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November 24, 2008

Bburg: Not Just for [American] Hipsters Anymore

cafe-di-notte.jpg
If you thought the main populations of Williamsburg were Polish-American and hipster, you're wrong. New Western Europeans have invaded the neighborhood — that's right, it's been "Europeanized" — and some businesses cater to the distinctive nationalities now maintaining a presence there. "The French stake out the terrace of Fabian’s Cafe, the Brits convene at the Spike Hill Bar & Grill to watch Manchester United soccer matches, and the Swedish parents meet at one another’s apartments for a coffee-and-buns break called 'fika,'" writes the NY Times. The weak dollar surely helped encourage the demographic shift, but if in some parts of the city Europeans were purchasing second homes, in Williamsburg they're actually settling in for the long haul. "Other neighborhoods that have been reshaped by the condo boom of recent years have also seen influxes of foreign buyers investing their yen, pounds and euros in real estate. But the trend has been most visible in Williamsburg, where the newcomers are establishing deeper roots and are not simply looking for weekend pieds-à-terre or investment properties." Why Bburg? Cheaper, and more like home — easy to find European specialties like HobNobs or find a spot to watch Football... the European kind. "They say they like its cafes, its more muted displays of wealth (well, more muted than Manhattan’s) and an artistic vibe that reminds some of the Marais neighborhood in Paris, or Brighton, England."
Old Europe and New Brooklyn in Williamsburg [NY Times]
Photo by galvarez51.




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Comments

"an artistic vibe..." not.

*rob*

Posted by: PitbullNYC at November 24, 2008 9:13 AM

Behold the power of the Euro. We sold our Ditmas Park area home a little over a month ago. The buyers? Middle aged Europeans looking for a second home/investment. All cash. Who would have thought?

Posted by: Architerrorist at November 24, 2008 10:12 AM

I'm wondering if it's easier to walk away from a bad mortgage if you have residency in another country. Is it?

Posted by: Heather at November 24, 2008 10:50 AM

PitbullNYC - what do your comments mean? i live in williamsburg, and thought the article really reflects everything I've been seeing. we recently meet a new family that we've had several play dates with, and they also moved to williamsburg from England. also, in my condo building, i know musicians, painters, etc.. yes, there are people in the arts in williamsburg although clearly, there are all sorts of people. on the whole, i do think it's the neighborhood of choice for a lot of creative professionals. so, yes, the neighborhood has an "artistic vibe." probably also added to by the zillions of art galleries as well.

Posted by: wine lover at November 24, 2008 11:02 AM

I guess Williamsburg has an artistic vibe, if "artistic" is narrowly defined by danish furniture, Eggio preschool, skinny jeans, and condominium ownership.

Posted by: Heather at November 24, 2008 11:19 AM

This article makes me hate Williamsburg even more than I already did.

Posted by: 11217 at November 24, 2008 11:54 AM

heather - your comment is obnoxious. williamsburg has an artistic vibe. it also has europeans and condos. they are not mutually exclusive.

11217- please don't even read about williamsburg. it's the best neighborhood in NY, if you don't get it, says more about you than the area. you clearly aren't invested in shopping, galleries, restaurants, bars, music venues or anything else that makes williamsburg amazing. it does not have brownstones which is what does seem to matter to you. but who cares more about buildings than life? brownstones are just things. Who moves to NY for that? are you seriously happy to just go sit in your house everyday and be glad that the exterior of your house is brown? god, how dull! and, please do not try to tell me that park slope offers up anything. it's food is mediocre and the clothes shopping is not great and there are no galleries. there's one decent music venue. that's it. also the commute blows.


Where's your passion? Many many people are in NY for the culture and work opportunities. williamsburg is a ridiculously short commute to both while offering up its own very forward and contemporary culture - especially in art and music.

Posted by: wine lover at November 24, 2008 12:09 PM

My husband asked why all the Europeans are moving to Williamsburg. I asked him why he and all of his Dublin buddies had to move to the East Village when they fell off the potato truck in the 80's. Different era, different neighborhood. Europeans like the next hip thang. Nobody told them Williamsburg was the last hip thang. Oh, don't take offense, Wine Lover....chill out and drink some more wine. You're too defensive.

