Park Slope vs. Upper West Side
I have been reluctant to post this question, but here it goes. My partner of 8 years and I currently live in the West 60s in Manhattan. I have had a thing for Park Slope brownstones since I first visited the area as a teenager in the '80s, and over the last year or so we have increasingly considered moving into one.
The pros of our current situation are that we have owned our apartment for about 7 years and generally like it a lot. It's a fully renovated pre-war on a high floor with unobstructed views of Central Park. We can both walk to our jobs in midtown and have many nearby amenities (restaurants, Fairway, Whole Foods, movie theaters, etc.). The cons are that our apartment is only a one-bedroom (a guest bedroom and dining room would be great), it's costly (maintenance fees, etc. of $2k/month), we'll never be able to afford a two-bedroom version of our apartment (five-room, park-view condos are double the price of the brownstones we've looked at; co-ops are not as bad, but the board requirements are prohibitive) and our neighborhood is becoming less and less of a neighborhood (new high-rises and big box stores all over the place -- we mainly live here because of the convenience factor and our view).
The pros of Park Slope are that it has a real neighborhood feel, it's downright beautiful and the people seem great. Also, we can probably afford a pretty decent brownstone. The cons are the commute to work (30-40 minutes on the subway, based on our test runs), losing the conveniences of a full-service building (doorman to accept deliveries, etc.) and, well, it's just the two of us and we don't have kids to fill up a house, so there's the guilt factor -- a whole house for just two people seems decadent. However, I don't think we would move to Park Slope to live in an apartment -- the idea of owning a brownstone is really the draw.
We've thought about more "neighborhoody" areas of Manhattan that we like, such as the Village and West Village, but the houses there will forever be out of our price range, we don't want to live in a loft or a modern glass building, and the pre-war, non-loft apartment stock downtown isn't that great (mostly one-bedrooms and so-so combinations). Here's one more fact for the mix -- we have a small weekend house about two hours out of the city, we spend at least half of our weekends there and we intend to keep it. So, should we give Park Slope a try, or should we just stay put? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Truly sorry if all this just sounds annoying.
36 Comments
By Ysabelle on January 19, 2010 2:11 PM
By DrewCStuart on January 19, 2010 2:18 PM
Hey Lower UWSider -
This decision seems pretty easy to me, if I were you, I would move to the Bronx. You get to be a part of a terrific community, there are great amenities (A Fairway!, transportation, and you can still tell people you live in Manhattan ;-)
My business partner is in a similar situation, he longed for the Brooklyn brownstone lifestyle, but his partner works at Columbia and our firm is on 29th. They also commute every weekend to Columbia County - by moving to 110th st they saved at least 30 to 45 minutes on the commute.
They are now looking for a place in the Bronx and it seems feasible cost-wise for them, so it certainly would be obtainable for you. Your money can go a long way there and there is plenty great potential renovations. Why not consider a 3rd floor rental to offset costs then you won't have so much guilt. There are plenty of young professionals looking for nice housing in the area (that isn't bland high rises).
Good luck, let us know how it goes!
Drew
By bkrules on January 19, 2010 2:26 PM
Really hard call.
I'd focus on the loss of the services in the building and the increased commute time. You have to really love Park Slope for these things to be OK.
Have you ever lived in a house? Because when you're shoveling the walk or sorting trash on a freezing night, you will wonder why you ever gave up your apartment. Also, when you find out you have to schlep downstairs to read the electric meter because you're at work when the ConEd guy comes by...there's a lot of little things like this which add up to major inconveniences. I think they're worth it because I love the neighborhood, but if I just wanted a guest room....nope, wouldn't be worth it.
Also, where are your friends located? If you have a lot of friends on the UWS, I'm telling you, you won't visit them anymore. It's a nightmare, especially on the weekend.
