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May 1, 2008
Sheetrock over Plaster??
Yesterday my contractor pt up sheetrock over one of my plaster walls in my front parlor and in my entrance hall. I was very upset when I saw this as I had not imagined he would repair the walls this way. parlor wall was opened to install a split system A/C unit. He said the sheet rock was the best option because of the condensation risk. The hallway wall was partially rotted from water damage over many years from original radiator. He did not demo these walls just put the drywall over the existing damaged plaster. Was this the best solution? What would others recommend? He got very defensive when I asked him to walk me through the reasons why he chose that solution. I had anticipated a classic plaster repair job.
Comments
So many contractors here in Brooklyn are always pushing sheetrock. It's cheap, it's fast, it's easy and does not require them bringing in extra guys with that skill, and thus they make more money on the job if it's sheetrock.
Posted by: guest at May 1, 2008 2:15 PM
Make them redo it as plaster. They won't like it, but you will.
Posted by: guest at May 1, 2008 2:20 PM
Unfortunately you "had anticipated a classic plaster repair job." Unless you specified it and it was written into the proposal you're stuck. Unless he used blueboard you're not even going to get a decent skim coat over it.
Word to the wise: No matter how small the job spell out every detail.
Posted by: daveinbedstuy at May 1, 2008 2:25 PM
you can get decent results skimcoating (applying a very thin layer of thinned compound over the entire wall surface, to even the texture between the taped and un-taped areas) over standard sheetrock. Blueboard is used for veneer plastering, in which a thicker layer (up to an eighth of an inch) of finish plaster is applied.
In other words, skimcoating and veneer plastering are two different techniques, using different materials.
Posted by: guest at May 1, 2008 4:36 PM
If I understand correctly, it sounds like there was not much left of the plaster to repair. If that was the case in my own home, I would've taken it out completely before putting up drywall. Why add the extra weight to the house? In any case, it sounds like a lack of communication. Personally, I wouldn't make him change it, but I'd make everything else clear and keep a very close eye on him.
Posted by: rh at May 1, 2008 4:49 PM
I may be a little daft, but what is the aesthetic advantage to plaster over sheetrock?
Posted by: guest at May 1, 2008 4:56 PM
4:56 ... there is none if it's finished correctly.
Posted by: mahetia at May 1, 2008 5:27 PM
"Condensation" seems like a red herring. However, if the plaster is in lousy condition, and the lathe below is rotted away, sheetrock it a legitimate repair (actually, its a legitimate repair either way). Finishing it correctly also means dealing with changes to profiles (you are making the wall itself thicker by laminating sheetrock over it, which may mess with reveals, molding depths, etc.).
As noted elsewhere, if the contract says "repair wall", you've sort of left it up to the contractor how to do it. If it says "repair in kind", then he should be using plaster.
Posted by: WBer at May 1, 2008 5:41 PM
Ok, if per mahetia there is no aesthetic difference, if done well - then why would one choose the more expensive plaster option over sheetrock?
Posted by: guest at May 1, 2008 7:23 PM
My answer to your question, 7:23 (though I admit to a couple of instances of not following my own instincts - and regretting those decisions) is to pose another question to you. If you owned a Rolls Royce, would you repair a dent in it by filling it with bondo?
Posted by: johnife at May 1, 2008 7:53 PM
johnife, 7:23 here: I'm new to all of this and trying to understand whether there is any structural or aesthetic reason why one would choose plaster over sheetrock. In the case of a Rolls Royce and bondo, not being a car person, I assume that bondo probably doesn't last as long or in some way damages the structural integrity of the car. If that is the point you are making, are you then saying that sheetrock is in some tangible way, beyond not being true to traditional techniques, an inferior solution?
If so, what are the issues with sheetrock?
If not, I totally understand. If I had the fortune of owning a $40k hand-made watch, I wouldn't want it 'repaired' by installing a digital LCD to 'replace' a faulty gear mechanism.