Posted by: rh at November 24, 2008 12:18 PM

"it's the best neighborhood in NY"


Your desperation in talking about your neighborhood makes me nauseous.

I would never claim that Park Slope is the "best neighborhood in NYC." Yes, in my opinion it is the best for ME, but I would never suggest it is simply THE BEST.

It is so obvious you are terrified of your new white box being worth half of what it is now by this time next year. Could you at least TRY to be a little less transparent?!

I love that you think a neighborhood infested with cloned 21 year olds from the Midwest is the be all end all neighborhood in New York City. I think THAT says a lot about you.

The NYTimes piece was a fluff piece paid for by real estate agents to get a couple more Europeans (suckers) to buy a couple more rapidly deflating condos in your hood. It's sad that you don't realize that.

Nothing you say is going to change the fact that your hood is going to resemble Miami's housing market by this time next year. 10,000 new condos coming online with NO buyers!!

Posted by: 11217 at November 24, 2008 12:19 PM

Has anyone noticed that the NY times never puts any negative articles about the current Real Estate market in the real estate section?

Posted by: billyboomer at November 24, 2008 12:41 PM

We've all noticed, Billyboomer. Everyone except wine lover that is!

Posted by: 11217 at November 24, 2008 12:44 PM

Wine Lover, I have been extolling the charm of Williamsburg longer than you have had your real estate license, or, possibly, lived in Brooklyn. However, I've also seen that charm dramatically decrease recently, as much of what made it charming has been replaced with vacant lots and half-built construction projects that, even if they are ever finished, will contain crappy apartments that all look exactly the same. (If the apartments were larger and less crappy, I'd be a lot more understanding.)

I still love my old neighborhood--I always will. But I am not immune to the issues. And there are many.

Seriously, what would happen if the European money pulls out of Brooklyn and goes back to the continent? What happens to a mortgage when you can't sell and you lose your work visa? Rentals? Sublets? What happens when the dollar strengthens and your exchange rate arbitrage becomes less of a bargain?

Posted by: Heather at November 24, 2008 1:31 PM

whatever heather - i've lived in Brooklyn for 12 years. been hanging out in williamsburg for forever. also, i am not even remotely a real estate broker. i work in the photography industry, but have bought and sold 3 times in brooklyn. how long have you lived in Brooklyn? where do you own? and, if you don't own property, then I am certainly more invested in Williamsburg than you. you obviously are not too connected to the area if you are only renting. i am committed to the neighborhood, my neighbors, the local businesses and schools. are you?

fyi - the europeans i know in williamsburg seem like they are in for the long haul. you'd have to ask someone directly for more details.

Posted by: wine lover at November 24, 2008 2:15 PM

11217 - You should really stick to the Park Slope threads since once again you have added nothing to a Williamsburg post except your misinformed notion that everyone in the burg longs to move to Park Slope, and is a 21 year old hipster.

We have previously agreed that in the current economic climate real estate prices will more than likely hold up better in PS than WB, but it ends there. Newsflash: Many people choose to live in Williamsburg. Not because they can't afford PS (take a look around craigslist, rentals in williamsburg are comparable to PS, and it's not cheap to buy either) but because they actually like it. Myself included. For every "friend" you have that lived in Williamsburg and hated it, and retreated for the tree lined blocks of brownstone brooklyn, I have a friend who lived in Fort Greene, Park Slope or Cobble Hill and realized after a year or two, that it was not their cup of tea, and chose to move somewhere that was more in line with their lifestyle - including my French born, UK educated roommate.

That is what's great about this city - there is something for everyone!!!

Posted by: A Guest at November 24, 2008 2:54 PM

Girls, girls, you're *both* pretty!

Posted by: SnarkSlope at November 24, 2008 2:59 PM

"except your misinformed notion that everyone in the burg longs to move to Park Slope, and is a 21 year old hipster."


