Legal Maximum Fence Height in Brooklyn?


Does anyone know what is the legal maximum fence height between houses that share a sideyard in Brooklyn?

Categories: DOB
By mystiky | 05/25/2011 11:10 PM | Comment

Will DOB be on my Side for House Expansion?


I have the following scenario that may happen. My house has a zero-lot side with a neighboring house. So their property line starts exactly where my bricks end. However, there is a space of at least 4 feet between our two houses.

I am about to undergo a house remodeling exnesion, in which the whole back side of my house will be knocked down and a new one rebuilt using brick veneer. In order to properly tie-in the existing remaining brick to the new one, my contractor and masonry specialist will need access to their backyard.

I am doing eveything 100% legally as I have all the permits (already pulled from the DOB), and my contractor is fully licensed and insured.

What happens that if in order to properly complete this work (so it will get signed off by the strctural engineer and city inspector), and the neighbor refuses access to his/hers property in order to do so, is there a NYC DOB rule(s) or clause which force them to allow access in order so that this approved by BSA and DOB job gets completed?

I would agree to all stipulations that they ask for (escept money) like what hours to work, to fix and put back everything as it was, etc.

If anyone has comments or advice, I would really appreciate it.

I am in Park Slope, Brooklyn — don’t know if it matters.

Categories: DOB
By mystiky | 05/23/2011 7:21 PM | Comment

Can my neighbor block access for construction?


I have the following scenario that may happen. My house has a zero-lot side with a neighboring house. So their property line starts exactly where my bricks end. However, there is a space of at least 4 feet between our two houses.

I am about to undergo a house remodeling exnesion, in which the whole back side of my house will be knocked down and a new one rebuilt using brick veneer. In order to properly tie-in the existing remaining brick to the new one, my contractor and masonry specialist will need access to their backyard.

I am doing eveything 100% legally as I have all the permits (already pulled from the DOB), and my contractor is fully licensed and insured.

What happens that if in order to properly complete this work (so it will get signed off by the strctural engineer and city inspector), and the neighbor refuses access to his/hers property in order to do so, is there a NYC DOB rule(s) or clause which force them to allow access in order so that this approved by BSA and DOB job gets completed?

I would agree to all stipulations that they ask for (escept money) like what hours to work, to fix and put back everything as it was, etc.

If anyone has comments or advice, I would really appreciate it.

I am in Park Slope, Brooklyn — don’t know if it matters.

Categories: Legal
By mystiky | 05/23/2011 4:37 PM | Comment

Are Arc-Fault Breakers Now Required in NYC?


I know that Arc-Fault circuit breakers are required for newly-built bedrooms.

My question is are they now required for KITCHEN (recessed) lighting too?

I was told that New York City was not requiring this up until a couple of months ago, but I cannot find any info if it’s true or not.

Anyone know?

Categories: Electricians
By mystiky | 05/17/2011 6:08 PM | Comment

Using a Garbage Crusher in the Sink Question?


I live in a 1930′s brick house in Brooklyn. Luckily, the sewer system from my house to the city sewer line (75 feet long) is in good condition. However, the sewer portion (trap) that runs from the back of my house to the front (and later connecting in the main trap to the 75-foot section) has had blockage happen two times during the last 20 months, causing the cellar’s toilet to overflow and flooding into the basement. The last event happened about a week ago. Both times, a professional came with snake and everything cleared up within minutes. The emergency service plumber told me that even that pipe should be okay, as otherwise, the 3 1/2 inch snake that he used would had gotten stuck (due to a crack in the pipe, etc..). He went on to tell me that as long as I do this snaking once a year, I should be just fine.

In any case, I am going to have a plumber here working starting next week, as we are building a completely new kitchen (replacing all pipes there). I want him to use a camera to find out whats is really going on this “troubled” section. Just to make sure.

What does all of this information have to do with the garbage crusher in my new sink? Because I just heard from some that told me that since I have such a situation in the basement, it may be best that I do not install a Waste King device under the sink. His reasoning was that if I use the Waste King and do not properly “wash down” the crushed contents” with water, it may “dry-up” or “clump” up over time, causing me more repetative blockage in my sewer.

