Our tech team has made some pretty big updates to combat spam in the Forum.
*One is a plugin that should filter out most of the attempts by spammers to register in the first place.
*Two, Forum users now have the ability to mark spam when they see it. If enough users mark a post as spam, it will automatically disappear.
Very sorry for all the spam lately. We hope this puts a lid on it.
Hi. New to forum. I want to create a sound surface to add sandstone to the front of my home on the planter boxes. I was think of solidly bolting down hardibacker concrete panels as a surface to put my scratch coat on. The other work was done by a pro and he is too busy to bid the rest so I want to do it myself. The wood is old a rotting on the top but it is solid. I would drill the concrete board and bolt it through the wood to the backside. The rock is just there now to visualize the idea.
We’ve ordered cement tile for our kitchen backsplash.
Does anyone have any recommendations for an installer?
We want someone who has experience with this.
No rush jobs. Need it done right the first time.
Antoinette in Bed Stuy
So we have a small area at our front door, 7′ x 3, that was already stripped to its original subfloor before we bought the apartment. We thought encaustic cement tile would be beautiful there, but once we bought it and had it shipped (and anyone who has ever looked into this tile knows how expensive shipping is) I immediately realized our problem: we have approximately 1″ depth to work with (before the door won’t open, and we are not replacing the door for many reasons) and our tile is 3/4″ thick.
I know it’s not a great idea to use a flexible thinset or Ditra directly over the subfloor (without ply or cement backer) but could we do it? I mean, they didn’t have ply when they originally installed encaustic tile in these old brownstone entryways… right? I do know this means we might see some cracking but if we use small grout joints between the tiles and leave a little expansion space around the edges?
The other option is to cut our losses: sell the tile and install more hardwood or just put down a 1/2″ ply and a 1/4-1/2″ all-weather carpet.
I’m a silent reader of this forum before but I find this place interesting so I decided to join. Hope to have more conversation and sharing here. Cheers everyone.
There are two tiles available as you all know. I want it to be stylish and durable. Nowadays everybody’s got marble and granite tiles. I was searching for something unique stone and choice. Is Onyx tile good as a countertop? will be last long?
We just moved into our ditmas home and have a lovely entry with seriously filthy tile, saddles and missing tiles. I would love to do a deep clean of the tiles and saddles and looking for comments on how to do so (I am assuming the tile is ceramic and the saddles some sort of stone). Also looking for a source to fill in the missing tiles at the edges. Thanks!
Replacing bathroom floor tile with 1″ hex and have choice between polished and honed. Which is better choice for floor? Like the look of polished but wonder if it will be slippery. Any suggestions?
Anyone have recommendations for someone who can do built-in bookshelves? We’re looking to install shelving on either side of our fireplace. We’re thinking storage on bottom with doors and open shelving on top. Interested in your recommendations, photos, and any ball park estimates you can provide. This would be our first time doing something like this so I’m unsure how much I should be saving for this project. Thanks in advance!
Can anyone recommend an approved clear-coat product, or a company that sprays exposed wooden beams to improve the “burn time” of the beams?
The DOB needs a one hour burn time for ceilings when the ceilings separate legal apartments.
We would like to keep the wood beams within our LEGAL basement rental EXPOSED, and have been told there are spray-on INTUMESCENT paints that have city-approved MEA numbers which will do the trick.
Has anyone gone this route with exposed wood beams?
This is a small job (just a few hours of work): I need a tile person to take up about 25 sq ft. of glazed Italian tile from my bathroom floor (damaging as few as possible) and then replace them (I have a limited supply of spare tiles, in case a few are damaged) and regrout the area once a plumber finishes some work in that area. Any suggestions from Brownstoner readers would be appreciated. Contractors seeking to do this job discouraged from answering…I’d like to find out about you from a satisfied customer.
My neighbor has nice tiles on her outdoor balcony (pictured). She does not recall where she got it or what it’s called. I’m looking for some recommendations on something similar —> a nice outdoor tile that is non-porous as we have a BBQ (grease stains) and plants out there. Any ideas?
Also, could you recommend someone who would be able to do the work?
I have some 12×24 wall tiles we are using in our bathroom. I’ve been told we cant use these tiles on the ceiling of our shower area as they are too heavy but i’ve seen mosaic tiles being used elsewhere.
I’m wondering if it is possible to make a mosaic out of the tiles we have? eg cut them smaller and then add a mesh backing?
The entrway floor to my brownstone coop in Prospect Heights has mosaic tiling from the late 1800s that needs to be restored. It needs to be cleaned, loose tiles need to be secured, and broken tiles need to be replaced. Does anyone know someone who specializes in restoring brownstone mosaics? Thanks for your help!
The tiles in my vestibule are intact but extremely dirty, with a hundred years’ worth of ground in dirt. I have tried various cleaning solutions and brushes to clean them but have had little success. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have a subway-tile style bathroom and I need to have grout replaced in most areas.