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August 1, 2006
Bathroom Caulking Job
For years, the tile seams around my bathroom tub and shower have suffered from bad to worse caulking jobs. In response to my complaints about ugly, mildewed caulk, various handymen types have merely put new caulk over the old, each time making the seam wider and sloppier than before (albeit whiter in appearance). I would now like to get the job done completely right! I'm thinking this would mean a complete scrape off of all the old caulk layers and then application of the tidiest, smoothest and narrowest -- but still leak effective-- new caulk layer.
My questions are these: Other than another handyman with lots of experience doing this, is there any other kind of tradesperson I should call in for this task? Perhaps a tiler or painter/plaster type? And, regardless of who does the job, does anyone have any idea how much I should should expect to pay for this type of task on an area that is roughly 25 linear feet in size? Thanks!
Comments
Caulk always looks bad over time. I try not to use it anymore. I buy ceramic tile quarter round tile. It does the job and looks nice. You can get it at Bergan Tile . Or perhaps Home Depot or Lowes.
Posted by: Rick at August 1, 2006 4:46 PM
Rick is right, but also the chipest fastest way is to remove all the old culking,and apply new grout.
Posted by: Anonymous at August 1, 2006 6:13 PM
Not sure about tile vs. caulk but applying caulk is the easiest thing in the world. You can remove the old stuff with a utility knife or butter knife if it's old enough and apply it yourself with a bottle of caulk, a caulk gun, a finger, and a tongue to lick it. There's a number of things I'd pay other people to do but applying caulk is not one of them.
Posted by: Mateo at August 1, 2006 9:03 PM
I am the original poster. Mateo, I think it's my business what tasks I choose to take on in my own home and which I'd rather hire out to others. Obviously, in your home, you are the caulking king. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Rick, for taking the question seriously and offering a genuinely sensible, problem-solving alternative.
Posted by: anonymous at August 1, 2006 9:39 PM
There are most likely several different types of caulk that have been applied over time. You will need to remove it all and start with a clean surface. Not many people can apply caulk neatly. Be careful when scraping it off as you can leave black scratch marks on the tile. Make sure they use a mildew resistant silicon kitchen and bath grade caulk...one tube should do the trick. You can always mask the surfaces with tape if you don't think you can do it without messing it up. This should take a handyman 1 hour labor+ materials
Posted by: Anonymous at August 1, 2006 10:51 PM
Wow. Sorry someone peed in your coffee this morning. I was trying to help by telling you that what you want done is a very simple task that you don't need any type of tradesperson to do. If that's offensive, I'm really sorry about your life.
Some people.
Posted by: Mateo at August 2, 2006 12:25 PM
To OP,
I think you are a little over sensitive. When you post on a public board you are asking for people's opinions and expertise and given that you are looking for free information, take what you get and decide what makes sense for you. No need to be cranky. BTW, my husband who is so generally inept with home maintenance that he probably should not be allow to own property does do caulking - it one of the easiest home chores. Good luck.
Posted by: Anonymous at August 2, 2006 1:16 PM
Ok, Anon 1:16, the criticism is accepted. I admit to being cranky in my response to Mateo and promise to try and remember that email communications are always subject to great misinterpretation.
In my own defense, let me point out that there was nothing in my original post that suggested I was seeking tips on how to do this task myself. I'm very much aware of what's involved in caulking. However, at this point, I'm looking to arrest a recurring problem -- something that several others over the years have apparently not been able to do. That is why I found both Rick's and Anon 10:51's posts to be responsive and helpful.
For a variety of reasons, including time, logistics, physical challenges, etc., not everyone who posts to these boards is interested in DIY solutions. Why can't that fact be respected when a poster specifically asks for advice on who to hire and a guestimate of what the job should cost? A dismisive reply by others that they wouldn't spend their money in that manner can impress as pretty condescending.
Posted by: original poster at August 2, 2006 2:11 PM
can someone shoot "original poster" with a caulk gun?
Posted by: Washingtonian at August 2, 2006 2:39 PM
For a good, watertight seal, the caulk should be removed before new caulk is applyed. A flat razer scraper should be used, not a putty knife, if you want to avoid damaging the tiles. It shouldn't take more than 1 - 1.5 hours, and a neat (emphasis on the neat) handyman should be able to do it if you don't want to do it yourself. IMHO, I find that running a finger along the caulk line makes the smallest, smoothest caulk line.
Be careful if someone recommends grouting the line - grout is not meant for 90-degree angles, and probably is not flexible enough for that joint. Lastly, don't be cheap on the caulk. A couple of extra bucks on one tube of the lifetime-guaranteed silicone may save you headaches in the future.
Posted by: HC at August 2, 2006 3:22 PM
oops - razor, of course
Posted by: Anonymous at August 2, 2006 3:33 PM
Gee, Mateo, I was gonna say the same thing. Glad you got to it first. Ouch! OP, I apologize and understand if you really are physically challenged, but you would lose more time and energy dealing with the handyman than just doing it yourself.
Posted by: Yente at August 2, 2006 5:56 PM
What is it they say, Mateo? No good deed goes unpunished? Well, even if the OP didn't find it useful, I did. Any tips like that that people can pass along are always much appreciated to those of us without bucks to throw around. Maybe you can answer my related question? I have a beautiful piece of old tin ceiling that I am using as a backsplash for my freestanding clawfoot. What caulking would you recommend to seal the edges? I get confused with all the choices.
Posted by: Bx2Bklyn at August 3, 2006 12:19 AM
Calk should always be used where two dissimilar surfaces butt up against each other to allow for expansion and contraction. You can grout first but corners should be neatly caulked. DIY is over rated. If I had the cash I would pay to have everything done by someone else and I.m a handyman by profession. Don't be shocked to find a big gap under all that caulk. Sometimes
(whether from the tub sinking or a poorly planned tile job) a space is left that gets plugged with gobs of caulk over time. Be careful that the tile doesn't fall off when removing the caulk. Prior water damage may exist and the wall may not be holding the tile anymore.
Posted by: retired at August 3, 2006 8:45 AM
One of my pet peeves on message boards is when I ask for advice on how to do A and am instead told that nobody in their right mind would do A and that doing B is the way to go. But before I respond I try (not always successfully) to take a deep breath and remember that the great thing about message boards is that many people can learn from questions asked by one. It can feel so satisfying to snap back at the irrelevant/condescending/combative posts, but I try to tell myself that even though I'm not learning anything from them, someone else probably is, and the world goes 'round.
That having been said, I've never in my life found a handyman who could caulk well, so if anyone comes up with someone please let me know.
Posted by: Amy at August 3, 2006 10:25 AM
Here's a promising solution to permanently replace those caulking lines. Check out TILE EDGE Ceramic Tile Bath & Shower Edging Kit - Ceramic quarter round tile kit that beautifies and protects your bath & shower caulk lines. Website: www.tileedge.com
Posted by: Swede at August 21, 2006 1:27 PM
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