Actually the opposite of this is true. I hope those in Williamsburg stay where they are! I dislike the neighborhood and I despise almost everyone I've ever met who lives there.

Wine lover pretty much sums up the attitude of those who live in Williamsburg. They think it's the only place on earth and even he just slammed Heather, someone who has always spoke very highly of Williamsburg and he had nothing but trash to talk about her.

A sign of someone who's really into himself. Very much like every person I've met who lives in Williamsburg.

I agree...some people like it...clearly. But I don't have to and I'm allowed to state my opinion.

Btw, 3 people on my block moved to the U.S. from abroad in the past year or so..one couple from the U.K...one from France with a little girl and another couple (2 girls) from Berlin.

Can we get the NYTimes over here STAT!!!

In case you missed it, that was sarcasm. The whole freakin city is made of of people from other places...I find this particular article trashy just like most of the other NYTimes real estate "pieces"


Posted by: 11217 at November 24, 2008 3:02 PM

11217:

Every time I read your posts, whether they involve your idealized vision of Park Slope or your dystopian rants against Williamsburg, I just can't help but think what it must be like for someone to live in this fantastical world of imaginary extremes.

You despise almost everyone you've ever met in Williamsburg? That is just crazy talk. Seriously, how can you NOT have friends there?

I was just at a party with some London friends this past weekend. They are always a blast. They love Williamsburg because it is NOT like Europe. Park Slope, for all its beauty, is very much an odd European museum that is all too familiar to the people of the old continent.

It's fine if you love Park Slope, but sheesh - calm down about Williamsburg already!

Posted by: Polemicist at November 24, 2008 3:23 PM

Williamsburg was cool more than 12 years ago. When it was still a 'gritty' neighborhood with struggling artists, some squatting in buildings with out running water. They'd get together at the local coffee shop and talk about art and how they're going to try to sell their work, so they can have dinner for the next month. I used to hang out there with an artist friend of mine. Now I won't go into the neighborhood because it's become to superficial.

Soho got destroyed a long time ago with the commercialization and now Willimasburg with the invasion of posers. Hip it ain't.

Posted by: bayridgegirl at November 24, 2008 3:31 PM

"A sign of someone who's really into himself. Very much like every person I've met who lives in Williamsburg."

I don't know where to start - should i feel insulted?

Posted by: A Guest at November 24, 2008 3:32 PM

I am constantly overhearing people speaking French in Williamsburg and Bushwick and marveled that tourists would travel so far out in Brooklyn. I have also been wondering for years who buys the condos around the park -- other than parents of NYU students. This article seems to have solved both mysteries. Williamsburg is no longer a quiet village of musicians and creative directors, but it does have wonderful restaurants. I wouldn't want to live there, but I love to visit.

Posted by: mopar at November 24, 2008 3:38 PM

i don't understand why people are so territorial
and full of hatred when it comes to neighborhoods
everyone has there different tastes when it comes to home

i have lived in williamsburg for 14 years and i love it
yes it has changed over the years but thats been a good thing
there is less crime now, and the restaurants are great
the parks, the farmers markets, and proximity to nyc

best of all it feels like a small town
i walk down the street and i know many people
there is a feeling of community here
most of my friends live here within a few blocks
and i have to say they are a very diverse group
and not a hipster among them that everyone rants about

i love other neighborhoods in the city too
people should get off their competitive neighborhood soap boxes
i know we are all proud of where we come from
but why get so negative
why not feel good about being part of a great borough in a great city!!! and enjoy this place!!!!

Posted by: hermitport at November 24, 2008 3:42 PM

This is why Brooklyn is great - there are many different neighborhoods with different flavor, and we can all enjoy what each has to offer. If you can honestly write off a whole neighborhood and say there is nothing for you there to enjoy, then my response to you is you haven't experienced it in it's entirety.

Posted by: A Guest at November 24, 2008 3:52 PM

I do LOVE the Beacon's Closet in Williamsburg and have found many nice items of clothing there.

The people there are awful, however. Nasty and rude.

