Walkabout: Trashing Atlantic Avenue, part 2

(Atlantic Avenue, near Nostrand. 1920. Photo: Brooklyn Public Library)
In March of 1912, the Real Estate Record and Builder’s Guide, the bible of late 19th and early 20th century building in New York City, published a long article about the future of Atlantic Avenue, that great east-west corridor that joins the East River to Queens. In our first chapter, we saw that development of Atlantic Avenue depended greatly on the operations and machinations of the Long Island Railroad. For more on this, please read chapter one. Due to the railroads path, on or above the avenue, it seemed, even in 1912, that the avenue would never be more than garages and factories. Going on from there, the article stated that “It is a significant and a lamentable fact that a majority of the sales of real estate on Atlantic Avenue have been in foreclosure.” (more…)
Walkabout: Trashing Atlantic Avenue, part 1

(Railroad crossing at Atlantic and Bedford Avenues, 1905. Photo: New York Public Library)
Atlantic Avenue is one of Brooklyn’s great thoroughfares, today stretching from the East River waterfront to Jamaica, Queens. It is Brooklyn’s only east-west truck route, and serves a vital purpose in getting goods and people from Long Island to the East River and beyond. Like much of Brooklyn, its origins lie with Dutch settlement, and in fact it began as a private road, ending at Ralph Patchen’s farm on the East River, in the early 1700s.
As Brooklyn grew, that road became District Street, the southernmost boundary of the Village of Brooklyn, which was incorporated in 1816. That’s certainly hard to imagine now, and it didn’t take long for that to be obsolete. By 1855, as the street grid developed, District Street became Atlantic Street, running parallel to Pacific Street next door. In the 1870’s the street, already a busy thoroughfare, became an Avenue, running all the way to Nassau County. (more…)
Brooklyn Sites Lead PIP Grant Awards

Looks like the top two winners of the much-hyped Partners in Preservation grants went to sites in Brooklyn. Though the official winners haven’t been announced yet (that will come later today), as of last night the #1 pick was the Brooklyn Public Library, which will receive its full grant request of $250,000 for the historic front doors. Second up was the Congregation Beth Elohim, which will get $250,000 for a comprehensive restoration of the roof, parapets, dome, and stained glass. (CBE really fought for its grant money, as evidenced here.) In third and fourth place were the restoration of the man-made cascade at the NY Botanical Garden and the restoration of landmarked gardens at the Bartow-Pell Mansion Museum & Gardens. The top four sites will receive the full grant requests, the other 36 historical sites will receive the leftovers of the $3 million. UPDATE: The four winners have been announced, click through for details!
Vote to Preserve NYC Historic Places [Brownstoner]
Photo by jordanguile (more…)
Tobacco Warehouse to St. Ann’s in Bridge Park Deal
An agreement reached [yesterday] will provide for the expansion of Brooklyn Bridge Park and for the preservation of historic structures at the Park, substituting new parkland for any lost if regulatory approvals are secured to re-use the structures for other cultural or commercial purposes. The New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation, Brooklyn Bridge Park, Brooklyn Bridge Park Development Corporation, Brooklyn Heights Association, Fulton Ferry Landing Association, New York Landmarks Conservancy, Preservation League of New York State, and St. Ann’s Warehouse, a non-profit Brooklyn-based performing arts organization, have settled a disagreement over the process for developing part of the park, which houses two historically significant structures. The Agreement – which resulted from litigation brought by the Brooklyn Heights Association, the Fulton Ferry Landing Association, the New York Landmarks Conservancy, and the Preservation League of New York State — will require state legislation and National Park Service approval to effectuate any development and re-use of the structures. Subsequent to this agreement, State Senator Daniel Squadron and Assemblywoman Joan Millman secured an additional community planning process and expanded community participation. The agreement will allow for the preservation and adaptive re-use of the historic Empire Stores as a mixed-use retail and commercial development that will provide vital revenue to help fund Brooklyn Bridge Park’s operation and maintenance costs. These improvements will restore the Empire Stores, which is currently in deteriorated condition and closed to the public. The agreement also sets the stage for the preservation of the Tobacco Warehouse and starts a process to secure regulatory approval for re-use of that structure as a cultural and community-use venue. Redevelopment of the Tobacco Warehouse would create a theater space, an outdoor public garden, and a community room for use by schools, community organizations and the public. St. Ann’s Warehouse has been conditionally designated as the lessee of the Tobacco Warehouse.
