Forum
« inspecting a possible building Help w Garden Irrigation System »
May 28, 2009
Best way to finish???
Another little item our GC didn't quite finished is the bannister. This was painted many times over, and after several rounds of stripping and sanding, we have some sections that look wonderfully smooth and ready for finish, and some that look like this. Question is, how to get the last little bits of paint off so we can put a finish on (we're thinking a tung oil finish). GC was reluctant to sand anymore because he thought it would cause damage it, and didn't think any more rounds of paint stripper would work. Any thoughts? Favorite products? Sanding techniques? Finish as is and live with the little paint marks?
Comments
dental picks
Posted by: denton at May 28, 2009 5:28 PM
I don't think he was afraid of damaging it, I think he was afraid of work.
I give it a scrub with coarse steel wool and lacquer thinner. It will get into all the crevices and neutralize any previous finishes that may interfere with your top coats.
And it looks like a little more 120 sanding is needed.
Posted by: southslope at May 28, 2009 6:15 PM
After the steel wool an lacquer thinner(be careful the fumes are very strong and very explosive), try a cabinet scraper.It gives a very crisp finish and no dust or noise.
Posted by: edifice rex at May 28, 2009 7:04 PM
I second dental picks. But first use liquid, paste-type paint remover to soften it up first. Try a green scrubber first while wet(like those used for pots and pans), not steel wool. Steel wool can discolor the wood.
Then sand lightly. 120 to start is good.
Posted by: renomandru at May 28, 2009 7:05 PM
Much thanks, guys. Southslope, your diagnosis is probably correct. He probably wanted to movde his guys on to the next task.
Posted by: slopefarm at May 28, 2009 8:00 PM
renomandru,
If you are referring to a scotchbrite hand pad (green, medium) THAT will really discolor your wood, the green dye comes out when mixed with lacquer thinner. In my shop we cant live without them, but use them only in between coats of finish. They do not help on raw wood(in fact it causes problems), it will close up the grain- making it un-receptive to the stain or finish and you will have a weak bond.
Steel wool only slightly accelerates the natural oxidation (due to the iron content which bonds with O2). But it is negligible since it would be sanded after scrubbing/washing anyway.
FWIW- if you are using a tung oil, you can sand finer- any other finish, stop at 150 or you will loose your mechanical bond which is the most important thing in finishing.
Posted by: southslope at May 28, 2009 8:56 PM
By just peeking at this (via your photo) it looks like your rail is either solid cherry or walnut non venerered. It was probably fabricated out of one or two joined pieces of solid wood. With this stated sanding will not harm it.
The chemical solvents will only do so much and it really is not good for the environment right? So back to the problem. Based on the clouding as visible in the photo the sanding that has taken place already was done most likely in a circular or short side to side motion, either way incorectly so!
Finish sanding should always be done in the direction of the wood grain. In this case in the direction of the rail length. Just follow the wood grain.
The idea of using a dental pick was perfect for removing the embedded paint but you will still neeed to sand it down considerabley for a smooth finish. Use a very coarse paper and finish wit a fine had drawn paper for the ultimate finish.
You are 90% however the last 10% will take a little elbow grease to make it perfect. It would be great to post a before and after photo when done.
BTW steel wool is ok the green scrubbers are not. Southslope' got it right!
Good luck!
Posted by: gregthearchitect at May 28, 2009 9:25 PM
By just peeking at this (via your photo) it looks like your rail is either solid cherry or walnut non venerered. It was probably fabricated out of one or two joined pieces of solid wood. With this stated sanding will not harm it.
The chemical solvents will only do so much and it really is not good for the environment right? So back to the problem. Based on the clouding as visible in the photo the sanding that has taken place already was done most likely in a circular or short side to side motion, either way incorectly so!
Finish sanding should always be done in the direction of the wood grain. In this case in the direction of the rail length. Just follow the wood grain.
The idea of using a dental pick was perfect for removing the embedded paint but you will still neeed to sand it down considerabley for a smooth finish. Use a very coarse paper and finish wit a fine had drawn paper for the ultimate finish.