The few remaining friends I have in Williamsburg (I used to have many more, but they've all since left) are approaching their late 20's and early 30's and would describe Williamsburg just as I have above.

Not one of them wants to be there anymore. I'm currently helping 2 find places elsewhere in Brooklyn since they know I keep up with real estate, etc.

Posted by: 11217 at November 24, 2008 4:02 PM

This craiglist missed connection sums up Williamsburg pretty well...it's actually hilarious.

***

You are the Prototype - m4w - 24 (7th & Bedford)

Me: Skinny jeans with patterned slip-ons. Shaggy brown hair, crusty mustache, over-sized headphones, a black and white plaid cloth scarf and an attitude.

You: Skinny jeans with black boots just past your ankles, brown straight hair with bangs, over-sized 80’s style glasses, bright red lip-stick, american apparel type blouse, over-sized headphones (around your neck).

I saw you loitering on bedford. You had headphones but you weren’t listening to any music. You never smiled, and I thought to myself, “wow, this is a girl like no other.”

Then I looked to my left and saw 20 more of you. Then 70 or so bumped my shoulders on the street cause they weren’t paying attention to where they were going. Then 300 more poured out of the Music Hall. Just when I started to feel sad, I noticed about 2,000 of me standing around and then I thought, we’re both so totally and hopelessly unoriginal and fake we’d be perfect for one another.

Email me, we can pretend to talk about music we know absolutely nothing about then get drunk off of OE cause, you know, it’s fun to be white and pretend like you know shit about the ghetto. I know you’re out there, I’ll be waiting breathlessly by my MacBook Pro and Midi Keyboard for your email. In fact, I think I’ll go compose a wordless, electronic ballad while I wait. peace, chicken

Posted by: 11217 at November 24, 2008 4:14 PM

As I stated above, I have many friends moving from Brownstone Brooklyn to Williamsburg (all within the same age group as your friends) - so I'm not sure what point you are trying to make.

Never been a big fan of Beacon's Closet (all their employees have attitudes, Williamsburg, Park Slope, Wicker Park/Bucktown in Chicago et all)

Big fan of the A.P.C. surplus store all the way over on Grand near the water.

I'm sure I could even recommend a bar you could tolerate and perhaps a restaurant if you gave me some guidelines!

I think your new year's resolution should be to go to williamsburg at least once in 2009 with an open mind - you might enjoy yourself! ;)

Posted by: A Guest at November 24, 2008 4:19 PM

http://www.newyorkshitty.com/?p=11569

That actually pretty much sums up my disillusionment with Williamsburg pretty well. First of all, the "art" is terrible. Secondly, I remember watching them race to tear down the old movie theatre that was there last year. They ripped it apart in like a week to try and beat the downzoning... and now there's an enormous vacant lot. In the middle of one of Williamsburg's "prime" shopping strips. Across from another vacant lot. Right next to Bird, which sells $300 T-shirt dresses, but is ecologically sustainable. Whatever.

I still love the neighborhood. More than any other place in New York it feels like home to me. Not because I've bought and sold and profited from it, but because it was the place I spent my twenties in, and the place I moved back to raise a family. I was bullish on raising a family there too. I promoted PS 17 on the local listserve. I looked into preschool options. I ignored what I knew about superfund sites, lead in the soil, and rates of asthma along the BQE corridor. But what finally hit home for me was that I didn't want to spend half our take-home pay on a crappy condo across the street from another half-built crappy condo on top of an oil slick next to a former cadmium paint factory. Nor did I want to rent the same crappy condo for $3K/month. Increasingly, as I walked down the street, I wondered, "Who the hell are these people?"

I wonder that still. Perhaps the answer really is, "They are clueless European ex-pats who are willing to spend too much to live in the next soho, not having noticed that the first soho is actually not that nice at all."

And, while on the topic, since when are all of these people who work in "the arts" rich? Am I just bitter? Or has there been some kind of sea-change, in which decorators can afford to live in Schaeffer landing and buy $1MM townhouses? And if so, why do they all have the exact same taste? When did being artistic involve becoming such a conformist that you do all your shopping at DWR?

