Roof/Gutter Leak


We have a two level roof. The upper level drains to the lower level, with a gutter that runs through the cornice of the front and then out to the front of the building to a downspout. During really heavy rain/storm events, where the rain is coming so fast that the lower roof is carrying a couple inches of water on it, the ceiling under the gutter leaks. The gutter pipe is made of three pieces – the opening that attaches to the roof, the copper pipe, and then the part that goes out to the downspout. We think the leak might be coming from the connection there, because when we’ve put a ton of roofing cement/tar type material into it, and then flooded the roof for testing, it’s fine. It’s only after the roof cement seems to be there for a few months, and then we have another heavy rain, that it leaks again. Does anyone have any suggestions for a more pemanent fix than putting roof cement in on a monthly basis? (PS. We replaced our entire roof last summer except for this gutter pipe, then it cracked, and we had to cut out the roof again to replace the gutter pipe, so the roof besides this one area is not the culprit).

Categories: Roofers
By theklahy | 09/20/2010 9:45 AM | Comment

Replacing Boiler?


Our oil boiler is very very old. We are hoping it will make it through another winter, and then we can replace it in the spring, but we aren’t sure this is a good idea to wait. Has anyone replaced their boilers recently? Is the general wisdom still that it is better to convert to natural gas rather than keeping oil boilers? How long does the whole process typically take, from start of work (with contractor) to completion of inspection? (I’m assuming that we need to get a permit and get it inspected, right?) Anyone have any recommendations for a good brand of boiler/water heater (either gas or oil)? We have almost 3000 sqft to heat and 11 radiators…

Thanks!!!!

Categories: Heating
By theklahy | 07/13/2010 11:45 AM | Comment

Plumber Rec and Plumbing ?


Ok, I have already contact and rejected all the typical brownstoner plumbers (alladin, gateway, and many others). Has anyone worked with a licensed plumber that is comparatively inexpensive? Note, I do not think that Alladin and Gateway are inexpensive or reasonable in their prices.

I need to fix a leak in a union joint and a broken gate valve from the water supply line coming into the basement.

One plumber quoted me $250, but he’s unlicensed, as it ends up. Another licensed one that I have verified is licensed says it’ll be about $750. He also is going to do it without freezing any of the water in the pipes, but on the fly, so they’ll cut the pipe open, hold a bucket under it, and try to get a ball valve on it before it spills too much.

Thoughts on whether freezing versus “on the fly” is better?

And any non-typical brownstoner plumber recommendations where the price was reasonable? We are on a super tight budget at this point, as we’ve already overspent our budget on almost everything else!

Thanks!

Categories: Plumbers
By theklahy | 02/23/2010 6:38 PM | Comment

Electrical Inspection


We are going to ask our electricial to schedule our electrical inspection soon. I wanted to get peoples’ input on whether a DOB electrical inspector will check out other elements of the house during the inspection and hand out violations.

I’ve heard that they generally focus on what they’re there to inspect unless there is obvious unpermitted work going on. The problem is that we have a lot of supplies and tools in our basement that we had used for the renovation, which was primarily cosmetic. I am concerned, for example, because there is a shed on the back of the house that was there and there was no permit for it, but I’m not even sure it needs a permit. It’s clearly newish construction – at least build post-1980s, is my guess. There is also a leak in our water supply line coming in from the street that is very slow. I’m tempted to get a plumber to fix it before we schedule the inspection. We have been trying to finish as many of the things on our worklist as possible before the inspection (like finishing restaining all of our wood panels/moulding), but I’m wondering if we’re not going overboard on being too worried about getting all this stuff done before we go ahead and schedule the inspection. Should we just schedule the inspection? All walls are closed and painted (some paint touch ups are needed), all bathrooms have been retiled, both kitchen renos are completed. The only things remaining are small things that take forever like fixing moulding, built-in drawers, paint touch ups, etc. How worried do I have to be about the inspection? Has anyone had one done recently?

Thanks!

Categories: DOB
By theklahy | 02/23/2010 3:48 PM | Comment

Ever heard of these plumbers?


I am getting quotes from three small plumbers:
- A to Z Plumbing and Heating
-Joshua Plumbing and Heating Contractor
- A&A Plumbing

Anyone ever heard anything about them? I think they are all located in Brooklyn.

Thanks!
Thekla

Categories: Plumbers
By theklahy | 02/23/2010 11:22 AM | Comment

Great Electrician


I wanted to recommend an electrician that we used to rewire our 4 story 2 family brownstone. His name is Sal, and he’s at LB Electric. His cell is 917-627-9903.

