« Upper Level of Sands Street Gate House Gone Brooklyn Sales: Under a Million »

April 17, 2009

The Beginning of the Williamsburg Dining Scene

"This latest, most delicious chapter in Williamsburg's history began in the early 1990s, as artists in search of large, cheap loft spaces near Manhattan continued to colonize the neighborhood's abandoned industrial spaces. Two friends, Mark Firth and Andrew Tarlow, bought a rundown 1920s diner just down the street from Peter Luger and, in 1998, installed a neighborhood bistro. In a burst of imagination, they named it Diner. "I don't think we had any grand vision of changing the neighborhood," says Tarlow, who then lived in a 6,000-square-foot loft for which he paid less than $2,000 per month. (Just before the current recession hit, local real estate had been selling for $1,000 per square foot.) "You could stand outside the restaurant in those days and not see a single person walk by. But we fed the neighborhood—all these people like us who lived in lofts without kitchens.""
— "A Scene Grows in Brooklyn," Bon Appetit, May 2009, Photo by roboppy

Trackback Pings

TrackBack URL for this entry:
http://www.brownstoner.com/mte/mt-tb.cgi/9341

Comments

It is what it is...

Posted by: JPD at April 17, 2009 11:26 AM

Some of us had kitchens, just for the record.

Posted by: Heather at April 17, 2009 11:51 AM

Wow, it's amazing to me that now the Williamsburg food scene is finally officially recognized. And by Bon Appetit no less. It took forever. I'm glad it took as long as it did.

Also, is it just me, or is Dressler not that good? When I went -- only once and a long time ago -- it was basically no different from Dumont, only a lot more expensive and everything was waaaaaaaay too salty, especially the green vegetable, which was virtually inedible because of the extreme amount of salt.

But now Dumont isn't as good as it used to be, and they've raised the prices. On the other hand, it's easier to get a table.

Posted by: mopar at April 17, 2009 12:42 PM

I think Dressler is really good, although I have had some dishes that were not so great and the usual culprit was overly aggressive salting. I have been many times though and overall, I give it a thumbs up. Brunch is a great deal as well.

I love eating out in williamsburg. New restaurants continue to open or old ones are revamped and things just keep getting better. I live in the neighborhood and when I want to guarantee myself a great meal, I have a short list in the neighborhood that never disappoint:

marlow and sons
diner
sweetwaters
Peter Luger
moto
dumont

on the seventh day I make dinner at home.

Posted by: king of the burg at April 17, 2009 1:01 PM

king -
you know i find both fornino pizza and motorino pizza to both be just so damn good! the both have such fresh and amazing ingredients. also, what about Walter Foods or Rye? - I haven't been to Rye yet.
do you like dumont for brunch? i love it for brunch. don't know where they get their eggs and bacon, but they are sooo amazing! and great french toast and great steak for steak and eggs too.
given your leanings - try Oak on Graham.

Posted by: wine lover at April 17, 2009 1:21 PM

Dressler is good - but can be inconsistent. Will be curious to see if they manage to keep their michelin star - which fwiw dressler is the only restaurant in brooklyn besides luger with a star.

holy crap - walter foods is the sh*t. i will be there tonight and have been looking forward to it all week.

Posted by: dirty_hipster at April 17, 2009 2:10 PM

correction - saul on smith st has a MS too.

Posted by: dirty_hipster at April 17, 2009 2:13 PM

Also, wait a sec, Diner wasn't the beginning of anything. Oznot's was there before Diner, and Teddy's, which basically served the same kind of food. And on the southside near the bridge was Right Bank, which at times also had decent grub and in the summer had great barbeque.

Okay, I guess Diner was a bit more upscale... but only sorta. And if you're just talking about Broadway, does a stretch of restaurants all owned by the same people really constitute a "movement?" It is more like a theme park.

I love Williamsburg's restaurant scene, and loved Diner, but I think there's some overreaching here.

And, finally, if you could afford 6,000 square feet of space in 2000, I think you could afford to buy a stove from the used appliance guys next to the bridge and call it a kitchen. I know, I know, it's still a nice quote for the magazine and all, but... maybe I am a bit cranky today.

Posted by: Heather at April 17, 2009 2:30 PM

mopar, you described my impression of Dressler to the T.

In fact I'm surprised at how many new, potentially delicious restaurants have the salt problem.

One important aspect of Diner and their ilk is the decor/ambiance. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I understand that they don't use outside help for design; they do everything themselves. I think this adds another level of originality and authority to their gastronomic mini-empire (diner, marlow, bonita).

I've mentioned this place before, but the one restaurant i really miss is Paloma's, which was in Greenpoint and shut down due to a fire. They were as good as Marlow, and occasionally better/more daring. I hope, pray, wish they get their place back on track.

Posted by: iz at April 17, 2009 2:37 PM

Heather, a lot of people were living in work-only spaces back then, hence NO KITCHENS. But I here you about the "movement". It is more like a monopoly.

Posted by: iz at April 17, 2009 2:38 PM

here=hear

Posted by: iz at April 17, 2009 2:41 PM

My Moon be da bomb! Ga go back.

***Bid half off peak comps***

Posted by: Brownstones Half Off at April 17, 2009 4:02 PM

Wine Lover-

I loved Walter Foods. I have been twice. Both times really impressed! Great Drink and great food. I suppose I could consider that to be part of my short list.

Stopped into Rye the other night. didn't eat, just wanted to scope the menu/interior and I had a great cocktail at the bar. the folks working were really nice and the menu looked great. Looking forward to giving it a try.

I have never had brunch at Dumont. Maybe I will give it a try this weekend. I love the backyard there. Also, I have walked by Oak several times and have been curious. Thanks for the recommendations!

you know, when it comes to pizza I can't help but hop on the L, take it one stop and go to Luzzos on First Avenue. Nothing I have had is as good. I just love that place!

Posted by: king of the burg at April 17, 2009 4:17 PM

King - you must try motorino - graham @ devoe. it's being written about nationally. i read about it in GQ actually. it's terrific.

Posted by: wine lover at April 17, 2009 4:20 PM

wine lover - do you know if motorino delivers?

Currently Fornino is my go to pizzaria but won't deliver past Union Ave.

Posted by: dirty_hipster at April 17, 2009 4:43 PM

A friend of mine has been talking about motorino. I will give it a go.

Posted by: king of the burg at April 17, 2009 4:49 PM

Will try Oak, thanks.

My current favorites:

*Walter Food
*Bacci & Abracci (pasta, pizza, salad -- not entrees -- the brunch egg and bacon pizza is great)
*El Almacen -- unbelievable spinach salad, short rib, churros con chocolate
*Superior (except it's impossibly crowded)
*Taco Bite if you want something cheap, has green salad, margaritas, awesome al pastor burrito
*Aurora for brunch

And I suppose these don't really count but:
*Enid's for brunch, best huevos rancheros I ever had
*Northeast Kingdom

Agree, Rye is very pretty. I'm afraid to try it given my experience with Dressler. Don't know who Diner hires but the Dumont group hires a lot of local artisans.

Anyone been to the Arepa bar on Grand? Any good?

Posted by: mopar at April 17, 2009 6:43 PM

« Upper Level of Sands Street Gate House Gone Brooklyn Sales: Under a Million »

April 17, 2009

The Beginning of the Williamsburg Dining Scene

Trackback Pings

Comments

Post a comment

Latest Restaurant Additions