« Public Forum on DOB Reform Tonight A Look Inside the Carlton Mews Church »
December 4, 2006
Sunset Park: On The Rise

When the Gowanus Expressway opened in 1951, it cut the once-thriving neighborhood of Norwegians, Finnish, Danish, German and Irish immigrants in half and led to a mass exodus of the European population. Hispanic immigrants filled the void in subsequent decades followed by a large influx of Asians. The result? Some of the most authentic ethnic food stores and restaurants in the borough. Both the residential and commercial real estate markets have been on the rise (the industrial zone has a vacancy rate of just 1% and townhouses now fetch over $800,000). Despite the neighborhood's resurgence, it's hard to get people to agree about its exact boundaries. Ron Schweiger, the Brooklyn borough historian, estimated that they are from 35th Street in the north to 65th Street in the south, Fort Hamilton Parkway to the east and the waterfront to the west. That sound about right to people? What do say, Sunset Parker? Are there any stand-out local real estate brokers that deserve mention?
Sunset Park: Brighter Days Ahead [AM NY]
Photo by ilonaphotos
Trackback Pings
TrackBack URL for this entry:
http://www.brownstoner.com/mte/mt-tb.cgi/85
Comments
Although Sunset Park has its issues, I think it is inevitable that it changes for the good. Its location between Park Slope and Bay Ridge make it a great option for Brooklyn living with a reasonable commute to Manhattan. Brownstones on the nice blocks are selling for $900K plus - it's not just an example of one crazy sale out there. I think a lot more people are seeing the value of the neighborhood. There seems to be more and more of an influx of former Park Slope residents looking for a home worth less than $1 million.
Posted by: Anonymous at December 4, 2006 1:15 PM
nice article, lots of detail on stores, restaurants, things to do, etc.
I think the Gowanus Expressway has really divided the neighborhood into a couple of different sections.
It's difficult to lump the area by the waterfront and under the highway into the same as that with treelined brownstone blocks near the park.
It's the same way that 2nd ave and union st is a different world from 8th ave and union but even more so because in Sunset Park there is an elevated highway in between.
All too often I hear people talking about prostitution, drugs, etc. when describing Sunset Park when in reality that is a world that is never seen nor visited by the majority of the residents of the area.
In fact, the same thing goes on in Park Slope (Gowanus) on 2nd ave but no one seems to mind because they are well aware of the other, more beautiful parts of that hood. People are now beginning to see the beautiful parts of Sunset Park today.
Posted by: Anonymous at December 4, 2006 1:58 PM
To your question about Real Estate companies. The East Side of Sunset Park (from 6th to 9th Aves) are controlled by mostly Chinese companies with Chinese native speaking agents and signs in Chinese (and sometimes English, but not always) in the windows. If you're renting, you can deal with buildings' management companies (of all nationalities), but buying over there, often means going through a Chinese real estate agency. I rented for a few years on 7th Ave and 56th and looked at several places... the agent was a sweet, but agressively Christian native-born Chinese woman. She didn't speak much English and was clearly dismayed that the woman I would be living with wasn't my wife.
There are some Orthodox Jewish managed buildings along ninth and even between eighth and ninth. If you're the type who's willing to touch a woman while she's menstruating, don't even bother applying to any of those.
The main thing to realize is that a lot of Sunset Park's real estate is not handled in the "modern" ways. I guarantee that three out of four people selling homes in Sunset Park have never heard of brownstoner and couldn't tell you that blog is short for weblog. Instead of Craigslist or newer boutique companies, you see a lot of houses being sold by Century 21. A lot. Now Corcoran is in there with nice stock, but a little overpriced.
One other thing, you guys mention that townhouses start at 800,000 in Sunset Park. That's true for brownstones and limestones, but wood frame two families (brick on the first floor, wood on the top two, covered by vinyl siding) start in the low $600's. They're just as old (dating back to the 1890's)as the brownstones/limestones and there is nice detailing and woodwork inside, but a slightly less grand than a brownstone (there's still all kinds of wainscotting, arches, frenchdoors, mantels, brick fireplaces etc). They're generally a few feet less deep than the brownstones/limestones, but the tradeoff is the backyard is a little bigger. They're generally the same configuration: owner duplex over a cellar with a backyard and a two bedroom railroad rental unit on the third. Some two bedrooms have been converted to three bedrooms.
The biggest secret about Sunset Park is that its just as fast to Manhattan as it is from Park Slope. From 36th Street to Broadway Lafayette is three stops and eighteen minutes. About a half hour to Rockefeller Center. No one seems to realize that. That's a huge deal. The D goes from 36th to Pacific to Grand. Two stops to Manhattan.
As to the boundaries, that seems to have become a bit of a dead horse, but I'll comment on my perspective one last time (since I was asked):
I moved to Sunset Park from Prospect Heights at the age of nine and have been living there on and off since 1981. It was always understood and accepted (by me, my family, many of whom have lived there since the early 1960's, and my neighbors)that the borders were the Prospect Expressway to the north and the BQE's eastern curve over to the south. Sometime within the last decade, as the Slope continued its southward march, brokers and developers started referring to the northern part of Sunset Park as Greenwood Heights. I (and my family and neighbors) always felt that this was a fairly cynical (and transparent) way to play upon the nascent racism and fears of incoming white homeowners and renters, to assure them that they wouldn't be buying a home in a neighborhood teaming with brown immigrant masses.
Its worth noting that they didn't, by any means invent the name. Greenwood Heights as the name of a place predates the Battle of Brooklyn (1776). It was a high point in the woods that covered the area. Presently, its, as one would imagine, a large patch of high ground in the cemetery. The only people who really live in Greenwood Heights are all dead. That said, there's no doubt that the character from Prospect Ave to 36th street is different than the southern stretch from 36th to the high sixties. So is it a separate neighborhood?