Most of the new businesses in Williamsburg have been propped up by foreign currencies and foreign investment. I know that too. Some of the new business owners are great people. And there's nothing wrong with it... I'm just not convinced those businesses are sustainable in the new economy.

Then again, one of the BEST things about Williamsburg in 1995 was that it was exactly the same as Williamsburg in 1989, pretty much, with a few more cash machines and the L-Cafe. Maybe an economic downturn will stabilize things. Growth has not been kind.

If it collapses, I might move back. But in the mean time, except for the lack of decent coffee, Fort Greene is so much nicer there's no comparison.

Posted by: Heather at November 24, 2008 4:30 PM

I dated someone this past year who lived in Williamsburg and spent 3-4 nights a week there.

I gave it a chance, really I did.

We hit all the bars, we hit all the "great" restaurants (even Dumont with a roach crawling on our table), we hit a couple cool shops.

That's not the problem. I find the area cold, I find the people totally vapid, I find they don't really care about anyone in the neighborhood who's lived there for generations, I felt like all the bars were the same crowd, I felt like there were no trees, I feel that calling McCarren a "park" is laughable, and I found that there are a lot of people willing to pay a million dollars to live in an area that looks a lot like Beirut in the 1980's.

Sure, I like Hotel Delmano as a space for a bar, and have had a really great meal at Fanny's on more than one occassion, but I still dread going to the neighborhood. I just don't like it. I've given in a chance and the people are not my cup of tea (for the most part).

I don't judge things quickly and I always give them a fair shot before making a decision. I'm absolutely not saying that no one likes Williamsburg...clearly that's not the case. But just like you know many people who have moved from Brownstone Brooklyn to Williamsburg, I know many people who have done the exact opposite.

We have differing opinions here and that's fine.

I've spent years reading this website with people trashing Park Slope for a number of different reasons. Doesn't really matter to me, because I enjoy living here. I don't claim it's perfect like wine lover, I don't claim it's as hip as Williamsburg, I don't claim anything. You either like it or you don't. It's like chemistry with a mate...you either have it or you don't.

Although I have to say that I love Brooklyn...all of it really...and I'll lump Williamsburg in there if I must cause my love of the BK is that strong. I appreciate that it exists, I just don't want any part of it.


Posted by: 11217 at November 24, 2008 4:34 PM

Here's the take on this article from Curbed.com:

Europeans Messing with Burg Vibe, Hipsters not liking it.

An apology if it took us a few extra minutes to get this weekend's Times story about the heavy presences of Europeans in Williamsburg, but we were too busy (pissing ourselves because we were laughing so hard) carefully considering how to deal with it that we had to wait a bit. The Times wrote that:

There is a distinctly West European flavor to the social calendar in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, these days, as affluent buyers from France, Germany, Italy and Britain are transforming a neighborhood better known for attracting hipsters, Midwesterners and Polish immigrants. Other neighborhoods that have been reshaped by the condo boom of recent years have also seen influxes of foreign buyers investing their yen, pounds and euros in real estate. But the trend has been most visible in Williamsburg, where the newcomers are establishing deeper roots and are not simply looking for weekend pieds-à-terre or investment properties.

So, you know, the French hang out at Fabian's on Bedford, the Brits go to Spike Hill Bar & Grill, Urban Rustic sells baguettes to French people near McCarren Park (not the side of the park where alcoholics drink Vladlimir Vodka out of brown paper bags, pass out on the benches and puke on themselves in a more Old European way), the Swedes learn to sell furniture in different languages and at one cafe the little ones are bilingual if not trilingual. One resident gushes, "You can't step outside without hearing French around you."

For real laughs and chuckles, however, head directly to the local blog Bad Advice, which did not take well to the "discovery" of Europeans in the Burg. Bad Advice writes:

Apparently there are a lot of Europeans in Williamsburg these days. Wow. This is news? I guess the newsiness lies in that these are rich, annoying Europeans. Not the artist types that got priced out of the nabe few years back. Instead of Swiss cartoonists and Lithuanian sculptors, we have British i-bankers and Swedish marketing professionals. And not only are they buying apartments with their bushels of Euros, they're opening businesses...

