The New York Observer yesterday ran one of those stories that get lots of attention for their broad and sweeping condemnations of something or other, in this case Brooklyn’s restaurant scene. A critic named Josh Ozersky claims that, out of context, Brooklyn restaurants would be recognized as the mediocre, sloppy joints serving off-cuts they actually are. He notes: “The borough, once universally understood as a backwater, set an all-time high for Zagat reviews, with 250 (up from 217). Adam Platt of New York, on the heels of some very good reviews, announced a ‘culinary power shift east’ thanks to Brooklyn Fare and a small number of ambitious efforts.” It seems to us Ozersky’s viewpoint reflects that of a restaurant critic above all, in which money is no object and getting in is less of an issue. But for ordinary people eating at everyday prices in restaurants that don’t take reservations, Brooklyn still offers a much better value for the money, in our opinion. (Also, his information seems dated. Dumont faded years ago.) What do you think? Above, Blanca’s tarragon prawn.
The Truth About Brooklyn’s Overhyped, Undercooked Restaurant Scene [NYO]
Photo by jmoranmoya