In the end, you have to make this judgment with your heart--they both have tradeoffs. In a perfect world, you could live in park slope for a year and then decide. Maybe you can do that? Sublet your place and rent a brownstone? I know that's crazy...but why now try?
By modsquad on January 19, 2010 2:39 PM
I make the weekend trip to PA and living in Brooklyn adds an extra half hour to the trip easily. That's from when I used to live in Union Square. I suspect it would be even more from the Upper West Side.
By northsloperenter on January 19, 2010 2:47 PM
Definitely a tough call.
I'd think long and hard before giving up your view of central park.
Don't underestimate the nuisance of the longer commute. That's time eaten away from you every single day, and if you are riding the 2/3/4/5 trains during rush hour, you are going to stand more often than not.
And not being able to hail a cab is a real nuisance that took some getting use to for me.
Subletting your place and renting a brownstone isn't bad advice. I rent one half of a 2 family, and we do have to take out the trash and shovel snow and deal with the ConEd meter readers. Not to mention cutting grass and raking leaves in the backyard.
Different world.
By daveinbedstuy on January 19, 2010 2:48 PM
"A whole house just for two people seems decadent."
Get over that right now!!! LOL You want a house to have a lot of room and that's what you are buying. You will also save money on real estate taxes.
I gave up the commute, which was hard but you get used to it. I also gave up a lot of nice restaurants to walk to. But they're not that car away from me. You won't have that problem in PS.
I leave almost evry weekend for PA. I don't drive, i take the train. So the car issue is a moot one for me.
Yes, you'll have to shovel and read your meters and occasionally fix a toilet or a lock or get someone to do it if you have a rental unit.
Try to find a place with the rental unit on the garden level. You don't want to have to be prisoner of your own floors locked behind doors because the common stairway leading to the top floor is used by a tenant. You really don't want that.
I've lived in houses in Chicago most of my adult life and after spending 13 years in a condo on the UES, I had enough. Besides, I'm handy and enjoy the projects.
By northsloperenter on January 19, 2010 2:52 PM
"Try to find a place with the rental unit on the garden level."
But don't you give up exclusive yard access when you do that?
By gkw on January 19, 2010 2:57 PM
I would not come to Park Slope - you will add so much time to your journey to your weekend home and that alone seems reason enough to stay put. another thing is that prospect park really does not compare to central park... commute to work is not so bad since it gives you time to read, and expense of taking taxis home late at night is offset by the fact that you'll never take taxis to get around brooklyn.
By LowerUWSider on January 19, 2010 2:57 PM
Thanks for the responses.
Ysabelle, I think (or hope) the whole hipster/stroller mafia thing is greatly exaggerated (I've met lots of Park Slopers who fall between those extremes), but you do touch on a concern of ours, namely, does most of the social activity in Park Slope revolve around doing stuff with kids? We like kids, but don't have any, so we're a little worried about our ability to make friends in the area if the socializing revolves around play-dates.
Drew, the Bronx has some great areas and, I may be wrong, but to me the neighborhoods and houses in the Bronx don't seem to compare to brownstone Brooklyn from an aesthetic perspective, which, for better or worse, matters to us. Also, the commute from the Bronx to midtown may be OK, but it's a long trip to downtown, which is where we prefer to go for dinner on weeknights and to hang out on weekends when we're in town.
I think that sort of addresses your point, bkrules. We have some friends on the UWS, but they're really all over the place, including the UES, SoHo, Financial District, Chelsea, etc. The subway ride from Park Slope to Union Square is only about 15 minutes -- about the same as the ride from the UWS. As for the house stuff . . . I can definitely relate. Our weekend place can certainly be a pain sometimes. The local electric company was installing new meters and hired a subcontractor that didn't work weekends. They suggested that we leave the house unlocked for a week, which was a nonstarter. One of us ended up taking a day off from work. Maybe renting for a while is the way to go.