And continues about a comment made by a Swedish shop owner that Europeans are "more serious shoppers":

More serious than who? More serious than moi? (That's French for "me," btw.) It's true. I do tend to adopt a lighthearted, whimsical attitude when snapping up Marimekko washclothes and panda bear pillows. I see now that attitude is wrongheaded and I will never again walk through those doors without an appropriate pout on my face.

Is this why the dude in the bodega spoke French to us when we went in for a PRB the other day and asked us why we weren't buy, you know, the Duvel?

Posted by: 11217 at November 24, 2008 5:12 PM

I think I used to see Bad Advice on the street walking her dog. (If she has a dog? Maybe it wasn't her.) Anyways, we always smiled at each other and it felt like, for a moment, there was someone in the neighborhood who might understand.

No offense meant to the owners of Atlas or Mamalu's, because you guys, I love.... but, uh, yeah.

Posted by: Heather at November 24, 2008 5:18 PM

"I find the people totally vapid" - Wrong. It's a very diverse neighborhood. This statement is the equivalent of me saying everyone in Park Slope is a self entitled breeder.

"I find they don't really care about anyone in the neighborhood who's lived there for generations" - Not true. I have lived all over Manhattan and Brooklyn and by far Williamsburg has the greatest sense of community of all the neighborhoods I've lived in. The local italian butcher, pizza guy, bodega workers etc all know many of the names of newcomers and oldtimers alike. It's rare I leave my apartment that I don't run into one of my neighbors who have lived in the hood all their lives and strike up a conversation for a good 5 minutes. I have asked them how they feel about how the neighborhood has changed, and they think it is for the better. It is cleaner and safer than it used to be, and most homeowners have profited in someway from it.

"We hit all the bars, we hit all the "great" restaurants (even Dumont with a roach crawling on our table) - I saw a roach on my most recent visit to Jean Georges. Once again not sure what your point is. Dumont is crappy anyway - Restaurant row is on Broadway. Dressler, Diner, Marlow and Sons etc.

"I feel that calling McCarren a "park" is laughable" - It is no prospect park, but it is an open greenspace that is enjoyed by many of the residents and outsiders. It is packed in the summers with the southside hispanics BBQing and playing soccer, people from all over enjoying the free shows at the pool and the fantastic track.

"I found that there are a lot of people willing to pay a million dollars to live in an area that looks a lot like Beirut in the 1980's." - Not really - it's more like a post industrial neighborhood that was recently rezoned and being developed.

"We have differing opinions here and that's fine.
Although I have to say that I love Brooklyn...all of it really...and I'll lump Williamsburg in there if I must cause my love of the BK is that strong. I appreciate that it exists, I just don't want any part of it." That's great, and is the way it should be. You should save this post and just copy and paste it into every subsequent Williamsburg post just to cover all your bases.

Posted by: A Guest at November 24, 2008 5:20 PM

TRUCE!

Posted by: 11217 at November 24, 2008 5:27 PM

hahah deal. Thanks for making the last few hours of work fly 11217! Goodnight!

Posted by: A Guest at November 24, 2008 5:28 PM

Thank you also, A guest.

I appreciate a good discussion.

Here's to roaches in all of NYC'S finest dining establishments!

Posted by: 11217 at November 24, 2008 5:57 PM

Well, OK, there used to be almost exclusively musicians and creative directors living in Williamsburg -- I know, I interviewed about 40 people on the street for a project there once -- and now there are more first-year lawyers and other office professionals and actors. It feels more ordinary and commercial and trendy, kind of like the East Village circa 2001. I miss the quiet village days (not that there's anything special about musicians and creative directors) -- the perfect overlap of subcultural and geographical community was perhaps unique. But everything changes. I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did.

Posted by: mopar at November 25, 2008 12:27 AM

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