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August 26, 2007
Stripping down (to the naked wood)
Hi all, We have been stripping the bannister of our stairwell using peel away 6 (actually a great product)and although we are getting a lot of it off-(I have attached a before picture so you can better understand the urgency)inevietably there are stubborn bits of paint and varnish that are holding on---anyone have any tips for getting these last shreds off?
Comments
try switching to a standard paint remover like Rock Miracle. Use metal bristle "toothbrushes" to scrub the wood clean. Then scrub again using water, to get any residue off. Wipe dry.
Posted by: guest at August 26, 2007 7:04 PM
I've had the same trouble with Peel Away. I think it's a good product however it's hard to remove paint in tight spots and it's so slow.....You will have to pick, scrape and sand a great deal to get it off. I switched to Rock Mirale and it all comes off fast. Wash the wood down with denatured alcohol and your mostly finished, just sand, stain and add a clear varnish.
Posted by: Rick at August 26, 2007 7:06 PM
tell me about it. My fingers and hands are spent! I will def. check out rock miracle. thanks for the tips.
Posted by: HomeSweetstuy at August 26, 2007 8:24 PM
be careful with rock miracle - I believe it may be quite carcinogenic if you breath the fumes or splash on your skin (aside from any immediate carcinogenic impact).
Posted by: guest at August 26, 2007 10:12 PM
yeah, I personally wouldn't use Rock Miracle indoors. It's highly toxic. Try PeelAway 7 (for antique wood) instead - I think it works a ton better than 6... I've tried 5 (or so chemical peels and found it to be the best.
For tough to get spots, I use dental picks (which you can get at hardware stores)... and, in some places, thick dark gel stain to "cheat" by simply covering the remaining paint. If you take yr time, it looks great.
Posted by: guest at August 27, 2007 10:21 AM
What about Quick zip? The salesperson at the hardware store swore by it. I haven't tried it yet. I know it is suppose to be very toxic but am not sure if it is the same as "Rock Miracle".
Once all this stripping of the purple paint is done (turns out there is mahogony under there) we were planning on using Teak Oil (by Watco)-which is suppose to be an all in one--Old school wood treatment. Other than the spontaneously combustable warning--it sounds great--anyone have any experience with it?
Posted by: HomeSweetstuy at August 27, 2007 10:44 AM
Although Rock Miracle is toxic, you should be wearing a mask and gloves anyway since you are dealing with lead paint. I strip lots of stuff and I need the Rock Miracle sometimes.
Posted by: guest at August 27, 2007 11:06 AM
I second that. Use a good quality mask ( not just a dust mask) and leather gloves or chemical-resistant rubber gloves and work in a well-ventilated area (outdoors if possible). Peel Away, while useful sometimes, is just not up to the task here and creates an unholy mess as the melted paint seeps out from under the paper.
Rock Miracle is the most effective paint stripper I've come across.
Posted by: guest at August 27, 2007 11:44 AM
Rock Miracle is methylene chloride stripper in gel form. There are many similar products, which you can tell by reading the ingredients.
Rock Miracle smells nasty and is undoubtedly not good for you, but it is the best way to get off those last remaining bits of paint, and you likely will just be applying it in spots, so the fumes should be manageable. Put the goop on and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. All the aformentioned tools are good, as are steel wool and plastic scrubbies.
I really like tung oil as a finish, and I think Watco is a good brand, though I've never used it. However, if you have a mahogany railing, the natural color is beautiful and you shouldn't need the stain component unless you have a lot of discoloration in the wood and need to even it out.
The nice thing about tung oil is you can slap another coat or two on every year when the finish dulls.
Posted by: tinarina at August 27, 2007 2:03 PM
Agree with everyone's comments about Rock Miracle being the most effective stripper. Regarding Watco, I used it once on a mantelpiece and was very happy with the result. It penetrated the wood to form a hard, dry finish which can then be waxed if you choose. However Watco is not pure tung oil, it's actually an oil/varnish mix and has a lot of VOCs in it. So if you are concerned about off-gassing, choose a pure tung oil with no added petroleum distillates.
Posted by: NeoGrec at August 27, 2007 3:11 PM
Try Denatured Alcohol and steel wool (Fine and Very Fine grade). Lots of elbow grease will get it done.
Posted by: tomgee at August 27, 2007 4:03 PM
I'd avoid steel wool in favor of scotchbrite-type pads. the steel fibers can get lodged in the wood (and in your fingertips). Peel-Away works great if you have a lot (more than 3) layers, but for less than that a methyl chloride stripper like RM is much more efficient and economical. You'll need to use it anyway on the details and leftover bits.
Something else to consider...if the wood was originally finished with shellac, you can in fact just use denatured alcohol and scotchbrite/stiff brush/steel wool. Be careful, though, as D.A. has methanol in it, so you'll need a respirator. Don' forget your dental picks and shavehook for the contoured areas...
Posted by: guest at August 27, 2007 5:47 PM
remove the banisters and spindles will make it much easier to apply. Use steel wool wire brushes sparingly and carefully. The metal tends to leave fibers in the wood which over a short time can oxidize and give your wood dark spots.
Posted by: funstraw at August 28, 2007 9:13 AM
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