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Violation for work done before contract signed?
I’m almost in contract for a pre-war apartment. I asked the seller to change the archaic fuse panel for the lighting to a breaker panel, thinking we’d outline the work agreed upon in the contract, and work would commence after going into contract. In fact, the seller (sponsor sale) went ahead and had the work done by their electrician. Now my electrician is saying that since they did not pull permits for the work, if a DOB inspector ever comes to look at any future work I may do, he might notice the breaker panel, and I’d get hit with a violation. Is this the case, even though they did the work before I even signed the contract? How likely is this? How much is the fine? As long as the work is done correctly, would I be on the hook for any more? Would it mean I’d have to go back and actually file for permits after the fact? Thanks!
04/04/2011 10:03 AM
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Electric stove in pre-war apartment
I’m almost in contract for a pre-war apt with an electric stove, but there are two issues that concern me. There’s a dedicated 40 amp line for the stove with an (old!) fuse panel containing two fuses (see photo).
Concerns:
1) Stove is GE Hotpoint 30″ freestanding electric range model RB540SPSA. Specs here: http://products.geappliances.com/ApplProducts/Dispatcher
The specs say Amp Rating at 208V is 40 amps, but Kw rating at 208V says 9.9. That’s 9900 watts / 208 = 47.6 amps. My electrician feels based on this, a 50 amp line is the safest min line. But the manufacturer specs say 40 amp rating for stove. Should I be concerned there’s not enough power in the 40 amp dedicated electrical line if the stove could draw as much as 47.6 amps? Seller insists the 40 amp line is sufficient. All stoves in the building have a 40 amp dedicated line.
2) The fuse panel for the stove contains the two fuses in the photo. I could not tell what they were but the super say my apartment and all the apartments in the building have a 60 amp fuse on the top and a 40 amp fuse on the bottom. I talked to my electrician about this and he says they both need to be 40 amp fuses because it’s a 40 amp line. The super could be wrong, but I don’t think so. It seems to me there should be 40 amp fuses so the fuse would blow if the stove uses above 40 amps. If the stove was able to draw up to 60 amps before the 60 amp fuse blew I thought it could cause an electrical fire. But maybe there’s some reason a 60 and 40 amp fuse work together?
Appreciate your input!
04/01/2011 1:19 PM
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Electrical in a Pre-War Co-Op
I have an accepted offer on a 100 SF 1 bedroom in a 1937 co-op, and am running into an electrical issue.
I hired an inspector to come out and the sponsor/seller would not allow him in any of the mechanical rooms for “insurance reasons”, so he could not verify the total amperage into the apartment. There are only fuses, no circuit breaker box. There are 6 fuses, 15 amps each (no circuit breaker) and a dedicated 20 amp for the electric stove. It is critical to me that I be able to replace the current cheap coil stove with an induction cooktop range/oven or an built in induction cooktop and separate wall oven. Specs of the ones I’m looking at say 30-40 amps necessary.
My inspector interviewed the sponsor and they had no idea about the amperage into the apt. So I emailed and asked again. They said they thought 110 amps. My inspector thinks they were mistakenly referring to the voltage.
I’m already pissed off because this could have been taken care of in 5 minutes if they’d let my inspector in to check, but I don’t want to complete walk away from the sale, for lots of other reasons. But how do I get actual proof of the amperage into the apt? In addition, my inspector says if indeed they meant it was 110 volts instead of 110/220v then that’s not as powerful.
What do I need minimum to run the stove/oven I want – voltage and amperage wise? What would the difference be if I went with a combo cooker/stove in one appliance vs a cooktop built into the counter and a separate wall oven – would I just need two dedicated breakers instead of one in the latter case?
Other than those, at most I’d run 2 8000 BTU A/Cs at the same time in different rooms, plus lamps, computer. Nothing else major.
My inspector says he’d be happy with 60 amps into the unit, if not I have to upgrade. I’m ok to do that, but he says I’d need to make sure that there was enough electric coming into the building to even upgrade. How can I get the seller to give me info I can be sure is correct – they don’t seem to know the accurate info now. Should I ask my attorney to add it to the contract that the seller represents there is X voltage, X amperage? Or that there is sufficient electric coming into the building for me to upgrade to 60 or 100 amps?
I want to be able to move on to negotiating a few grand off the price due to some other capital improvements that are needed, so i don’t want to get into a war with the sponsor over the electrical first. I just want to know I have verifiable, correct info.
I welcome your advice!