The Daily News has a translation of the news in English that is comprehensible: “Under the settlement, the St. Ann’s plan, which includes a theater space and an outdoor garden, will be able to go forward – eventually. First, city officials will have to get state legislation and approval from the National Parks Service for the development, expected to take about a year. The city will move the paint shed and water meter testing facility currently located under the bridge and turn it into part of the park, a Bloomberg spokeswoman said.” Here’s hoping this all works out.
Brooklyn Bridge Park to Expand Under Deal to Settle Tobacco Warehouse Lawsuit [NY Daily News]
Recognize This Home?

An out-of-town reader writes in: “We are looking to find my adopted grandfather’s history and all we have is a couple of pictures of him in front of his house in Brooklyn. My mother has been searching for years within legal documents to no avail, and I am hoping these images are a clue to the location. I think the number on top say 335 – but these pictures are from the early 1900′s – so things may have changed a bit. I know you all see A LOT of locations, so I was wondering if this building structure looks like a specific place, or has the housing design of a specific section of Brooklyn?” Can anyone offer any help?
Details on the Sacred Sites Open House Weekend
Yesterday we mentioned the open house at Brown Memorial Church in Clinton Hill, which, it turns out, is part of a huge open house weekend for sacred sites around New York State. The NY Landmarks Conservancy is hosting its second annual state-wide Sacred Sites Open House weekend, which means hundreds of New York religious institutions will open their doors to people from the community. There are eight open house locations in Brooklyn: Brown Memorial Church on May 19th from 11 to 2:30pm; the Church of St. Ann and the Holy Trinity on May 19th 2 to 4pm; Congregation Beth Elohim on May 19th, 6 to 7pm, with a concert at 7-8:30; the Old First Reformed Church on May 20th, 1 to 5pm; Our Lady of Lebanon Cathedral at May 20th 1 to 4pm; Plymouth Church on May 19th, 12 to 4pm; St. Pauls Evangelical Lutheran Church of Williamsburg on May 19th from 10am to 4pm (with an unveiling of new Landmark plaque 1pm); and Temple Beth Emeth (pictured) on May 19th 1 to 3pm. Go to the website to see a list of all the participating sites.
Temple Beth Emeth by Forgotten NY
Past and Present: Polo Fields in Prospect Park
A Look at Brooklyn, then and now.
The first polo game played in Prospect Park took place on June 11, 1879. It was between the Westchester Polo Club and a club from Queens. Up until that day, the sport of polo had a totally different meaning to Brooklyn’s sports lovers. “Polo” meant ice polo, a game we now call hockey. It had been played in Brooklyn for several years, inaugurated by the Crescent Athletic Club, and other well-to-do sports clubs. They played in the Clermont Rink in Fort Greene, playing clubs from local colleges like Yale and Columbia, as well as other sports clubs.
As Brooklyn was getting richer, so too were her sports. Polo, the game with horses, had been played in Persia for centuries. A version of it traveled to the east, and was in play for hundreds of years in India, before it was encountered by bored aristocratic British officers stationed in that country, in the middle of the 19th century. Two British soldiers started a polo club to introduce the sport to their countrymen, and the game took off and has been popular ever since. It’s basically football on horses. (more…)
Walkabout: America’s Best Bad Actor, Corse Payton, 2
(Corse Payton, Etta Reed Payton and servant, backstage at their theater, 1903. Photo: Museum of the City of New York)
In our last post, we met Corse Payton, self-billed as “America’s Best Bad Actor.” He enjoyed an extremely popular stage career at the end of the 19th century, working well into the Depression years. Like many New York City success stories, Payton’s began in the Midwest, as a county sheriff’s wayward son, in a town called Centerville, Iowa. For more of his early exploits, please see Part One of our story.
