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May 24, 2009
ceiling soundproofing
Hi all,
It's a long story, but my plaster ceiling was torn out and replaced with sheetrock; some soundproofing boards were installed as well, but may not have been installed properly, and I have more noise coming from my upstairs neighbor than I'd like. I'm looking for recommendations on how to increase the soundproofing in the ceiling--I don't care about losing a few inches of ceiling height, just tired of being able to hear everything happening in my neighbor's apartment. I am just finishing 6 years as a graduate student, so hoping to keep the costs down. Thanks in advance!
Comments
No cheap way. You need to decouple a new ceiling from the old: x4s on edge and new sheetrock stuffed with insulation in the cavity might work.
I have also heard (but never seen installed) that you can install the grid for a hanging ceiling (don't know right term, the type you see in offices with removable panels) with a 4-6" gap, then screw sheetrock to the bottom of the metal bars (ie no panels).
In either case, be sure to use acoustic caulk to fill all gaps, not regular.
Posted by: cmu at May 24, 2009 7:41 PM
It's a larger project than you may think and it's not cheap. I've used Quietrock. It's a great product but it runs $85. a sheet. You could reframe and layer sheetrock with a material called Green Glue & acoustic caulk and stuff insulation between the studs. All these things will help but I doubt you will ever get anything sound proof but it will be much better than what you have now.
Posted by: Rick at May 25, 2009 6:20 AM
cmu might be referring to resilient channel and/or acoustic drop ceiling panels. Search "soundproof" in the forum archives. There are many previous threads.
Posted by: vinca at May 25, 2009 10:09 AM
Tough Issue, really. Footfall noise is always harder to eliminate than airborne noise. This explains what you're up against and some options. http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/solutions/neighbor_noise/neighbor_noise_ceilings
Posted by: Ted White at May 25, 2009 1:00 PM
vinca, thanks for the right terminology, "resilient channels". But I was saying that you install the channels, then *screw sheetrock to the bottom of the metal* rails...labor intensive because you'd have to drill for each sheetrock screw (and find the damn holes from the other side of the rock).
Acoustic caulk at the edges, and this 1) gives total isolation...the new sheetrock ceiling is connected only by the suspension wires (make sure they're doubled or tripled) and 2) has an air cavity of any size you want. I think it's cheaper and better than quietrock/green glue etc. Of course, I have no firsthand info.
Posted by: cmu at May 25, 2009 3:26 PM
The most effective cheapest soundproofing is padded carpet upstairs. Airborne noise like voices and non bass music will be reduced if you caulk and seal any cracks or holes,like radiator pipes, etc. and add a layer of 5/8 sheetrock. Thats the cheapest. All of the above methods will help. Read the link but don't expect miracles from Greenglue and Quietrock. I've used both and they work but the makers claims are exaggerated.
Posted by: edifice rex at May 25, 2009 7:09 PM
A few common myths surfacing here:
Green Glue and Quiet Rock both work as represented in the independant lab tests. Perhaps a salesperson is exaggerating. Flanking is generally the biggest reason for a compromize in performance.
Acoustical caulking a floor does almost nothing. The problem does not boil down to a hairline crack of some sort.
You do not pre-drill holes to attach drywall to either resilient channel or metal Drywall Furring Channel.
While footfall (impact noise) is reduced with carpet and pad, it will do very little for airborne noise, especially lower frequencies.
Adding a single sheet of drywall alone to an existing ceiling will do little. To increase 5-6 STC points you have to double the weight of the entire floor/ceiling assembly (flooring + joists+ ceiling drywall). So adding only 1 sheet to an existing ceiling might get you 1-2 STC points. A lot of work for the performance gain.
Posted by: Ted White at May 26, 2009 9:29 AM
A few common myths surfacing here:
Green Glue and Quiet Rock both work as represented in the independant lab tests. Perhaps a salesperson is exaggerating. Flanking is generally the biggest reason for a compromize in performance.
Acoustical caulking a floor does almost nothing. The problem does not boil down to a hairline crack of some sort.
You do not pre-drill holes to attach drywall to either resilient channel or metal Drywall Furring Channel.
While footfall (impact noise) is reduced with carpet and pad, it will do very little for airborne noise, especially lower frequencies.
Adding a single sheet of drywall alone to an existing ceiling will do little. To increase 5-6 STC points you have to double the weight of the entire floor/ceiling assembly (flooring + joists+ ceiling drywall). So adding only 1 sheet to an existing ceiling might get you 1-2 STC points. A lot of work for the performance gain.
Posted by: Ted White at May 26, 2009 9:29 AM
As you said earlier footfall is the hardest to deal with and the carpet will help, we agree.If you have openings in the ceiling closing them will give more than a little improvement for air borne noise and an extra layer off sheetrock helps to seal and consolidate a compromised ceiling. Greenglue and Quietrock lab tests do not necessarily correlate to real world conditions and many DIY will be disappointed not understanding the limitations of these products on structure borne noise which is almost impossible to eliminate in a low cost retro fit. 5/8" GWB is 30 cents a foot QR is $3 for their cheapest product,Greenglue is cheaper but more labor. I stand by my first recomendation for a cheap DIY improvement.
Posted by: edifice rex at May 26, 2009 11:38 AM
To clarify, carpet will help with footfall in the higher frequencies, but not airborne.
Quote:
"If you have openings in the ceiling closing them will give more than a little improvement for air borne noise and an extra layer off sheetrock helps to seal and consolidate a compromised ceiling."
This seems intuitive, but not the case. Sealing small gaps in the ceiling will technically inprove things, but results will likely not even be able to be measured.
I already described the problem with relying on additional drywall. The expected results from the addition of mass follows Mass Law. While there is a difference, this difference may very well fall below the threshold of hearing. You may not hear a difference.
Posted by: Ted White at May 26, 2009 12:03 PM
"This seems intuitive, but not the case. Sealing small gaps in the ceiling will technically inprove things, but results will likely not even be able to be measured."
This would be for a small crack on the ceiling (assuming some insulation up there).
I wanted to clarify this point. If the "crack" was a clear opening from downstairs to upstairs, you'll have a REAL problem. Like the gap around a pipe.
From that perspective, Ed Rex is on the money.
Posted by: Ted White at May 27, 2009 3:34 PM
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