02/18/2011 10:45 AM
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Splitting One Bedroom Into Two
I’d love some advice about splitting one bedroom into two. I’m considering apartments (like the one pictured) with one bedroom that could potentially become two if necessary. In the bedroom on the right, I could put a wall up in the middle to create two small bedrooms, and create a doorway to the second bedroom from the living room. Two major concerns:
- It’s in a pre-war building, and walls are plaster. How difficult / costly would it be to cut out some of the wall to create the second bedroom door?
- Radiators are both near the window in the bedroom. So if I put a wall up across the room, it would cut off heat to the other room. I imagine this would affect how the room is categorized (can’t be considered a legal bedroom without direct heat source?). But I guess it would be ok with me as long as the room were warm enough. Seems like these pre-war buildings are always too hot even. But if it’s not warm enough, I’d imagine creating another heat source inside the room would be very difficult and/or costly. Maybe impossible. Thoughts? It’s a co-op, so it’s not like it would be my whole property to rip apart and install new heating elements.
01/13/2011 9:45 AM
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Mold or Efflorescence?
I’m attaching a photo of a mysterious substance on a wood door frame I noticed at an open house this weekend. Substance is while, dried, and caked on – with brown staining. Anyone have thoughts about what it is?
The apt is 4th floor, so it’s not basement moisture. It’s on a wood door frame between a bathroom and the kitchen – and from the photo it looks like the source of moisture is under the floor. Maybe a pipe leak?
I’m interested in the apartment for a lot of other reasons, but this is daunting. However, I have no idea how serious it is. A friend suggested I ask the sponsor to pay for a mold/moisture specialist of my choosing before making an offer or going into contract. Think that will work? (Condo building has 5 avail units and only one is in contract, so sponsor may agree to get another into contract.)
12/08/2010 1:45 PM
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PLG -306 Lincoln Rd.
Anyone live (or know someone who lives) in a condo at 306 Lincoln Rd betw Rogers and Nostrand? Or who just lives on that block?
I’m considering buying a place that’s being converted by the same developer who converted 306 Lincoln, on the same block, and would love any insight from people who bought in that building or live on that street.
Generally, I’d want to hear what folks have to say about the general vibe of the block (safety late at night, noise level, sense of community, etc.) and the surrounding neighborhood.
Specifically, I’d want to hear how the developer’s renovations are holding up at 306 Lincoln, if there are any problems with the systems or the quality of the work, and the management company that handles the building.
Also, feel free to PM me directly at lapinagile05@gmail.com.
Thanks!
11/29/2010 1:31 PM
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Thoughts on 252 Greene Ave Condos in Clinton Hill?
Anyone live in the condos at 252 Greene Ave. or knows someone who does that can give me their take on living there? (Feel free to PM me at lapinagile05@gmail.com.)
I was interested in one of the units (pre-war condos in my price range are hard to come by), but the comments on this old post were daunting:
http://www.brownstoner.com/brownstoner/archives/2007/11/condo_of_the_da_80.php
I think the asking price is too high as is, but even if I could negotiate significantly, I’m still wary after seeing what people had to say about the potential structural issues. Just want to see if anyone has had firsthand experience, and if there really are significant issues.
Thanks!
11/15/2010 9:18 PM
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PTAC Heating and Cooling?
I’m looking at new development condos which all have electric PTAC A/C and heating. My research shows the electric bills with these can be exhorbitant and inefficient for cold climates. Does anyone know how much heating and cooling will cost per month? Also, not sure how much they cost to maintain and how long they last. Advice is much appreciated!
For example’s sake, one apt I’m particularly interested in is a 725 SF 1 and a half bedroom, which has a Friedrich Smart Center unit in the living room (open plan kitchen/living room) and another in the bedroom. Living room and bedroom both have large sliding glass doors onto 320 SF terrace. The second “bedroom” only has a skylight window and no wall window and no heating/cooling unit at all. I’d want to use it as a real bedroom though. This seems like it is probably a deal breaker, since I’d have to come up with a heating/cooling solution for this room without making a hole in the wall.
Love the layout, building and the huge terrace, but the HVAC seems like it will add a lot of costs on to the monthly payment.
09/19/2010 9:41 PM
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Realtor for First Time Purchase, FHA Financing?
I’m a first time homebuyer looking for a good buyer’s agent, and would love recommendations.
Here’s my situation: Looking to buy a two family townhouse/brownstone in the $200,000-$500,000 range, and rent out the other unit. I don’t have close to 20% down but I have near perfect credit, no debt and a solid income. I have about $15,000 for a DP and want to keep rest of my cash for unexpected things coming up (another $15,000) so I’ll have to get an FHA or FHA 203(k) loan.
Thanks!
07/20/2010 1:45 PM
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artistgarden
May 21, 2012 | 02:16 PM