By daveinbedstuy on January 19, 2010 2:58 PM
NSR...you can not allow the tenant to use the yard. Or, as in my case, I built a parlour floor deck and I pretty much use that exclusively. I really didn't want to be going up and down the inside stairs to get to the yard anyway. There's a cement pad below the deck that the tenants can use but from the deck stairs & beyond it's all planted so I just look out upon the garden from the deck.
Here's the pics....
http://www.brownstoner.com/brownstoner/archives/2008/12/got_a_garden_sp.php#more
Believe me, losing your common stairway space to a tenant above you seems really bad.
By LowerUWSider on January 19, 2010 3:11 PM
All great advice. Your posts are by far outpacing my responses!
As for the garden rental, I agree with Dave. We want the staircase in our unit to be fully open floor to floor, so I think we would avoid having a tenant above us.
By the way, does anyone have any thoughts on the 17-foot limestones on 4th bewteen PPW and 8th? One was on the market for a short time recently. We took a look at it and, although I know many people despise anything narrower than 19 feet, the scale of that house seemed right for our purposes. Those houses are really just 3 floors (the English basement is too far below grade to be anything more than a cellar), and the houses were originally built with ground floor kitchen extensions out back, which solves that whole kitchen-in-the-basement dilemma.
As you can see, despite what may be the right answer with respect to our potential move (i.e., staying put), I can't let it go.
By the_why on January 19, 2010 3:19 PM
LowerUWSider:
Consider other neighborhoods such as BoCoCa (sorry, Cobble!) and Fort Greene which may reduce the commute. You won't have panoramic CP views but we have lovely views of trees and rowhouses here.
I moved here from the Village where almost everything I needed was within a couple of blocks and open 24 hours. Brooklyn doesn't have that level of services but it's easy to adapt and worth it for the delightful neighborhoods. One thing I've found that makes Brooklyn more convenient is that there are lots of "handymen", electricians, plumbers, etc. that are less expensive and more available than in Manhattan.
You touched on the biggest negative of the area: too many kids with parents who have a tremendous sense of entitlement!
As for social activities, Brownstoner gatherings can't be beat!
Best of luck with you decision.
By bowl of dicks on January 19, 2010 4:10 PM
I highly recommend spending some time in park slope after work and especially on the weekends - in the restaraunts, bars, sidewalks etc. so that you can judge for yourself of the "entitled parents with kids" vibe. It is definately there, but everyone reacts to it differently.
Also, is your weekend house 2 hrs to the north? I used to commute upto Hudson every weekend from bklyn and it can easily add an hour to commute time. Both up the WSH and the BQE.
I agree with the why, look at cobble hill area too.
By denton on January 19, 2010 4:26 PM
As someone who has spent most of his life living in both nabes, first the UWS, then various nabes in Brooklyn, you're asking about a trade-off that most Manhattanites have to deal with sooner or later. That is, the amenities and conveniences of Manhattan vs. the space of Brooklyn. Whole lotta people sell that cramped 1BR to buy that 3br or whole house. Neither is perfect.
When I get to be a certain age, I plan to sell my house, move back to Manhattan, and buy an apt exactly like the one you have. In fact, if I was seventy, I'd trade you right now :-)
I disagree with the comments about CP vs. PP. CP is packed like a zoo in the summer compared to PP, and in fact Olmstead is said to have preferred PP over CP. Of course you will be giving up Riverside Park as well, and I don't think the Gowanus Canal can equal that.
If you have a car you will find it much easier (but not easy) to keep in on the street in PS.
By gemini10 on January 19, 2010 4:26 PM
why not try prospect heights? It's close to Prospect Park, only 5 min walk to Park Slope and pretty much has the same brownstone housing stock you are looking for and a great express commute with the B/Q/2/3 trains....
By bessie2 on January 19, 2010 4:51 PM
I lived for a couple of years in the UWS but moved back to Park Slope. I've found that I like Park Slope a lot better, mostly for its smaller scale, more and better little restaurants, better independent shopping, and way less crowded trains (there's also that cool indigo color the evening sky gets at season changes). My commute is actually better now, but I work downtown, not midtown. I do miss Riverside Park and being able to see a river.
