Withdrawing Permit App


Dear Brownstoners,
We filed an application for a permit (Alt type 2) to install a door in the rear wall of exsiting one-story extension, which has just been rejected for the third time. According to our architect and his expeditor the DOB changed the rule recently and now they consider all exterior walls to be “structural.” Despite two meetings with architect/expeditor, the DOB official still insists we need a different type of permit. We fear that pursuing this further would lead to more (possibly wasted) money and time, and are inclined to withdraw the application altogether. Question is: What are the consequences of withdrawing a permit application after it was rejected? What if we want to do different type of work on the house and need a permit in the future? And if and when we decide to sell the house, would most buyers care about a record of “disapproved and withdrawn” permit? If you can share your opinions/experience before we make the decision this Monday, we would really appreciate it. TIA.

Categories: Permits
By newkid | 04/16/2010 11:33 PM | Comment

Old Sewer Pipe – Replace?


Mid-way through our renovations, we discovered a hole and a crack in a section of 4″ cast iron sewer pipe under our garden unit (we have no basement), while trying to improve our backyard drain. Alex Figliolia did a video inspection of the entire 36 feet of pipe. While there were no more apparent cracks in the rest of the pipe, it is full of rust and has some standing water (partially back-pitched). The plumber who did the inspection thought the whole thing needs to be replaced – their quote is $5800. Our contractor will do it for 10K and restore everything. He also says (1) the plumber would often damage other parts of the home like walls and flooring in trying to get the job done quickly, and restoring everything to its original state could cost another $6000, and (2) they may find other problems while working and we could end up paying far more than their quote (An estimater from Figliolia mentioned they would inspect the line outside the house leading to the city sewer “for free.”).

Naturally the cheaper option appeals to us, but are these valid concerns? Has anyone used Fagliolia or other plumbers for this type of job, and had damage caused by plumbing work? And do they often create more work for themselves?

The other big question is we’re not even sure if this needs to be done. Pipe looks old and clogged, but we’ve never seen the inside of an old sewer pipe. If there are any plumbers out there willing to take a look at this pipe, go here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lta0Dy748hY

(The said crack seen at 13 – 15 seconds into it, top right corner of screen. This is after our contractor used a snake to clean it out.)

This new problem comes right after a couple of hiccups including flooding on Saturday 13th. We’re running out of money, and having a difficult time deciding what to do — just patch up the pipe and bury it, pretend we never saw it, or spend addional 6 – 10K and have peace of mind. So hearing from anyone who’s gone through a similar situation would be much appreciated.

Many thanks in advance for your help.

Categories: Plumbing
By newkid | 03/24/2010 10:18 PM | Comment

Uneven Concrete fl (+moisture)


Hi, I’m wondering if you guys can help with suggestions on what to do with our rather crooked concrete (sub)floor. It’s on the garden level of a small frame house with no basement. We removed the tiles and the exposed concrete subfloor is sloped and uneven (a few inches difference over 50 ft front to back).

In addition, with all the snow past couple of weeks and the old tiles gone, we now see three moisture spots on the perimeters of the extension (contained within the last 5 ft of the kitchen that we’re also redoing). Plan is to dig and put gravel or pour concrete around the extension, but this has to wait till the weather’s warmer. And until we know how effective this remedy will be, we can’t decide which type of flooring can be installed.

Since this ground floor will be our main living space (living, dining, and kitchen), we eventually want a floor covering that’s softer and warmer underfoot than concrete or tiles (Although our contractor recommends tiles). Bamboo would be ideal, but we also like cork and linoleum. But for now, our budget is limited and we probably want a temporary solution that’s cheap(er) and easier to replace/cover up.

Another problem we have is that the ceiling is low (under 7′ in some areas), so we want to avoid raising the existing floor level.

What do people recommend as to:
1) Do we live with finished concrete for now, or should we put in tiles or some other moisture-proof flooring before the kitchen cabinets go in?
2) If we go with concrete, how should we prep the surface, so we can install a real floor later? Is griding down thinset/concrete a good option, as opposed to self-leveler?
3) If we put in flooring now, are there options other than tiles (taking into account the moisture issue)?
4) Can we install flooring later without removing the kitchen cabinets (IKEA Akurum) and appliances?
5) Is there some genius solution out there that we aren’t aware of?

This is a lot to think about for us and we have a week to make the decision. If anyone has had similar experience and/or willing to share your ideas, I’d much much appreciate it. TIA.

Categories: Floors
By newkid | 03/05/2010 3:13 PM | Comment

Countertops from Weisman?


We’re redoing our kitchen and Weisman on McDonald Av gave a great price quote on the countertop. If anyone has purchased a stone or man-made stone (Silestone, etc.) countertop from Weisman, can you share your experience? Their price (incl installation) is about $500 cheaper than the other places but we also read a couple of negative reviews about their countertop installation service. If their work is not good it may be worth paying extra $$ to go with a place with proven track record. What do you think? TIA.

Categories: Renovation
By newkid | 02/15/2010 1:22 PM | Comment