You are 90% however the last 10% will take a little elbow grease to make it perfect. It would be great to post a before and after photo when done.
BTW steel wool is ok the green scrubbers are not. Southslope' got it right!
Good luck!
Posted by: gregthearchitect at May 28, 2009 9:25 PM
By just peeking at this (via your photo) it looks like your rail is either solid cherry or walnut non venerered. It was probably fabricated out of one or two joined pieces of solid wood. With this stated sanding will not harm it.
The chemical solvents will only do so much and it really is not good for the environment right? So back to the problem. Based on the clouding as visible in the photo the sanding that has taken place already was done most likely in a circular or short side to side motion, either way incorectly so!
Finish sanding should always be done in the direction of the wood grain. In this case in the direction of the rail length. Just follow the wood grain.
The idea of using a dental pick was perfect for removing the embedded paint but you will still neeed to sand it down considerabley for a smooth finish. Use a very coarse paper and finish wit a fine had drawn paper for the ultimate finish.
You are 90% however the last 10% will take a little elbow grease to make it perfect. It would be great to post a before and after photo when done.
BTW steel wool is ok the green scrubbers are not. Southslope' got it right!
Good luck!
Posted by: gregthearchitect at May 28, 2009 9:25 PM
All good advice. I had the same problem--I dabbed the remaining paint with gel stripper and then used an old soft toothbrush, which worked really well on stubborn spots.
Posted by: tinarina at May 29, 2009 10:38 AM
here's a trick you can try: coat the handrail with some shellac. After it's dried ( give it a day), go ahead and strip it with paint remover, and/or lacquer thinner. The shellac helps bind the paint flecks and they will pull out easier.
Also, try using metal bristle "toothbrushes" instead of steel wool.
Posted by: ParkSlopePS at May 29, 2009 1:58 PM
the=========================================== state can afford stupid things like putting up Guard Rails on Bond Rd (Hwy 307). The State can buy property up to give right of ways to bridges. However, when it comes to good clean recreational activities for families, it cannot afford them.This so smacks of the school systems threatening to close down the football program everytime they want to catch the attention of the masses.I love Ft Flagler with its miles of flat beach to walk on. And the high cliffs and views of the Olympic mts., Indian Island, Ft Warden, Mt Baker, Whidbey Island, and Port Townsend. The historic military buildings and the bunkers are also a nice attraction.
======================================
mike
=========================
Find Lawyer-Find Lawyer
Posted by: sameer9 at May 29, 2009 2:17 PM
no idea what that last post was about? ...but in terms of your banister:
Tung oil is not going to cut it. Tung oil is for 1970's art furniture or Asian antiques. This banister is going to need a lot more sanding and several coats of woodstain to darken and even-out the color of the wood. The original finish of this beautiful banister, and what you would do if you wanted to reproduce the original finish, is faux-grain. An artisan would basically paint wood grain on the entire banister and then shellac it. That was the way they achieved the flawless, smooth original finish. But if you don't want to go to that trouble, give it several coats of stain and then shellac. It will not have the artistic value of the original but it probably is more in keeping with the modern desire to be "natural".
Posted by: sam at May 29, 2009 8:05 PM
Sorry dude, but I am the worlds second strongest proponent of tung oil as a finish (the first being Mary at Sutherland-Welles Tung Oil Company). The handrail is walnut and would look and feel the best with a natural tung oil finish (shellac is to grippy, tung oil is silky). Tung oil is very serviceable, in that you can lightly scuff it and re-coat as often as you like. Have you been to Beer Table (14th and 7th ave)? Justin (the owner) wipes the walnut tables with tung oil once a month, it takes 20 minutes and they are always pristine. UV inhibitors can be added to polymerized tung oil for exterior millwork and even used on steel. TUNG OIL RULES!
Posted by: southslope at May 29, 2009 10:10 PM
Tung oil DOES rule. We used it on a stripped floor (a small room, so hand application wasn't too horrible on the knees)and plan on using it on bannisters, too.
Posted by: Brenda from Flatbush at June 1, 2009 9:00 AM
Post a comment
Please be patient while your comment is published. It may take a moment.