I would like to hear your opinion. Does it really create more danger for my situation? BTW: I was thinking of getting a 3/4 HP or 1 HP model.

Thank you in advance for your input.

Categories: Plumbing
By mystiky | 04/27/2011 12:45 PM | Comment

Need advice for 50-watt recessed lighting in the kitchen


In about a weeks time, construction will begin to expand my kitchen. This will involve moving an outside wall and completely rebuilding the existing parts from scratch (floors, ceilings, drywalls, electricty, tiles, cabinets, etc.)

My design calls for 15 recessed lights to be implemented, using 3-zones. Although I do have a budget, I want to see if I have any other options besides what is being suggested by my general contractor.

I know many folks are using the EuroFase products as a good, decent solution. I am especially aware of their GIMBAL MR16 , 12V GIMBAL HOUSING/TRIM KIT product:

http://www.eurofase.com/products/browse.cfm?productID=0be0f41f-3048-8bc6-c33f-501b98b58e40

It will run me about $70 for each kit + light (not including installation costs). What concerns me is that I have heard from a few people that use them that the transformer often starts to develop a “noise” issue, which believe me, could become bothersome. These units are made in Canada thought.

So my questions are:

1) Is there another brand (include the model please) that’s out there, which costs up to $100 that does a better job — meaning a more consistent product? I am looking for the simple, classic white trim to go with the recessed light.

2) Generally, what is the difference in light output (lumen) between a 120 volt bulb or 12 volt bulb (MR16/C). For example, the wattage of MR16/C is 50 watts and so is on the GU10 type. But are both lights shining equally strong?

3) Again, this is lighting for the kitchen only. I want to have bright lights as I have a 9 foot ceiling there. I am not looking for soft white for this occasion. LED is out of the question.

4) Are there any companies that make a non-transformer 50-watt recessed lights that you would recommend? I know it rarely happens, but if the transformer goes bad, the ceiling will need to be cut open for repair/replacement.

I hope that you have some guidance for me. This is my first time doing such serious home improvement work and I want to make sure that it is done right.

Thanks!

By mystiky | 04/26/2011 8:35 PM | Comment

Anderson 400 or Pella ProLine? Please advise!


I need to install TWO 36×48 casement windows in my kitchen and ONE 32×80 Single Patio Door.

I have narrowed my choices between using Anderson 400 or the Pella ProLine (wood) series.

My kitchen wall is being rebuilt from ground up and the patio door is being converted from an existing window. This is a brick house.

I would love to hear from the “experts” about the longevity and quality of both.

Categories: Windows
By mystiky | 04/18/2011 12:15 PM | Comment

Looking for Consulting Engineer


I will be doing a minor expansion of kitchen + balcony + basement digout in a few months in a one-family, two-story house. Everything is being done legally and plan has already been approved by the DOB.

I have been told by my architect that I need to hire an engineer for the finals plans.

I have interviewed one and his price quote of $2,200 seems to be high and I am not sure I was impressed by his approach in telling me that he would have to charge me every time he would have to come down to inspect the work being done.

So, can someone please recommend a good NYC licensed engineer?

My work is to be done in Bay Ridge Brooklyn.

Categories: Architects
By mystiky | 02/01/2011 10:31 AM | Comment

Need recommendation for TR-2 / TR-3 tester


I was informed that in order for our project to start, we need to do something called TR-2 / TR-3 test since we are going to be inserting a new concrete slab into the ground to support a new balcony/roof.

Can someone please recommend a facility that does this type of testing? I am in Brooklyn.

By mystiky | 11/12/2010 12:22 PM | Comment

Need Constructional Engineer for TR-2 / TR-3 soil test


I was informed that in order for our project to start, we need to do something called TR-2 / TR-3 test since we are going to be inserting a new concrete slab into the ground to support a new balcony/roof.

Can someone please recommend a facility that does this type of testing? I am in Brooklyn.

By mystiky | 11/08/2010 12:35 PM | Comment