When deciding on an electrician, I believe I called between 10-15 of them and got quotes from at least 6 or 7. I called many of the recurring recommended electricians from this site, as well as a few other local electricians that I found through google searches or just from walking around my neighborhood. I wanted to go with someone who was local because the closer they are the better, in my mind.

I found LB Electric by googling online. Sal’s quote was by far the most reasonable. For example, his quote was 30,000 less than the highest quote I got (from one of the electricians who was recommended on this website). He gave me some corporate references for building companies that he’s done work for. They all checked out.

We are nearing the end of our project now – installing fixtures – and his work has been top notch, he has been reliable in showing up, and he’s done a lot of arguably extra things for us, suffered through some contract changes, and had a wonderful attitude the whole time. There were a few mistakes in the way the switches were wired by his employees, but they are fixing those now. Some of the boxes weren’t installed totally straight but he’s also fixing those. (Happily and without attitude or anger, which is a big plus in my opinion). He is very friendly and spends a lot of time personally making sure the job is right. I am posting him today because we thought that one of the workers dislodged some electrical piece that made our boiler stop working. We then got power to the boiler, but it wasn’t turning on. I called Sal who said he’d come over to fix it. It turns out it wasn’t an electrical problem, but somehow, another person (don’t know who) had turned off the water supply to the boiler. Sal fixed it for us, free of charge and happily and said “Hey, you don’t need to call a handyman! I used to fix boilers.” Last week, he took me to a lock wholesaler in the neighborhood because I had been having a hard time finding the right kind of electric lock for us. He waited at the store and helped me select one, and then got me a discount through his account with them. I have NEVER met a contractor who has been so nice, thorough, and reliable as Sal. I’d firmly recommend him to anyone.

If you have questions, I can try to respond to this post.

Categories: Electricians
By theklahy | 11/20/2009 3:48 PM | Comment

Door Placement Code


I have a building code question. We are renovating our two family home. There is currently no divider wall between the two units. The front of the house has a main exterior door. Then the vestibule. Then an interior door. Then the hallway, with a stair leading up to the upper unit, and the rest of the hallway on the floor being part of the lower unit. We wanted to put up a divider wall to divide the two units in the house. The divider wall would be located at the foot of the stairs that lead up to the 3rd floor. We would install two doors into the divider wall, one opening up immediately to a stair case going up to the third floor, one opening up to the 2nd floor hallway. Is it a problem to put a doorway (that would open outwards towards you) right at the bottom of a stair case? It would be about 12 inches away from the bottom stair. The other alternative is to put the door at the top of the landing, which is about 3 feet square, then the staircase right after. The door would have to open inwards to the unit. I can’t find anything on placement of doors in relation to stairways.

Thoughts?

By theklahy | 11/16/2009 6:45 PM | Comment

Crown Heights Historic District


Did anyone else living in Crown Heights North get a notice about the vote on the Historic District next week (whether the LPC will set a public hearing on creating a new historic district)? Is anyone going to attend? Is anyone familiar with how long it took for the other Crown Heights north historic district to be created (from start to finish)?

Also, as a side, does anyone have any idea what the heck is happening with the proposed Prospect Heights historic district? Why has that been languishing for so long after the public hearing? I saw the recent article a couple weeks ago, but it wasn’t super detailed.

Categories: Landmarks
By theklahy | 06/19/2009 5:56 PM | Comment

Brick in Back


Here is the back of my house. We just had it pointed and the person waterproofed the upper red section with a clear coat. We are trying to figure out what to do with the bottom, blue section. I am asking my Dad (who is here helping) to see if he can scrape/grind the paint off and then we can waterproof the original brick. Another option is painting each brick with a coat of red paint to match the red paint up above. (FYI, the upper section was painted a similar red to what the brick is, and portions of the red paint are there and some are missing, but it looks generally good). I don’t want to lose the brick look by slopping a whole nother coat of paint over the lower section. Thoughts?

Categories: Exterior
By theklahy | 06/16/2009 4:09 PM | Comment

Tile & Clawfoot Tub


We have two bathrooms with claw foot tubs and are trying to figure out the best way of waterproofing/modernizing the bathroom, while keeping the claw foot tub. We can install a shower body so that there shower head is high and vertically above the tub spout, etc, but what should we do along the wall around the tub? Obviously we need a circular shower curtain. But tile the whole thing? Expose the brick wall on one side of it and put glass over it, abutting with some tiled portion of it? Tile with a marble/ceramic shelf that overhands a little over the tub lip so that less water gets down around the tub?

What have others done with their claw foots?

Thoughts?

Thanks!
Thekla

Categories: Kitchen & Bath
By theklahy | 05/21/2009 4:30 PM | Comment