Maybe it is.
When the Irish, Poles, Scandanavians etc migrated out of the southern section of Sunset Park after WWII, to be replaced by Latins (mostly Puerto Ricans at the time, later Dominicans, later Mexicans and South/Central Americans), the white europeans stayed in the Northern section. I (and everyone around me) grew up as a resident of Sunset Park with the understanding that Park Slope's North-south boundaries were Flatbush to the Prospect Expressway (the south slope, north slope differentiation, beginning at 9th street always existed, but both were considered part of the same neighborhood); Sunset Park's were the Prospect expressway to where the BQE curves inward and Bay Ridge from there to Fort Hamilton. It was always highway to highway. I would also point out that the first poster describes Sunset Park as being between Park Slope and Bay Ridge, which implies the boundaries are the ones I listed...
Anyway, my personal issue has never been the name Greenwood Heights, its the motives and way it came about (and yes, the fact that the people who predominantly use it are newcomers to Brooklyn or the neighborhood; so the people resizing and rezoning my neighborhood since childhood, aren't even from the neighborhood- can't you see how irksome that presumption can be perceived as?).
Whatever...just added all that because you asked me about the borders. In person, the few people I've met who refer to Northern Sunset Park as Greenwood Heights are cool and into uncovering and preserving the neighborhood's past, as well as caretaking the future: taking on developers and saving the view (for now) of the Minerva Statue on Battle Hill, facing the Statue of Liberty. However they also admit that none of their old school neighbors refer to it as Greenwood Heights...or Sunset Park, for that matter, so go figure. A friend I went to high school with (a native Brooklynite) bought a house a few years ago on 17th street. His backyard faces the highway and he's just on the south side of the "border." He freely admits that he would never say he lived in Sunset Park because his house would be worth less money. This is what I'm talking about.
Posted by: Sunset Parker at December 4, 2006 2:46 PM
I've lived in Sunset Park for the last 8 years. This area has changed. Many brownstones still have all their original detail. Most of them are from around 1910. A few weeks ago a 3 and a half story Brownstone at 47th & and 6th ave sold for 980k! This is a new record for a building of that size out here. Many nice building can still be had for much less. I feel that these brownstone houses are much nicer than the frame houses in South Slope. ( Just a few blocks away ).
Posted by: Rick at December 4, 2006 2:57 PM
I'm a Park Sloper with a young son who's grown fascinated, recently, with the combination of (i) the better housing prices in Sunset Park and (ii) the stellar test scores of PS 172. Does anybody have any experience with the latter?
Posted by: Jim at December 4, 2006 4:32 PM
Rick, who posted above, is my neighbor. He is right about the brownstones and limestone in SP. They are much nicer than the frame houses in the south slope. In fact, 47th, between 5th and 6th (our street) and 48th street are, in my opinion, the nicest in the neighborhood. You will also find great housing stock on 42nd, 43rd, 45th and the blocks in the mid 50s, all between 4th and 5th Avenues.
Sunset Parker, above, is right about the commute too. I agree that it is one of SP's best secrets. My commute to Manhattan from SP is much shorter than my trip on the F train from PS (for 5 years).
Posted by: Brian at December 4, 2006 4:54 PM
For anyone interested in some historical perspective: I had cousins in SP on 42nd st. b/n 3th and 4th av. Same block as that fabulous Catholic church St. Michael's,where BTW "Heaven Help Us" (1985)was filmed. I spent a couple weeks there each summer from the late '50's-early 60's there until they moved away. The area was heavily Irish and changing to Puerto Rican during this time. My cousins lived in a frame row house of the style described by Sunset Parker above-2 floors for the family and an apartment on the 3rd floor-hallway shared by all-although they used the 2 family as one.
We used the pool at Sunset Park every day during the summer-totally safe and no sense of danger. My cousins' house was not as nice as their friends whose houses-limestones-faced the park, which impresed me with their grandeur. I t was a different world.
I'm convinced the renovation of the elevated Gowanus Exp. helped run the neighborhood down in the early '60's. The noise of the piledrivers which I can remember to this day, half a block away from my cousins, was deafening and I'm convinced drove many of the more stable families out.
Posted by: Anonymous at December 4, 2006 9:40 PM
along third avenue there was an elevated trolley line. robert moses incormporated part of the structure into the gowanus expressway. there went the neighborhood...
Posted by: pfa at December 5, 2006 1:51 AM
Hah to say that a frame house in sunset park is slightly less grand than a brownstone is the understatement of the year.
Posted by: Anonymous at December 5, 2006 8:51 AM
No, in fact, this is the understatement of the year: "People who rate domeciles on how "grand" they are not welcome Brooklyn."
Posted by: Sunset Parker at December 5, 2006 1:45 PM
True what was I thinking. Discussing architectural aesthetics on a blog devoted to brownstone architecture. What was I thinking?
Posted by: Anonymous at December 5, 2006 6:57 PM
My Grandfather & then my Father Owned the Brunbeck Photo Art Studio at 4710 5th Avenue from 1903 to the 1970s.The Studio was one flight up & took up that whole floor. We lived upstairs in the front apartment. I loved growing up in that neighborhood. My Grandparents came from Norway as did many then. I went to PS 94 & then Dewey Jr, H.S. We frequently went to Sunset Park & it was a treat to shop along 5th Avenue.
Posted by: Evelyn at April 16, 2007 1:36 AM
Hello Evelyn Nice to hear of your childhood in the Brunbeck Studio. Your grandfather was the american cousin to my grandfather - born in Denmark 1875.
Søren Brunbech, Librarian Denmark sb@vejlebib.dk
Posted by: guest at October 15, 2007 4:26 PM

Post a comment
Please be patient while your comment is published. It may take a moment.