After many years of successfully touring Midwestern states and cities, Corse Payton, along with his wife and leading lady, Etta Reed, turned their sights to New York, specifically Brooklyn. The Great White Way of Manhattan’s theater district was legendary, but so too was Brooklyn’s huge collection of theaters, spread throughout the city. Downtown Brooklyn was one large theater hub. Another was Williamsburg, and it was here that their company put down roots. From here they could take all of New York by storm. (more…)
Walkabout: America’s Best Bad Actor, Corse Payton
Does anyone remember the Saturday Night Live sketches by Jon Lovitz featuring his “Master Thespian”? Mr. Thespian was an outrageous ham, over enunciating everything, indicating broadly, affecting a bad upper-crust accent, and in general, being everything that anyone could possibly want in a bad actor, all wrapped up in a dapper smoking jacket. Corse Payton was the living embodiment of the Master Thespian. Between 1900 and 1915, he operated his own theater in Brooklyn, called Corse Payton’s Lee Avenue Theater, in Williamsburg. He made a career out of bad acting, and probably cut a fine figure in a smoking jacket as well. He would be the first to tell you so, too. But backstage, the ultimate ACT-tor was a brilliant business mind and a keen observer of popular culture. This is his story. Like many contemporary Brooklyn stories, it begins, most auspiciously, on a farm in Iowa. (more…)
Walkabout: The Lords of Owl’s Head, part 3
(Photo: Matt, for imjustwalkin.com)
When the Brooklyn industrialist Eliphalet W. Bliss died in 1903, he stipulated in his will that his estate, called Owl’s Head, should become a city park, open for the enjoyment of all. Owl’s Head, aka the Bliss Estate, was a large property nestled on the promontory overlooking the Narrows, in the neighborhood of Bay Ridge. Before Bliss, the estate had belonged to a former mayor of Brooklyn, a man named Henry C. Murphy, who was indeed one of the great movers and shakers of mid-19th century Brooklyn. In the first chapter of our story, we learned that Murphy had been the legislator who wrote the bill authorizing the Brooklyn Bridge. That bill was signed here in his home at Owl’s Head. Our second chapter told the tale of E.W. Bliss, whose huge munitions and metal stamping plants in Bush Terminal could be seen from his front porch, a highly successful man who built an observation tower on the property so he could see for miles around, watching the sea traffic in the great bay below. Nearby streets still reference the estate’s past owners, Bliss Terrace for E.W., and Senator Street, for Henry Murphy. (more…)
Walkabout: The Lords of Owl’s Head, part 2
(Original design for Owl’s Head Stables, by Parfitt Brothers, as published in a German architectural magazine. Illustration: periodpapers.com)
High above what is now the Narrows of New York Bay, the movement of a vast glacier moving towards the sea millions of years ago created a hill overlooking the great bay, one that afforded a view of great beauty. The Canarsee people appreciated this view, as did the Dutch who came after them. The land and the view was also quite desirable for Henry C. Murphy, one of Brooklyn’s most admired men, a scholar, attorney, State Senator, Mayor of Brooklyn, founder of the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, and the Brooklyn Historical Society, Congressman and philanthropist. A very busy man. A man of this importance needs a place to get away from the hustle and bustle, and Mr. Murphy did so by buying this most desirable of plots, and building a large country villa on it, one that afforded him an unparalleled view of the bay, and the surrounding area. This was the place where Murphy signed the authorization to build the Brooklyn Bridge, and other important legislation. Right here, in Bay Ridge, where another great bridge would one day cross this same bay, many years later. Part one of our story tells Murphy’s tale. When he died in 1882, the house passed on to another powerful man who made a great impact on New York, and the world. His name was Eliphalet W. Bliss. (more…)
Closing Bell: PIP Open Houses This Weekend
It’s fantastic to see all the open houses pop up in anticipation of the Partners and Preservation grant awards. There are nine scheduled for this weekend in Brooklyn alone. (And have you voted for your favorite restoration project yet?) Pictured above, the the Coney Island History Project will hold an open house for the B & B Carousel from noon to 4pm. Since the carousel is away in Ohio being restored, architectural renderings, photos, and film of the restoration process will be on view. There will also be a contest to name the first horse. Other Open Houses in Brooklyn include the Greenpoint Manufacturing and Design Center, the Brooklyn Public Library, and the Tug Pegasus & Waterfront Museum Barge. The map of all BK locations can be peeped here [PDF]. Make sure to send along pictures of the historic sites you visit if this is part of your weekend!
Vote to Preserve NYC Historic Places [Brownstoner]
Photo by the Coney Island History Project
Walkabout: The Lords of Owl’s Head, part 1
(Henry C. Murphy villa, overlooking the Narrows, Bay Ridge. Photo taken in 1915, reflects changes made after Murphy’s ownership. Photo: nycgovparks.)
The shoreline of New York Bay, specifically the Narrows, in Bay Ridge, near the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, is one of Brooklyn’s most naturally beautiful places. Even today, with the highways, the buildings, and the bridge itself, it’s still easy to imagine what Canarsee Indians, then the Dutch, must have thought when seeing it. The bay is a truly beautiful sight.
