Website Seeks PDF’s of Condo Plans


I responded to a forum post a few days ago regarding the cost for a condo conversion. I had done some research and came across this site:www.offeringplanet.com. It is a free online collection of copies of condominium and cooperative offering plans. They have a bunch of real condo offering plans posted that are a real education, especially for someone like myself who had never read one.

It turns out they are looking for PDF copies of offering plans and/or amendments to offering plans. You can contact them at info@offeringplanet.com or utilize the site’s online document drop box so that copies can be made available to others.

By brucef | 04/05/2011 12:58 AM | Comment

Sagging Floors


I’ve read many posts questioning the possibility of correcting sagging floors.

Over time floor joists may deflect from straight to reflect a lack of support in some way. This can be caused by any number of reasons.

Once these floor joists have over time adopted a new shape (banana??) they are stubborn about resuming their original straight shape.

I have gut renovated homes including taking all plaster, ceilings etc out. In terms of straightening joists, this would be a best case scenario.

What I have found is you can lift the joists given enough strength, but you can’t make’em straight again. The banana is now in a new position, but it isn’t straight.

Best practice:
1. Make strong support walls
2.Sister joists if you want level floors.
The floors have to be open, but it’s faster, cheaper, and the results will be secure and straight.

3.I have found that it helps to bite the bullet and sister both sides with an appropriate mixture of 2X6/2X8/2X10′s, thru bolted.

4. I sister both sides because old joists don’t go straight left to right, and the spacing can range from 18″ to 27″. The 1.5″ thckness on both sides of every joist reduces the largest spacings to a manageable width to bridge with tongue and grooved plywood subfloor.

None of this applies if you are trying to preserve existing flooring, as the above assumes floors removed.

Good Luck

Bruce

Categories: Renovation
By brucef | 08/12/2010 6:36 PM | Comment

History of Buildings Layout?


Do any of you Brownstoners have a waste line in the front of your house?

I have been trying to figure out the usage over the years of a 1842 house, currently a 4 family. When I purchased in 80′s, previous owners had been there 50 years, and they had installed kitchens and baths in the 1950′s. That plumbing was two rear chases, one for kitchens across from stairwell, andthe other 4″ stack down stair side rear corner. So far that is typical and usual.

My question regard a 3rd 4″ watseline that goes across basement ceiling, then up front, half in the wall in the front hallway, near to the bottom of stairs, maybe 2′ forward of newel post.

I have found various gas fittings in front parlors, next to fireplaces.

does this sound familiar? I can imagine a rooming house, or coldwater flat arrangement.

I have even imagined that this front waste line was installed before the rear chases? There don’t seem to be any waste connections on the garden or parlor floors. Would there have only been toilets or plumbing on the 2nd and top floors? Would this have been done when house still had a family, perhaps with roomers?

I have deduced that there was a renovation around 1900, when parquet floor were installed, definitely before the steam heating system was installed.

I’m usually pretty good with figuring out old houses, but this 3rd stack puzzles me. Any ideas?

Categories: Plumbing
By brucef | 01/12/2009 3:06 AM | Comment

Parquet floor sanding


Anyone out there have any tips for floor sanding an old parquet floor?

The parquet is full 3/4″ thick, and has been sanded only once before. I hate to admit this, but I think I sanded it 20 years ago, but I can’t remember.

There are marks from cross cut sanding, (I know, always sand with the grain) but how does one sand parquet that goes both directions?

Does any one out there have a tradesperson who has done a good job on parquet?

I will need to patch a few areas, so i have to take up some material from one area and reinstall it in another. Is there any good trick or getting the parquet strips up intact? They are the old 11″X 2 1/4″ strips, nailed to the strip under floor with cut nails. I figure this was a renovation performed between 1890 and 1910, partly because I can tell that the floor was laid before old steam radiators were installed, so it predates central heat.

House dates from 1846, but this floor covers what must have been hearth in front of fireplace, so it cannot be original. Any ideas about my dating?

Categories: Floors
By brucef | 04/11/2008 2:30 AM | Comment

Kitchen Need a Vent?


I am considering relocating a kitchen to center of fllor thru apartment. Does a kitchen by code require a vent to th eoutside or a window?

This 4 family house.

Categories: Building Code
By brucef | 04/03/2008 11:04 PM | Comment

Remove Stairs from Parlor floor to Garden?


22′ wide brownstone. Four floor 4 family

Can we remove internal flight of stairs going down from parlor floor to garden apartment floor? There is separate entrance under stoop to garden apartment, and rear door from garden apartment to large back yard.

We want to reconfigure parlor floor apartment, including maybe relocating kitchen from rear to middle room, which would move bedroom to rear.

As parlor floor lacks little room, there could be room for closet space if the stairwell and small lannding at top of stairway going down were eliminated.

Have any of you done that and/or gotten it approved?

Categories: Building Code
By brucef | 03/01/2008 2:34 AM | Comment

Boiler Room Rules??


I am re-doing our block boiler room in a four family row house. We have been told that we need to install two layers of 5/8″ drywall (which we have done), but also cover that with sheet metal.

Our questions are:

1.Do the layers of drywall in the ceiling need to be taped and compounded?

2.Do the sheets of galvanized sheet metal need to be overlapped?

3.Any other tips or rules about the regulations.

4.We are also doing the basement ceiling in single 5/8″, do these joints need to be taped?

Categories: Building Code
By brucef | 01/28/2008 11:17 AM | Comment

What Trade fixes downspouts?


I need two front of brownstone downspouts replaced. I did them with 3″ PVC pipe 20 years ago, but one cracked, and the other is separated from the gutter flange? up at the cornice.

It is 4 stories, a little too high for me on a ladder. One building has a fire escape on the front, complicating access. there also are trees, whic could make a lift trickier.

My question, who does this kind of work? Roofers? Masons? I have copper gutters and downspouts on the back, but should we be afraid they’d be stolen in the front?

Does anyone out there know who does this, or recommendations?

Thanks,

Bruce

Categories: Construction
By brucef | 11/11/2007 2:52 AM | Comment

Contractor Recommendation for basement ceiling


We are having th eold sheetrock pulled down and hauled away, but we are seeking a reliable person/firm to install 5/8″ drywall on the 750sq ft basement ceiling. Only 6′ long sheets will fit downstairs, and it will need to be neat and jointed but not pretty. Anyone know someone to call? We could do it ourselves but it would take us forever.

Categories: Construction
By brucef | 11/05/2007 11:15 PM | Comment