Now that I live in the Northish instead of Center Slope I'm not too troubled by strollers. I used to live on 8th Ave. and Montgomery and the stretch between Garfield and Carrol on 7th was very difficult to navigate on all weekends and most evenings due to stroller traffic.
By Petebklyn on January 19, 2010 5:38 PM
if it weren't for the weekend house I'd say go for ParkSlope brownstoner. As someone with brooklyn house (with 2 rentals) and upstate wkend house, it becomes too much responsibility.
By squaredrive on January 19, 2010 5:40 PM
I would spend some time in park slope, i mean really spend some time there. Try some restaurants, bars, and really get a feel for the vibe at different times of the day. Also cross flatbush and check out vanderbilt and walk up to washington in prospect heights. Certainly a lot fewer strollers and a different vibe. I think it'll hit you one way or the other if you really put in some time getting to know the place.
To help with the commute, i would focus your house search in the north slope or the first block or 2 of prospect heights, close to the Q train. It really is pretty quick to canal and union square.
And I also agree that prospect park, relative to use, is better...
By LowerUWSider on January 19, 2010 6:11 PM
Thanks again for all the sound advice.
As for other neighborhoods in Brooklyn, we have considered Prospect Heights, Cobble Hill, Carroll Gardens and Boerum Hill. The housing in Prospect Heights is similar to that of Park Slope, and we actually focused on Prospect Heights first because of the better value proposition. However, as sad as I am to admit it, I like the slightly more scrubbed streets of Park Slope. I think I'm just getting old -- wouldn't have cared in the least 10 years ago. As for the latter three neighborhoods, although they are beautiful, the houses are of a different style and an earlier era, and we tend to prefer the late-19th and early 20th century houses.
As for the commute to our weekend house, we've actually driven from that house to Park Slope to check out open houses on Sunday afternoons, and it's not significantly longer than the commute to the UWS.
Finally, on the entitled parent front, we've spent about a dozen Saturdays or Sundays in Park Slope over the last year. It seems like the stroller epidemic is a lot less pronounced on 5th than on 7th, and we've gravitated to 5th for meals. It's a hike from the park blocks, but it's not much worse than our current situation. We tend to go either 10 or 15 blocks up to the high 70s and 80s or down to the 50s when we go to restaurants in our area. Most of the places near us cater to the pre-performance Lincoln Center crowd, so we're used to taking a short hike for restaurants with good food and character (and reasonable prices).
I truly appreciate the feedback.
By Bob Marvin on January 19, 2010 6:13 PM
"prospect park really does not compare to central park" ??? That's not what Olmstead and Vaux thought. Prospect Park was their chance to correct the mistakes they made in their first park commission.
By Johnny on January 19, 2010 6:36 PM
OP,
I have a whole house for one person. I live with the guilt ;-) OK, just top two floors. Love the Slope. Stroller mafia no more annoying than anywhere else. Park is beautiful, and quieter than Central Park so it's therefore better I say!!!!
Buying a house I think is a much more cost beneficial way to own than condo-like. Never had a doorman so don't miss that. Ask yourself how much you pay for that person to pick up your packages? Over 10 years?
Depends on lifestyle. Good places to go and tons of space for the loot. The commute really doesn't bother me but would some. I read a lot so stick my head in book/paper and I'm in midtown. Depends on what you want but I'm very happy.
By bowl of dicks on January 19, 2010 7:15 PM
"As for the commute to our weekend house, we've actually driven from that house to Park Slope to check out open houses on Sunday afternoons, and it's not significantly longer than the commute to the UWS."
Sorry to be nit-picky, but travelling in and out of the city on a sunday morning is about the most optimal, least busy time possible. It is completely unrealistic to compare sunday to peak weekend mass exodus/return. Unless you are leaving thursday and returning sunday mornings from your country house, add an extra hour from park slope.
