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November 27, 2007
Caulking Question
I've just sanded the gloss off my bathroom walls - couldn't help it bought a Ridgid orbit sander and fell in love - I've also removed most of the old caulk. I'm ready to paint and re-caulk. Question. Which comes first.
Thanks.
Comments
Gloss paint does not need to be sanded off. Any good OIL based primer will cover and stick to the gloss just fine. Benjamin Moore fresh start of Zinser Killz oil based primers both work well. I've used 100's of gallons of each and they both work well (zinser being about 60% the cost of fresh start). Sanding paint is bad for your lungs, do it as little as possible.
What kind of caulk do you have? If its an Alex's caulk or similar (paintable caulk) it should be applied before painting, making sure to cover the caulk also. If your using silicone (non-paintable) is should be applied after the paint is dry.
Posted by: guest at November 27, 2007 2:17 PM
The walls were rough and bumpy which is why I went the sanding route - it's a really tiny space, wore a mask - wasn't that bad. Went with Zinser water based primer to avoid the fumes of oil based, also meant I wanted to prep really well. Will cover with Benjamin Moore Aura.
I bought Polyseamseal Tub & Tile Adhesive Caulk - water based latex with mildewcide. Says it's paintable - so I'll apply it before painting. Thanks very much for your help.
Posted by: boxbytheriver at November 27, 2007 2:49 PM
Most folks will use the water based paint over oil because of the fumes, but the results will never be as good as the oil (despite what the paint company wants you to think). Latex paint (expecially in a moist bathroom) will let water penetrate the wall until it reaches the old oil based paint. Thats where the moisture will stop and the paint peeling begins.
The fumes of oil are harsher, but thats because the product desolved in it is stronger. Anything water based, when exposed to water, will try and return to its original state (wet paint)
good luck
Posted by: guest at November 27, 2007 3:30 PM
Makes a great deal of sense - I definitely want to avoid peeling paint so you've given me serious food for thought - haven't opened my can of primer yet - might take it back and exchange for it for oil. Thanks again.
Posted by: boxbytheriver at November 27, 2007 4:57 PM
you may consider a respirator but ive found an exhaust fan (if you have a window) works best. organize everything before you open the paint so that you dont spend more time in there painting then needed and take a 5 min break if needed. Im sure youll have great results. have fun
Posted by: guest at November 27, 2007 5:57 PM
any preference for the finish on the top coat - eggshell? satin?
want to avoid high gloss - place gets pretty moist - do have a small window - thanks for the tip.
Posted by: boxbytheriver at November 27, 2007 6:15 PM
as far as I know the oil based finish paint only comes in gloss or semi-gloss. I believe eggshell is a color and satin is a flat finish for wood.
The semi gloss shouldnt be very glossy. The only completely flat finish in oil base is rustoleum but its really more for metal, although ive used it over oil base primer on drywall with great long term results (its in a rental)
Posted by: guest at November 27, 2007 7:23 PM
My painter told me that there's no problem using latex in bathrooms, provided you use a good primer like Bullseye 123. He did say, however, that oil paint is more durable. I went with oil out of superstition.
As for the caulking question, it depends where the caulk is. From bare walls, usually you prime, then caulk, then topcoat, b/c the topcoat will hide the caulk.
Posted by: guest at November 27, 2007 9:15 PM
Generally, I've always been taught that glossy paint (which I don't like, either) is stronger, more durable, and more washable than flat finish, especially when you're doing a bathroom. Satin is somewhere in between.
Posted by: Rehab at November 28, 2007 8:02 AM
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