.

The Brooklyn Eagle printed a lengthy complaint from one of these men, a citizen of Brooklyn who signed his letter “One to Serve”: “What would be the vote if Brooklyn’s citizens could vote again? Secession would be our rule. We would declare ourselves to be the City of Brooklyn, and that by an overwhelming vote…If we stay where we are and see taken from the borough offices everything that looked so promising in the massive charter to the citizen of Brooklyn, what satisfaction will it be? Where are we to get compensation for the great sacrifice we have made? What will be our reward? Will there be any? Will not the future generation arise up and condemn us to the surrender of the charter of a great city to become only one-fifth part of another city, whose moral forces were not to be compared to the City Of Churches?” (more…)

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Walkabout: “The Great Mistake”, part 3



Currier & Ives print of Brooklyn. (Wikipedia)

Some like to think of the creation of Greater New York City as a battle of good and evil: “good” Brooklyn, the City of Churches and Homes, versus “evil” Manhattan, the City of graft, corruption and power run amok, and, as we all know, evil won. Well, like in all things, it’s never that simple. The real story is that there was enough power and corruption to go around, and the inevitability of the whole thing was probably in place from the day the Dutch started settling on both sides of the river.

It started with the waterfronts and rivers, and Manhattan always had the advantage. From the very beginning, it grabbed control of the bays, the East River, the Hudson and Harlem Rivers. When ferries began crossing back and forth to Brooklyn, Staten Island, New Jersey, the Bronx and Queens, they were all under a Manhattan-centric schedule and control. Water traffic was the lifeline of the city of New York, with goods and services coming and going, and people commuting to the financial and business center of Lower Manhattan. With everything and everyone coming to Manhattan, it was inevitable that a greater city would center in Manhattan. (more…)

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Walkabout: “The Great Mistake”, part 2



(Political cartoon, 1894. Edward O’Donnell)

On January 1, 1898, the City of New York officially rose from the collection of cities, towns and neighborhoods that made up Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, Staten Island and the Bronx. For those who had worked for close to twenty years to make this happen, it was a glorious day. For the common folk of New York, business probably just went on as usual. One could argue that Queens remained a collection of towns, loosely connected, and pretty independent, with much of it suburban in nature. One could certainly say that about Staten Island as well, which to this day doesn’t seem to really be a part of New York City. The Bronx has had a closer relationship with Manhattan, at least the southern part of the Bronx, just across the Harlem River, which Manhattan had already annexed, but the rest of the Bronx would also remain a collection of neighborhoods, much later, simply passed over by Robert Moses’ highway system. Northernmost Riverdale has always been more suburb than city. And then you have the relationship between Manhattan and Brooklyn. (more…)

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Walkabout: “The Great Mistake”, part 1



With Brooklyn’s newly crowned status as the newest “Hippest Place on Earth” in 2011, comes some nostalgic feelings about the “Great Mistake”, the consolidation of New York City. On that fateful day, January 1, 1898, Brooklyn, the city, disappeared, and Brooklyn, the “outer borough”, was born. (As were the Bronx, Queens and Staten Island.) The decision to join all of the counties surrounding Manhattan into one central city was not made easily, quickly, or lightly. Politicians, businessmen, city fathers and ordinary citizens argued and lobbied for, or against this for almost twenty years. Involved was a tremendous amount of money and power, business interests, tax revenues, city bureaucracies, and social issues and civic identity. For some people, it was inevitable and progressive. For others, it was the end of the world as they knew it. For them, it was the Death of Brooklyn. The law that created the municipality of New York City was signed into law on May 1, 1897, but the talking and the negotiating had been going on for years beforehand, particularly between the city of Brooklyn, and the city of New York. (more…)

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