By LowerUWSider on January 19, 2010 7:32 PM
Just to clarify, the return trips to the city were made in the early afternoon, and the weekend house is on Long Island, so the trip to Park Slope is a few miles shorter and doesn't involve crossing a river. Getting from the LIE to Park Slope, however, can sometimes take longer than getting through the Midtown Tunnel and up to the UWS.
By elizabethJane on January 19, 2010 7:48 PM
Park Slope is just the best. I live farther south in Brooklyn but I have several friends in slope, both North and South, and I'm there at least once or twice a month. Prospect Park is incredible, it's not choked with tourists like Central Park is, and the restaurants of 5th Avenue are some of the best reviewed in the entire city. Sure, if you leave rush hour on a Friday you will add an hour to your commute, but if you leave earlier or later, or on Saturday morning, you'll be fine. And depending on the micro-section, there are indeed plenty 24-hour places in Park Slope. I'm thinking around the 9th Street/7th Avenue station for sure. It compares so favorably to the UWS! Agree with you, the well-scrubbed streets of Park Slope have a more appealing ambiance than some of the other brownstone neighborhoods, beautiful as some of their buildings may be . . . I strongly recommend you rent in Park Slope for a year. It's hard not to love it once you experience it.
By elizabethJane on January 19, 2010 7:50 PM
With your weekend house on LI, you could perhaps take the Belt Parkway which I find to be faster than the LIE. It's easy to get to the Belt via 4th Ave from Park Slope, if the Gowanus is heavy.
By dm1204 on January 19, 2010 8:14 PM
Not sure why people jump on the entitled parent thing. I've lived in the slope for 15 years, well before I had children and well before most people wanted to live here. Granted it doesn't make me a native, but gives me some perspective. So, I can say the social aspect of the slope does not entirely revolve around children. Even now that I have them it doesn't. I think you make your own circles, you're not forced into them. The park is full of many types of people, kids, hipsters, but also cricketers, dog owners, outdoorsy types, same as central park. Strangely comical that people focus on stereotypes, presuming that they are not an annoyance to others. Despite having seen a recent rash of egregious bike riding in the neighborhood, it's not how I define the place. That said, there are plenty of people here without children, so depending on your age, there are lots of opportunities for socializing - book readings, museum, concerts in the park, good restaurants, shops, wine bars, live music, etc. To me, it feels like a real neighborhood - I know shop and restaurant owners of the places I frequent, see friends and neighbors on the street, etc.
As for brownstone living, would agree that salting sidewalks and carting trash cans is a hassle, but I think the charm and vibe of the place makes up for it. And as for getting to Long Island, I head out Eastern Parkway to the Jackie Robinson, hooks up with the LIE at about exit 22, voila, takes about 20-25 minutes.
So, if you're drawn, I would recommend it, we've been very happy here through many stages of our lives. Renting probably a good call, just to be sure. The commute may get to you, or you may see it as a means to a great end, like we do.
By LowerUWSider on January 19, 2010 8:57 PM
Thanks, dm1204. I'm surprised at how often, when I mention the possibility of moving to Park Slope, people (mainly Manhattanites, including those with children) try to dissuade me by jumping on the entitled parent bandwagon. Reasonable people who otherwise loathe stereotypes have no issue with that one. Granted, I have never lived in Park Slope, so my perspective isn't all that well informed, but I've been going there on and off for more than two decades, and with much greater frequency in the past year. Sure the sidewalks on 7th are clogged with strollers, but they'd be as clogged on Broadway if the sidewalks were as narrow as they are on 7th. It always seemed to me that Park Slope attracts a variety of people. The demo may skew one way or another over the years, but overall it seems pretty balanced.
