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June 23, 2009
Door Expandsion from Water Leak
Now a new problem..... from the post below (toilet valve.) When the water seeped down from the 2nd to the 1st floor I believe that it traveled between the sheet-rock and the 2 x 4's and I noticed alittle water dripping from the top of the door casing. NOW I just noticed that the door won't close. Could the wood have expanded? Is there anyway to rectify the problem?
Comments
First thing is to wait for things to dry out. If there is a particular wet spot, use a fan to help dry it out.
Posted by: SenatorStreet at June 23, 2009 3:18 PM
What SenatorStreet said, except that I'd probably set up a heater in addition to fan. With current rain and humidity, let alone leak, lots of doors are swollen and they'll take longer to dry out. You'll want to dry the sheetrock wherever possible as quickly as you're able.
Posted by: vinca at June 23, 2009 4:01 PM
The two most neglected parts of any door are the top and the bottom. Most carpenters that trim doors do not bother to re-apply the seal that the cut removed.
When things dry out- try to apply paint or varnish to the top and bottom of the door. This will minimize seasonal movement of the wood.
Posted by: southslope at June 23, 2009 7:16 PM
Actually, you never want to paint or seal the top and bottom of a door. The wood needs to be able to breathe with changes in the weather, and your doors will last much longer and be in better condition if not sealed in like this. Additionally,you won't have problems with layers of paint making it difficult to open an close them.
I'd just let the doors dry out, bring in a dehumidifier if you've got it. The swelling will go down after a little drying out time.
Posted by: josereyes at June 23, 2009 11:01 PM
Note to self... never hire josereyes to install one of our doors. He has never read the instructions attached to the door from every door manufacturer in America.
Posted by: southslope at June 23, 2009 11:52 PM
Actually, where did you get that information josereyes? It is rather... counterintuitive. I mean, I have been doing this, well- since I could walk, and I've seen doors expand where they were not sealed. The top and especially the bottom are most susceptible to water absorption through osmosis or capillary action.
Actually, there is no such thing as a consumer finish that will completely eliminate moisture migration (breathing as you called it), it only slows it down.
Posted by: southslope at June 24, 2009 12:26 AM
I admit to dealing with old salvage doors that are made of single-cut wood, which I assumed was the case with this kind of absorption and swelling. Sealing the tops and bottoms of this type of door will lead to desiccation of the wood, and from there a higher likelihood of splintering and splitting, if you ever take it down or plane it.
Unsealed, doors may expand, but they will also contract again.
I concede it may not be the case with new/particle or composite-constructed doors, but I was not aware that these were so prone to swelling from a bit of toilet water...
And if you read instructions all your life, where's the fun of discovery?
Posted by: josereyes at June 24, 2009 9:42 AM
if it is a new hollow core or solid core door, chances are the swelling will remain even after it dries out(particle board is unforgiving when exposed to a lot of water..hire a carpenter or competent handyman to rehang the doors after planing or sanding the doors as is necessary
Posted by: eman1234 at June 24, 2009 8:19 PM
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