Bay Ridge is part of New Utrecht, one of the six original towns that make up Kings County. It was settled in 1657 by the Dutch, and for most of its history, until the mid-19th century, was a quiet agrarian community, with farms, country villas, and the small villages of Yellow Hook and nearby Fort Hamilton. Yellow Hook was named for the yellow clay that leeched out of the ground, in all of the area farms, but in 1853, a yellow fever epidemic caused the town fathers to look for another name. Bay Ridge was chosen, named for the terminal moraine that overlooks the bay. It was on this moraine that our story takes form. (more…)
Congregation Beth Elohim Sanctuary Vies for PIP Grant
Since the announcement of the Partners in Preservation Grant, which will go to the four NYC projects that receive the most votes, Park Slope’s Congregation Beth Elohim, a nominated project, is stepping up its game. CBE is asking for a grant for a comprehensive repair/restoration of the roof, parapets, dome, and stained glass in the main sanctuary. They’ve posted some pictures of the windows in the current state on Facebook. As part of CBE’s participation in the contest, there will be an open house this weekend. The architects Henry Grosman and Babak Bryan are creating an art installation in the sanctuary that will also be a musical instrument. There will also be about a dozen musical acts from all over Brooklyn, and students in the synagogue’s many children’s programs will be invited to play the installation as well. It’ll be this Sunday, May 6th, from 2-5 pm. Competition is getting fierce! The top two nominees so far are the Brooklyn Public Library and the Congregation Beth Elohim. Vote for your favorite project right here.
Vote to Preserve NYC Historic Places [Brownstoner]
Walkabout: Brooklyn’s St. George Hotel, part 7
Find a middle class native New Yorker, especially a Brooklynite, over the age of sixty, and you’ll probably find that they’d been to the St. George at least once. They could have been an adult, or a child with their parents. Perhaps it was a special night in one of the restaurants, or ballrooms, or more than likely, it was a trip to the swimming pool. The famous St. George salt water pool was a draw for many in the city, both young and old, as well as for the famous who still flocked to the hotel in the late 1940s and 50s.
The St. George was still THE place to stay in Brooklyn, during the post-war years, and the list of the famous is pretty impressive. Frank Sinatra and his entourage stayed here, as did the following actors and entertainers: Katherine Hepburn, Spencer Tracy, who was a regular, Shelly Winters, Angela Lansbury, Duke Ellington and his orchestra, Tommy Dorsey and his orchestra, and authors Thomas Wolfe and Norman Mailer. Lena Horne, Veronica Lake, Cary Grant and Norma Shearer all had photographs taken at the pool arcade. So too did aquatic actors Johnny Weissmuller, Buster Crabbe and Esther Williams. Leonard Bernstein recorded Tchaikovsky’s Romeo & Juliet fantasy overture with the New York Philharmonic, for Columbia Records, here in the hotel on January 28, 1957. Also that year, Burt Lancaster starred in the movie version of “Sweet Smell of Success”, and one of the scenes took place at the Egyptian Roof Club, in the St. George Tower. (more…)
Closing Bell: Vote to Preserve NYC Historic Places
Today, Partners in Preservation, a community-based program provding preservation grants for local historic places, announced 40 historic NYC places in the running to have their grant requests fulfilled. American Express and the National Trust for Historic Preservation fund the program, which awards grants to landmarks in different cities every year. $3 million of funding will go towards the four project that receive the most votes from the public. Then a special advisory committee will review the public’s votes along with each site’s monetary needs to determine how the rest of the $3 million will be awarded. Now all you have to do is vote! The options in Brooklyn include the Brooklyn Public Library, the Tug Pegasus & Waterfront Museum Barge, Coney Island B&B Carousell (pictured), and the Brown Memorial Baptist Church. Check out the website for the list of all the worthy restoration projects. Voting lasts until May 21st. The popular vote winners will be announced on May 22 and the final list of grant recipients will be announced shortly after.
Walkabout: Brooklyn’s Hotel St. George, part 6
(Tower Night Club at the Hotel St. George. Photo: St. George Tower Yahoo group)
The Bing & Bing years for the Hotel St. George coincided with some of the best and worst years of the 20th century. The large Manhattan-based real estate development company bought the hotel in 1922, taking over from the Tumbridge family, the original owners of the hotel. Captain William Tumbridge had created a luxury hotel that attracted some of the crème de la crème of Brooklyn and visiting society, and catered to a wealthy clientele that wanted the convenience of a luxury apartment close to Manhattan. The hotel also advertised itself as a “family hotel”, where families could stay a few days, or board for months, or a season, if necessary. By the time the Bing brothers came along, the image of the hotel was slowly changing. They would preside over the hotel’s most storied years, when it became the quintessential middle class retreat; home to vacationing out of towners, conventioneers, wedding guests, and an occasional celebrity. It was also a destination in of itself, with ballrooms, restaurants, nightclubs, bars, and lounges, and oh yeah, that world famous salt water swimming pool.