Also, thanks both to you and elizabetJane for the driving tips. I'll have to try some of those alternatives. I actually grew up at the Queens end of the Jackie Robinson and considered that route, but for some reason I thought the drive down Eastern Parkway might take too long. 20-25 minutes sounds great.
By dm1204 on January 19, 2010 9:09 PM
One other thing you might consider is living in a brownstone condo, top floor (or two) and having a roof deck rather than a garden. We're in that exact set-up in a 3b/2b and the roof deck is glorious. There's something about being above everything that I find different to a garden, so great to have some uninterrupted expanse, relieves a bit of the claustrophobia of city living. Heck, buy our place, we need more space!
By dm1204 on January 19, 2010 9:12 PM
P.S. We're on 8th just below Grand Army so Eastern Parkway is right there, that's what I'm basing my time estimates on. And, when I'm going it's usually early a.m. so next to no traffic.
By LowerUWSider on January 19, 2010 9:28 PM
dm1204, right now we're fixated on a house, but we'll let you know if we change our minds! As for the drive out of the city, to avoid traffic we normally leave on a Friday night after dinner (around 10 or 10:30 p.m.), and even during the peak summer months traffic tends to be fairly light at that time. I assume the same would be true on Eastern Parkway. The return trip is the tough one -- on Sunday, leaving any time between noon and 9:00 p.m. is bad. We have low expectations, so I'm sure we'll find a suitable route.
By dm1204 on January 19, 2010 9:37 PM
Well, good luck and post back so we know what you decided!
By LowerUWSider on January 19, 2010 9:42 PM
One last thing on the weekend commute -- when we're not driving we often take the LIRR from Penn Station after work. We could continue doing that. On the way back, we could take the LIRR to Atlantic Terminal. According to the LIRR schedule, the trains to Atlantic run with the same frequency as trains to Penn and the trip takes about the same amount of time.
By manofelt on January 19, 2010 10:13 PM
You should buy today's (Jan. 19th) co-op of the day.
Ultimate PS townhouse living without the empty bedroom guilt.
Vastly superior subway access and commute time with the 2/3, B/Q.
LIRR is just a stop (or a modest walk) away.
Check and mate!
By broker on January 20, 2010 9:03 AM
My partner and I commute to the North Fork from Park Slope. The Jackie Robinson is definately the way to go and then we take the Northern Parkway and catch the LIE later in the trip. We've been doing this commute for 10 years and have tried all different routes and have found this one the best. Can't say enough about Park Slope, it is a great place to live.
By grand army on January 20, 2010 4:10 PM
Tricky decision. My partner and I live in a brownstone in Prospect Heights and love Brooklyn dearly. We rent one floor of our house and find being landlords no sweat at all -- and what a difference it makes to our monthly expenses! We have no guilt about the space we occupy especially since we constantly have friends and family visiting. I'm also THRILLED to never have to deal with a coop/condo board again. Did I miss in the thread the location of your weekend home? That would be my major concern because a) you'll miss the mellow Brooklyn weekends (one of the best reasons for living here) and b) if you are upstate, it will add an hour to your commute. Btw, Prospect Heights is still about 20% less expensive than the Slope yet often more convenient (subway access on 2/3 and Q/B; closer to BAM; closer to Brooklyn Museum and Botanical Gdns). The prime blocks are pretty much indistinguishable from the Slope.
By LowerUWSider on January 20, 2010 10:07 PM
broker and grand army -- thanks. It's interesting how the responses to my post originally seemed to caution against moving to Brooklyn and then started leaning the other way. Part of the reason may have been the incorrect assumption about the location of our weekend house, which I corrected a little too late in the process, so many posts focused on the additional commuting time to points north and west of the city. To answer your question, grand army, the weekend house is on Long Island, so the commute from Brooklyn is about the same as the commute from the UWS. We did consider Prospect Heights initially, focusing mostly on Park Place and Sterling. Great houses, but not many on the market. Although we're leaning toward PS now, we haven't ruled out PH.
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