Posted by: guest at May 1, 2008 8:07 PM
Don't know about you all, but I can tell the difference between sheetrock and plaster in the "feel" of the walls and the "echo" of sounds in the apartment. Plaster feels more "real" for some reason. It seems more sturdy.
Posted by: guest at May 1, 2008 9:01 PM
I am of the plaster is better group. I have a 5 story brownstone and have replaced and repaired plaster in many places on our parlor floor and in bedrooms, and used sheet rock in other areas where it was basically gutted -- and I'll tell you, there is nothing like plaster. I would not have admitted it 10 years ago, but I do now. There is a luminosity and solidness to plaster that even the best skim coating on sheetrock cannot replicate. But you have to find someone to do the plastering that really understands what they are doing, and in my experience that is not necessarily more expensive, although many people will tell you it is.
Posted by: guest at May 1, 2008 9:43 PM
Adding to 9:43's comment: One reason plaster feels so much more "solid" - its denser - more like stone.
In my book, one reason plaster is better - Plaster has great sound deadening qualities. A house with plaster walls carries less sound room to room, between party walls, or from the street. Sheetrock/drywall tends to feel (to me, anyway) hollow, thin and almost carries sound.
I currently use USG's Diamond Veneer Plaster over plaster weld for big jobs in my 1910 rowhouse. Incredible results once you get the hang of mixing the stuff and the trowel.
a question for fellow plasterers - where can I get plaster washers for securing loose plaster back to lathe before skimming?
Posted by: guest at May 1, 2008 11:40 PM
It sounds to me that your contractor should have told you his plan of action. I'm a contractor and I'm surprised that this wasn't explained to you in detail. Anyway, I don't think there is anything wrong with sheetrock over plaster however I like the look of plaster better. Plaster repair takes more time and skill to do it right and you will pay more for a high quality plaster job than any sheetrock job. Many contractors just want to get in and out of your house asap and sheetrock is faster and cheaper than skim coating. About plaster washers, they're great and many walls can be saved if you use them right, You can get them here in Brooklyn at Modern Way Lumber on Flatbush ave.
Posted by: Rick at May 2, 2008 6:57 AM
Order plaster washers online:
http://www.charlesstsupply.com/plaster_washers/
Posted by: guest at May 2, 2008 11:16 AM
I'm not surprised that your contractor didn't explain how he was going to fix the problem. He's just thinking about how to get it done quickly, inexpensively and make it look good enough that in 6 months you won't call him complaining.
I had water damaged ceilings in one of our bedrooms (we live in a 1840's brownstone). The contractor was going to simply plaster the cracks and re-paint. In this case, we WANTED sheet-rock, to cover the entire ceiling. Sure it meant lowering the ceiling by 1/4" at most, but when the building settles another 1/2" this year, the plastered cracks, won't start showing up. Maybe your guy took the cheap route but perhaps, it will work out in the end? And, if you haven't yet paid for the work, you can ask your contractor to finish the job in a manner that is satisfactory to you. If he agrees, throw him a bonus when it's all said and done.
Posted by: guest at May 2, 2008 7:06 PM
Plaster is best but sheetrock is cheap so go with sheetrock and dont worry, it works. Use the blue kind just to be safe against water damage.
good luck
Posted by: guest at May 3, 2008 7:51 PM
Drywall is not good for areas with condensation problems. it will absorb the moisture and start to mold. If moisture is present in the plaster, in less than a year the back of the drywall will be black. This is a problem you will have to readdress in less than 5 years. Plaster has a high PH lvl and mold will not grow on it.
Posted by: guest at May 17, 2008 5:49 PM
One thing to look out for: Make sure your contractor does not use pre-mixed joint compound for the taping and/or skim coat. It will look disgusting and make the repaired section even more obvious. It will not adhere to the plaster and basically crack and flake off. I personally use durabond/ sandable 90. You have to work quickly with it as it hardens similarly to concrete, however it does create a more "plaster-like" appearance. Good luck.
Posted by: guest at May 18, 2008 7:50 PM
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