In order to accommodate the masses, the Bing’s needed more room. The 1924 Emery Roth addition over the subway stop at Clark Street was a masterful engineering feat. It was imperative that the construction of this new 12 story Renaissance Revival building not interfere with the elevators leading to the subway, or the subway tunnels beneath. Roth solved the problem by running his elevators, stairways and mechanics in the adjoining laundry building, running along Henry Street. The added 370 rooms were but the first step, as Roth was now working on the centerpiece of the entire complex, the massive 32 story St. George Tower. This would add another 1,200 rooms to the hotel, making it, at 2,632 rooms, the largest hotel in New York City. (more…)
Goodbye, 804 Jefferson Avenue, and Goodnight
Via a reader we have the photo above, which shows that the historic mansion at 804 Jefferson Avenue in Bedford-Stuyvesant is no longer in existence. The building, which was more or less a textbook case of demolition by neglect, caught on fire last weekend, and both it and a neighboring building are now demolished. On the jump, a photo Montrose took of the building a year-and-a-half ago, when it was already in a sorry state.
Historic, Fire-Ravaged Bed-Stuy Mansion Probably a Goner [Brownstoner]
Fire at Historic Bed-Stuy House [Brownstoner] GMAP
Walkabout: The House at 804 Jefferson Ave. [Brownstoner] (more…)
Walkabout: Brooklyn’s Hotel St. George, part 5
(Photo: St. George Tower addition: 111Hicksstreet.com)
Welcome back to the St. George. The old hotel still has many stories to tell. In 1922, the Tumbridge family, the sons of Captain William Tumbridge, the original owner and founder, sold the famous hotel to the real estate development firm of Bing & Bing. The Tumbridge years were officially over. William Tumbridge had presided over his hotel’s beginnings, in 1886, from one building, to a sprawling group of buildings that took up most of the block bordered by Henry, Clark, Hicks and Pineapple Streets, in Brooklyn Heights. During those thirty-six years, much had happened in the hotel, good and bad; there were weddings, business meetings, summer stays, and secret trysts. Guests had stayed for years, and others were tossed out personally by Captain Tumbridge for non-payment. There were fistfights, accidental deaths, and at least two suicides. There were walkouts, strikes, and anti-suffragette meetings. You name it, the St. George had seen it, and much more was to come.
Brothers Leo and Alexander Bing were among the biggest and best real estate developers in New York during the first half of the 20th century. They were responsible for many of the finest pre-war apartment buildings being built in Manhattan for the luxury market, mostly on the Upper East Side, but also the Upper West Side, and in Greenwich Village. They paid three million dollars for the hotel. William Tumbridge had championed Brooklyn’s own elite architect, Montrose Morris, to design his main additions to the hotel, but the Bing Brothers had their own golden boy, architect Emery Roth. He designed many of the company’s best Park Avenue buildings, and the Bings chose him to design more wings for the hotel. The first one, completed in 1923, rose on the corner of Henry and Clark Street, giving the hotel the entire street front of that block of Henry and Clark. (more…)
Walkabout: You’d have to be a saint…Part 2
(St. Peter Claver Church and Fr. Bernard Quinn, from frquinn.org)
African American Catholics have not had an easy time of it in the Church. Historically speaking, black folks have been Catholics since Catholics have been in the Americas, although certainly not sitting as equals in the pews. A few black Catholics have had a great deal of influence in the American Church, in spite of racism and intolerance, and in the last installment we met Pierre and Juliet Toussaint of New York, and, a century later, the Healy brothers, originally from Georgia. The 19th century ended with little progress being made in the Church to integrate black Catholics into the growing fold of American Catholicism.
In 1916, a group of African American Catholics came together as the Committee for the Advancement of Colored Catholics. They were seeking equal care by Catholic organizations such as the Knights of Columbus, for black veterans returning from World War I. The group was interested in opening a dialogue with American bishops, who administered Church policy, to urge them to denounce discrimination, and to meet with black Catholics. They stated in their appeal: “at present we are neither a part of the colored world (Protestant), nor are we generally treated as full-fledged Catholics.” It would take the actions of a few extraordinary people to bring the Church around. One of these people was here in Brooklyn, and this Walkabout is his story. He was Monsignor Bernard J. Quinn. (more…)

May 21, 2012 | 02:16 PM